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advanced study?
- Thread starter susieqz
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Yep. In his test report on the 30Q he said that as long as they are run below 160 something celsius I think he said it was, thy are legit 20 amp batteries. No battery should ever be run that hot anyway.
And you just hit on something. Susie hasn't been vaping that long.
Everybody here who started out thinking that this was the only kind of vape they'd ever want and now have a zillion setups for a range of different styles, please raise your hand.
I rest my case
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well, i just went over to the mech sub forum.
that cured me of wanting a mech.
entirely too much maintenance involved.
i don't need to find out i need a new vape anyway.
i have 5 sigelei sobras n hope to just stay with them.
my other one is just for cdb.
that cured me of wanting a mech.
entirely too much maintenance involved.
i don't need to find out i need a new vape anyway.
i have 5 sigelei sobras n hope to just stay with them.
my other one is just for cdb.
Nope. If there is a problem with the mod causing these batteries to be discharged continuously at 20 amps each, then the battery temperature will rise above 80 degrees Celsius so that's why you should stay at or below the CDR of 15 amps each... it's simply because the built-in safety protections of a regulated mod can fail, and can fail in such a way that the mod discharges batteries continuously, and also it's because the overheat protection of a regulated mod protects only the circuit board inside the mod, not the batteries inside the mod. If you need a 20 amp battery go for the LG HG2 instead, but be advised that this is only about the safety, not the performance of course.
1/ the Sony VTC5A used at 20 amps outperforms the LG HG2 used at 20 amps, and, in addition to this,
2/ the Sony VTC5A used at 20 amps ages slower so it's cheaper in the long run than the LG HG2 used at 20 amps, and, also in addition to this,
3/ the Sony VTC5A used at 20 amps is a bit safer than the LG HG2 used at 20 amps (despite that both are within recommended safety limits), AND,
4/ the Sony VTC5A isn't even the best performing 25 amp battery anymore (we have a new kid in town... it's called the Molicel P26A) so if you need anywhere close to 20 amps per battery you should probably just forget about the 3000mAh batteries excepting only maybe you don't have a better option than the LG HG2 available to you due to where you live, but even then you could decide instead
5/ to go for a bigger mod that uses a bigger number of batteries.
So there's 5 perfectly good reasons to not try to push the limits too far. The manufacturer's upper limit for the Samsung 30Q is 15 amps. That's already the upper limit... the upper limit is something you should try to stay away from, when the batteries being pushed close to their limit do not perform better than other battery choices the CDR of which significantly is higher. I mean, what's the whole point if the actual run time is shorter despite the mAh rating is higher? Too many people are confusing the mAh rating with the Wh rating, and they don't understand anything about the importance of the voltage sag of the batteries or about how that has a noticeable effect on which battery is the better peformer in a given use case scenario.
Yes of course they all work fine at 20 amps. But only for a short while.
Whoever gave you that idea hasn't got a clue about mechs. A well designed, decent quality tube mech mod typically does not require a lot of maintenance at all. But there's a steep learning curve involved with battery safety on a mech, as it also includes understanding the mechanics of the mod, knowledge about safe coil builds, their stability, and not just about being able to apply Ohm's law. Another thing is that getting strong vape performance out of a mech setup may prove to be a bit of a hefty challenge at first, especially if you're not that big on technical skills. Clumsiness and lack of self-discipline or inability to learn and convert knowledge to logical thinking are pretty much incompatible with using a mech, both in terms of safety and performance level.
All true znd well said. I use my 20 amp bats at arround 9a. So ghey work amazing 4 me.
I don't expect anybody to hang on my words, so you can be forgiven for not knowing that I have said earlier in this thread that it's not best to run a battery at or near it's CDR all the time. Especially when there are good ones available with a higher cdr.
I also meant Fahrenheit
Doing too many things at once.The driving point in the context of this thread is that Susie has plenty of batteries well suited to her needs.
On another note, I have no problem believing she is perfectly capable of using mechs safely. I'm just not going to be the one to recommend it at this point in her learning.
I dont recomend any1 using a mech if they are asking what to not do or basic ohms law questions. Again its not that they are not capable of safe and enjoyable mech use. I just try to be a voice of reason so hopefully battery safety is taken seriously.I don't expect anybody to hang on my words, so you can be forgiven for not knowing that I have said earlier in this thread that it's not best to run a battery at or near it's CDR all the time. Especially when there are good ones available with a higher cdr.
I also meant Fahrenheit
The driving point in the context of this thread is that Susie has plenty of batteries well suited to her needs.
On another note, I have no problem believing she is perfectly capable of using mechs safely. I'm just not going to be the one to recommend it at this point in her learning.
gopher_byrd
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Don't use your battery in a way that it will need to put out more current (amps) than it's rated CDR (constant discharge rate). Using numbers, don't use a 20 amp battery in a way where it will need put out more than 20 amps.
For example... i use 2 20 amp batteries in a regulated mod. At 30w and .4 ohms it is pushing just under 9amps. So it is within safe using range.
