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Updates on the IPV4????
- Thread starter CTFX
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No need at this point.. I kinda like the stainless look...and the black taco shell, lol
But thanks for the link, just in case.. Lol
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CTFX
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Yeah and it's 6 dollars cheaper with the ipv4. Great job I'm definitely grabbing a star wars one
Mine should be here tomorrow.
Regarding batteries, I have tons I can't use, not married, and three pairs of married HE2's for my iPV3. My reading, and logic in my head seems to lead to marrying batteries is just that, and you can use married pairs in different devices. I always swap sleds in my charger and my iPV3, and use a multimeter to check them pre and post charge. I just can't find too much on this subject. What little I found says basically keep the batteries paired always, but they aren't paired to a device, as long as you charge and use them as you would together with one mod. That makes the most sense to me, based off of why we marry batteries in the first place. I figured I'd ask around here, though. @smacksy I know you have multiple iPV's, what do you do? I'm hoping not to have to buy more batteries, but will if necessary.
Regarding batteries, I have tons I can't use, not married, and three pairs of married HE2's for my iPV3. My reading, and logic in my head seems to lead to marrying batteries is just that, and you can use married pairs in different devices. I always swap sleds in my charger and my iPV3, and use a multimeter to check them pre and post charge. I just can't find too much on this subject. What little I found says basically keep the batteries paired always, but they aren't paired to a device, as long as you charge and use them as you would together with one mod. That makes the most sense to me, based off of why we marry batteries in the first place. I figured I'd ask around here, though. @smacksy I know you have multiple iPV's, what do you do? I'm hoping not to have to buy more batteries, but will if necessary.
st0nedpenguin
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Yeah and it's 6 dollars cheaper with the ipv4. Great job I'm definitely grabbing a star wars one
Subtract $6 because there's barely anything for the wrap to cover due to the plastic clamshell lol.
CTFX
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Always pair batteries. You don't want to use 2 different types because each one is specific to that said battery. If you use 2 different ones you can risk a lot of different problems. You'll have 2 different batteries pulsing at different intervals....I would personally not risk that. But as all devices and batteries say....USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!
I do basically what you do...I marry a pair of brand new batts of the same maker, etc but I don't necessarily marry them to the mod.... I charge the married batts together and use them in different mods together...always like A-A, B-B, C-C etc...seems to work OK so far...
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I wasn't clear. I understand all of that regarding married pairs, and the many reasons it is done. I have three pairs that are fairly new, that have all been married and labeled in pairs, used in pairs, and charged in pairs, always swapping sleds each change, too. I would never throw in random batteries. I label all my batteries, I wouldn't even throw 2 HE2's I received the same day in. I'm very diligent about battery safety, and have a good grasp of it.
I am simply wondering, essentially are paired batteries also only able to be used with one device. Or, can you keep the batteries paired in all the normal ways, but use said pairs in two devices. Obviously they will always be used and fully charged together, as always.
So yeah, not talking about random batteries. My reading seems to say the batteries being paired and treated accordingly is what matters, and using them in more than one dual battery device, as pairs, is fine. Hopefully that makes more sense.
Thank you. This is what I meant if my first post was unclear, and it also is what the little info I could find on the subject suggests. My paired ones are labeled iPV3 1-A 1-B, iPV3 2-A and 2-B, and iPV3 3-A, and 3-B. The cases for each pair are labeled, too, as well as the purchase date on the batteries and their cases.
I was planning on doing what you do @smacksy it makes sense, since the reason batteries are paired is about keeping equal chemistry between the two, which is important for many reasons. Thanks!
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Exactly what I meant. I get wordy sometimes, a lot, actually. I think my question was lost in my first post. You and @smacksy just answered exactly what I was asking. It makes sense, but I still ask when it concerns something as serious as battery safety.
