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Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
For a series mech, about half a year ago I decided 29/36 Ni80, 3mm ID dual coil at .25 ohms was likely going to be the one choice to remember. I still haven't regretted the decision... it vapes wonderfully in the ultem Carnage (1.5 black ultem or 1.5 regular ultem or "non retrofit" regular ultem, doesn't make a difference except for looks) the fixed airflow on which I find to be just right with this build. Just need to pull a little harder than a single battery mech. Just a tiny little bit. :teehee:

29g aliens.jpg
 

Jinx'd

Platinum Contributor
Member For 2 Years
these are my very first 3 cores. what a pita, but i don't have the right tools and other issues = learning curve.
but it got the stick good enough to use. using these right now, not bad.
3x26-36 n80 3mm .10 . some spots look bad, many look great. i will get better.

20200407_200306.jpg
 

bx10r

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
these are my very first 3 cores. what a pita, but i don't have the right tools and other issues = learning curve.
but it got the stick good enough to use. using these right now, not bad.
3x26-36 n80 3mm .10 . some spots look bad, many look great. i will get better.

View attachment 158301
Look good...doesnt look like cores rolled either.

Sent from a very cloudy room
 

bx10r

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I like juggs...
#staysafe#fkcovd19
8c5cefd96f39f6f7a0a64771a48ae147.jpg


Sent from a very cloudy room
 

Jinx'd

Platinum Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Look good...doesnt look like cores rolled either.

thanx. not terrible for a first try. they did roll, many times, a few issues caused it. i had to unroll and go again.
i will fix those issues and try again.
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 3 Years
these are my very first 3 cores. what a pita, but i don't have the right tools and other issues = learning curve.
but it got the stick good enough to use. using these right now, not bad.
3x26-36 n80 3mm .10 . some spots look bad, many look great. i will get better.

View attachment 158301
That's dern good for a first shot man :D I've never tried more than 2 cores.
 

Wb80

-DIY-demon-
VU Donator
Gold Contributor
Member For 2 Years
VU Patreon
these are my very first 3 cores. what a pita, but i don't have the right tools and other issues = learning curve.
but it got the stick good enough to use. using these right now, not bad.
3x26-36 n80 3mm .10 . some spots look bad, many look great. i will get better.

View attachment 158301
Damn nice results, especially 4 a 1st go at em.
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 3 Years
ok. who was who ?

and. did you see ol boy trying to twist that coil, lol. bro, its not rebar :giggle:
That's Twisted Messes. I can't remember his real name. Ken I think. NICK was giving a tutorial of his tutorial LOL! TM was one of the earlier pioneers of complex coil builds and he designed some RDA's too. Some of these vets will know more than me. Twisted Messes and Ohmboy OC recently collaborated on the Dang RDA. Which I want, but wish was about 40 dollars cheaper.

Screenshot-20191108-013826-Instagram_1024x1024.jpg
 
Last edited:

Jinx'd

Platinum Contributor
Member For 2 Years
That's Twisted Messes. I can't remember his real name. Ken I think. NICK was giving a tutorial of his tutorial LOL! TM was one of the earlier pioneers of complex coil builds and he designed some RDA's too. Some of these vets will know more than me. Twisted Messes and Ohmboy OC recently collaborated on the Dang RDA. Which I want, but wish was about 40 dollars cheaper.

Screenshot-20191108-013826-Instagram_1024x1024.jpg


are you following me around the globe ? :giggle:

i like the look of some of those TM's
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 3 Years
are you following me around the globe ? :giggle:

i like the look of some of those TM's
I was there first bub :D

Yeah the TM RDAs are popular among exotic builders because they photograph so well. They supposed to vape good too which would be a real bonus huh?
I'm not big on colored coated decks, which I would have to deal with on the Dang too.

fullsizeoutput_12fe_1024x1024.jpeg
 

MrMeowgi

The Vapin' Drummer
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
That's Twisted Messes. I can't remember his real name. Ken I think. NICK was giving a tutorial of his tutorial LOL! TM was one of the earlier pioneers of complex coil builds and he designed some RDA's too. Some of these vets will know more than me. Twisted Messes and Ohmboy OC recently collaborated on the Dang RDA. Which I want, but wish was about 40 dollars cheaper.

