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The BOREAS RTA by Augvape and Roxy

DukeBlue

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I didn't understand Josh saying "it has intermittenly bad threads". Is that possible? They can't be clean one moment and crunchy another. I thought maybe it was him cross threading things a bit when he first starts tightening.
I didn't watch his full review, I just watched the 200w test on the DNA200 and noticed he was having problems with the base. I think he didn't have the deck in completely, I had that problem the first time I put it together I couldn't get it to start threading until I noticed the deck wasn't in all the way.
 

DukeBlue

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View attachment 47578
Oh I love to mix and match, now ready to fill and Vape.

Also crossing fingers for a gold Boreas to be released. A black and gold mix would really be sexy!

3650c788b4ab6b7f5aea9dcde34043b9.jpg


Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Had to do it too, like this look a lot.


Boreas mixup1.jpg
 

rolf 2

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We are working on a parts diagram that shows how to put it together and all the o ring sizes.
thanks for that roxy ...that is needed for attys , but nobody does it .
so nice to know if you have a leak which oring you lost in the sink while cleaning it . and where it goes .
are they available now ?
sorry not up to date on all the posts ...urgent care and in the er all day jesterday ..have to lay down again .
 

roxynoodle

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thanks for that roxy ...that is needed for attys , but nobody does it .
so nice to know if you have a leak which oring you lost in the sink while cleaning it . and where it goes .
are they available now ?
sorry not up to date on all the posts ...urgent care and in the er all day jesterday ..have to lay down again .

I don't think it's ready yet. I'll post it in this thread when it is.
 

Steamhead

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....having problems with the base. I think he didn't have the deck in completely, I had that problem the first time I put it together I couldn't get it to start threading until I noticed the deck wasn't in all the way.

I'm having that problem as well. My 2.5 mm deck had a cut oring from the box, after replacing everything was good, but now I've noticed the deck doesn't fully insert. The oring squishes out where the indexing slots are. Makes it much harder to screw the base back on.

ETA: maybe that's why we've been finding so many cut deck orings? The groove was milled a bit too small?

I read somewhere else that they used a .75mm oring instead of 1mm, any input on that, Roxy?


Also, if you have any input on future color choices, copper or rose gold would be awesome!
 

roxynoodle

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I'm having that problem as well. My 2.5 mm deck had a cut oring from the box, after replacing everything was good, but now I've noticed the deck doesn't fully insert. The oring squishes out where the indexing slots are. Makes it much harder to screw the base back on.

ETA: maybe that's why we've been finding so many cut deck orings? The groove was milled a bit too small?

I read somewhere else that they used a .75mm oring instead of 1mm, any input on that, Roxy?


Also, if you have any input on future color choices, copper or rose gold would be awesome!

No, it's 1mm cs.
 

Steamhead

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No, it's 1mm cs.
Maybe the orings are a bit large? Does juice make them swell (or maybe heat)? I only have 1 deck oring left, but I could try to switch that in... do you think a .75 would still make a seal?
 

roxynoodle

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Maybe the orings are a bit large? Does juice make them swell (or maybe heat)? I only have 1 deck oring left, but I could try to switch that in... do you think a .75 would still make a seal?

You know, some people seemed to have the wrong size o ring! I bet you're one of them. They are supposed to be 12 ID x 1cs. Some people had 10ID x 1.2 cs.

PM me your address and I'll send you some.
 

inspects

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You know, some people seemed to have the wrong size o ring! I bet you're one of them. They are supposed to be 12 ID x 1cs. Some people had 10ID x 1.2 cs.

PM me your address and I'll send you some.
Your a very helpful Roxynoodle....then I have to say....:goodnight:

Have a great day tomorrow everyone...!
 

Rconrad

Member For 3 Years
Thanks for your reply without making me feel like a dumbass. Ill give it a try.
Ope-just read ur thread. Ive already comminsensically tried that and it still leaks. I just got it today so ill disect it and figure out the leak but thanks for your reply anyway!
 

