So little discussion of Yihi SxMini M class and other boards like SX350???

[f1r3b1rd]

Haha, dude, its like a whole new mod!!!!
And yeah eco, kills the screen quicker, and turns off some 'background' processes, it tops you out at 40w but somxe it works in tc mode you really have ten mew presets.
Killer thing is I get almost all day with a tank in eco mode!

Lifesaver dude, notas good with an RDA but perfect for a tank!

And the 150w- I tried it once............. once
Hahaha

 

[2c5000]

I'll post some pics, my black/black still looks Good and I may leave that one be. this one will be done to match a DNA40 they already did

what device is that?

 

[f1r3b1rd]

what device is that?

Its a vaporshark dna40 with an erlprinz nano tank

 

[Mroutlaw]

Its a vaporshark dna40 with an erlprinz nano tank

What do they charge for something like that

 

[f1r3b1rd]

You're gonna have to email them I had a couple done together so I really couldn't say exactly
[email protected]

 

[Vlad1]

I've messed up and now I can't recover from it.
I "upgraded" using the Busardo video. My mod crashed... My gawd I wish I understood this better.
Nothing makes sense...
I plug it in and my computer says there's a problem with the device. (not recognized)

In 5 hours I've installed, reinstalled, uninstalled the 2 different 120s, stock (it isn't), over and over. I have read this thread several times and tried everything suggested. I've done so much, I can't remember it all.

The worst part is every upgrade step appears to go well.... D/Ling, installing... all "successful".
Then, when I turn it on in TC mode, it reads .06 ohms in Joules mode, no matter what atty I have on it.
It will not fire, I need help.
My M Class is a temp controlled brick. And I can't fix it.

I'm not clear how your able to go through the update process if your getting a device error on your PC when you connect it. I'd suggest you use a different PC using the SXI installer from yihisxmini.com and the update from the same site. I'd also suggest removing the battery before attaching it to your PC to do the update. There are a couple help files that go over the update process on the same site. There is also a valuebbook link somewhere there you may get some benefit from. I don't have easy access to look them up right now or I'd link them.

Edit: here's the links I was referring to.
http://www.yihiecigar.com/news_info/Upgrade-Valuable-Book-n61554.html
http://www.yihisxmini.com/download/Q-and-A-of-upgrade-for-YiHi SXmini-M-Class.pdf

 

[Mroutlaw]

I've messed up and now I can't recover from it.
I "upgraded" using the Busardo video. My mod crashed... My gawd I wish I understood this better.
Nothing makes sense...
It hooks up to the computer fine and installs fine, but no matter what FW version I install, the SXi software (that just installed it) says I am running version 2.3.

In 5 hours I've installed, reinstalled, uninstalled the 2 different 120s, stock (it isn't), over and over. I have read this thread several times and tried everything suggested. I've done so much, I can't remember it all.

The worst part is every upgrade step appears to go well.... D/Ling, installing... all "successful".
Then, when I turn it on in TC mode, it reads .06 ohms in Joules mode, no matter what atty I have on it.
It will not fire, I need help.
My M Class is a temp controlled brick. And I can't fix it.

Are you getting the firmware from the yihicigar website or the yihisxmini website. You need the get the firmware from the yihisxmini website.

 

[RebelGolfer72]

I've messed up and now I can't recover from it.
I "upgraded" using the Busardo video. My mod crashed... My gawd I wish I understood this better.
Nothing makes sense...
It hooks up to the computer fine and installs fine, but no matter what FW version I install, the SXi software (that just installed it) says I am running version 2.3.

In 5 hours I've installed, reinstalled, uninstalled the 2 different 120s, stock (it isn't), over and over. I have read this thread several times and tried everything suggested. I've done so much, I can't remember it all.

The worst part is every upgrade step appears to go well.... D/Ling, installing... all "successful".
Then, when I turn it on in TC mode, it reads .06 ohms in Joules mode, no matter what atty I have on it.
It will not fire, I need help.
My M Class is a temp controlled brick. And I can't fix it.

Version 2.3 is the version of the software on the computer that you are using to do the upgrade and not the version of firmware in the SX Mini.

Look at this document and it may help you. If not, I'd contact YiHi support.

http://www.yihisxmini.com/download/Q-and-A-of-upgrade-for-YiHi SXmini-M-Class.doc

 

[Fictitious Character]

I've never been a big fan of box mods but today's vape mail just might be the one that converts me and puts a few mechanical tubes on the used market...the SX is outstanding top to bottom and I'm loving it.