Screenshot-20191108-013826-Instagram_1024x1024.jpg
There was one for 45 in the hardware thread. R3alJim Shady had it.
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
That's Twisted Messes. I can't remember his real name. Ken I think. NICK was giving a tutorial of his tutorial LOL! TM was one of the earlier pioneers of complex coil builds and he designed some RDA's too. Some of these vets will know more than me. Twisted Messes and Ohmboy OC recently collaborated on the Dang RDA. Which I want, but wish was about 40 dollars cheaper.

Screenshot-20191108-013826-Instagram_1024x1024.jpg
His real name is Kent Hill. He's not just "one of" the pioneers BTW... he basically invented advanced coil building, as the advanced coil building community came to existence because of what he did, him being the first to have started posting advanced coil pics and build tutorials on social media with the type of builds interesting enough that others quickly followed suit, i.e., back at the time on social media nobody else but him had yet been using relatively thin wire sizes to build vapable coils with.
 

bx10r

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
882c9b983d649d77c9c136f7fa885b35.jpg

Made a few Aliens today...

Might order another 1000’ of 36/38/40 wire, to be set for a long while.

And some more key rings


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Damn it...theyre kickimg me in my ass. I cant get em..

Sent from a very cloudy room
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Damn it...theyre kickimg me in my ass. I cant get em..

Sent from a very cloudy room

It took me a while to get them down well enough.

The few things I suggest is getting key rings, you twist them on the cores as a slider or utilize flat wire the same and pinch... I use 3- 3/4” diameter key rings across a 12” run

Next is having the drill anchored also, this allows you to pull the tension tight rather than relying on holding a drill stationary, I use speed clamps like this

0d0dcc4af358d392a9f400fcb47c76fd.jpg


And lay the drill on its side and clamp it to my desk... others use a vise... these are lighter and do the same thing. And since your build station allows you to adjust your swivel height, this might be something to aid in getting tighter tension.

Next I don’t do the whole 12” run let’s say left to right, I start left and go to the middle, then reverse the drill and right to left, this I’ve found eliminates additional twisting of the cores.

Lastly is the stretch, probably the most pivotal point. I suggest understretching the Decore... start trying to wrap, if you need to put tension for it to wrap, stretch just a tad more, then spin a few wraps worth... you should barely have to hold a lead on wrapping for it to just wrap itself...

Then it’s all about speed, I can’t wrap aliens fast like some, I have the drill on low speed which is like a max of 250 rpm, and I half squeeze the trigger to go slower.

I’m no magician, I still mess up making them... plus it only takes 8” of total wire to make a pair of 3mm 5 wraps

Oh yeah, I don’t place the cores within the jaws of the drill clutch, I cut the length down on a Bobby pin, can use a simple eye hole threaded bolt also, but wife had Bobby pins so I stole a few


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~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Damn it...theyre kickimg me in my ass. I cant get em..

Sent from a very cloudy room

Also, just to boost ya some... you can make staggered fused claptons... I booger those to hell and back, I don’t even attempt them anymore

I can’t space the regular claptons to save my life... and I know of the beadalon and or using the wire loop method to space the Clapton wraps... but yeah... I suck and can’t do it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

bx10r

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
It took me a while to get them down well enough.

The few things I suggest is getting key rings, you twist them on the cores as a slider or utilize flat wire the same and pinch... I use 3- 3/4” diameter key rings across a 12” run

Next is having the drill anchored also, this allows you to pull the tension tight rather than relying on holding a drill stationary, I use speed clamps like this

0d0dcc4af358d392a9f400fcb47c76fd.jpg


And lay the drill on its side and clamp it to my desk... others use a vise... these are lighter and do the same thing. And since your build station allows you to adjust your swivel height, this might be something to aid in getting tighter tension.

