The BOREAS RTA by Augvape and Roxy

[raymo2u]

I think this is the craziest Boreas Build Ive done yet...it may not look as insane as some of the others but its spec's DO NOT belong in a RTA....but damn its a fine vape and the Boreas is keeping up without a hiccup! Look at this sexy stuff right here, I admit I was pretty damn impressed with myself....and Im using some Native wicks Platinum Blend for wicking....They give you alot of cotton but I dont think its much better then Cotton Bacon V2, I would rate them about the same in color & cleanliness, absorbency, and flavor...

Alien Fraples 6 x .4R/26KA1/38N80 (6 wraps/3mm ID @ .08 Ohms)
Color shots of how they happened...I thinks its just sexy...

 

[suprtrkr]

Is this thread shut down???

I'm over here, Lucy

 

[Topweasel]

So I got my Boreas over the weekend and immediately went to work. So I started with a pre-made clapton that I ordered at the same time. That one has been working fantastically though I am running it a bit under powered. The deck was easy to work with, so much so that I decided to prep up the other deck for when I do a flavor change and am going to use a higher ohm Kanthal coil that I made. Wicking was supper easy. Haven't had any leaking during normal usage. It is a well designed beast.

But at least for a beginner like me (first rebuild-able anything), I do have a few cons.
Seals. They are too small and fragile. I almost damaged the one under the glass when unscrewing it and the one between fill port and the cap tore in half when I tried to open it.
Glass placement. I would have liked it if the glass had a slight shelf to keep it in place. My only leaks have been from refilling. Even though I have made sure that the fill post/chimney/JC are tightly screwed together when I screw the top back down the pressure forces a little juice under the glass at the bottom.
JFC. Unavoidable flooding ( this lead to a burn on my thumb mostly my fault though). I turn the tank upside down with the juice flow open to drain the bottom, I then close the jfc. I then flip over the tank. All is good at this point. Then I un screw the top to refill. As I unscrew the top, even with juiceflow off, as the vacuum is lost it I start seeing air pockets rise through the liquid. This the coil floods at this point causing some liquid to come out the air holes. I stupidly accidentally blew out while dealing with a flooded deck and a gob of super hot liquid landed on my thumb.

The finish. I got the black finish. most of my devices are either black or dark. Compared to my Herk plus. Its a much more matte feeling finish. This causes juice to really stick to it and other things like dust to stick to the juice. So when it does leak I have to spend much longer cleaning it. Looks great clean just a little hard to keep it that way unless you successfully get all the juice off of it.

Good news is that the minor leaking (guessing I am losing about .25-.5ml) is completely manageable. I know when and how it is going to happen and can resolve it really quickly. As Pbusardo would say. It's not vape affecting. Wicking is great and I haven't seen anything to lead me to believe that it will leak at any point other than those two (though I haven't done the laying on side test). The capacity is great and assuming I do a reasonable build to keep it in line with regular sub-ohm tanks I don't see why it can't sip juice better than my herk. That said the airflow at completely open, the deck size, the capacity seem to beg for power. Assuming because its just swapping out cotton if it doesn't leak much in the future it probably become my primary device as I get more and more comfortable with rebuilding. At least I know when I will have an issue unlike my prefab coil tanks that just start pissing randomly as soon as the coil decides its done.

So major questions.

I probably need to recheck the thread but anyone know if and where you can get replacement seals.? As sensitive as the ones already on the unit were I would like to have backups.

With the regs that have come down I am probably going to shift to more rebuild-able products in the future. Next purchases are probably going to be a clone Velocity and a Tebeco Kayfun mini v3. Any other devices of varying size from really small to probably max size 30mm I should look at?

 

[raymo2u]

So I got my Boreas over the weekend and immediately went to work. So I started with a pre-made clapton that I ordered at the same time. That one has been working fantastically though I am running it a bit under powered. The deck was easy to work with, so much so that I decided to prep up the other deck for when I do a flavor change and am going to use a higher ohm Kanthal coil that I made. Wicking was supper easy. Haven't had any leaking during normal usage. It is a well designed beast.

