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Reuleaux RX 200.

darkshaft

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Youtube videos, and viewers comments making me so skeptical, especially about mod not reading full batteries, and not working after a week or two.......

Hope i will pull the trigger on a working rx200.

How is v3 doing until now? Is it buggy?
 

mjag

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There is a failure rate with every product and you usually only hear from the people who have had problems which is usually a small percentage. They have sold tens of thousands RX200's and if you can count on 2 hands the amount of people with mfg's defects then that is a good thing.

I would not worry about buying a RX200, just make sure you get it from a reputable dealer in the US. That way if you do encounter a problem then getting it corrected won't be such a hassle compared to a China vendor. The prices are so close I can't see a reason to buy from a foreign vendor anyway.
 

SOC

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Finally got three VTC4s in today to marry up and power this damn thing. I like it! It doesn't feel that much heavier than my Sigelei 150W TC. It's noticeable, but not "holy crap this thing is like four of those" noticeable. It fits really nice in the hand too, and an advantage to the bigger footprint is that it's a lot more stable sitting on the desk or table. My only argument is that it doesn't show battery life as a percentage, I much prefer the Sigelei 150's screen arrangement. But for $45? This thing was a damn steal.
 

Wingsfan0310

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Except for the amp limit. That's annoying


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The amp limit is strange. Having a 25 amp limit on the input is a reasonable limit (most people use 20 amp CDR 18650's). Having it on the output side of the chip in a 200 watt mod is the strange part. The chip should be stepping down the voltage and stepping up the current :confused:.

Cheers,
Steve
 

BillW50

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The amp limit is strange. Having a 25 amp limit on the input is a reasonable limit (most people use 20 amp CDR 18650's). Having it on the output side of the chip in a 200 watt mod is the strange part. The chip should be stepping down the voltage and stepping up the current :confused:.

That is exactly what it does. It will output 50A continuous at maximum and 55A peek.
 

Bucky205

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Guys need your advice, between rx200, and cuboid, the downside for me concerning rx200 that it's TC seems not accurate, and not sure if it's pocket friendly or not. Concerning cuboid downside the amp limit, that it won't give even above 100w with certain ohms. I need battery life, power, a working TC device, and a device i can take anywhere. So what is your recommendations? Thank you.
I have them both, and I like both the RX200, and the Cuboid. Both devices have been upgraded to the latest firmware. I thought the Cuboid's firmware limiting settings to 25 amps was going to be an issue for me. It really isn't a big deal unless your constantly vaping below .15 ohms, and like high wattage. My average build is around .22 ohms, and the Cuboid can push it to about 138 watts. Battery life is definitely better on the RX200 because of the extra battery.The temp control is better on the Cuboid. The Cuboid allows you to set both the temperature, and wattage in TC mode. The Cuboid is smoother in TC than the RX200. The RX200 TC is in no way bad, you just feel it cutting the power on and off to control the temperature. The RX200 is more capable in power mode, just because of the third battery. The RX200 can push a .1 build to 200 watts with no problem. A .1 on a Cuboid is going to 62.5 watts max. The Cuboid does a better job at TC. I like both of these MODS. It would be hard to recommend one over the other without knowing how you're going to primarily use the MOD. I would have no hesitation recommending either of these over a Fuchai. If you're into TC, I would recommend the Cuboid. If you like doing a lot of different builds, and having a lot of push to push them, the RX200 is a better choice. If you like running over 80 watts the RX200 can do it all day. If you only like dealing with two batteries, or only have a 2 bay charger, I would recommend the Cuboid. At under $40, your're not going to be disappointed in either of the two MODs.
 

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fq06

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The temp control is better on the Cuboid. The Cuboid allows you to set both the temperature, and wattage in TC mode.

You can change watts and temp degrees separately on the rx 200 in temp mode.

Also if you tune the watts to your temp you shouldn't get rattlesnake. Maybe you just have your watts set to high?
 
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BillW50

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Definitely an upgrade over my Xtar VC4 which was great until I have to charge 3 batteries at a time and it dropped down to 0.5 amp and took a long time. Just charged my 3 Samsung 3000 mah batts in the blu6 at 1 amp and it only took 1.2 hours.

I didn't have that problem with my XTAR VC4. I liked the first one so much, I bought a second one. So I can charge four 18650 at 1A each or eight 18650 at 500ma each. Then there are my two Electrify Triton chargers that can charge each 18650 at 2.5A (adjustable in 0.1A steps).
 

Bucky205

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You can change watts and temp degrees separately on the rx 200 in temp mode.
How do you get to the watts in temp mode on the RX200? We keep thinking it should be there because the firmware is so similar on the two devices.
 

