You get more run time out of them than I ever did with mine so yeah. I'd go with what I know works well.
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I think I have a link up
There's also the_swvl on IG. I love mine and they don't wear out.
Still doesn't work. I'd get the ones Chef posted.
The ones in that pic show the locking link things you don't want. When they spin they wobble because they aren't centered. I know first hand.
Even though I don't use fishing swivels I'd like to have the links Chefs swivels have.
The ones in that pic show the locking link things you don't want. When they spin they wobble because they aren't centered. I know first hand.
Even though I don't use fishing swivels I'd like to have the links Chefs swivels have.
Larger doesn't mean better. Quality is what you're after. Chef gets over a month out of his and that's a long time for a swivel. Especially if you pull.
I'd fear that the bigger ones would cause more twist because they're more resistant. Could be wrong.
If you want something with minimal resistance and longevity just get a swvl if you can stay perfectly square with it.
I can clapton a piece of 32g with mine. My swivels would break it but they weren't as good as chef's.
Raymo recommended the swvl to me. He uses a spin lt but it's the same thing really just more expensive.
Edit: Keep in mind Chef builds for for a site. I'd imagine a month for his swivels is 2 or 3 for me.
I'd go with what's proven to work.
I'd fear that the bigger ones would cause more twist because they're more resistant. Could be wrong.
If you want something with minimal resistance and longevity just get a swvl if you can stay perfectly square with it.
I can clapton a piece of 32g with mine. My swivels would break it but they weren't as good as chef's.
Raymo recommended the swvl to me. He uses a spin lt but it's the same thing really just more expensive.
Edit: Keep in mind Chef builds for for a site. I'd imagine a month for his swivels is 2 or 3 for me.
I'd go with what's proven to work.
Ok I finally got a 6 ply 0.4mm stagg with 28g frames. 38g fuse.
Now I know I can make them!
My current drill and the swvl were the 2 best things I've bought for building. I don't have a handvice so that may change.
Drill specs please
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I got it at the pawn shop for $40.
It's a Black and Decker HPD1800.
The batteries are bigger than the ion batteries you can get on drills now but I lay my drills on their side.
My only requisites were a good chuck that closes all the way, high and low and enough sensitivity to have a few speed options for ssfc. You can get these out of several drills but this one was the one I picked out of 10. Plus it has 3 batteries.
If you're looking for a new drill black and decker has several options at a good price point. Nothing I'd take to work but good for building.
It's a Black and Decker HPD1800.
The batteries are bigger than the ion batteries you can get on drills now but I lay my drills on their side.
My only requisites were a good chuck that closes all the way, high and low and enough sensitivity to have a few speed options for ssfc. You can get these out of several drills but this one was the one I picked out of 10. Plus it has 3 batteries.
If you're looking for a new drill black and decker has several options at a good price point. Nothing I'd take to work but good for building.
Have you guys ever replaced your chucks with these "precision chucks" you can find on Amazon
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I didnt see a reason to get a 3-6 jaw precision chuck because it needs more work to just add wire to it...I just used the paperclip trick and a hand vise when needed....nothing more is really needed.
The_Swvl is sending me a custom unit to test, I wanted to thank anyone and everyone that mentioned that I referred them....he's never sponsored or gifted one to people and he said that a massive amount of his customers were referred to him by me and he wanted to return the favor....so I guess Ill be testing the Swvl against the SpinLT.
I also got 50ft of "LED Underglow" lighting for cars, in super white. I will be using it as my bench lighting, Im doing to lengths of it across the ceiling of my build shelf...should be able to see what Im doing and hopefully I can start using some magnification after...its way to dark right now to use any..
Hoping to play with some new gauges of wire I picked up also, 25g, 27g, 29g, 35g 37g, 39g all in SS...I think its going to be great for making some odd staggs and Alien Staggertons!
CrazyChef
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I'm so used to even gauges that I keep forgetting about the odd gauges I have. Maybe I'll have a little fun with them today. 21, 23, 25, 27, 29 - all Kanthal. I'll have to look into getting some higher gauge N80 in odd gauges, and also the SS you mentioned.
I told him.
Good idea for a bench light. They also make light bars for that but they aren't cheap.
I opted for the underglow LEDs because I can cut them to length and install my own connectors....so Ive got more then plenty to make my bench lit up like a surgeons room and then can add lighting to anything else I need...was less then $40 altogether and the tube lights I was looking for I would be able to get 2 36" tubes and the mounts and just that would be over the $40...
You mean the stuff that comes on a roll?
If so that stuff is legit. I used it for PCs. You can get RGB ones with a remote.
If so that stuff is legit. I used it for PCs. You can get RGB ones with a remote.
Yea its that strip lighting (12V) but the roll I got came with everything but the power supply...I just found a 5a 12V supply with multiple hook ups that I will be using....that way I can dial in what I want on above me so its not too bright and only where I need ir or enough to flood the shelf with light...