I wish I could use unpaired batteries, I bought my Mini 2 pretty much just to keep all my 18650's in rotation, since I don't use my mechs as much, now. I have 8 healthy HE2's and 3 VTC5's, then 6 HE2's in married pairs. Those 11 singles all labeled and dated, too, were not getting enough use. I know better than to even use two HE2's from the same date together.
Thanks guys! I probably won't be in need of new batteries for a bit.
I was tempted to try these, but I have heard they have issues with Nitecore chargers, at least for some people. When Sony's disappeared, I got some LG's, they vape comparable to my Sony's, so I stocked up. 20 Amps is plenty for me with headroom, too.
At least with mechs and battery rattle adjustments, I like having one type of battery. It limits the fiddling around with contacts and what not. Just swap em, and you're good. I hate fucking with top caps when I change battery types on mechs. It's a pain in the ass.
I still need some Ni200, I'll probably pick up a couple gauges in 10 foot "spools" from my B&M first. Cost is higher, but it wanna know what I like before ordering a spool or two.
Now iPV4, I command you to arrive in Denver soon, and my door tomorrow! Lol
st0nedpenguin
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I've been using Samsungs since the 20R blew everything out of the water, I love them.
st0nedpenguin
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I have some 26ga and 28ga on the way, I refuse to go any thicker than 28ga.
CTFX
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Exactly!
That's what I was planning on getting, and agreed about no higher than 30ga. I started with 30g on my Kayfuns for the longest time, and 28g was revolutionary, so much easier to work with. Now I use mostly 26g, so I figured I'd go the same with Nickel. I need to read up more on Ni200 coiling, and I'll probably get a sub ohm tank at this point. Subtank and the Atlantis are the only tanks with Ni200 heads available, correct? I also know there's another tank that takes Atlantis heads, don't remember which one. I've wanted one for a while, now I have a good excuse to get one.
First build will be in a Mutation V3. I usually dual coil to .45 ish, I know Ni200 has very low resistance, so I'm gonna have to play around. Duals or not? Diameter, wraps, new fun. I'm just pumped, assuming I like the TC, to get rid of dry hits. Sounds like goodness to me.
My IPV4 from wakeandvape has departed Los Angeles, tracking is saying expected delivery date as Saturday, but hoping to get it Friday, quite often my packages are a day earlier than what the tracking says, got a brand new pair of sammies waiting for it
CTFX
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With the low resistances with nickel honestly doing one coil will sub ohm you down very low. If you wanna dual coil it your talking super sub ohm...the realm where experts fuck with. I'm not one of them....so I stick to single coil.That's what I was planning on getting, and agreed about no higher than 30ga. I started with 30g on my Kayfuns for the longest time, and 28g was revolutionary, so much easier to work with. Now I use mostly 26g, so I figured I'd go the same with Nickel. I need to read up more on Ni200 coiling, and I'll probably get a sub ohm tank at this point. Subtank and the Atlantis are the only tanks with Ni200 heads available, correct? I also know there's another tank that takes Atlantis heads, don't remember which one. I've wanted one for a while, now I have a good excuse to get one.
First build will be in a Mutation V3. I usually dual coil to .45 ish, I know Ni200 has very low resistance, so I'm gonna have to play around. Duals or not? Diameter, wraps, new fun. I'm just pumped, assuming I like the TC, to get rid of dry hits. Sounds like goodness to me.
That's what I was planning on getting, and agreed about no higher than 30ga. I started with 30g on my Kayfuns for the longest time, and 28g was revolutionary, so much easier to work with. Now I use mostly 26g, so I figured I'd go the same with Nickel. I need to read up more on Ni200 coiling, and I'll probably get a sub ohm tank at this point. Subtank and the Atlantis are the only tanks with Ni200 heads available, correct? I also know there's another tank that takes Atlantis heads, don't remember which one. I've wanted one for a while, now I have a good excuse to get one.
First build will be in a Mutation V3. I usually dual coil to .45 ish, I know Ni200 has very low resistance, so I'm gonna have to play around. Duals or not? Diameter, wraps, new fun. I'm just pumped, assuming I like the TC, to get rid of dry hits. Sounds like goodness to me.