Next I don’t do the whole 12” run let’s say left to right, I start left and go to the middle, then reverse the drill and right to left, this I’ve found eliminates additional twisting of the cores.

Lastly is the stretch, probably the most pivotal point. I suggest understretching the Decore... start trying to wrap, if you need to put tension for it to wrap, stretch just a tad more, then spin a few wraps worth... you should barely have to hold a lead on wrapping for it to just wrap itself...

Then it’s all about speed, I can’t wrap aliens fast like some, I have the drill on low speed which is like a max of 250 rpm, and I half squeeze the trigger to go slower.

I’m no magician, I still mess up making them... plus it only takes 8” of total wire to make a pair of 3mm 5 wraps

Oh yeah, I don’t place the cores within the jaws of the drill clutch, I cut the length down on a Bobby pin, can use a simple eye hole threaded bolt also, but wife had Bobby pins so I stole a few


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Noted...thanks...been at them for a bit

Sent from a very cloudy room
 

bx10r

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Also, just to boost ya some... you can make staggered fused claptons... I booger those to hell and back, I don’t even attempt them anymore

I can’t space the regular claptons to save my life... and I know of the beadalon and or using the wire loop method to space the Clapton wraps... but yeah... I suck and can’t do it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My coil techer(yoda) as i call him says u canndo staggs but not aliens. Your an opposite type of person..lol
I love staggs
a90f8033dfd4fd18be5fc7e708627bec.jpg
c27d9794e933a2c40773a76673fa38de.jpg
12963bc92a7f24c67e36986932981b98.jpg
324c58c8fcf7965179792c49f88dc3a7.jpg


Sent from a very cloudy room
 

MrMeowgi

The Vapin' Drummer
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
882c9b983d649d77c9c136f7fa885b35.jpg

Made a few Aliens today...

Might order another 1000’ of 36/38/40 wire, to be set for a long while.

And some more key rings


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You use key rings to hold your cores? Looks to work well. One method I never tried.
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
You use key rings to hold your cores? Looks to work well. One method I never tried.

Yeah, 3-3/4” ones... the spring loaded draw string holder thingymabobs can work also...

1ac63a9d5934b10824d3760cef6eda7f.jpg

You just have to thread the wire first...

I like the key ring method, from drill to first key ring is maybe 1” just to get started then slide them down, once it touches the middle one, remove it and proceed to wrap from the right to the middle


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
It took me a while to get them down well enough.

The few things I suggest is getting key rings, you twist them on the cores as a slider or utilize flat wire the same and pinch... I use 3- 3/4” diameter key rings across a 12” run

Next is having the drill anchored also, this allows you to pull the tension tight rather than relying on holding a drill stationary, I use speed clamps like this

0d0dcc4af358d392a9f400fcb47c76fd.jpg


And lay the drill on its side and clamp it to my desk... others use a vise... these are lighter and do the same thing. And since your build station allows you to adjust your swivel height, this might be something to aid in getting tighter tension.

Next I don’t do the whole 12” run let’s say left to right, I start left and go to the middle, then reverse the drill and right to left, this I’ve found eliminates additional twisting of the cores.

Lastly is the stretch, probably the most pivotal point. I suggest understretching the Decore... start trying to wrap, if you need to put tension for it to wrap, stretch just a tad more, then spin a few wraps worth... you should barely have to hold a lead on wrapping for it to just wrap itself...

Then it’s all about speed, I can’t wrap aliens fast like some, I have the drill on low speed which is like a max of 250 rpm, and I half squeeze the trigger to go slower.