Bucky205

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Bill, Your're the man. We have been thinking it should be there, and couldn't find it. I looked through the manual, but must have missed it. Thanks so much. We had a customer appreciation at the shop last night, and there were probably 8 or 10 RX200 owners trying to figure it out, and we couldn't.
 

fq06

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Yeah, depending on which firmware you have loaded. 4 clicks for the newest firmware and I can't remember the old one... 3 clicks?

From memory I'm pretty sure the click sequence changed with the newest firmware.
 

BillW50

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Yeah, depending on which firmware you have loaded. 4 clicks for the newest firmware and I can't remember the old one... 3 clicks?

It was always that way. The only thing changed on the menu (besides fonts) during all of the firmware versions was 3.0 changed the three click TC menu. Now you can scroll through all of the different NI, Ti, SS TC modes plus user changeable M1, M2, M3, TCR values.
 

fq06

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Oh yeah, that was what changed. Remembered something changed.

Just didn't want them ready to throw the mod if 4 clicks didn't get them to watts running an older firmware :D
 

Bucky205

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It was always that way. The only thing changed on the menu (besides fonts) during all of the firmware versions was 3.0 changed the three click TC menu. Now you can scroll through all of the different NI, Ti, SS TC modes plus user changeable M1, M2, M3, TCR values.
Does anyone know the relationship between the Joyetech TCR values and temp sensing? Another way to ask the same question would be; If you lower the TCR value setting for a wire, Is it lowering the degrees per ohm of change, or is it lowering the ohms per degree of change?
 

BillW50

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Does anyone know the relationship between the Joyetech TCR values and temp sensing?

Lowering the TCR value tells the mod that the wire changes resistance less with changing temp than before.

qDpbMVR.jpg
 

Wingsfan0310

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If you use a higher TCR then you would use a negative temperature offset.
For Example when people were using Ti wire in their Ni200 setting (Ti has a lower TCR than Ni200) they had to back down the temperature to get the desired effect. Hope that answered your question.

So if you want it to be cooler decrease the TCR. For hotter, increase the TCR.

Cheers,
Steve
 

Bucky205

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Lowering the TCR value tells the mod that the wire changes resistance less with changing temp than before.

qDpbMVR.jpg
I haven't played much with the TCR settings. I had found an article on wake and vape explaining TCR using; "The TCR of pure Nickel is approximately 0.006. This means that for every °C hotter a Ni200 wire gets, its resistance rises by (0.006 * <starting resistance>)Ω. So for a coil that starts at 1.0Ω, every degree °C of heating will increase its resistance by 0.006Ω (0.006 *1). For a coil that starts at 0.1Ω, each degree will increase resistance by 0.0006Ω (0.006 * 0.1)". -link below. Your chart is much more useful. Is there anything to be gained by tweaking TCR, for instance the Default SS/vs M1 with custom TCR's , can you tell a difference?

http://www.wakeandvape.com/blog/temperature-control-and-rdas-in-vapes/
 
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Wingsfan0310

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Lowering the TCR value tells the mod that the wire changes resistance less with changing temp than before.

qDpbMVR.jpg
That's the reason I just recently started using SS430 instead of 316L in TC. With more resistance change, it should be more accurate. The TCR is so low with 316L, I think it makes it very finicky in TC. So far I have been very happy with SS430 in TC.

Cheers,
Steve
 

Wingsfan0310

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I haven't played much with the TCR settings. I had found an article on wake and vape explaining TCR using; "The TCR of pure Nickel is approximately 0.006. This means that for every °C hotter a Ni200 wire gets, its resistance rises by (0.006 * <starting resistance>)Ω. So for a coil that starts at 1.0Ω, every degree °C of heating will increase its resistance by 0.006Ω (0.006 *1). For a coil that starts at 0.1Ω, each degree will increase resistance by 0.0006Ω (0.006 * 0.1)". -link below. Your chart is much more useful. Is there anything to be gained by tweaking TCR for instance the Default SS/vs M1 with custom TCR's , can you tell a difference?

http://www.wakeandvape.com/blog/temperature-control-and-rdas-in-vapes/
The way I see it, you would tweak the TCR if you are not getting your expected results at your usual set temperature. Lets say you usually use 450F, but with a certain wire the vape is too hot. You would lower the TCR to make it cooler at the same set temperature. Just another way to adjust, you could also just lower your set temperature.
 

BillW50

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Lets say you usually use 450F, but with a certain wire the vape is too hot. You would lower the TCR to make it cooler at the same set temperature. Just another way to adjust, you could also just lower your set temperature.