Dual coil is not generally recommended, for two reasons:
- It impacts on the temperature sensing. You'd need to try and ensure both coils are as close to identical as possible.
- That said, some people do use dual coils and it works - but you might find you need to adjust the temp to a different range that might otherwise be expected.
- It can be hard to get within the resistance range. The lowest on the IPV4 is 0.08 I think, so that means you need two coils of 0.16.
- But with 28G Ni200 @ 2.5mm diameter, 0.16 resistance requires 13 wraps - so do you have an atty that can fit two 13 wrap spaced coils in it?
- I emphasise spaced because, as you probably know, Temp Sensing coils must be spaced and therefore even longer than the wraps suggests.
- With TC, no coils should be touching, so not like standard micro coils. That greatly affects the temp sensing.
- They can be very nearly touching, but still the coil is going to be longer than you'd expect with a Kanthal micro-coil.
- At 30G, it's much more viable - thinner wire, and only 8 wraps required per coil (16 total)
- But as you've found, 30G is much harder to work with - doubly so with Nickel because it's so damn soft. (There is Hard Finish Ni200 available for sale which helps a bit.)
- For example, it will just break every time you try and screw down on it in a post-hole. Under-screw fixing is really the only reliable way.
- But with 28G Ni200 @ 2.5mm diameter, 0.16 resistance requires 13 wraps - so do you have an atty that can fit two 13 wrap spaced coils in it?
With regard to the annoying Ni200 wire, there's another option - twisted. Either two strands of Ni200 twisted together, which helps a lot. Or even, a strand of Ni200 twisted with a strand of Kanthal. That still works for TC because the power follows the path of least resistance, which is the Ni200.
In both cases you do need to adjust the temperature you use, as the twisting affects the resistance.
There's lots of videos on Youtube regarding twisted wire in general, and some regarding twisted Ni200/Ni200+Kanthal wire specifically.
The super sub ohm stuff doesn't really apply so much with Nickel.
Firstly because we're talking regulated devices, so the general concerns of sub ohming (ohms law, battery safety), do not apply - as long as you keep within the minimum ohms of the device, it's fine.
And secondly, and most importantly, because the base resistance of a Ni200 coil is mostly meaningless. It might start at 0.10 or 0.08 or whatever, but as soon as it heats up - ie when you're actually vaping - it's actually at 0.5 or even 1.0. It's that massive resistance jump (in a linear/predictable way) that makes TC work.
You can see this yourself if you put a Ni200 coil on a non-TC mod (or in the non-TC mode.) It'll read 0.10 to start with, then you fire it once and now the resistance will read much, much higher - like 0.5. Until it cools down again.
That's why we have to Set Resistance on the Yihi's - that's telling the chip "I verify that the coil is currently cold and therefore this is its base resistance."
That drove me crazy the first time I was experimenting with a Ni200 build, because I'd both forgotten about that resistance jump, and was building on a new RDA clone which had some janky screws. I was in power mode on my VF clone because I wanted to pulse the coil to test it. I put the coil in, pulsed it; it seemed to be fine, but now the resistance was up to 0.6! WTF? Damn it, my wires must have come loose from under those crappy screws. Tighten, tighten, OK now the resistance is fine again (the coil had cooled..) Fire again.. WTF???
Repeat that three times until the last time, I got distracted and didn't touch anything for a couple of minutes. Then when I looked again and the resistance had once again gone back down, I suddenly re-remembered that yes that's entirely expected with Ni200 and it wasn't the RDA at all
@CTFX and @TheBloke thanks for those good posts. I figured duals would be nearly impossible. .08 is already crazy low. The extra wraps and no contact coil would be way too huge, unless you built pretty much a short. .08 makes me uncomfortable, but I just have to realize it's very different from just Kanthal and Watts.