I’m no magician, I still mess up making them... plus it only takes 8” of total wire to make a pair of 3mm 5 wraps

Oh yeah, I don’t place the cores within the jaws of the drill clutch, I cut the length down on a Bobby pin, can use a simple eye hole threaded bolt also, but wife had Bobby pins so I stole a few


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Grab the key rings and throw them as far away as you can possibly throw. Do not understretch the decore. (A very, VERY tiny amount of understretch is still Okay.) Also when you cut your clapton, you don't actually need to remove it from your swivel. Just cut at the drill end, and, leave the core attached to your swivel when you decore so, next, this will be your middle core. As for the length of the cores, having about 1 ft., or more, of excess in the cores is going to help to prevent additional twisting of the cores, thus eliminating the hassle of having to stop in the middle and of having to go in reverse and etc.. Next, loop a single long piece of wire around the swivel in such a way that this will be your other two cores, and, at the same time also, be sure to not pull on it too hard... the little bit of spacing that goes on between the three cores at the swivel end of the cores is going to help keep the cores from wanting to bunch up. If you notice you're getting twist in the cores, either it's because you're pulling too hard on the drill or it's because you just need to get better swivels... or both. When aliening, start your drill on slow speed, and, after watching it catch, go full speed on the drill. Staying on slow speed actually increases, not decreases, the risk of fucking it up. It doesn't take to be a magician. All it basically takes is to never apply more tension than actually is needed for keeping the wires snug. This is true not only as for the cores, but also as for every other step throughout the whole process of building aliens. The harder you pull, the harder you will curse. And, the slower you go on the drill, the harder you will curse.
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Grab the key rings and throw them as far away as you can possibly throw. Do not understretch the decore. (A very, VERY tiny amount of understretch is still Okay.) Also when you cut your clapton, you don't actually need to remove it from your swivel. Just cut at the drill end, and, leave the core attached to your swivel when you decore so, next, this will be your middle core. As for the length of the cores, having about 1 ft., or more, of excess in the cores is going to help to prevent additional twisting of the cores, thus eliminating the hassle of having to stop in the middle and of having to go in reverse and etc.. Next, loop a single long piece of wire around the swivel in such a way that this will be your other two cores, and, at the same time also, be sure to not pull on it too hard... the little bit of spacing that goes on between the three cores at the swivel end of the cores is going to help keep the cores from wanting to bunch up. If you notice you're getting twist in the cores, either it's because you're pulling too hard on the drill or it's because you just need to get better swivels... or both. When aliening, start your drill on slow speed, and, after watching it catch, go full speed on the drill. Staying on slow speed actually increases, not decreases, the risk of fucking it up. It doesn't take to be a magician. All it basically takes is to never apply more tension than actually is needed for keeping the wires snug. This is true not only as for the cores, but also as for every other step throughout the whole process of building aliens. The harder you pull, the harder you will curse. And, the slower you go on the drill, the harder you will curse.

Grab the key rings and throw them as far away as you can possibly throw. Do not understretch the decore. (A very, VERY tiny amount of understretch is still Okay.) Also when you cut your clapton, you don't actually need to remove it from your swivel. Just cut at the drill end, and, leave the core attached to your swivel when you decore so, next, this will be your middle core. As for the length of the cores, having about 1 ft., or more, of excess in the cores is going to help to prevent additional twisting of the cores, thus eliminating the hassle of having to stop in the middle and of having to go in reverse and etc.. Next, loop a single long piece of wire around the swivel in such a way that this will be your other two cores, and, at the same time also, be sure to not pull on it too hard... the little bit of spacing that goes on between the three cores at the swivel end of the cores is going to help keep the cores from wanting to bunch up. If you notice you're getting twist in the cores, either it's because you're pulling too hard on the drill or it's because you just need to get better swivels... or both. When aliening, start your drill on slow speed, and, after watching it catch, go full speed on the drill. Staying on slow speed actually increases, not decreases, the risk of fucking it up. It doesn't take to be a magician. All it basically takes is to never apply more tension than actually is needed for keeping the wires snug. This is true not only as for the cores, but also as for every other step throughout the whole process of building aliens. The harder you pull, the harder you will curse. And, the slower you go on the drill, the harder you will curse.

Thx... appreciate your input.

I’ve tried many of suggestions along the way and my explanation above is just what worked for me, not a definitive way or the best. Just input.

As for understretching, I mentioned that to him as a suggestion for many times where the biggest hurdle to overcome is getting that facet right, you can always stretch more but not the other way...