JERUS

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Couldnt find that. Could u post the link please? Leaking like a faucet.
Cut more cotton than you think is necessary, simply start out overcompensating. If you get a dry hit you know you have too much and thanks to the easy wicking style you can easily remove the deck and rewick. Always fill by tilting the tank over for a few seconds before closing the juice/airflow this will put air up inside the closed off deck portion. Then close it tip it over and fill. What this does is put a cushion of air in there to help equalize the pressure when you fill and release the juice flow. Without that you may have too much pressure inside the tank that it wants to push juice out rather than keep it in. Other than that again just keep using more cotton than you think you need until you hit the point of dryhits then back off. RTAs are about getting the perfect amount of cotton in there, they're the last "seal", too much and you have too tight of a seal preventing juice from flowing correctly, not enough and you don't have enough of that back pressure and you get leaking. It's a balance. And while the boreas is the easiest tank I've come across for wicking it's not immune to that line that needs to be maintained, it just has the thickest line I've seen.
 

Dampfsucht

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You know, some people seemed to have the wrong size o ring! I bet you're one of them. They are supposed to be 12 ID x 1cs. Some people had 10ID x 1.2 cs.

PM me your address and I'll send you some.
Maybe the orings are a bit large? Does juice make them swell (or maybe heat)? I only have 1 deck oring left, but I could try to switch that in... do you think a .75 would still make a seal?

I had the similar problem on my 2.5 deck. Original o-ring would not allow the deck to seat into the chamber, due to its o-ring binding. Wound up using a 15mm o-ring that I had on hand; it seems to be working fine. The base fits into the chamber now and seems to seal. 12 mm didn't seal tight enough on the chamber wall, so I figured a larger o-ring would give me less stretch and a snugger fit in the deck chamber. My groove must be off. Curious though, what size all the other o-rings are supposed to be.

Assembly diagram would be a nice touch!
 

Rconrad

Member For 3 Years
This page, posts #42 and #45.

http://vapingunderground.com/threads/the-boreas-rta-by-augvape-and-roxy.216456/[/QUOTE
When i receibed the tank today I noticed the decks post on the right was tilted inward. Could that be it? The other deck that came with it was perfectly parellel /straight. This is the smallest juice hole deck and im using a full pg juice. Heres a pic. When i first put the deck in their was more room between the coil and airholes. All the airholes are covered.
 

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JERUS

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My 2.5mm juice flow hole deck is a nice potentially overly tight fit in the tank. the 2.0 hole deck is a little loose. Both have treated me nicely though, but only a 2 days of use now, I'd say I'm a little fearful of tearing on the 2.5mm deck, and would like a little more snuggness on the 2.0 for safety, but again no issues so far which is nice. I haven't looked but are the grooves different in them?
 

Rconrad

Member For 3 Years
My 2.5mm juice flow hole deck is a nice potentially overly tight fit in the tank. the 2.0 hole deck is a little loose. Both have treated me nicely though, but only a 2 days of use now, I'd say I'm a little fearful of tearing on the 2.5mm deck, and would like a little more snuggness on the 2.0 for safety, but again no issues so far which is nice. I haven't looked but are the grooves different in them?
Tx!!
 

ckone180

Member For 4 Years
Maybe the orings are a bit large? Does juice make them swell (or maybe heat)? I only have 1 deck oring left, but I could try to switch that in... do you think a .75 would still make a seal?
The ones that came installed on my SS one were definitely the wrong ones. If I were to match up the ones from the spares that the factory put in originally, the deck was a very snug fit and would tear and eventually split again.

Using the correct 12X1mm oring gives a very easy fit, almost loose, but it seals great.

The black one that I received this week had the correct ones installed out of the box.
 

ej1024

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The Supreme gives SLIGHTLY better flavor and has JFC/AFC separate, that's about it. The Boreas has more airflow, a slightly bigger capacity, looks way better, has a much smoother/more satisfying draw, has a bigger build deck, has two build decks included instead of one, is much easier to clean and just is much more pleasing to vape. I've used both tanks extensively, at first I favored the Supreme but after using the Boreas a while I sold my Supreme due to lack of use.
you said supreme is better FLAVAHCHUCKER? that's (SUBJECTIVE) !!
hands down, best TANKS OF 2016 so far...
 