I had read that contact coils are possible but really difficult. I'm no coiler with the skills of making a beauty every time, but I get them working well always. With what I gather of Ni200 I don't even plan on trying contact coils. I might take some 28g kanthal here in a bit on my unbuilt mutation, see how many wraps around 3mm it fits. Might as well check the Magma, too. I can't imagine TC is doable with a Kayfun, too low of resistance, and you'd need at least 30g. Gotta google some stuff and watch some you tube. I've learned so much since this forum has been around. It coincided with me starting into mechs, and I already had been building Kayfuns. I like learning this stuff, I hope TC works for my style.
I had read that contact coils are possible but really difficult. I'm no coiler with the skills of making a beauty every time, but I get them working well always. With what I gather of Ni200 I don't even plan on trying contact coils. I might take some 28g kanthal here in a bit on my unbuilt mutation, see how many wraps around 3mm it fits. Might as well check the Magma, too. I can't imagine TC is doable with a Kayfun, too low of resistance, and you'd need at least 30g. Gotta google some stuff and watch some you tube. I've learned so much since this forum has been around. It coincided with me starting into mechs, and I already had been building Kayfuns. I like learning this stuff, I hope TC works for my style.
You mean thinner then 28g or thicker then 26g?
I read that twisting nickel and reg wire works on temp and let's you bring up ohms for duals
If I can't get a single coil build I like, I'll try that for sure. I'm very interested in how this will work with different attys, and builds.
You get yours yet?
CTFX
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I'm interested with smaller atty's using ni200. How many wraps would that entail?
Super fucking informative! Lol wow you explained that really well and should be stickied somewhere in an important section for all to see
My pleasure!
I don't have a KF personally, but I understand it works fine - I know Phil Busardo of YouTube uses KayFun's almost exclusively, including with TC.
One thing that you'll find with RTAs is that you often need a very different temperature setting than you'd expect, and than you need with RDAs.
So for an RDA you will likely find 420 - 450 is a good range. But Busardo reports with Kayfun's and Squapes (both big-metal RTAs) that he finds about 280 is good. And when he used his temperature-detecting camera on a Kayfun build set to 280, the coil actually reached 450+ F.
So it seems likely that the extra metal involved in getting the power through an RTA like the Kayfun affects the accuracy of the temperature sensing (which is done by detecting changes in resistance ,which of course is affected by the resistance of all the metal between mod and coil.)
It still works, but you have to make adjustments. With my new Lemo 2, on the IPV4, I am finding that a setting of 400 is working well for me.
One thing to realise is that the technology is in its infancy, and is not yet plug and play. It's temperature "guessing", Busardo says. It's a bit more than that obviously, but it's far from accurate.
If you haven't already, I highly recommend watching pbusardo's Yihi SX Mini M videos (two of them.) It's almost exclusively about the temperature control of that mod, of which 99% applies directly to the IPV4 which has a slightly lesser version of the same chip. Only difference I'm aware of thus far, between the 350J chip in the SX Mini M and the 330J in the IPV4, is that the IPV4 chip doesn't show the live temperature - only the configured temperature. Unfortunately that makes it harder to do the adjustments I just described, because you can't see what the mod thinks the temperature is. So you just have to do it by "how does this vape feel - too strong or too weak?" Which is still easy enough.
It works very well and is very useful! EDIT: But not for bringing up the ohms. The ohms of the Kanthal is ignored, the electricity only follows the Nickel.
There are two good reasons to do it:
- You can get much thicker wire with a greater surface area, for improved flavour (the same primary that people do twisted Kanthal builds)
- It makes the wire much easier to handle and less likely to break, because Ni200 is so soft and fragile and because we always have to use fairly thin Ni200 wires because the thicker wires give such tiny resistance that it's hard to build a coil within the resistance limits of the device.
Well firstly when I did it, I didn't know that it wasn't recommended
However, so far as I can see there's no real reason not to - I mean, pumping 20W into it for a second or two doesn't seem all that different to what the mod itself is doing.