I don’t get twists with how I go about making them now, but I agree with you when I did them faster my older swivels were not up to the task... I am confident my newer ones would suffice and more likely excell at higher speeds... so I’ll give it a try tomorrow, put the drill on speed 2 and give it a whirl

I do attach like you say, with only clipping the one side after spinning the core, just seemed to make sense than wasting wire, but out of habit I use key rings, again just what workes for me.

And for going left to center and right to center, I split the wrap in half, easier for me to manage the shorter wrap... I am sure I could just continue since it doesn’t twist... although again out of habit from when it did I do what I do..ado do do a dah dah dah

Be rad


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gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Me either...i boughtx 38g...shouldve doen 36. Ughhhh

Sent from a very cloudy room
Meg sent me a pair that were wrapped with 42. I can't remember offhand what the cores were. (I think 4 ribbons) I really doubt there's any way I could work with that.
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
Meg sent me a pair that were wrapped with 42. I can't remember offhand what the cores were. (I think 4 ribbons) I really doubt there's any way I could work with that.
The thinnest round wire I'll ever use is 40g, and, I'll never use it for anything other than a traditional-old stapled helix build (that is, with 2×32g twisted for the frames, .3×.1 ribbons for the ribbon stack). For aliens or fraliens, I found that 36g or 38g always vapes better than 40g so, because I have no interest in building coils that are more about looks than they are about how it actually vapes, I don't even want or need 42g anyway... and that is in spite of the fact I still love to make art. (I'll simply be happy to make paintings instead lol).
 

AnthonyLouis

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Unlisted Vendor
It took me a while to get them down well enough.

The few things I suggest is getting key rings, you twist them on the cores as a slider or utilize flat wire the same and pinch... I use 3- 3/4” diameter key rings across a 12” run

Next is having the drill anchored also, this allows you to pull the tension tight rather than relying on holding a drill stationary, I use speed clamps like this

0d0dcc4af358d392a9f400fcb47c76fd.jpg


And lay the drill on its side and clamp it to my desk... others use a vise... these are lighter and do the same thing. And since your build station allows you to adjust your swivel height, this might be something to aid in getting tighter tension.

Next I don’t do the whole 12” run let’s say left to right, I start left and go to the middle, then reverse the drill and right to left, this I’ve found eliminates additional twisting of the cores.

Lastly is the stretch, probably the most pivotal point. I suggest understretching the Decore... start trying to wrap, if you need to put tension for it to wrap, stretch just a tad more, then spin a few wraps worth... you should barely have to hold a lead on wrapping for it to just wrap itself...

Then it’s all about speed, I can’t wrap aliens fast like some, I have the drill on low speed which is like a max of 250 rpm, and I half squeeze the trigger to go slower.

I’m no magician, I still mess up making them... plus it only takes 8” of total wire to make a pair of 3mm 5 wraps

Oh yeah, I don’t place the cores within the jaws of the drill clutch, I cut the length down on a Bobby pin, can use a simple eye hole threaded bolt also, but wife had Bobby pins so I stole a few


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I actually mess up more when I’m going slower.... I think it’s the slower I go the more time my brain has to think I’m at the wrong angle or too much tension in the decore, etc... when I go faster my brain has less time to think and my instincts take over.

I tend to make a lot more Fraliens then I do normal Aliens, just what I prefer to vape. Lately, if I’m making an order for someone or just stocking up on tri/quad core Incase someone places an order I tend to go a bit slower then I typically do with my Fraliens but only because I need to make sure the cores aren’t binding up. This could be because I’ve taken a long break for coil building to deal with real life issues because I don’t remember slowing down for straight round aliens in the past lol

The biggest tip I could give anyone who’s just starting to make aliens is to use SS316L as the decore. IDK why, but IMO it does the alien wrap so much better then n80, especially kanthal. I think it’s a bit softer then n80/kanthal, I could be wrong though. No matter what cores I’m using, I always have a SS316L as the decore.

And I know most of you guys probably don’t know me or remember me but I’m one of the older members of this coil building forum :)


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MrMeowgi

The Vapin' Drummer
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I actually mess up more when I’m going slower.... I think it’s the slower I go the more time my brain has to think I’m at the wrong angle or too much tension in the decore, etc... when I go faster my brain has less time to think and my instincts take over.