I just ordered a pair of mag glasses also...
Next should be the wooden bench, 2 types of vises, cork board/dowels for spools and a comfy executive chair....and maybe a Bluetooth stereo
then my office will be much better
Here's my first pair of staggs. They're only 6 ply 0.4mm with 28g frames.
8 ply gives a flatter look in the middle but I'm tired of throwing away ribbon on something that doesn't work. I used a little too much tension when I made the clapton on the stack.
It's really hard to fuse something small next to something bigger.
8 ply gives a flatter look in the middle but I'm tired of throwing away ribbon on something that doesn't work. I used a little too much tension when I made the clapton on the stack.
It's really hard to fuse something small next to something bigger.
Ive been playing with Staggs here and there alot lately....Im really just trying different Fusing Gauges and Patterns.
Here's the one from tonight..
SPECS: 11 x .4R/27TMN80/44TMN80
All Staggering and Fusing is 44g, the next few I try will be 46g/46g and maybe ill try a 46g/48g stagg....but I may just make them without the Ribbon between the Frames just to see how well it coils. The reason Im playing with such high fusing/staggering for these, I want to make a pair of staggertons that look side/flat and look like they have a chrome center line down the center of the wraps...
Here's the one from tonight..
SPECS: 11 x .4R/27TMN80/44TMN80
All Staggering and Fusing is 44g, the next few I try will be 46g/46g and maybe ill try a 46g/48g stagg....but I may just make them without the Ribbon between the Frames just to see how well it coils. The reason Im playing with such high fusing/staggering for these, I want to make a pair of staggertons that look side/flat and look like they have a chrome center line down the center of the wraps...
Nice build station! I'm really diggin the black/white Makita! Most of them are green and blue so that's pretty sweet.
playing with ribbon frames. .5core and .5 frame sucks
I'm still working on messing with ribbon wire so staples coils are my next hurdle. Here i used (10) 38GA wires lightly twisted for the core and then framed them out with some 26GA and then stagger fused it with 34GA. Ohms out to 0.09 running on a dual parallel 26650 mech box. I've already picked up a few tips here and for that I'm thankful. I'm hoping I can get my skills up to the level of most of you guys! Stunning builds guys
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Looks pretty good! If you can do 34g/34g for stagger and fuse you could do 36g/38g no problem and you will get better performance out of it as well...with thinner skin over your cores the faster it will ram up and hotter it will be...play with your outerwrap/stagger gauges to dial in the perfect amount of heat and ramp up time!
Thanks! The station has been a process. I just started using the drill today, was my Christmas present!
That's a good idea using different stagger wraps, I think I'll try that next! I love the flavor that I'm getting off of the staggers and they amazingly stay cleaner longer. Those and the aliens seem like the energizer bunny and keep going and going... For a long time I only used kanthal for the wraps and NI80 on the cores but I've been enjoying using the ni80 on all of it. I don't get many of the cool colors from lightning vapes ni80 though
In my opinion Kidney Puncher and Twisted Messes N80/SS colors better then most others Ive used but if you want colors and even hotter vapes try some SS wire.
SS and Kanthal D color more then any other metal and its easier to get colors with them, just make sure to wash your build with soap and water before pulsing for best results.
For SS/N80 I like using 20w-25w and holding the fire button until the colors come and then I bump it up 5w and go from there until Im satisfied.
Kanthal D you can get on Ebay, there's a Seller named Kingorchid where alot of us get it....It colors amazingly when heated white hot. I like using 100w+ and holding it for 3-5 seconds and then bumping the wattage by 10w each time and repeating....there is alot of color stages in KD and the pattern is like the reverse of N80/SS.
Kanthal D (KD) Colors (Kingorchid Wire):
SS Colors (Kidney Puncher and Twisted Messes):
Holy hell that's freaking beautiful! And those pics do it damn good justice! I've not used ss for outer wraps and really not messed too much with it. Kanthal D I've never even heard of. I'm for sure gonna give that a try. I would never have thought to slowly warm them up like that to get the colors I want. That just blows my mind. Thanks so much for the info I feel inspired, like the first time I ever made a clapton all over againIn my opinion Kidney Puncher and Twisted Messes N80/SS colors better then most others Ive used but if you want colors and even hotter vapes try some SS wire.
SS and Kanthal D color more then any other metal and its easier to get colors with them, just make sure to wash your build with soap and water before pulsing for best results.
For SS/N80 I like using 20w-25w and holding the fire button until the colors come and then I bump it up 5w and go from there until Im satisfied.
Kanthal D you can get on Ebay, there's a Seller named Kingorchid where alot of us get it....It colors amazingly when heated white hot. I like using 100w+ and holding it for 3-5 seconds and then bumping the wattage by 10w each time and repeating....there is alot of color stages in KD and the pattern is like the reverse of N80/SS.