But at least for a beginner like me (first rebuild-able anything), I do have a few cons.
Seals. They are too small and fragile. I almost damaged the one under the glass when unscrewing it and the one between fill port and the cap tore in half when I tried to open it.
Glass placement. I would have liked it if the glass had a slight shelf to keep it in place. My only leaks have been from refilling. Even though I have made sure that the fill post/chimney/JC are tightly screwed together when I screw the top back down the pressure forces a little juice under the glass at the bottom.
JFC. Unavoidable flooding ( this lead to a burn on my thumb mostly my fault though). I turn the tank upside down with the juice flow open to drain the bottom, I then close the jfc. I then flip over the tank. All is good at this point. Then I un screw the top to refill. As I unscrew the top, even with juiceflow off, as the vacuum is lost it I start seeing air pockets rise through the liquid. This the coil floods at this point causing some liquid to come out the air holes. I stupidly accidentally blew out while dealing with a flooded deck and a gob of super hot liquid landed on my thumb.

The finish. I got the black finish. most of my devices are either black or dark. Compared to my Herk plus. Its a much more matte feeling finish. This causes juice to really stick to it and other things like dust to stick to the juice. So when it does leak I have to spend much longer cleaning it. Looks great clean just a little hard to keep it that way unless you successfully get all the juice off of it.

Good news is that the minor leaking (guessing I am losing about .25-.5ml) is completely manageable. I know when and how it is going to happen and can resolve it really quickly. As Pbusardo would say. It's not vape affecting. Wicking is great and I haven't seen anything to lead me to believe that it will leak at any point other than those two (though I haven't done the laying on side test). The capacity is great and assuming I do a reasonable build to keep it in line with regular sub-ohm tanks I don't see why it can't sip juice better than my herk. That said the airflow at completely open, the deck size, the capacity seem to beg for power. Assuming because its just swapping out cotton if it doesn't leak much in the future it probably become my primary device as I get more and more comfortable with rebuilding. At least I know when I will have an issue unlike my prefab coil tanks that just start pissing randomly as soon as the coil decides its done.

So major questions.

I probably need to recheck the thread but anyone know if and where you can get replacement seals.? As sensitive as the ones already on the unit were I would like to have backups.

With the regs that have come down I am probably going to shift to more rebuild-able products in the future. Next purchases are probably going to be a clone Velocity and a Tebeco Kayfun mini v3. Any other devices of varying size from really small to probably max size 30mm I should look at?

Sounds to me like your not using enough wick if its leaking out of the JC...I dont have any issues with the Rings/Seals. You should be able to get replacements from your distributer...Subtanks Supply should have them also. There arent any great 30mm RTA's besides the Modfather...which Im reluctant to say that...Its not as great as it could be but many like it the way it is.

The finish is a Matte Black finish...its not a gloss black like other devices.

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

Long day, I've been speaking with Dimitri (The Golden/Vaping Greek from YT) who works at my local MoV about the multi-million dollar lawsuit (just one of many, by the way) that will have the FDA in court. So, best case, we get the freedom we deserve, mid-best case, we survive with annoyances, worst case, we prolong this FDA bullshit for 3-5 years. Look this up, and donate what you can to support it. Matt from SMM made a video on it.

On the case of the Boreas, I mean, what is there to say? It's a fucking Boreas, it's always kicking ass.

 

[Topweasel]

Sounds to me like your not using enough wick if its leaking out of the JC...I dont have any issues with the Rings/Seals. You should be able to get replacements from your distributer...Subtanks Supply should have them also. There arent any great 30mm RTA's besides the Modfather...which Im reluctant to say that...Its not as great as it could be but many like it the way it is.

The finish is a Matte Black finish...its not a gloss black like other devices.