Doh I forgot about Vapinart. I was looking for a black/black yesterday and could not find one ended up going with a silver/black.

There's a thread on the Boxer on ECF. Some are enthusiastic about it but I'm not sure they realize the actual size of the device. Or if they do they don't mind a mod 1.5" thick on it's narrowest side. All my devices are under 1" on their narrowest side so pocketing them isn't a problem for me. And although it's a dual battery device the dimensions are about equivalent to 4 - 18650 batteries in square which would be about 36mm x 36mm, not very pocket friendly IMO. Hopefully the designer will come out with a design that removes all the wasted space and is more slimline for pocketing.

• Dimensions: 80.5mm x 41.5mm x 39.2mm (3.17″ x 1.63″ x 1.54″ appox.)

With the J board being near the size of an 18650 I have been thinking that a VS style design would well for a dual batt J board.

 

[Vlad1]

With the J board being near the size of an 18650 I have been thinking that a VS style design would well for a dual batt J board.

Not sure how easily the display would be to move it to the bottom but one could certainly design one similar to the Vapedroid B2-S1 that was designed for the original SX350 or even a C-frame unit and stay within 23mm x 64mm x 90mm or less. This is one of my favorite 3d printed designs.

And for comparison to the size of a Fastech enclosure with a DNA 30 installed.

 

[Vlad1]

Sorry, I wrote that poorly. This has worn me down. I'm back on it today... and grateful for your help.
For background, I've flashed (hacked) many complex Android phones so I was confident, what could possibly go wrong?

The upgrade process appeared to go fine. But it (or I) has muffed the TC portion of my M mod completely. It no longer senses resistance. Instead, it says .06 ohms regardless of atty. I believe (hoping & praying) this can still be fixed by flashing the device again because I have a lit display and it works in wattage mode.

Here's the abridged version of what I did yesterday...

I D/L'ed both SXi and the 120w (V2.2) firmware from the Yihi SX Mini site. (per the Busardo vid) I installed the SXi and flashed the F/W to the device. This appeared to be a successful upgrade. I checked the device when finished and and it had V2.2.
But the resistance on the device in TC mode read .06 ohm and I got the 'dry coil' warning on the display no matter what atty head I put on it. It worked fine in wattage mode.

Then I re-flashed the same F/W a couple more times with the same result.
Then flashed the 120w F/W from the Yihiecigar site... with the same result.
Then I tried to revert back to the stock F/W (v1.6) from the Yihi SX Mini site and the display had garble on the temperature portions of the display. It was awful, and incredibly slowwww on the adjustments using the gravity sensor.
Then I flashed the 150w from the Mini site, then I uninstalled and did a clean unzip and re-install of everything... same result.
I was losing patience and over the next 4 hours, I flashed everything to it except Furbie firmware... alll with the same result.
Then I went outside and threw cats at passing cars for a while & went to bed.

This is my 2nd M Class (1st died) and Yeti Vape may wanna shoot me if I return this mod... if they'll even let me.
My M Class is my bestest fave mod. I've got a $20 PayPal bounty for the advice that recovers it. I don't wanna send it back again.
Thanks all.

I don't see you state anywhere that you've have reset the device or sync'd the atty resistance after the updates. Both are necessary. Also there's never been a v1.6 for the SXmini m. Original was ver 1.4 then the last public release was 2.2 which is what is available now. I urge you to go through the links I previously posted step by step. If it's a simple problem with you not syncing the device or resetting it then problem solved.

 

[Vlad1]

So as you're scrolling through the menu options, 'powerful+' is supposed to come before 'powerful'?

Glad you got it figured out!!! Cheers... The menu presets are in a round robin so depending on if your using the up button or down button to adjust the preset determines what direction your going.

Using up button goes Soft > Standard > Powerful > Powerfu+ > Eco
Using down button goes Soft > Echo > Powerfu+ > Powerful > Standard

 

[Vlad1]

Send me your PayPal please @Vlad1 , lunch is on me... and thank you so much for taking your time to help me.

Lol no problem. Use that money to buy yourself some Premium ejuice and sit back and enjoy your new device.

 

[Private192]

cool

 

[Maverik_X]

I beleive vapinart will be getting them sometime atleast thats what I can recall.

 

[Private192]

thx

 

[f1r3b1rd]

There's a way to do it with the Up button??? Nevermind, don't tell me.

press down then up

 

[Private192]

I've never been a big fan of box mods but today's vape mail just might be the one that converts me and puts a few mechanical tubes on the used market...the SX is outstanding top to bottom and I'm loving it.

pretty hot, echos mine..