Kanthal D (KD) Colors (Kingorchid Wire):
SS Colors (Kidney Puncher and Twisted Messes):
The kingorchid wire isn't just cheap and pretty, it's spooled well and it's made by Sandvik.
LV is good for core wire but their n80 doesn't color for shit and their 1000' spools are crap. Every one I've had messes up about halfway down. Not something that can't be fixed but if it happens in the middle of a ssfc you'll throw it against the wall with the drill still attached. I'm not the only one it's happened too.
For everything up to 36g I use Temco. Higher than that and it's kingorchid.
Another good example of KD:
That's A1 ribbon and frames. Somehow the KD and the right lighting will make everything look different colors. Can't wait to get higher than 38g.
LV is good for core wire but their n80 doesn't color for shit and their 1000' spools are crap. Every one I've had messes up about halfway down. Not something that can't be fixed but if it happens in the middle of a ssfc you'll throw it against the wall with the drill still attached. I'm not the only one it's happened too.
For everything up to 36g I use Temco. Higher than that and it's kingorchid.
Another good example of KD:
That's A1 ribbon and frames. Somehow the KD and the right lighting will make everything look different colors. Can't wait to get higher than 38g.
Its extremely pocket friendly also and not many people know about it...mostly just the people on this forum so it can be a secret weapon when posting on places like Instagram...you can get colors with KD you can get on other metals like Green/pink/light gold/ and that silver red color....
I agree its spooled very well and Ive never had a issue with it myself, he does up to 5000ft small spools also!
I just wish he would stock some 36g and odd gauges...
some colors you wont see with anyone outside this forum unless they know about KD...
I agree its spooled very well and Ive never had a issue with it myself, he does up to 5000ft small spools also!
I just wish he would stock some 36g and odd gauges...
some colors you wont see with anyone outside this forum unless they know about KD...
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Image 0.3, 0.4 and core wires. I'm sure they make all of it in KD.
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CrazyChef
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Unfortunately, that's true. Or at least the busy part. I no longer have time to experiment and try new builds, or just do fun builds.
But hey, I got to make about 10 feet of SS aliens (in 18 inch increments) and got paid to do it.
But hey, I got to make about 10 feet of SS aliens (in 18 inch increments) and got paid to do it.
My try at a staggered.
Damnit man! One of the best staggs I've ever seen. I'm glad you got that strip you we're after. Is it all 0.3 and 30g?Clean pics of that 44G Staggered and Fused Staggerton, these beasts are .04 Ohms prefire! .05 after treating them...
Crazy chef sent me these a while ago I was saving them for something. That something came today
Thank you! I ran out of .3 unfortunately...Its 11 x .4R/27TMN80/44TMN80 (4 Wraps/3mm ID @ .04 Ohms Dual Coil)
I bet 27g is better than 28g or 26g. 28g is hard to center and 26g comes out too low. I do have a little I rarely use.
I like 28g, I just wanted to try out the 27g for framing...Its great for aliens though! I want to make another Alien stagg with the new odd gauges I just got...Im sure the staggs will be almost seamless this timeI bet 27g is better than 28g or 26g. 28g is hard to center and 26g comes out too low. I do have a little I rarely use.
I like 28g for ssfc but with the staggertons it sort of picks one side or another and makes it hard to fuse the gap on that side. Idk, I'm new to them.
This is my first attempt at alien coils. Be honest, tell me what I can do better. I know the spacing is a little wonky.
You sir should be ashamed for posting those eyesores here....you should exile yourself from the vaping community and never come back!!
Kidding....
Now that that's out of the way, they look really good, especially for a first attempt. The fusing looks pretty tight and the wire is flat throughout (besides that one lead). With some practice you should have these down in no time at all, you can only go up from here!
Thanks. It means allot coming from you. That damn lead, I thought it was all straight and it snuck up and twisted on me. It's straight now, I spanked it's face till it went straight. Any tips to get tighter coils. I was spinning at a decent pace with slight pressure at a 90 degree angle.
You mean tighter wraps? Let the drill do some of your stretching, stay 5° or 10° ahead of the wrap and when you're done fold the cores over the wrap so it can't be pushed off.
Good job btw.
Good job btw.
Awesome thanks. I did stay a bit ahead on some parts, but I was worried that it would space the coil out.
The faster you go the more you can lead.
There's othere stuff you can try like using a 24g decore for 3x 26g or 4x 28g. You don't need to stretch it as much and it makes the swoops more aggressive. I think it's easier too but that's subjective.
There's othere stuff you can try like using a 24g decore for 3x 26g or 4x 28g. You don't need to stretch it as much and it makes the swoops more aggressive. I think it's easier too but that's subjective.