I said 30mm mainly because my device should be able to with very little overhang support up to 30mm. But honestly I doubt I want one. Just saying that I am cool with 18mm to 30mm as long as it is good at what it does. Along that line, I do decently powered 50w sub-hohm, 1 hohmish and high holm (1.5-2.0) all depending on where I am so. It's more like I want good (but reasonably priced) devices that do what they are meant to do well.

As for the JFC. I am not sure I explained what was happening. The only thing besides the glass that this leaks out of is the air vents. It only does this when unscrewing the top with the JFC completely closed. As I unscrew the top to refill, the the JCF doesn't prevent juice from getting to the base and the deck floods causing it to leak. It doesn't leak when the JFC is open which is all the rest of the time. Only when the wicks shouldn't be playing a part because juice shouldn't be getting to it.

 

[roxynoodle]

I said 30mm mainly because my device should be able to with very little overhang support up to 30mm. But honestly I doubt I want one. Just saying that I am cool with 18mm to 30mm as long as it is good at what it does. Along that line, I do decently powered 50w sub-hohm, 1 hohmish and high holm (1.5-2.0) all depending on where I am so. It's more like I want good (but reasonably priced) devices that do what they are meant to do well.

As for the JFC. I am not sure I explained what was happening. The only thing besides the glass that this leaks out of is the air vents. It only does this when unscrewing the top with the JFC completely closed. As I unscrew the top to refill, the the JCF doesn't prevent juice from getting to the base and the deck floods causing it to leak. It doesn't leak when the JFC is open which is all the rest of the time. Only when the wicks shouldn't be playing a part because juice shouldn't be getting to it.

What happened to your spare o rings that came in the box?

 

[roxynoodle]

Guess what? ECF has suspended me again What rule do you think I broke without even logging in? And why not just finish banning me already?

 

[fq06]

If it is leaking between the glass and base when you tighten up the top fill cap, you don't have the whole thing assembled tight enough. Go ahead and crank down on the top & bottom with the fill cap off.

Top fill doesn't matter if there is juce in the lower area or not, close airflow, remove top cap, fill. Put top cap on then flip upside down. While upside down, open airflow, give it a second or two. Flip right side up with airflow still open, vape

Or fill from the bottom if that still isn't working for you.

There is a good reference from roxy on the 1st page of this thread.

 

[fq06]

This is odd though, I don't see bubbles when top filling with the afc closed and some juice in the tank...

"Then I un screw the top to refill. As I unscrew the top, even with juiceflow off, as the vacuum is lost it I start seeing air pockets rise through the liquid. This the coil floods at this point causing some liquid to come out the air holes."

 

[Topweasel]

What happened to your spare o rings that came in the box?

Oh I still have them (lost a spare grub screw before I noticed they were in the bag). But they are so thin as it is I am probably going to swap out the one under the glass, and had to swap out the one on the top. I just wondered for safe keeping and thinking for the future that it might be nice if there was seal kit that could be purchased. I don't know how Augvape is over the long haul but things have been having a smaller and smaller shelf life (in sales I mean) so it just seems like good idea to get them sooner rather than later.

 

[DukeBlue]

I’m able to top fill mine with no leaking following the included instructions if you still get leaking it’s probably a bad oring somewhere. This may seem counterproductive with a top fill tank but I've been bottom filling. It’s just so much easier for me and you can get more juice in that way.

 

[Topweasel]

This is odd though, I don't see bubbles when top filling with the afc closed and some juice in the tank...

"Then I un screw the top to refill. As I unscrew the top, even with juiceflow off, as the vacuum is lost it I start seeing air pockets rise through the liquid. This the coil floods at this point causing some liquid to come out the air holes."

That is my point. The JFC is staying closed enough to keep juice from flowing into the base uptill the point it loses the vacuum and then boom leaks through the air flow.