That said, I haven't done it recently, simply because I tried without a couple of times and it seemed fine. Maybe spaced coils, or even Ni200 itself, are less susceptible to hot spots versus Kanthal micro-coils.
But to be honest I'm not completely clear myself. I am pretty sure though that there's no harm in doing so, as long as you keep the watts low and the pulse brief. Maybe the reason it's not recommended is that Ni200 can have some nasties at too high temperatures - I've heard that before I seem to remember. But when pulsing we're not inhaling, so I don't see it as a massive issue.
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Yeah, I think the Mutations will be fine, I could see the Magma being too small, and wanting to touch the cap and short. I hate my Igo W, and that's definitely gonna be too small.
26650 attys look nice on iPV3's, I wonder how they'll look on a 4. Will find out tomorrow.
I was wondering how to check hot spots with no pulse. You're probably right in that the nature of the wire at least lessens the chance of hot spots. I'll watch those videos, too. Not the biggest Busardo fan, but I can fast forwardMy pleasure!
I don't have a KF personally, but I understand it works fine - I know Phil Busardo of YouTube uses KayFun's almost exclusively, including with TC.
One thing that you'll find with RTAs is that you often need a very different temperature setting than you'd expect, and than you need with RDAs.
So for an RDA you will likely find 420 - 450 is a good range. But Busardo reports with Kayfun's and Squapes (both big-metal RTAs) that he finds about 280 is good. And when he used his temperature-detecting camera on a Kayfun build set to 280, the coil actually reached 450+ F.
So it seems likely that the extra metal involved in getting the power through an RTA like the Kayfun affects the accuracy of the temperature sensing (which is done by detecting changes in resistance ,which of course is affected by the resistance of all the metal between mod and coil.)
It still works, but you have to make adjustments. With my new Lemo 2, on the IPV4, I am finding that a setting of 400 is working well for me.
One thing to realise is that the technology is in its infancy, and is not yet plug and play. It's temperature "guessing", Busardo says. It's a bit more than that obviously, but it's far from accurate.
If you haven't already, I highly recommend watching pbusardo's Yihi SX Mini M videos (two of them.) It's almost exclusively about the temperature control of that mod, of which 99% applies directly to the IPV4 which has a slightly lesser version of the same chip. Only difference I'm aware of thus far, between the 350J chip in the SX Mini M and the 330J in the IPV4, is that the IPV4 chip doesn't show the live temperature - only the configured temperature. Unfortunately that makes it harder to do the adjustments I just described, because you can't see what the mod thinks the temperature is. So you just have to do it by "how does this vape feel - too strong or too weak?" Which is still easy enough.
It works very well and is very useful!
Well firstly when I did it, I didn't know that it wasn't recommended
However, so far as I can see there's no real reason not to - I mean, pumping 20W into it for a second or two doesn't seem all that different to what the mod itself is doing.
That said, I haven't done it recently, simply because I tried without a couple of times and it seemed fine. Maybe spaced coils, or even Ni200 itself, are less susceptible to hot spots versus Kanthal micro-coils.
But to be honest I'm not completely clear myself. I am pretty sure though that there's no harm in doing so, as long as you keep the watts low and the pulse brief. Maybe the reason it's not recommended is that Ni200 can have some nasties at too high temperatures - I've heard that before I seem to remember. But when pulsing we're not inhaling, so I don't see it as a massive issue.
Regarding Kayfuns, if I build em right, with the right juice, I can max get 30 Watts before dry hits start up. Usually I'd just use 20-25. RDA's are my friends since my iPV3 came around. Kayfuns have a small chimney area, so that's why 20-25 watts is fairly warm, and they don't have enough airflow, mouth to lung hit. It makes sense that they would need lower TC settings. I have 6 in need of cleaning and building. My RDA's, RTAs, and iPV4 should make for a fun and busy weekend of tinkering.
Oh and to add, regarding Kayfuns - I said earlier that people use them a lot. That's true, but all the people I've heard of using them are doing so with the Kayfun Spring Update.
