I'll do something, hopefully nice looking. Need to grab swivels tomorrow. Does anyone have photos of the swivels they use and prefer? I know ball bearing swivels, but any specific little things that make one design better? Idk.Well you could even continue the classy look and go with some fancy hook or something. Make it look nice
I don't have a photo handy, but you should get the kind of ball bearing swivels that spin on both ends. A lot of them are stationary on one side, so you kinda need to look at em carefully to make sure both sides can spin independently. I usually have 3 strung together, i screw one side to a small piece of wood and hold it to my table with a clamp. When i get to work tomorrow i can snap a photo of the setup if you wantI'll do something, hopefully nice looking. Need to grab swivels tomorrow. Does anyone have photos of the swivels they use and prefer? I know ball bearing swivels, but any specific little things that make one design better? Idk.
Not looking forward to changing my game up so drastically, there will definitely be a break in period with the new technique for me that means FC's that are less than perfect again. Ah well, all better to move up to better builds like aliens, which seem to be much harder when you can't keep the core wires flattened.
Matt
Some dual-core alien buddies in the dotmod petri. This has been my fav series build lately, their performance is simply heavenly. 2x28//38g kanthal//nichrome80
I also got a new camera, so expect some photo spam in the coming days/weeks haha
Thank you very much... Any way you'd share a photo of the PVC pipe contraption? I have a couple inches on either side of the desk here... Might be something I can do.Here's what I like to use. Triple redundant. Also, I have a hook going directly into some PVC shelving right next to my build desk.
View attachment 40808
The resistance is in the .4Ω neighborhood. The last two times i built this they were both .43Ω. I'm using it on a series mech mod (the Noisy Cricket), which means the batteries are essentially stacked, which doubles the voltage. So this .4 build vapes at about 140 watts-give or take lol. Its about the same as a .11Ω build on a single or parallel 18650 mech mod. Definitely unsafe on a single battery.Beautiful. What's the resistance? I'm still on the mech train. And what is a series build?
-every animal has an adequate amount of gray matter in its cranium to tan and preserve its own hide-
... Nothing unsafe about putting it on a single battery, it just wouldn't be any good. Single battery on a .4Ω coil would be 10.5a and 44w at best (assuming no battery sag/voltage loss). But yeah, beautiful build and sounds like it'd just sing with that mod. Just had to point out that little mistake, if you tried to crank a single battery to 140w on that, then yes a single battery would freak out, but that's not really possible.The resistance is in the .4Ω neighborhood. The last two times i built this they were both .43Ω. I'm using it on a series mech mod (the Noisy Cricket), which means the batteries are essentially stacked, which doubles the voltage. So this .4 build vapes at about 140 watts-give or take lol. Its about the same as a .11Ω build on a single or parallel 18650 mech mod. Definitely unsafe on a single battery.
The resistance is in the .4Ω neighborhood. The last two times i built this they were both .43Ω. I'm using it on a series mech mod (the Noisy Cricket), which means the batteries are essentially stacked, which doubles the voltage. So this .4 build vapes at about 140 watts-give or take lol. Its about the same as a .11Ω build on a single or parallel 18650 mech mod. Definitely unsafe on a single battery.
It's quite funny to me -- we build these intricate builds like aliens and such with many core wires which essentially drops resistance down quite quick. Then we get the noisy cricket and go "oh... .25-5 ohms?"I've built coils for my stingray-x that sing at higher resistance so I'm not all that worried...especially with those higher gauge wires. They may have a higher resistance but they heat up quite a bit faster as well. My next vape investment was going to that noisy bastard...but then I found the lucifer mod. It's interchangeable between series or parallel which peaked my interest. It doesn't look as solid as the cricket but it seemed interesting. I figured a series mod would offer me yet another learning curve(I seem to be attracted to the more difficult additions to my collection), building higher resistance coils that will still suit my taste.
-every animal has an adequate amount of gray matter in its cranium to tan and preserve its own hide-
I was just referring to putting a .11 build on a single battery, which is roughly 36 amps, to achieve the same wattage as the .4 build on the series mod... Nothing unsafe about putting it on a single battery, it just wouldn't be any good. Single battery on a .4Ω coil would be 10.5a and 44w at best (assuming no battery sag/voltage loss). But yeah, beautiful build and sounds like it'd just sing with that mod. Just had to point out that little mistake, if you tried to crank a single battery to 140w on that, then yes a single battery would freak out, but that's not really possible.
Yeah, that's a bad idea , I figured either I misunderstood or you just misspoke, either way cleared up.I was just referring to putting a .11 build on a single battery, which is roughly 36 amps, to achieve the same wattage as the .4 build on the series mod
I started out building higher resistance coils for my ITaste MVP mod...11w & 5v max...I don't even know what the cutoff on that mofo was but for a mod made for simple tanks I found a few sweet spots that had me blowing some clouds. Strictly 28kA1 to 32kA1. It wouldn't fire under .08. From that to the mech was a huge learning curve. From this to a series is going to be fun.It's quite funny to me -- we build these intricate builds like aliens and such with many core wires which essentially drops resistance down quite quick. Then we get the noisy cricket and go "oh... .25-5 ohms?"
It's a different mentality when you sit down to build for series. You have to decide single coil or double. What your ID would need to be -- if that ID will fit in your atomizer... You get the point. But it isn't any different in the large scope of things.
26 g N80 will yield you a great low resistance clapton setup for parallel boxes, and regulated devices. But 26 Kanthal brings your resistance up perfect for a series...
Same build. Same gauge wire. Just different core wire materials.
It's all the same, really. If you don't have a series mod I'd snag one up! And the noisy cricket is amazing, at least I can't find much wrong with it for $35-40!!!