 

[fq06]

What's the deal with memory on this thing? If I set M1 for my orchid at 390° and then go to M2 and set it to 420° for my CLT... M1 changes to 420°.
Change one, it changes the other.

 

[Vlad1]

What's the deal with memory on this thing? If I set M1 for my orchid at 390° and then go to M2 and set it to 420° for my CLT... M1 changes to 420°.
Change one, it changes the other.

You can save Watts or Joules in the memory locations from the main menu but the Temp setting has to be changed in the sub menu system settings and is a single data reference so your not storing it with different temp settings per different Mx locations. Although it would be nice to be able to store output power and temp I don't believe there is a way to do that at this time. Perhaps we'll see it in a future update.

 

[fq06]

Even watts / joules can't be saved (from memory, not changing to see and have to wait and reset resistance). Not sure what gets saved.

Just odd to even have it. I would like to have a kantal memory and a couple nickel memories set and ready to go.
Whatever, happy as a clam with it.

 

[Vlad1]

Even watts / joules can't be saved (from memory, not changing to see and have to wait and reset resistance). Not sure what gets saved.

Just odd to even have it. I would like to have a kantal memory and a couple nickel memories set and ready to go.
Whatever, happy as a clam with it.

There are 20 Mx locations to store Power or Joules, 5 each for Power mode, Joule mode, Power Eco and Joule Eco. However if you change the setting from within the sub menu system settings it will default you to M1 with that setting upon exit, but will revert back to your individual Mx location settings once you change locations. But if you set all your Mx locations from the main screen it will store what you selected.

 

[fq06]

Hmmmm... going to have to ponder that for a minute.

So M1-5 is power and M6-10 is joules and so on?
So I can set M1 for a kanthal build and M6-8 for 3 different ni built atys?
But I can't have M1 as power and M2 as joules because M1-5 is a power memory slot?

 

[Vlad1]

Hmmmm... going to have to ponder that for a minute.

So M1-5 is power and M6-10 is joules and so on?
So I can set M1 for a kanthal build and M6-8 for 3 different ni built atys?
But I can't have M1 as power and M2 as joules because M1-5 is a power memory slot?

No their's going to only be M1 - M5 but there is 5 separate memory locations for each Power, Joule, Power Eco & Joule Eco. Do this and you'll see what I'm talking about.

Be sure to use the same preset when doing this whether it's Eco or Standard just make sure your in the same mode between Power and Joule.

Go into sub menu system with 5x clicks of the fire button,
Go to Power & Joule and select Power
Exit the menu system
Hit the up button until you get to M3
Hit the down button and Adj to 10w
Hit the fire button

Now hit the up button twice to get to M4
Hit the down button to Adj and set to 20w
Hit the fire button

That will preset M3 to 10w and M4 to 20w

Now we'll do basically the same in Joule mode.

Go into sub menu system with 5x clicks of the fire button,
Go to Power & Joule and select Joule
Exit the menu system
Hit the up button until you get to M3
Hit the down button and Adj to 20 J
Hit the fire button

Now hit the up button twice to get to M4
Hit the down button to Adj and set to 30j
Hit the fire button

Now you've set M3 to 20j and M4 to 30j

So your overall stored settings are for Power mode M3=10w, M4=20w Joule mode M3=20j, M4=30j

At this point you can go into the sub menu system selecting either power or joule mode and when you exit these will be the settings you have stored for M3 & M4 depending on which mode you chose.

Hope that's clear.

 

[fq06]

Thanx so much for the detailed response, Still not quite how I would think a memory slot should function but its better than no memory slots like my last mod.

 

[Mroutlaw]

View attachment 22829


Thanx so much for the detailed response, Still not quite how I would think a memory slot should function but its better than no memory slots like my last mod.

When you're in power mode, you can set m1-m5 to why ever wattage settings you want. These settings will be for soft, standard, power and powerful plus. So you can set m1 to 10w, m2 to 15w, m3 to 20w m4 to 25w and m5 to 40w. Not matter what mode you are in (soft-powerful plus) they will be the same. Now if you switch to Eco mode, you can make m1-m5 whatever you want, for example 8w, 12w, 18w, 23w and 30w. Those settings will be there whenever you are in eco mode. If you switch to powerful plus, the original settings of 10, 15, 20, 25 and 40 will be there.