This third party accessory gives a much better, more conductive and stable spring to the Kayfun. Stability is vital for reliable TC builds.
As another example of that - the Lemo 1 has often been found to be unusable for TC at first. This is because the 510 pin doesn't make a very good connection. That isn't very noticeable in Kanthal mode - where it doesn't much matter if the resistance is 0.80 one minute and 0.85 the next. But with Nickel that makes all the difference in the world - the difference between a good vape, and it just not firing at all because it thinks it's too hot.
The fix for the Lemo 1 is to unscrew the 510 pin and put in back in with a tiny o-ring under it. That extends it out just enough to make a firm connection and give good TC.
This is yet another example of how TC is in its infancy and we're still just learning the ramifications - no doubt there are other devices out there that don't work so well with it, but could with small modifications.
This third party accessory gives a much better, more conductive and stable spring to the Kayfun. Stability is vital for reliable TC builds.
As another example of that - the Lemo 1 has often been found to be unusable for TC at first. This is because the 510 pin doesn't make a very good connection. That isn't very noticeable in Kanthal mode - where it doesn't much matter if the resistance is 0.80 one minute and 0.85 the next. But with Nickel that makes all the difference in the world - the difference between a good vape, and it just not firing at all because it thinks it's too hot.
The fix for the Lemo 1 is to unscrew the 510 pin and put in back in with a tiny o-ring under it. That extends it out just enough to make a firm connection and give good TC.
This is yet another example of how TC is in its infancy and we're still just learning the ramifications - no doubt there are other devices out there that don't work so well with it, but could with small modifications.
Yeah, I actually have no new school Kayfun 4's, so I have no spring to work with thankfully. A couple are finicky, though.
Still waiting on mine last I checked it was still in Cali hopefully it changes tonight to some place close like Boston or even Springfield.
Didn't know that Bloke. New to this temp shit. Lol. Think I'm going to grab some nick 30 or 32 if they have it and twist with 32 reg to get something around .4 which is what I like to vape at
CTFX
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Mine still has shipment label created as of this morning in Paramount cali. Hope that will change early tomorrow morning.
Dual coils are quite easy. Below is a picture of my .076 ohm build on my Mutation v3 that was my first ever nickel coil. It is 12 wraps per coil. To get the same resistance with a single coil I would be doing a 6 wrap coil which in nickel can be somewhat tricky without enough wraps to shape and hold the shape. Wrapping the coil is done with a Kuro 3mm coil tool. I wrap the coil super tight on the Kuro then spread it which allow my wraps to be very close to one another without touching.
I am finding that tc mode on the IPV4 is super easy to build for and use. I just built a .076 ohm dual coil on my Dark Horse and it was easy to build and run on the IPV4 as well.
Good stuff, @Wooglin !
But you say "to get the same resistance [0.076] with a single coil" would require too few wraps - as if you're aiming for that resistance specifically?
Is there a reason for that? You've noticed a difference if the starting resistance is 0.07 versus 0.15 or 0.20 or whatever?
All my builds tend to be 0.13 - 0.15 at the moment, that's with 28G Ni200, usually around 12-13 wraps. I've yet to get around to making any twisted Ni200 wire - hopefully this weekend if not before.
But you say "to get the same resistance [0.076] with a single coil" would require too few wraps - as if you're aiming for that resistance specifically?
Is there a reason for that? You've noticed a difference if the starting resistance is 0.07 versus 0.15 or 0.20 or whatever?
All my builds tend to be 0.13 - 0.15 at the moment, that's with 28G Ni200, usually around 12-13 wraps. I've yet to get around to making any twisted Ni200 wire - hopefully this weekend if not before.
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Do you use single or dual with your nickel builds?
