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The Official #HandCheck Thread

Tornadoalleydeb

Tornadoalleydeb

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nadalama said:
I've sure used them on the positive ends of batteries in tubes. But I've also had tubes that needed button-top batteries in order for everything to make contact properly. Would a button-top battery work and be safer?
Click to expand...
Yes a button top would be safer oh hey, they used to make those things that you could put on flat top batteries to make them button tops. Used to have some for one of my Provari's years ago. Don't have them anymore but I wonder if they still sell those
 
Tornadoalleydeb

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gsmit1 said:
You mean as a contact spacer. Oh, I don't know. Definitely not on the positive end of a battery and I'd probably have to see it to determine whether it was something I'd do myself without ever publicly recommending it to anybody else.

I don't know everything, but I'm generally inclined against stuff like this. Maybe start a thread and post some detailed pics of where you want to put them.
Click to expand...
I meant for taking up the small amount of slack. Damn mod was made so that the 21700 batteries are just a hair loose. Someone said put a oring around the battery. I mean that might stop the rattling but I don't think that would help with it making a better contact. Doesn't hurt to try it though. Meh, I had put the mod back in it's box so I may as well put it right back as it drives me nuts how it keeps shutting off. Not all of them do it. Mine just happens to be one of the ones that does.
 
nadalama

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debinnv said:
I meant for taking up the small amount of slack. Damn mod was made so that the 21700 batteries are just a hair loose. Someone said put a oring around the battery. I mean that might stop the rattling but I don't think that would help with it making a better contact. Doesn't hurt to try it though. Meh, I had put the mod back in it's box so I may as well put it right back as it drives me nuts how it keeps shutting off. Not all of them do it. Mine just happens to be one of the ones that does.
Click to expand...

What brand of 21700 are you using? If you have an Aspire 21700 and you aren't currently using it in this device, try it. The Aspires are the longest ones I've found.
 
Tornadoalleydeb

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nadalama said:
What brand of 21700 are you using? If you have an Aspire 21700 and you aren't currently using it in this device, try it. The Aspires are the longest ones I've found.
Click to expand...
I have several. Golisi, samsung, mollicel etc
 
Tornadoalleydeb

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nadalama said:
I'm trying to find a chart with dimensions. I know there's one out there. Still looking.
Click to expand...
I think Golisi are the longest but I still have some issues with those. It's okay hon don't go to all that trouble. I will figure something out. I have a spare Hadron door and I may be able to do something with those contact nubs that are on it
 
Tornadoalleydeb

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You know what? It's back in it's box. It's simply not worth the hassle but thank you so much for looking for me. I mean I liked it as it has the sqonk part to it but hell, I have a lot of squonk mods I sure don't need the frustration of this one
 
marter

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debinnv said:
You know what? It's back in it's box. It's simply not worth the hassle but thank you so much for looking for me. I mean I liked it as it has the sqonk part to it but hell, I have a lot of squonk mods I sure don't need the frustration of this one
Click to expand...
@debinnv I don't know if this will help but IMR is carrying a Samsung 30T with a button top. It's put on by a 3rd party but I would think the fact that they're carrying it says a lot. Here's a link https://www.imrbatteries.com/samsung-30t-21700-3000mah-35a-battery-button-top/

As far as rare earth magnets, I'm using one on a Deathwish Modz Goat stack mech. They supply these in the mod kit. I can't recommend anything in terms of your solution, I'm just saying that Deathwish Modz includes them to use with 30Ts since they won't make contact positive to negative without something bridging that gap. Normal stack spacers like you showed earlier in the thread are too thick.
 
Tornadoalleydeb

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marter said:
@debinnv I don't know if this will help but IMR is carrying a Samsung 30T with a button top. It's put on by a 3rd party but I would think the fact that they're carrying it says a lot. Here's a link https://www.imrbatteries.com/samsung-30t-21700-3000mah-35a-battery-button-top/

As far as rare earth magnets, I'm using one on a Deathwish Modz Goat stack mech. They supply these in the mod kit. I can't recommend anything in terms of your solution, I'm just saying that Deathwish Modz includes them to use with 30Ts since they won't make contact positive to negative without something bridging that gap. Normal stack spacers like you showed earlier in the thread are too thick.
Click to expand...
Thanks so much but ya, it's put away and it's gonna stay that way. I have plenty of other nice squonk mods. :) Only thing was it holds a 35mm ya well so does my Drone and that one is a hell of a lot nicer. :) Appreciate you showing me this though.
 
gadget!

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debinnv said:
I read years ago that it could be dangerous to use but I have used them before. These are real thin and will solve the issue
Click to expand...
nadalama said:
I've sure used them on the positive ends of batteries in tubes. But I've also had tubes that needed button-top batteries in order for everything to make contact properly. Would a button-top battery work and be safer?
Click to expand...
debinnv said:
Yes a button top would be safer oh hey, they used to make those things that you could put on flat top batteries to make them button tops. Used to have some for one of my Provari's years ago. Don't have them anymore but I wonder if they still sell those
Click to expand...
I would strongly advise against using a spacer or a button top battery in a mech tube. You could very easily end up shorting out the battery.
If you do, don't put it in the 510 end of the tube.