Exactly, but it seems to make more sense to me anyway to get the TCR right for your wire, so your temp reading is calibrated. I use an IR temp probe to calibrated mine dry. As my IR probe is useless if you are vaping juice (like in a RDA with the cap removed) as the lens just quickly gets coated full of juice and then the readings goes wild. As mine measures most accurately about an inch away.
 

kim leith

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That's the reason I just recently started using SS430 instead of 316L in TC. With more resistance change, it should be more accurate. The TCR is so low with 316L, I think it makes it very finicky in TC. So far I have been very happy with SS430 in TC.

Cheers,
Steve


Hey Wings where did you get the SS430 from? Had the same issue as you did with the 316L. Just vaped it in Watts.
 

Wingsfan0310

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Hey Wings where did you get the SS430 from? Had the same issue as you did with the 316L. Just vaped it in Watts.
I bought it from Unkamen Supplies. They are located in Missouri. Very good experience with them. I ordered it Tuesday evening, they shipped it Wednesday, it arrived on Friday. Here's the link if your interested.

Cheers,
Steve
 

BillW50

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Hey Wings where did you get the SS430 from? Had the same issue as you did with the 316L. Just vaped it in Watts.

What mod are you using? If the RX200, the firmware 1.08 and 3.00 is supposed to be set for 316L on SS. Before that it was set for 304 SS. If you use something like those Uwell Crown prebuilt 0.25 and 0.50 coils using 316L SS, they use nickel legs and throws off the TCR.
 

f1r3b1rd

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I bought it from Unkamen Supplies. They are located in Missouri. Very good experience with them. I ordered it Tuesday evening, they shipped it Wednesday, it arrived on Friday. Here's the link if your interested.

Cheers,
Steve
What tcr are you using on the DNA for it?


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Deucesjack

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My Crown Vapes fine on the RX with the SS coils and the 3.0 upgrade.

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Wingsfan0310

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What tcr are you using on the DNA for it?


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I set up two different profiles. One with a TCR of .00138, the other with the SS430 CSV file I downloaded from Steam Engine. I find the curve to be working just fine.

Cheers,
Steve

Edit Here's a link to the CSV file on Steam Engine. Just select SS430 from the drop-down, then click on the DNA200 tab, and then download TFR table as CSV.
 
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BillW50

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My Crown Vapes fine on the RX with the SS coils and the 3.0 upgrade.

That is what some others have said too. I would think the temp range would be almost double or worse. So does 400°F setting vape like 400°F? And 500°F setting vape like 500°F? Funny I have a Crown (another one coming tomorrow) and I have never used those prebuilt SS coils yet (just the Ni200). Plus I have two RX mods. I finally got one Crown RBA yesterday (haven't used it yet), one more coming tomorrow, and one more from China that I ordered like a month ago (without tracking).
 

f1r3b1rd

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I set up two different profiles. One with a TCR of .00138, the other with the SS430 CSV file I downloaded from Steam Engine. I find the curve to be working just fine.

Cheers,
Steve

Edit Here's a link to the CSV file on Steam Engine.
Grazie!


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Deucesjack

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That is what some others have said too. I would think the temp range would be almost double or worse. So does 400°F setting vape like 400°F? And 500°F setting vape like 500°F? Funny I have a Crown (another one coming tomorrow) and I have never used those prebuilt SS coils yet (just the Ni200). Plus I have two RX mods. I finally got one Crown RBA yesterday (haven't used it yet), one more coming tomorrow, and one more from China that I ordered like a month ago (without tracking).
I have 4 Crowns. I never knew until a few weeks ago that the standard coils are SS. I usually Vape ni200 exclusively. I have been vaping the SS coils on the RX at 60w and around 470f. The taste is really nice and clean with good Vapor production.

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Wingsfan0310

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Grazie!


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No problem at all buddy. I edited the post to include instructions how to get the file. I doubt you need them, but on the off chance you might find them helpful, here they are:

Edit Here's a link to the CSV file on Steam Engine. Just select SS430 from the drop-down, then click on the DNA200 tab, and then download TFR table as CSV

Cheers,
Steve
 

Bucky205

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Has anyone put electrical tape on the screen ribbon like some recommend on the RX200 to get it out of the way of the fire button? I wasn't going to bother unless I started seeing some ribbon cable failures.
 

BillW50

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Has anyone put electrical tape on the screen ribbon like some recommend on the RX200 to get it out of the way of the fire button? I wasn't going to bother unless I started seeing some ribbon cable failures.

The RX200 doesn't have the ribbon in the way, only the DNA200 one does the way I understand it. You can see a RX200 torn apart here and decide for yourself.