I tend to make a lot more Fraliens then I do normal Aliens, just what I prefer to vape. Lately, if I’m making an order for someone or just stocking up on tri/quad core Incase someone places an order I tend to go a bit slower then I typically do with my Fraliens but only because I need to make sure the cores aren’t binding up. This could be because I’ve taken a long break for coil building to deal with real life issues because I don’t remember slowing down for straight round aliens in the past lol

The biggest tip I could give anyone who’s just starting to make aliens is to use SS316L as the decore. IDK why, but IMO it does the alien wrap so much better then n80, especially kanthal. I think it’s a bit softer then n80/kanthal, I could be wrong though. No matter what cores I’m using, I always have a SS316L as the decore.

And I know most of you guys probably don’t know me or remember me but I’m one of the older members of this coil building forum :)


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Hey man good to see you around.
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
I actually mess up more when I’m going slower.... I think it’s the slower I go the more time my brain has to think I’m at the wrong angle or too much tension in the decore, etc... when I go faster my brain has less time to think and my instincts take over.

I tend to make a lot more Fraliens then I do normal Aliens, just what I prefer to vape. Lately, if I’m making an order for someone or just stocking up on tri/quad core Incase someone places an order I tend to go a bit slower then I typically do with my Fraliens but only because I need to make sure the cores aren’t binding up. This could be because I’ve taken a long break for coil building to deal with real life issues because I don’t remember slowing down for straight round aliens in the past lol

The biggest tip I could give anyone who’s just starting to make aliens is to use SS316L as the decore. IDK why, but IMO it does the alien wrap so much better then n80, especially kanthal. I think it’s a bit softer then n80/kanthal, I could be wrong though. No matter what cores I’m using, I always have a SS316L as the decore.

And I know most of you guys probably don’t know me or remember me but I’m one of the older members of this coil building forum :)


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My brain thinks waa-aaaa-aaaaaaay faster than my 2000rpm cordless drill can keep up with so, my instincts don't easily take over. That's just part of who I am, how I've always been so there's seriously nothing I can do about it... yet, despite this, I also actually mess up more when I'm going slower... in fact it didn't take long for me to notice the fact there aren't too many people who don't. So then I got curious about why that is, as my wanting to know everything about everything (or almost) also is part of who I am. The answer is really simple. At high speed it just slaps it into place so that buys you more leeway.

As for SS316L as the decore. For me, it is just a major no no, as all it really does is add more rampup and make the coils last 10-12 times less long so Ni80 or go home, and, no Sir, steel isn't anywhere close to being softer than nickel with a bit of chromium. lol Nice of you to stop by and say hi, though!:)
 

MyMagicMist

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
At high speed it just slaps it into place so that buys you more leeway.

I can agree with this theory of yours, up to a point. Used to be a bit of a speed demon at doing stuff as well and know your theory holds a good bit of merit and validity from that experience. Met my wife, she is slow, methodical. Did I mention she is slow? :)

Over the past twenty years married to her, I've developed being "normal" speed. Of course, I still go too fast for her. She complains I have only one gear and it's full speed ahead. Still, in finding a common ground tempo I'm learning of doing slow.

There's a reason some of the best special services soldiers are taught a mantra. "Slow and steady, slow is smooth, smooth is fast, fast is lethal." If you take time and work gradually, ensuring you are doing the doing correctly, it does move the whole process along with a lot less adversity. It goes "smoother". And that makes it ultimately go faster.

Speaking here from seeing both sides of the fence. I still have trouble going slow. Still get told "take it easy", and still reply, "I go any easier, may as well be in a grave." That personal difficulty aside, I see validity to going slow or fast. :) Then, what would anyone expect from me. *chuckles* I butter both sides of my toast. :p
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
I can agree with this theory of yours, up to a point. Used to be a bit of a speed demon at doing stuff as well and know your theory holds a good bit of merit and validity from that experience. Met my wife, she is slow, methodical. Did I mention she is slow? :)

Over the past twenty years married to her, I've developed being "normal" speed. Of course, I still go too fast for her. She complains I have only one gear and it's full speed ahead. Still, in finding a common ground tempo I'm learning of doing slow.