And here is the point of this part of this discussion. Why stress a 10 amp battery when a 15 or 20 amp battery is available?
Who is going to get tired faster helping you carry furniture @susieqz ?
A guy who can carry it, but it's really heavy for him? Or a guy who could carry more weight if he needed to?
(another bad analogy?)
There is no such thing as "absent voltage sag"
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I totally agree with using a bat with more amps. I was just being bluntly honest that it would b safe. Not that i agree with using a 10a bat.
If I'm understanding you correctly, there's not a way to express this easily in percentages. There are no formulas for evaluating EXACTLY how much runtime (capacity) you'll lose to degradation by running a given battery at or above it's rated cdr (continuous discharge rating).
OR how much you might gain by using a 15 or 20 amp battery with a lower capacity rating, but not working it as hard.
There are too many unknown variables involved with how we use them and charge them, not to mention battery grade and slight differences specimen to specimen of the same battery etc, to be precise.
We just know that it's better to use one that is capable of a bit more than we need based on the overall principles and that really is enough.
If I may be so bold. You will enjoy your vaping more if you accept that you aren't going to see the kind of airtight certainty you're looking for.
Your 30Qs probably are the best overall battery for your style of vaping.
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Oh no, I was agreeing with you.
I knew u were
I was clarifying my opinion in general.
Even though i replied to your comment i wasn't directing it at you.
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Maybe netter to pick a coupla few and watch them over.several times?
haha!
this was not the best time for me to watch this.
i just finished a lecture about the sun acting up.
all i could see is what happens if we get hit by one mild solar plasma ejection.
hasn't happened since the 1860s, but now, bye bye power grid.
for years....
this was not the best time for me to watch this.
i just finished a lecture about the sun acting up.
all i could see is what happens if we get hit by one mild solar plasma ejection.
hasn't happened since the 1860s, but now, bye bye power grid.
for years....
That is one of the greatest documentaries I ever saw
i take the lectures i watch to heart , i suppose.
here's something irritating.
my new hobby is watching online lectures, for fun.
if i enjoyed lectures when i was in school, i could have been top of the class.
too late for that.
i enjoy learning more now than then.
kinda stupid.
here's something irritating.
my new hobby is watching online lectures, for fun.
if i enjoyed lectures when i was in school, i could have been top of the class.
too late for that.
i enjoy learning more now than then.
kinda stupid.
I've been through it 3 times. I LOVE that kinda stuff.
There are no hard and fast numbers that either are safe or are unsafe to vape. To stay at or below the true CDR (true = as listed by Mooch in his battery test results pages and in both his recommended batteries table and his battery ratings and performance tables) of the battery you select for vaping is the only RECOMMENDED limit (recommended = what everyone should recommend to anyone who asks "how much is safe"). The Minding Your mAhs Ep3 video explains how to use the CDR number for calculating battery safety for regulated mods.
Yes, if vaping at 35-40 watts, a regulated mod equipped with two Samsung 30Q batteries or with two Sony VTC6 batteries does give you more vaping time (when compared to equipping it with two Panasonic/Sanyo NCR18650GA batteries or with two LG INR18650MJ1 batteries). That is, with the VTC6 slightly outperforming the 30Q also in addition to this.
EDIT: If you always charge your batteries several days before you start vaping on them, they will age faster than really is necessary. So if it isn't too much hassle to you, you might want to consider not charging more batteries in advance than you need or think you might need, i.e., if it's all the same to you whether they are charged or not, then just don't put them on the charger.
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Yeah, I actually have more 18650s than I'm using and need to discharge a few new pairs and store them for a while. All the pairs I've gotten from LIW come at between 3.5 and 3.7 volts.
It's also worth noting that percentages of charge are measured between 2.5 and 4.2 volts. 2.5 (manufacturers can vary a tad) being dead and 4.2 being full. That can be confusing when somebody's mod is telling them that they're batteries are almost dead and they still have significant voltage left in them.
Dead doesn't mean 0 volts.
To "store" batteries means not using them for a long period, typically more than a few weeks. Even if you don't use them they still age so it's best to try to avoid buying a lot of new batteries to stockpile them if you already know beforehand that you aren't going to be using them in a reasonably near future, yet, despite this, some companies stockpile them nevertheless because they want to ensure they will always (or almost) have access to the quantity they need, if or when they need.
That's true, but you seemed really concerned about safety which is why I kept you telling you they would "work: fine.
NONSENSE!! If you're going to be depressed, save it for something more important.
It WAS his idea though after all.
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It's still best to not store them nevertheless. Instead, just rotate between them, and, don't charge more of them in advance than you think you might need, i.e. try to avoid charging any of them too long in advance (too long = longer than you think might prove to be necessary to still be able to satisfy all your vaping needs excepting of course if/when delaying the decision to put some extra batteries on the charger will be or might be giving you too much hassle due to whatever reason).
I pull 2 full days off my 30q. And about a day and a half from hg2.
And have them all in a set rotation as well.
4 sets