raymo2u

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Good morning carp
It really depends on ur
Juice
Coils
Wicks
Temp
Wattage
Airflow
Etc...
Both are FLAVAHCHUCKER ✈️
You will see when u get urs..
No the Boreas is better becuase I said so...My words are delivered from god himself and has been given approval from every leader of every nation, plus the pope. So take it as the only thing you should ever listen to. :headbang::p
 

roxynoodle

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I had the similar problem on my 2.5 deck. Original o-ring would not allow the deck to seat into the chamber, due to its o-ring binding. Wound up using a 15mm o-ring that I had on hand; it seems to be working fine. The base fits into the chamber now and seems to seal. 12 mm didn't seal tight enough on the chamber wall, so I figured a larger o-ring would give me less stretch and a snugger fit in the deck chamber. My groove must be off. Curious though, what size all the other o-rings are supposed to be.

Assembly diagram would be a nice touch!

I think they are doing a diagram. I'll ask tonight. If they aren't I'll employ my crappy CAD skills and make one.
 

raymo2u

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I just made some Alien Framed Staples....Im still deciding whether or not Ill keep them and use them or sell them. These should provide THEE BEST vape there is. The wicking properties of the Alien Wrap along with the Flavor Intensity and Vapor Production of the Framed Staple Core....I think I will try to make another set and definitely put them in the Boreas....but its about 1.5 hours just to make these...
How they are done in basic form...this is the quickest explanation, so just imagine how long it actually takes.
1.) Clapton a Wire, decore the clapton, stretch the decored clapton...Steps just for the Alien Wrap
2.) Pull tight and trim Ribbon Wire off spool (needs to be perfectly flat and straight), Stack the Ribbon (not fun), frame them and secure frames...Steps for Core
3.) Set Core into Drill, Set up the Wrap, Hold with perfect tension on Drill AND decored clapton wrap, DO NOT SCREW UP!....Steps of wrapping it together..
4.) Wrap it on Bit holding the Wire end as tight pushing away as possible or Ribbon will fold/warp without squeezing too much to screw up Alien wrap...
I hope you guys can appreciate these as much as I do..

20160415_102633.jpg 20160415_102413.jpg 20160415_102458.jpg 20160415_104435.jpg 20160415_104122.jpg 20160415_104213.jpg

I still havent tossed them into the Ultrasonic Cleaner yet...I may Flatten and Polish the next Pair also..

After the Ultrasonic Cleaner!

20160415_111954.jpg 20160415_112056.jpg 20160415_112027.jpg 20160415_112152.jpg
 
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ej1024

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I just made some Alien Framed Staples....Im still deciding whether or not Ill keep them and use them or sell them. These should provide THEE BEST vape there is. The wicking properties of the Alien Wrap along with the Flavor Intensity and Vapor Production of the Framed Staple Core....I think I will try to make another set and definitely put them in the Boreas....but its about 1.5 hours just to make these...
How they are done in basic form...this is the quickest explanation, so just imagine how long it actually takes.
1.) Clapton a Wire, decore the clapton, stretch the decored clapton...Steps just for the Alien Wrap
2.) Pull tight and trim Ribbon Wire off spool (needs to be perfectly flat and straight), Stack the Ribbon (not fun), frame them and secure frames...Steps for Core
3.) Set Core into Drill, Set up the Wrap, Hold with perfect tension on Drill AND decored clapton wrap, DO NOT SCREW UP!....Steps of wrapping it together..
4.) Wrap it on Bit holding the Wire end as tight pushing away as possible or Ribbon will fold/warp without squeezing too much to screw up Alien wrap...
I hope you guys can appreciate these as much as I do..