Now if you switch to the joules mode (temperature control) from the menu, when you exit out of the menu, you can set m1-m5 to complete different settings for soft - powerful plus and then 5 different ones for eco mode. Every time you enter joules mode, these will be your preset wattages. If you go back to power mode (kanthal). The settings we did when in kanthal mode will be there.

 

[Mazam]

So is it possible that while vaping nickel any allergy i might have to it would be fine, but actively making the coils themselves would be enough to trigger it?

Made a new coil last night right before bed, and boom...woke up this morning with 2 small welts breaking out on my index finger again. Been having this issue with my hands for a while now. Was thinking it was Eczema since the doctor "suspected that was it" when i went and saw them, but the timing does line up pretty good with when i got my sx mini m class, and don't think that's something the doc was going consider since i didn't mention it at the time.

Which would basically suck btw, in terms of making this mod an expensive Kanthal device for me.

 

[Maverik_X]

So is it possible that while vaping nickel any allergy i might have to it would be fine, but actively making the coils themselves would be enough to trigger it?

Made a new coil last night right before bed, and boom...woke up this morning with 2 small welts breaking out on my index finger again. Been having this issue with my hands for a while now. Was thinking it was Eczema since the doctor "suspected that was it" when i went and saw them, but the timing does line up pretty good with when i got my sx mini m class, and don't think that's something the doc was going consider since i didn't mention it at the time.

Which would basically suck btw, in terms of making this mod an expensive Kanthal device for me.

http://www.webmd.com/vitamins-suppl...ingredientid=1223&activeingredientname=nickel

http://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/nickel-allergy/basics/definition/con-20027616

use ti for awhile and see if that helps you figure it out.

 

[RebelGolfer72]

So is it possible that while vaping nickel any allergy i might have to it would be fine, but actively making the coils themselves would be enough to trigger it?

Made a new coil last night right before bed, and boom...woke up this morning with 2 small welts breaking out on my index finger again. Been having this issue with my hands for a while now. Was thinking it was Eczema since the doctor "suspected that was it" when i went and saw them, but the timing does line up pretty good with when i got my sx mini m class, and don't think that's something the doc was going consider since i didn't mention it at the time.

Which would basically suck btw, in terms of making this mod an expensive Kanthal device for me.

It's quite possible that you could Vape on it from now until eternity and have no reaction to the nickel, but making coils it affect you. You have been vaping on more nickel than you realize. Pretty much any factory made coil prior to the last 6 months was nichrome, which is yup...60-80% nickel. All the "chrome plated" devices? Yup. Actually nickel plated. Even stainless has a small amount of nickel in it. So you may be fine to Vape nickel, but have reaction when touching it (and are you sure it was from the nickel or not some reaction to any residual oils on the nickel? If I'm not mistaken, it usually takes more than minimal contact to aggravate it (I.e. A nickel plated watch band that you wear for 8 hours would do it, but passing contact while you are counting and/or rolling change wouldn't do it)

But if you find that working with it to build coils aggravates your sensitivity to it, but can still Vape it fine (which you should, since nickel won't react to the juice), you have the option of using one of the pre-made nickel temp sense coils. You can also wear rubber gloves when building coils. You can also use titanium wire, although the safety of that is even more questionable than nickel

 

[Mazam]

(and are you sure it was from the nickel or not some reaction to any residual oils on the nickel? If I'm not mistaken, it usually takes more than minimal contact to aggravate it (I.e. A nickel plated watch band that you wear for 8 hours would do it, but passing contact while you are counting and/or rolling change wouldn't do it)

Not sure of anything at this point. Like i said, the timing involved just strikes me as rather convenient. As far as oils go, been using the nickel Gingervapes sent me with my sx mini, which is Lightning Vapes brand.

A week or so back i stopped using Nickel altogether for a spell, and in that time my hands cleared up. But i was also using the steroidal cream the doc gave me as well (still am). Went back to wicking up my nickel magma monday night, then vaped it while sitting home since (i took a kanthal setup to work). Thought to myself things seemed fine last night so i built a nick coil up on the Lemo 2. Then the breakout i woke to this morning was fairly fast coming on and rather blatant.

 

[Mazam]

I also only vaped evod/protank and original aspire coils for a very short time, as far as pre-mades go and FWIW.