 

Wingsfan0310

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Has anyone put electrical tape on the screen ribbon like some recommend on the RX200 to get it out of the way of the fire button? I wasn't going to bother unless I started seeing some ribbon cable failures.
I could be wrong, but I thought that was for the early DNA200 versions of the Reuleaux. If I'm wrong, I'm sure someone will be along soon to let me know lmao :D. Just messing around with the last part.

Cheers,
Steve

Edit Bill and I were typing at the same time. I really need to get a refund on the speed typing class I took :p:D:)
 

psyshack

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As some may know I did purchase a second RX200 with a Crown Tank. Picked it up at a local vape shop for near VaporDNA pricing. Paid for one battery, got the other two free with two free 30mil bottles of juice and four free beers. :)

The second RX200 has acted a lot better than the first one did. Now that I feel I have two working right I feel the TC is still a botch job. Does not matter what tank, coils, setting or juice I use. The vape in TC is always dry with at least one pretty big pulse concerning temp. I do this with the Cubiod and it's good. No pulse with no dry. The dry is felt in my throat. It's really odd. When I set back up in normal SS, Ni, Ti they both seem to work. And still not as good as the Cubiod. The first RX200 will always give a pulse resulting in higher temp at the end of a draw. The second one will give a heat pulse at the beginning of a pull. It's almost like the RX's don't have enough cpu power or enough resolution in the programming, or both? Maybe?

Wismec did email me back concerning the first one I bought. They wanted me to send them a video. I was dumbfounded. A video of what? I asked? Then suggested they put a 12ga barrel in there mouth and pull the trigger. Click Send

I'm going back to work in the morning. I've been off for medical reasons since 11/9/15. I will be so busy I won't have much if anytime at all to mess with these two RX200's. Here's to hoping they get a new firmware out soon. :)
 

kim leith

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What mod are you using? If the RX200, the firmware 1.08 and 3.00 is supposed to be set for 316L on SS. Before that it was set for 304 SS. If you use something like those Uwell Crown prebuilt 0.25 and 0.50 coils using 316L SS, they use nickel legs and throws off the TCR.


RX200 with 3.00 upgrade.
 

BillW50

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As some may know I did purchase a second RX200 with a Crown Tank. Picked it up at a local vape shop for near VaporDNA pricing. Paid for one battery, got the other two free with two free 30mil bottles of juice and four free beers. :)

Wow! I am totally shopping at the wrong vape shops. :mad:

The second RX200 has acted a lot better than the first one did. Now that I feel I have two working right I feel the TC is still a botch job. Does not matter what tank, coils, setting or juice I use. The vape in TC is always dry with at least one pretty big pulse concerning temp.

Wow that is so strange to my experience. I wish I could check that out. But I mostly vape TC with Ni200 and maybe that is why. Although I vaped Ni200 only for 6 months and I was getting low on Ni200 wire. So to save some of it while I ordered some more, I started to vape Kanthal again (I have a ton of that stuff). And at first I thought Kanthal tasted horrible after not vaping it. It had a strong metal taste to me. I don't know, after a few days I couldn't even taste it anymore and it is just fine now (yes some of the coils are still working fine now without rebuilding and I am still vaping on them). I received my shipment of more Ni200 wire so no problems there.

So I can't really tell you much with the RX200 besides Kanthal (wattage mode) and Ni200 (TC) and they seem to really work great. Firmware 3.0 lets you change the TCR values and maybe that is the missing piece that you need.
 

snake94115

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I'm debating in getting the rx200 or the dna200 I can't sleep this is all I think about which fucking one I get?? I'm leaning on the dna200 clearly because I heard how amazing it is and blah blah blah

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Go for the RX200 as for a DNA200 you might want to checkout the Lavabox by Volcano.
 

snake94115

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If you're into TC, crazy builds, custom screens, and tinkering around with escribe then get the DNA. If all those things are not important to you get the RX.

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I didn't like the idea of the DNA version chewing up battery wraps as that is just going to lead to a quick battery failure.
 

snake94115

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Guys need your advice, between rx200, and cuboid, the downside for me concerning rx200 that it's TC seems not accurate, and not sure if it's pocket friendly or not. Concerning cuboid downside the amp limit, that it won't give even above 100w with certain ohms. I need battery life, power, a working TC device, and a device i can take anywhere. So what is your recommendations? Thank you.
The RX200 is dead on accurate for TC if you've been told differently from somebody they are either lying or misinformed.
Battery Life + Power + TC + Portability = Lavabox by Volcano
 

snake94115

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Gotcha. Mine has been fine for two months with nary a glitch. Haven't heard of too many people having issues.


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I only have 1 issue with mine it now has a very small dent on the top due to a fall when I sneezed while removing cells...Damn it.
 

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