View attachment 47616 View attachment 47615 View attachment 47618 View attachment 47614 View attachment 47613 View attachment 47617

I still havent tossed them into the Ultrasonic Cleaner yet...I may Flatten and Polish the next Pair also..
Gee
 

Jimi D

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VERY TIGHT? Can we see it please
It's very easy to do. I separate a cotton pad. Cut it in half length wise. I add a 3/8" strip piece of cotton strip that I used from smaller coil builds. Place that on a half cut cotton pad. Roll it like a cig but as tight as you can get it. Then I twist a tip pinching and twisting with my thumb and index finger. That fits through the coil. Then work it through. That's the toughest part. I add the juice and let it soak in for at least five minutes. Fire it up and add juice to get the wick totally soaked in there. I just never understood why people said that too much cotton is not good. I get great results every time when I use this method.
 

ej1024

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It's very easy to do. I separate a cotton pad. Cut it in half length wise. I add a 3/8" strip piece of cotton strip that I used from smaller coil builds. Place that on a half cut cotton pad. Roll it like a cig but as tight as you can get it. Then I twist a tip pinching and twisting with my thumb and index finger. That fits through the coil. Then work it through. That's the toughest part. I add the juice and let it soak in for at least five minutes. Fire it up and add juice to get the wick totally soaked in there. I just never understood why people said that too much cotton is not good. I get great results every time when I use this method.
Huh, very interesting
 

Mikhail Naumov

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Huh, very interesting
That's called the Scottish Roll I believe. I use Cotton Bacon V2, so I've never had a chance to use it. I don't like the pads, you don't get enough cotton. Also I was told the sterilized dental cotton was the same as CBV2 a while ago, but when using the dental cotton I get this nasty break-in that lasts for about an hour. I don't know what they use to sterilize it, but I am not a fan.
 

Rixsta

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@roxynoodle So sorry about what happened on ECF, we all miss you but that's not why I'm here.

I wanted to thank you for making me such a happy vapor, the Boreas is incredible, it wicks like a dream, beautifully made, clever design.

I took this before I put my build in, which was just a simple spaced 9 wrap, 3mm, 24g kanthal bang on 0.4ohms, 65W, even this build has so much flavor, I really can't express how happy I am atm.

Augvape and Roxy have made the best RTA or should I call it an RDTA, I will be buying more of these, there's no doubt about it !!!

mj343r.png
 

JERUS

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That's called the Scottish Roll I believe. I use Cotton Bacon V2, so I've never had a chance to use it. I don't like the pads, you don't get enough cotton. Also I was told the sterilized dental cotton was the same as CBV2 a while ago, but when using the dental cotton I get this nasty break-in that lasts for about an hour. I don't know what they use to sterilize it, but I am not a fan.
Naw, just another option for extra thick cotton. Scottish roll you stretch out the pad then roll it up nice and tightish. I've been using the scottish method for wicking my Griffin the last few weeks, it's pretty amazing how well it works, thought it was just an RDA thing but figured what the hell and gave it a shot. First time my wicks lasted a week and a half before I got the first hint of a burnt taste, figured it was a good time to change them and took them out to see they still looked lovely but just a little browning in one spot. Anyways, it's nice.
 

roxynoodle

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@roxynoodle So sorry about what happened on ECF, we all miss you but that's not why I'm here.

I wanted to thank you for making me such a happy vapor, the Boreas is incredible, it wicks like a dream, beautifully made, clever design.

I took this before I put my build in, which was just a simple spaced 9 wrap, 3mm, 24g kanthal bang on 0.4ohms, 65W, even this build has so much flavor, I really can't express how happy I am atm.

Augvape and Roxy have made the best RTA or should I call it an RDTA, I will be buying more of these, there's no doubt about it !!!

mj343r.png


Thank you for the kind words, and posts like this make all the negative stuff worth it :)
 

ej1024

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I have been wicking that way from day 1...not too tight not too loose though I call it
EJ roll... JAP COTTON..


VAPE IT
 

tazz2293

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@roxynoodle So sorry about what happened on ECF, we all miss you but that's not why I'm here.

I wanted to thank you for making me such a happy vapor, the Boreas is incredible, it wicks like a dream, beautifully made, clever design.

I took this before I put my build in, which was just a simple spaced 9 wrap, 3mm, 24g kanthal bang on 0.4ohms, 65W, even this build has so much flavor, I really can't express how happy I am atm.

Augvape and Roxy have made the best RTA or should I call it an RDTA, I will be buying more of these, there's no doubt about it !!!

mj343r.png

Is that a 2puffs drip tip?
 

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