Saw the value of building my own early on, when packs of 5 went for $4-5 no less, and never looked back

 

[RebelGolfer72]

Hope you get to the bottom of the breakouts. Don't sound like fun!, and hope you find that it doesn't involve you having to abandon TC, as it's a nice tool to have vaping.
I too went from ore-made coil devices to rebuilding (esp when 100ft of wire cost what a couple coil heads do!)... But recently, with the flood of subohm tanks out there, I am now split. At home, I'm almost always dripping, where I build my own coils, however I really like the convenience on the run of using the subohm tanks where I can stash spare coils in my golf bag, in my desk at work, my laptop bag as well as in all of our vehicles "just in case" when out and about

 

[2c5000]

You can also use titanium wire, although the safety of that is even more questionable than nickel

really? i was under the impression that Ti wire was the safest option when used in a TC application. obviously Ti oxidation is known to be carcinogenic, but in a TC device there would be no oxidation.

where is the possible danger with Ti wire?

 

[RebelGolfer72]

really? i was under the impression that Ti wire was the safest option when used in a TC application. obviously Ti oxidation is known to be carcinogenic, but in a TC device there would be no oxidation.

where is the possible danger with Ti wire?

The same way nickel will become unsafe in the vapor-- after folks try and make "contact coils" or dry burning it to clean it

 

[tchavei]

You can also use titanium wire, although the safety of that is even more questionable than nickel

Opinions are like mothers, everyone has/had one.

really? i was under the impression that Ti wire was the safest option when used in a TC application. obviously Ti oxidation is known to be carcinogenic, but in a TC device there would be no oxidation.

where is the possible danger with Ti wire?

It's not known to be carcinogenic. It's classified as 2 - potentially carcinogenic to humans.

If you read the study that conducted to this classification, you will find out it's really about nano sized particles rather than titanium dioxide by itself.

As long as you don't torch the wire to the point it becomes grey and dull, you are probably very safe.

I torch my Ti to gold or blue. The adhesion is probably very strong to the underlying material in those conditions.

Put a nickel screw in one of your bones and watch what happens. Titanium is the most inert material we know. Minimize the possibility of forming large chunks of titanium dioxide (which can have nano sized particles) and you probably be safe to go.

Be right back. I'm going to drink a glass of milk (which has titanium dioxide in it to make it whiter) because I feel tired scraping the white paint of my office wall (which is loaded with titanium dioxide too btw)

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[2c5000]

The same way nickel will become unsafe in the vapor-- after folks try and make "contact coils" or dry burning it to clean it

this is exactly why i decided to go to TC. i wanna ride that fire button for a long time w/out worrying about a red hot coil (wife). i could give the Evic to anyone and know its good to go. love that.

Opinions are like mothers, everyone has/had one.

It's not known to be carcinogenic. It's classified as 2 - potentially carcinogenic to humans.

If you read the study that conducted to this classification, you will find out it's really about nano sized particles rather than titanium dioxide by itself.

As long as you don't torch the wire to the point it becomes grey and dull, you are probably very safe.

I torch my Ti to gold or blue. The adhesion is probably very strong to the underlying material in those conditions.

Put a nickel screw in one of your bones and watch what happens. Titanium is the most inert material we know. Minimize the possibility of forming large chunks of titanium dioxide (which can have nano sized particles) and you probably be safe to go.

Be right back. I'm going to drink a glass of milk (which has titanium dioxide in it to make it whiter) because I feel tired scraping the white paint of my office wall (which is loaded with titanium dioxide too btw)

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

good shit. thanks. i have some reading to do.

 

[f1r3b1rd]

Cow's boobies make titanium ?
Need to find another milk for my coffee

I see things really simple-like, if nickel is good enough for pots and pans, jewelry, coinage, and has been used in vape gear since day 1, I'm willing to call it safe to vape.

Don't see what got tchavei all emotional, maybe too much ecf exposure.
Its friday dude, grab a beer.

 

[RebelGolfer72]

Cow's boobies make titanium ?

makes sense..why else would the word titanium, have the word tit at the beginning of it?

..and all this time I thought milk contained cow-cium!

 

[f1r3b1rd]

makes sense..why else would the word titanium, have the word tit at the beginning of it?

..and all this time I thought milk contained cow-cium!

You know, we could set up a dairy farm and be millionaires!!!
We could really milk them for all they worth!

 

[RebelGolfer72]

All joking, and all hostility aside, I'll use what I feel comfortable with, and everybody else can use what they want.

Right now, the jury is out on all wire.. Is aluminum and iron oxides any better for you than inert nickel? Or titanium alloys (I can't seem to find what other metals are in Ti alloys)? How about the chromium in NiCr? Until there is scientific research done on these wires under the conditions they see when vaping, do any of us really know?