As for the glass, the original seal latched on to the glass pretty well in the box. I think I may have deformed the seal. Only does it under the added pressure of the installing the top cap after refill and only a little bit. So I don't think about how tight the base and the fill port/chimney are. I'll keep and eye the next two refills to see if its from the same spot.

 

[Topweasel]

I’m able to top fill mine with no leaking following the included instructions if you still get leaking it’s probably a bad oring somewhere. This may seem counterproductive with a top fill tank but I've been bottom filling. It’s just so much easier for me and you can get more juice in that way.

The oring for the bottom of the glass probably. But air bubbles are coming from the juice flow area, so unless I am missing another possible leak area, it does seem to be implying that liquid is making it past the JF while closed.

 

[DP2Raja]

I fill from the bottom...you do not need to close the JFC/AFC. Just take the bottom cap off, fill, put it back on nice and snug, reconnect to your mod and vape away. I NEVER have a leak. Just my preference. One reason this works for me is that I need to remove the Boreas from my RX200 about every tank to wipe down the "steam" coating I get from the clouds hitting the top of the RX. I love that I have to do that...the damn big ass clouds leave a 'dew' on the top surface of the RX...this think is a killer vapor producer with flavor just flowing out of it. Excellent!

 

[roxynoodle]

Well, something is going on. I top fill everyday.

The o rings are all standard sizes.

 

[fq06]

That is my point. The JFC is staying closed enough to keep juice from flowing into the base uptill the point it loses the vacuum and then boom leaks through the air flow.

As for the glass, the original seal latched on to the glass pretty well in the box. I think I may have deformed the seal. Only does it under the added pressure of the installing the top cap after refill and only a little bit. So I don't think about how tight the base and the fill port/chimney are. I'll keep and eye the next two refills to see if its from the same spot.

If you are top filling with the afc closed, there is no vacuum, the caps off... is the afc closed all the way?
I think the issue is the afc is closed when you flip it unless I have read your posts wrong and you are openjng the afc once it is flipped upside down.

I really doubt you deformed the oring, if it isn't broke, it should seal fine.
Take the top cap off and tighten the top & bottom sections a little more. It will still tighten up 1/4 to1/2 turn after it feels like it has tightened up. I don't know if this helps you at all but it feels like around 50 ft/lb of torque to my calibrated hand

You can tighten this thing up very tight and it's still easy to unscrew, some tanks are a pain to get apart if you crank down on it.

 

[roxynoodle]

So far all leaking has been one of these:

* Not wicked correctly, or using wrong deck for build and juice
* Not assembled correctly
* Not filled correctly
* Bad o ring

Let's start by seeing a pic of your build, Topweasel.

 

[suprtrkr]

Oh I still have them (lost a spare grub screw before I noticed they were in the bag). But they are so thin as it is I am probably going to swap out the one under the glass, and had to swap out the one on the top. I just wondered for safe keeping and thinking for the future that it might be nice if there was seal kit that could be purchased. I don't know how Augvape is over the long haul but things have been having a smaller and smaller shelf life (in sales I mean) so it just seems like good idea to get them sooner rather than later.

Somewhere up above in this thread is a list of all the o-rings that go in it, and where they go. I'd be leery about changing them on a whim. They're usually designed to pretty tight tolerances. You might crack your glass.

 

[fq06]

Cracking that glass while tightening would take more power than what most of us possess in our hands. Pressure on the side of it, maybe not much but straight down on a cylindrical structure it should be able to deal with he-man tightening that sucker down.
I have tightened the holy shit out of mine like any other vacuum tank I have had to make sure it is all sealed up and I'm still on the first glass tank

I am not suggesting finding the strongest friend you have to grip it and rip it but I do suggest giving it a little more strength after you think it's tight and you will probably see another 1/4 turn.

 

[roxynoodle]

Well, we need to look at one issue at a time to problem solve this. Let's start with his build.

 

[fq06]

True, and how tight the assembly may or may not be might not have anything to do with the problem. I was just saying, don't be bashful with it and make sure it is tight and sealed.