There's a reason some of the best special services soldiers are taught a mantra. "Slow and steady, slow is smooth, smooth is fast, fast is lethal." If you take time and work gradually, ensuring you are doing the doing correctly, it does move the whole process along with a lot less adversity. It goes "smoother". And that makes it ultimately go faster.

Speaking here from seeing both sides of the fence. I still have trouble going slow. Still get told "take it easy", and still reply, "I go any easier, may as well be in a grave." That personal difficulty aside, I see validity to going slow or fast. :) Then, what would anyone expect from me. *chuckles* I butter both sides of my toast. :p
I wasn't trying to suggest that I'm fast at everything I do. I'm not. Just the think processes inside my brain always are fast, and, I cannot change this fact, as it really is just part of who I am. The good thing about it is, it enables me to be ahead of other people in situations and environments where it actually does matter. But you betcha there are way more than plenty of environments where everyone just assumes it is abnormal for a person to be like this. As a result from this, in many cases it creates serious problems at the personal level. But I don't think it makes me abnormal, and also I don't think it makes me special, or better. Instead, it only means I'm different. I.e., normal is just that which most people think it is. :cheers:
 

KingPin!

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I actually mess up more when I’m going slower.... I think it’s the slower I go the more time my brain has to think I’m at the wrong angle or too much tension in the decore, etc... when I go faster my brain has less time to think and my instincts take over.

I tend to make a lot more Fraliens then I do normal Aliens, just what I prefer to vape. Lately, if I’m making an order for someone or just stocking up on tri/quad core Incase someone places an order I tend to go a bit slower then I typically do with my Fraliens but only because I need to make sure the cores aren’t binding up. This could be because I’ve taken a long break for coil building to deal with real life issues because I don’t remember slowing down for straight round aliens in the past lol

The biggest tip I could give anyone who’s just starting to make aliens is to use SS316L as the decore. IDK why, but IMO it does the alien wrap so much better then n80, especially kanthal. I think it’s a bit softer then n80/kanthal, I could be wrong though. No matter what cores I’m using, I always have a SS316L as the decore.

And I know most of you guys probably don’t know me or remember me but I’m one of the older members of this coil building forum :)


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good to see you back mate, how you been keeping? :cheers:
 

MyMagicMist

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Instead, it only means I'm different. I.e., normal is just that which most people think it is. :cheers:

I think the best definition of normal I've heard is from Suicide Squad. "Normal is a setting on a dryer." *chuckles* I didn't misunderstand what you were saying regarding your thought processes. I got where you were going. My big problem? I collapse everything together. For instance I can trace the roots of Nazism back to some occult Jewish origins. Of course, I can also trace lines from something happening tomorrow to something happening today. I see the lines between dots and bring all the dots together. I over think, constantly. I also have a droll, dark gallows humor.

This is why I enjoy the irony of the Britt pop group Spandu Ballet's name. Spandu being the locale where the Nazi war criminals were hung after being tried. Upon hanging bodies kick and writhe, almost like a ballet. An interesting fact, if the noose knot is turned around to a person's face, they'll strangle upon hanging. That means their dying takes quite a while, is excruciating. Some of the original Britt commandos who were acting as executioners let some of the criminals suffer that. "Oh, oops, we didn't know." If the knot is placed in back of the head, it snaps the top four vertebra of the spine up next to the skull. That's a nearly instant death, humane. A proper noose has thirteen coils to counter the seven vertebra of the spine nearest the skull.

See? I over think and can point out too there's a lot of religious implications of seven stairs to "heaven". Gee, seven vertebra against a skull, coincidence? I don't believe in such creatures. Think about that type of yoga what teaches opening charkas. You'll probably see where I'm going with my correlations. But yeah, there's me ... lost in thought/s. :)
 

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