Since I'll be using the same atty, this is good to see, and expected. I thought the MutationX V3 would fit a lot of wraps. Nice looking build. Maybe my Coil Master will help with uniformity. I actually prefer a drill bit for kanthal.Dual coils are quite easy. Below is a picture of my .076 ohm build on my Mutation v3 that was my first ever nickel coil. It is 12 wraps per coil. To get the same resistance with a single coil I would be doing a 6 wrap coil which in nickel can be somewhat tricky without enough wraps to shape and hold the shape. Wrapping the coil is done with a Kuro 3mm coil tool. I wrap the coil super tight on the Kuro then spread it which allow my wraps to be very close to one another without touching.
I am finding that tc mode on the IPV4 is super easy to build for and use. I just built a .076 ohm dual coil on my Dark Horse and it was easy to build and run on the IPV4 as well.
Single exclusively thus far.
I'm going to try some duals once I have my twisted wire. Not that I couldn't right now, but I get enough problems with broken wire and difficulty managing the Ni200 with single coil that I haven't wanted to magnify that with dual.
When I do dual I'm going to be quite OCD about making the coils precisely identical (quite possibly unnecessarily so!) and I figure that'll be easier with thicker wire.
Yes I am aiming for .07 P4Y recommends a resistance of .05 to .1 ohms and I have found this particular chip runs better at the lower end of the resistance range.
On a side note at .076 the IPV4 fires at 3 volts which equals an output of 120 watts. Thats right 120 watts, which means this unit already fires at 120 watts in TC Mode. It is topped out at 3 volts and will not go any higher even if you build lower than .08 so this would seem to indicate if Ohms law is not being violated (not possible is it?) that it will fire all the way up to 180 watts.
I am going to validate that it really is outputting 3volts when I go to work tomorrow (my multimeter can only handle 10amps and this thing is pushing 40+ amps at .076
Added:
Thanks Bloke for the compliment on the build, I am OCD but have to throw that out when building coils. When I first started building them just a month ago I build about 50 Kanthal coils before I actually used one and that was when I realized I had to throw the OCD out the door. I love TC mode it is quite forgiving as long as you don't let the wraps touch when using a spaced coil. I use a jewelers loop to check each coil after mounting and wicking to make sure there are no coil shorts and adjust as needed.
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Wow OK, interesting, thanks! I shall have to try some much lower resistances.
So that also means the lower limit of 0.08 is wrong then, obviously! Actually now I think about it maybe I heard that in the context of the SX Mini M, not IPV4 with its 330. Though that'd be very interesting to find the lesser chip in the lesser device had a better range than the flagship chip/device!
Regarding the volts - yes I would definitely check that output. Certainly not unknown for the display values to be out. Also the resistance, maybe it says 0.076 and it's actually slightly higher?
Have you also validated ohms with your DMM? (And if so, please tell me how you get a super accurate ohms reading from your DMM because I can't seem to get closer than to within .1 or .2 with mine! It does two decimal place ohms but even when shorting the leads to subtract their inherent resistance from the reading, the figure jumps about within a .10 range. Though maybe you have a far superior DMM to mine - mine is a 22,000 count, the UNI-T UT61E for which I paid $60.)
So that also means the lower limit of 0.08 is wrong then, obviously! Actually now I think about it maybe I heard that in the context of the SX Mini M, not IPV4 with its 330. Though that'd be very interesting to find the lesser chip in the lesser device had a better range than the flagship chip/device!
Regarding the volts - yes I would definitely check that output. Certainly not unknown for the display values to be out. Also the resistance, maybe it says 0.076 and it's actually slightly higher?
Have you also validated ohms with your DMM? (And if so, please tell me how you get a super accurate ohms reading from your DMM because I can't seem to get closer than to within .1 or .2 with mine!
It does two decimal place ohms but even when shorting the leads to subtract their inherent resistance from the reading, the figure jumps about within a .10 range. Though maybe you have a far superior DMM to mine - mine is a 22,000 count, the UNI-T UT61E for which I paid $60.)