 

[DP2Raja]

Pressure on the side of it, maybe not much but straight down on a cylindrical structure it should be able to deal with he-man tightening that sucker down.

That would assume the glass is in fact straight...if it is the slightest bit off or not seated properly, it might not hold up so well. The grooves are fairly shallow and if you don't watch it there might be a bit of an edge getting caught....Maybe? I dunno, mine just works perfect. I almost feel guilty when someone else is having issues....I'm like, issues? With the Boreas? But Roxy is right...step at a time.

 

[suprtrkr]

That would assume the glass is in fact straight...if it is the slightest bit off or not seated properly, it might not hold up so well. The grooves are fairly shallow and if you don't watch it there might be a bit of an edge getting caught....Maybe? I dunno, mine just works perfect. I almost feel guilty when someone else is having issues....I'm like, issues? With the Boreas? But Roxy is right...step at a time.

^^^ This. Assuming the ends are square, and the top and bottom shelves are as well, yes. Otherwise, not so much

 

[Steamhead]

I had a productive day

 

[JuicyLucy]

I had a productive day

View attachment 50392 View attachment 50393

Handsom little devil

 

[suprtrkr]

I had a productive day

View attachment 50392 View attachment 50393

So you did...

 

[fq06]

You two are close to walking the earth in bubble wrap to avoid injury lol

What glass tank have you received that's out of round? The base & top kind of self centers the glass, there isn't really a valley or grove to sit it in.

If it were out of round it would probably crack with 5 lbs of tightening force as that is becoming a side load. Assuming it is as close to round as just about every tanks glass sold... you can tighten it down without worrying about putting an eye out

I'm willing to bet my spare glass that all 200 lbs of me could (carefully) stand on it without it breaking... but that will be done after I get a 5ml drop kit or there is at least smoked standard size glass

Normally I would not derail a thread with how strong a cylindrical glass tube is but this thread has been derailed a million times already and tightening a tank up seemed to become a safety issue... also, I am bored

 

[inspects]

Link please.

@AlbyKortoona You can email Tom (Catfish) at the email address in his logo, he reorients just about any atty to become bottom fed....Good luck!
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/catfish-atty-mods-chapter-3.733995/

 

[AlbyKortoona]

Thank you.

 

[inspects]

Guess what? ECF has suspended me again What rule do you think I broke without even logging in? And why not just finish banning me already?

lmao.....

How was Petey's visit to the vet?....that is much more important.....

 

[ej1024]

THATS BAD ASS RYT DUR?!


VAPE ON

 

[roxynoodle]

lmao.....

How was Petey's visit to the vet?....that is much more important.....

Well, his gut bacteria is a little out of sorts due to hormones. But, I'm happy to report his bloodwork was good, his heart sounds good, and he handled things quite well. He does have to take an antibiotic though.

 

[roxynoodle]

Those are some sweet rx wraps, guys.

 

[inspects]

Well, his gut bacteria is a little out of sorts due to hormones. But, I'm happy to report his bloodwork was good, his heart sounds good, and he handled things quite well. He does have to take an antibiotic though.

Good to hear....!

 

[OneBadWolf]

I had a productive day

It looks like it. I love the little screamy-face on the RX.

 

[OneBadWolf]

Guess what? ECF has suspended me again What rule do you think I broke without even logging in? And why not just finish banning me already?

You know what you did. I don't blame them a bit under the circumstances.

 

[OneBadWolf]

Just messin with you. lololol

 

[roxynoodle]

Just messin with you. lololol

I think they are mental I did call them cowards here, but they just proved me right again by suspending me a second time, and again not notifying me.

So your guess is as good as mine. They did it because of my posts here? Or due to Merlin? I did tell SJ Merlin was coming out during the minimal discussion we had so it shouldn't have been a surprise to them.