Matt
i wish i could get my aliens to look like that. hell, id be happy just to get enough alien wire to come out to make even one of those. i still really suck at aliens.Some dual-core alien buddies in the dotmod petri. This has been my fav series build lately, their performance is simply heavenly. 2x28//38g kanthal//nichrome80
I also got a new camera, so expect some photo spam in the coming days/weeks haha
Specs once you get her installed?
Sometimes when I get perfect fused claptons I feel bad about using them. Until that first flavorful hitOk some of these are getting crazy, I'd feel bad gunking them up with juice and actually using them! Anyways, beautiful coil.
4x26N twisted/hammered, paralleled with 2x26N. I don't plan on vaping it, so I don't know what the resistance is. I just felt like foolin' around a bit. I'm sure with all the channels it'd give some pretty decent flavor. Probably not the best coil for max VG juice, though.Specs once you get her installed?
Well.... Barrel swivels are not the prefered type(they tend to bind quite often) you really want to get ball bearing swivels. They look like thisJust picked up a couple different swivels.
These looked like they'd be up to the task too -- maybe.
Matt
I picked some of those up as well. Just wanted to snag up a couple different options so I DONT need to go back to the store tomorrow.Well.... Barrel swivels are not the prefered type(they tend to bind quite often) you really want to get ball bearing swivels. They look like thisand i would recommend #3 or larger if you can find them
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Basically, if you can go full speed with the drill and the rearward swivle doesnt move at all youre good. The first one should be the only one spinning, any others are your backup in case it does bind upI picked some of those up as well. Just wanted to snag up a couple different options so I DONT need to go back to the store tomorrow.
Just hooked up these.. Testing them out as soon as I get some dinner in me.
Then I'll hook up the ball bearing swivels later if these ones don't work as well as I expect.
Matt
The first swivel and the hook that connects the two are spinning, I'm going to add a third and see how it does, other than that I'll be contemplating moving to ball bearings. But these seem to do absolutely fine, there's no hiccups the wires don't move.Basically, if you can go full speed with the drill and the rearward swivle doesnt move at all youre good. The first one should be the only one spinning, any others are your backup in case it does bind up
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The best I can say is practice as much as you have time to.The first swivel and the hook that connects the two are spinning, I'm going to add a third and see how it does, other than that I'll be contemplating moving to ball bearings. But these seem to do absolutely fine, there's no hiccups the wires don't move.
Still working on aliens, now that I have swivels.
Can anyone give me tips keeping the wires absolutely parallel? They still tend to group into a triangle a bit. It isn't as much as "free handing" but it is enough to tick me off. Should I still paperclip them?? I've watched M.Terk's video like twice today.
Matt
Of course, it is all in the details. Now I'm just practicing. Got it to stay perfectly flat. Only got about 2 inches of alien wrap tho, but it's night and day between swivels vs. No swivels.The best I can say is practice as much as you have time to.
Looks great man. Now that I can inspect closer, all you need is to use 2 pair of pliers (no teeth) to counter twist till straight. Does that make sense?Of course, it is all in the details. Now I'm just practicing. Got it to stay perfectly flat. Only got about 2 inches of alien wrap tho, but it's night and day between swivels vs. No swivels.
Matt
Don't you just love it when that "A-HA!" moment finally comes around?Heyyyy I figured it out.
The first swivel and the hook that connects the two are spinning, I'm going to add a third and see how it does, other than that I'll be contemplating moving to ball bearings. But these seem to do absolutely fine, there's no hiccups the wires don't move.
Still working on aliens, now that I have swivels.
Can anyone give me tips keeping the wires absolutely parallel? They still tend to group into a triangle a bit. It isn't as much as "free handing" but it is enough to tick me off. Should I still paperclip them?? I've watched M.Terk's video like twice today.
Matt
Yeah! It takes attention to detail when wrapping your cores around the swivels, and also when they get put into the Chuck of the drill.
Also figured out I had my alien wire not stretched enough.
Matt
From what I've read make sure you super scrub that bitch clean lolGot my Griffin in the mail today! Hopefully I'll put some aliens in it today!
Matt
Always! ThxFrom what I've read make sure you super scrub that bitch clean lol
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Worst one I ever got was a madhatter rda clone from some shit company I can't remember and it had machine oil pooled in the juice well and in the airflow slots! Took 5 different runs threw the uc (hornady) after using isopropyl 91% on the damn thing!Always! Thx
Matt
How funny. My authentic mad hatter mini had the SAME issue. It wasn't quite as saturated, but dang, it was not so clean..Worst one I ever got was a madhatter rda clone from some shit company I can't remember and it had machine oil pooled in the juice well and in the airflow slots! Took 5 different runs threw the uc (hornady) after using isopropyl 91% on the damn thing!
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I think the "cheap" companys have something to prove so they clean their shit rather well.How funny. My authentic mad hatter mini had the SAME issue. It wasn't quite as saturated, but dang, it was not so clean..
My tobeco velocity was pretty much spotless. Funny how that works.
Matt
There's just no reason to buy Black&decker anymore, it's been crap for a decade. Especially when you can get entry level Makita or Dewalt tools for basically the same cost, it's a no brainier. Heck, I'll take a Ryobi over a B&D these days.i have come to the conclusion that the 6amp black and decker corded drill is the worst drill to use. there is almost no speed control, the balance is far off that you cant keep it straight and the trigger depresses in stages so if you squeeze just a fraction of a pound more or less the speed jumps from about 50 rpms to 5000 rpms, ruining any aliens you try to make. its pissing me off.
Very nice!Got them aliens DOWN!!!! YEA BOY!
3 - 26G cores × 34G Nichrome wrap!
They're in my new Griffin RTA. Had originally wrapped 7 wraps on a 2.3mm bit. Dropped one, then two to get it to fit in the RTA. .14 resistance.
Matt