You should be ok if you use it on the negative side of the battery in the bottom of the tube only.

Sent from a Galaxy far far away
 
Last edited:
gadget!

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Black gold
1896f7fdb888c20b147388fa95b79354.jpg


Sent from a Galaxy far far away
 
dubya314

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gsmit1 said:
The return of the Xeta :)

How did it go with that black gasket?
Click to expand...
I have 5 boros set up and running. All five have Xeta's in it. Just had to find my thing, hands down my current favorite RBA. Was a tiny simple fix as well :)
Piece of cake on the gasket, cuz it's and Ultem and not a clear. Working on two clears, having all the fits in the world :mad:
 
Theboss

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dubya314 said:
I have 5 boros set up and running. All five have Xeta's in it. Just had to find my thing, hands down my current favorite RBA. Was a tiny simple fix as well :)
Piece of cake on the gasket, cuz it's and Ultem and not a clear. Working on two clears, having all the fits in the world :mad:
Click to expand...
Thought of you when I saw this Xeta and nice caps

ecigarettes.ca

***Pre-owned*** Haku Xeta RBA / Xeta Love4loren Capset

Includes everthing in picture. Condition 9.5/10
ecigarettes.ca ecigarettes.ca
 
gsmit1

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dubya314 said:
There is a guy here has a blue one. Not sure if it was just the cap or the whole thing. Looked awesome, but he said it had trouble with conductivity :confused:
Click to expand...
I just ten seconds ago addressed that very thing. :) With a non metal cap the contact point is reduced to only where the chimney meets the top of the positive post. If the chamber cap is too tall it won't let them touch.

Just sand it down a hair and problem solved.
 
dubya314

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gsmit1 said:
I just ten seconds ago addressed that very thing. :) With a non metal cap the contact point is reduced to only where the chimney meets the top of the positive post. If the chamber cap is too tall it won't let them touch.

Just sand it down a hair and problem solved.
Click to expand...
The blue one I am talking about is @VaporGroh . I think his is all metal, but was saying the type of metal it is is what's giving him problems?
 
Tornadoalleydeb

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Thanks an
gadget! said:
I would strongly advise against using a spacer or a button top battery in a mech tube. You could very easily end up shorting out the battery.
If you do, don't put it in the 510 end of the tube.

You should be ok if you use it on the negative side of the battery in the bottom of the tube only.

Sent from a Galaxy far far away
Click to expand...
Thanks, and no no, I would NEVER do that with a mech mod.
 
~Don~

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dubya314 said:
The blue one I am talking about is @VaporGroh . I think his is all metal, but was saying the type of metal it is is what's giving him problems?
Click to expand...

It’s the metal base used in conjunction with the coating type.

If the base is titanium, it’s already at a huge disadvantage being on of the worst conductive materials.

If it’s cast, could be anything really, especially coming from China.

Then taking the color coating, they coat everything, top side bottom side of the clamps; why on RDAs that didn’t perform for me I removed the coating on the clamps and 510 threads to see if this improve conductivity... and in most cases it did.

Let’s say they used PVD, that’s a long lasting coating... but also pretty bad at conductivity, right about where Tin is.

Cerakote... yup horrible.

Coated contacts/parts are done for the corrosion factor pretty much always... never for the conductivity aspect.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
gsmit1

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debinnv said:
Damn, that is just beautiful! Makes me want to go grab a copper Asgard. Seems like I get a funny taste from copper though. But if the deck is stainless, might be okay.
Click to expand...
Myvpro still has SOME. Better hurry :D

For whatever reason, I do not taste copper or brass at all. Even on atties like the og Goon 24 where everything except the posts is copper.
 
VaporGroh

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~Don~ said:
It’s the metal base used in conjunction with the coating type.

If the base is titanium, it’s already at a huge disadvantage being on of the worst conductive materials.

If it’s cast, could be anything really, especially coming from China.

Then taking the color coating, they coat everything, top side bottom side of the clamps; why on RDAs that didn’t perform for me I removed the coating on the clamps and 510 threads to see if this improve conductivity... and in most cases it did.

Let’s say they used PVD, that’s a long lasting coating... but also pretty bad at conductivity, right about where Tin is.

Cerakote... yup horrible.

Coated contacts/parts are done for the corrosion factor pretty much always... never for the conductivity aspect.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

It is a genuine Blue Titanium Haku Xeta. The coating is an anodizing. And Don is correct in that they put a nice heavy coating on just about everything except the positive pin at the base which was anodized gold.

Although the unit works fine in wattage mode the electrical resistance was not stable enough for the DNA60 to recognize SS316L as a temp control material and kept turning off temp control mode. Removing the anodizing on the bottom of the clamps and in the threaded areas of the unit has helped but it is still a little flaky for TC.

1602004383480.jpeg
 
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