 

[Azriel Mysterious]

I think this is the craziest Boreas Build Ive done yet...it may not look as insane as some of the others but its spec's DO NOT belong in a RTA....but damn its a fine vape and the Boreas is keeping up without a hiccup! Look at this sexy stuff right here, I admit I was pretty damn impressed with myself....and Im using some Native wicks Platinum Blend for wicking....They give you alot of cotton but I dont think its much better then Cotton Bacon V2, I would rate them about the same in color & cleanliness, absorbency, and flavor...

Alien Fraples 6 x .4R/26KA1/38N80 (6 wraps/3mm ID @ .08 Ohms)
Color shots of how they happened...I thinks its just sexy...

View attachment 50338 View attachment 50339 View attachment 50340 View attachment 50341 View attachment 50337

Woah!
Though you're speaking Greek to me with the "stats" ~.~
I need to learn this shit. I love tinkering ^.~ Fuck the Vapepocalypse! I'll fucking find a way damn it! (•̀ᴗ•́)

 

[JuicyLucy]

http://www.fda.gov/TobaccoProducts/GuidanceComplianceRegulatoryInformation/ucm281147.htm

Both Interesting and mind numbing reads here folks

 

[raymo2u]

Woah!
Though you're speaking Greek to me with the "stats" ~.~
I need to learn this shit. I love tinkering ^.~ Fuck the Vapepocalypse! I'll fucking find a way damn it! (•̀ᴗ•́)

Its just Wire Gauge and Wire Type, for example 26g Nichrome80: is 26N80. and KA1 is Kanthal A1, Ribbon wire is R

 

[OneBadWolf]

So your guess is as good as mine. They did it because of my posts here? Or due to Merlin?

Who knows. That place is fkd up like a home made radio. Very happy you are here though. I think you should be the VU Designer in Residence. Until you are driven mad by all the questions.

Then, you can be the VU Evil Designer in Residence. lolol

 

[roxynoodle]

Who knows. That place is fkd up like a home made radio. Very happy you are here though. I think you should be the VU Designer in Residence. Until you are driven mad by all the questions.

Then, you can be the VU Evil Designer in Residence. lolol

Do you mean until the FDA stops me? I figure at best I may get two more shots unless something major happens.

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

If we do have to go dark I'll be the Underground Vapors Electrical Engineer, Raymo can be the Coil Wizard and Programmer, Haley can be the Machinist, Lucy and NatGas can be the DIY juice makers and Roxy can be the designer.

 

[JuicyLucy]

If we do have to go dark I'll be the Underground Vapors Electrical Engineer, Raymo can be the Coil Wizard and Programmer, Haley can be the Machinist, Lucy and NatGas can be the DIY juice maker and Roxy can be the designer.

I was hoping to be the guy in a trench coat hucking this stuff in the alleyways of America, but I can settle for juicer.

 

[ej1024]

If we do have to go dark I'll be the Underground Vapors Electrical Engineer, Raymo can be the Coil Wizard and Programmer, Haley can be the Machinist, Lucy and NatGas can be the DIY juice makers and Roxy can be the designer.

What you think of the sig213?

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

I'm 6'5, 252 pounds. If we need a trenchcoater, find me an XXL and some cargo pants and I can carry an entire B&M.

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

What you think of the sig213?

A load of bullshit that couldn't do 190W, let alone 213W. Dual 18650 mods cannot surpass around 175W safely without things like PWM, which is not the same as direct wattage. It's also got a firing button designed for left handed people and in my opinion is ugly as sin. But if you plan on staying under 150W, don't mind the button placement and looks, it has some decent features.

 

[ej1024]

A load of bullshit that couldn't do 190W, let alone 213W. Dual 18650 mods cannot surpass around 175W safely without things like PWM, which is not the same as direct wattage. It's also got a firing button designed for left handed people and in my opinion is ugly as sin. But if you plan on staying under 150W, don't mind the button placement and looks, it has some decent features.

How much do you think it's worth?