Haha, yeah I'm like that - well, OK, maybe not as bad as 50 coils
But I spend far too long. Like sometimes two hours making a build. It actually gets unfun after a while. And I've realised that I'm being stupid quite often - I'll keep teasing and poking and adjusting a sub-standard coil when I really know that it would be far quicker just to throw the damn thing away and starting again and not making whatever mistake I made the first time.Normally my stubborn desire to persevere and fix problems is an asset, but with coils it borders on ridiculous. It's not like I'm short of wire. And half the time it probably doesn't even make any difference to the resulting vape whether it is 'perfect' or not. This is where dual coils trips me up a lot - those (Kanthal) coils damn well better heat up at the precise same millisecond or I'm not done! Fuck knows if I could ever tell any difference in the vape if I just vaped them anyway
Ironically, I'm actually finding Ni200 quite a bit easier than Kanthal overall. I do get caught out a lot with broken wires when I tighten down the screws in post holes, or when I avoid post holes I often can't get the wire (even thin wire) to stay under the screw heads, it often seems to get pushed out. But those problems don't take me nearly as long as I often take with Kanthal. The main difference is that Ni200 is so malleable - I can literally sculpt the wire with a fine pair of tweezers, fixing every little kink and uneven coil. That's still obsessive and takes too long, but nowhere near as long as I've spent on Kanthal where the damn wire refuses to be sculpted.
Wow OK, interesting, thanks! I shall have to try some much lower resistances.
So that also means the lower limit of 0.08 is wrong then, obviously! Actually now I think about it maybe I heard that in the context of the SX Mini M, not IPV4 with its 330. Though that'd be very interesting to find the lesser chip in the lesser device had a better range than the flagship chip/device!
Regarding the volts - yes I would definitely check that output. Certainly not unknown for the display values to be out. Also the resistance, maybe it says 0.076 and it's actually slightly higher?
Have you also validated ohms with your DMM? (And if so, please tell me how you get a super accurate ohms reading from your DMM because I can't seem to get closer than to within .1 or .2 with mine!
I do not use the digital multimeter to test Ohms's as it is not accurate enough. I have checked the resistance on three different devices, two ohm readers and the IPV4 and they all read the same (actually IPV4 reads .076 and readers show .08 as they don't have the 3rd decimal place)
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the atlantis coils will fit the Eleaf Melo, Vapeston Maganus, Freemax Staree, Sense Herakles to name a few prob more out there.That's what I was planning on getting, and agreed about no higher than 30ga. I started with 30g on my Kayfuns for the longest time, and 28g was revolutionary, so much easier to work with. Now I use mostly 26g, so I figured I'd go the same with Nickel. I need to read up more on Ni200 coiling, and I'll probably get a sub ohm tank at this point. Subtank and the Atlantis are the only tanks with Ni200 heads available, correct? I also know there's another tank that takes Atlantis heads, don't remember which one. I've wanted one for a while, now I have a good excuse to get one.
First build will be in a Mutation V3. I usually dual coil to .45 ish, I know Ni200 has very low resistance, so I'm gonna have to play around. Duals or not? Diameter, wraps, new fun. I'm just pumped, assuming I like the TC, to get rid of dry hits. Sounds like goodness to me.
Hoping my Atlantis nickel coils will get here soon, Going to use them in my Atlantis v2 and starre tanks
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For battery Marrying/Pairing everything that has been said is correct, Just make sure you change up the positions in the battery sled in the mod as batteries in the iPV4 run in Series and the mod will tend to drain one side slightly more then the other.
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the iPV4 ohm reader is near dead on with my Sx Mini and evolve dna40 device. I trust those more then those cheap ohm's testers
Ah yes that's another thing I learnt recently (maybe from you even!) But I keep forgetting to do so, even since I numbered each battery.
I have noticed with both my VF and my IPV4 that when I put the batteries on the charger, one always reads 0.1v higher than the other. What I don't quite get is why that happens also on the parallel VF, and not only the series IPV4.
But yeah I keep meaning to make a note of which battery went in which slot and then rotating next time. I shall have to start doing that.