Not trying to dissuade anyone from using any coil material. I encourage folks to do their own research and do what they believe is right for them. For me, seeing a major supplier who could make a fuck-ton selling Ti wire, to make this bold statement is enough for me to wait a little longer before I give Tittyanium a try .

http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/titanium_wires_for_vaping

 

[Fictitious Character]

I need to update my SX. The wife got her new SX earlier this week and it came with the updated firmware and now mine seems janky lol

 

[f1r3b1rd]

They look slick side by side !

 

[RebelGolfer72]

I need to update my SX. The wife got her new SX earlier this week and it came with the updated firmware and now mine seems janky lol

View attachment 23010 View attachment 23011

I'd switch the grips on those, you know you would like the black/black and she would like,the silver/gray better

 

[Fictitious Character]

They look slick side by side !

I told her I don't think I can figure out the update and may just have to buy a black/black lmao.

 

[Fictitious Character]

I'd switch the grips on those, you know you would like the black/black and she would like,the silver/gray better

I don't think she will let me. The silver/black is hers. I got duped lol

 

[tchavei]

Cow's boobies make titanium ?
Need to find another milk for my coffee

I see things really simple-like, if nickel is good enough for pots and pans, jewelry, coinage, and has been used in vape gear since day 1, I'm willing to call it safe to vape.

Don't see what got tchavei all emotional, maybe too much ecf exposure.
Its friday dude, grab a beer.

Actually cows don't produce titanium dioxide. Humans don't like milk with various shades of white so the industry has been adding tons of titanium dioxide to milk to make it shiny white.

Did you know that every single white toothpaste or white soap has also titanium dioxide in it? You drink, eat and intake TiO2 every day.

All joking, and all hostility aside, I'll use what I feel comfortable with, and everybody else can use what they want.

Right now, the jury is out on all wire.. Is aluminum and iron oxides any better for you than inert nickel? Or titanium alloys (I can't seem to find what other metals are in Ti alloys)? How about the chromium in NiCr? Until there is scientific research done on these wires under the conditions they see when vaping, do any of us really know?

Not trying to dissuade anyone from using any coil material. I encourage folks to do their own research and do what they believe is right for them. For me, seeing a major supplier who could make a fuck-ton selling Ti wire, to make this bold statement is enough for me to wait a little longer before I give Tittyanium a try .

http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/titanium_wires_for_vaping

I'm not hostile. I'm just trying to stop misinformation spreading. Speaking of which...

Titanium alloys (beta alloys) are a very bad idea because you have hundreds of different Ti alloys and most have components that aren't healthy at all. When I refer to titanium as a vaping medium, I'm always referring to titanium grade 1 which is 99.6% pure. The main contaminant in the remaining 0.4% is oxygen (0.18%).

Finally, if you want to cite stealthvape, why don't you cite the follow up on that article where they retract themselves?

http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/titanium_wire_update

For your information, stealthvape will start selling Ti grade 1 in less than a month.

First widths will be 24 and 26 gauge.


Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[f1r3b1rd]

I shall no longer brush my teeth with anything other than organic toothpaste.

No seriously, I tried TI, and to me, mot tasted like monkey testicle, for that reason alone I'll stick with nickel for Temp builds

 

[tchavei]

I shall no longer brush my teeth with anything other than organic toothpaste.

No seriously, I tried TI, and to me, mot tasted like monkey testicle, for that reason alone I'll stick with nickel for Temp builds

Well that's your right

Everyone likes something different. You like nickel, I like titanium and someone out there loves stainless steel and another one likes kanthal.

I just want to pass the message that Ti is no more dangerous than any material and it's probably safer than most so that factor shouldn't weight at the moment you choose wire x over wire y.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[f1r3b1rd]

That's just it right there dude, you don't want someone passing false information, but, in the same breath you don't have any hard facts or scientific studies to support the inhalation of it,

None of us do on any of this stuff. So, to say hard fact that it is safe or it isn't neither way are completely scientifically supported arguments. all we have are anecdotes.

 

[RebelGolfer72]

I shall no longer brush my teeth with anything other than organic toothpaste.

No seriously, I tried TI, and to me, mot tasted like monkey testicle, for that reason alone I'll stick with nickel for Temp builds

That's a good point on toothpaste...I never thought it the titanium as a issue, but I had to search high and low for a fluoride-free one that didn't smell or taste like hippie-sweat--- but the stuff I have doesn't have titanium dioxide in it either. Funny, though, Ever since switching to the fluoride/Tittyanium free stuff, I have not had a single flare up from my gums