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Carambrda

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what benefits does a mech actually have.
With a mech I am able to get better flavor and especially better feel of the vape. It's a little hard to explain why, but in my own personal experience mechs do offer a certain kind of distinctly, sharply defined characteristic as for how the vape feels, whereas any regulated mod it just feels more vague or actually even downright fuzzy, much to the point of not bringing you the full opportunity to pretty much spontaneously find the right balance between the strength of your draw and the speed of vapor production so as a result the density, the saturation level of the vapor itself tends to sway in a somewhat unpredictable fashion, thereby it disallows the brain to adapt as the chip inside the regulated mod just keeps on messing with the perception, at least to some non negligible extent... long sentence, and sorry about that. lol
 

DonBaldy

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With a mech I am able to get better flavor and especially better feel of the vape. It's a little hard to explain why, but in my own personal experience mechs do offer a certain kind of distinctly, sharply defined characteristic as for how the vape feels, whereas any regulated mod it just feels more vague or actually even downright fuzzy, much to the point of not bringing you the full opportunity to pretty much spontaneously find the right balance between the strength of your draw and the speed of vapor production so as a result the density, the saturation level of the vapor itself tends to sway in a somewhat unpredictable fashion, thereby it disallows the brain to adapt as the chip inside the regulated mod just keeps on messing with the perception, at least to some non negligible extent... long sentence, and sorry about that. lol

To put it terms my simple brain can handle, a mech offers a more pure vape experience. While one is able to get a satisfying vape from regulated for many (myself included) there is something about the vape from a mech that puts it on a different level. There's a good reason (other than crazy) why many are willing to shell out hundreds of dollars on simple metal tubes.
 

gsmit1

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I picked up one of the coil art dp133's from a forum member and it's been a daily vape since. Use it with a dead rabbit RTA. RDA that come with it is nice but don't use it. I enjoy it almost as much as my tubes.

Coil Art DP133 w/ Dead Rabbit RTA by Wayne, on Flickr
The Dpro 133 is another piece that greatly succeeds at what it tries to be. I love the thing. I have a blue and a red that I got for 15 and 10 dollars respectively during the ridiculous holiday sales. I'm sure you agree that it's perfect for leaning to build to your batteries.

I'm with you guys. Even though I have regulated devices that I love and use all the time, if forced to make a decision, I would give up my regulated devices before my mechs.
 
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gopher_byrd

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volts= 40 watts /20 amp battery= 2 volts
2 volts=20 amps x ohms
ohms =.1
that is too low.
Here is how we use Ohm's Law for mech mods:

E=I*R
This is the equation where E=volts, I=Amps, and R=resistance

We always use 4.2 volts for the voltage as that will provide the max current draw on the battery as we don't know how much the battery voltage will sag and the voltage drop of the mod/atty combo.

We don't know how much current (Amps) will be drawn, but we do know the voltage and the resistance, so we use the equation to solve for current.

I=E/R
What I did is divide both sides of the equation with R. R/R=1 so we can throw that away leaving just E/R=I Now let's throw some numbers in there.

I will use 1 Ohm for resistance and 4.2 volts for the voltage.

I=4.2/1 so I=4.2 Amps

To find the lowest resistance you should use with a battery works the same way except you solve for R.

R=E/I
Here you would use the CDR for the current of the battery and 4.2 volts.

Using some numbers let's use 20 Amps for the battery and 4.2 volts.

R=4.2/20 R=0.21 so a 0.21 Ohm coil would be the lowest coil you should use with a 20 Amp battery.

Figuring power (Watts) works the same way.

P=I*E
is the equation where P=power (Watts) and I=current and E=volts

Using the same numbers from above
P=4.2*4.2 so P=17.64 Watts

If you didn't figure the current previously you can use this equation:

P=E*E/R and get the same result.

What I did there is substitute E/R for I

This is just simple Junior High School Algebra.

:tldr:
 

Carambrda

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To put it terms my simple brain can handle, a mech offers a more pure vape experience. While one is able to get a satisfying vape from regulated for many (myself included) there is something about the vape from a mech that puts it on a different level. There's a good reason (other than crazy) why many are willing to shell out hundreds of dollars on simple metal tubes.
I dunno if it's purer or possessed more by satan... it just tastes and feels nicer IMO. But the tubes aren't actually as simple as they might look, at least not after Kevin Crump started making 'em.
 

Carambrda

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Here is how we use Ohm's Law for mech mods:

E=I*R
This is the equation where E=volts, I=Amps, and R=resistance

We always use 4.2 volts for the voltage as that will provide the max current draw on the battery as we don't know how much the battery voltage will sag and the voltage drop of the mod/atty combo.

We don't know how much current (Amps) will be drawn, but we do know the voltage and the resistance, so we use the equation to solve for current.

I=E/R
What I did is divide both sides of the equation with R. R/R=1 so we can throw that away leaving just E/R=I Now let's throw some numbers in there.

I will use 1 Ohm for resistance and 4.2 volts for the voltage.

I=4.2/1 so I=4.2 Amps

To find the lowest resistance you should use with a battery works the same way except you solve for R.

R=E/I
Here you would use the CDR for the current of the battery and 4.2 volts.

Using some numbers let's use 20 Amps for the battery and 4.2 volts.

R=4.2/20 R=0.21 so a 0.21 Ohm coil would be the lowest coil you should use with a 20 Amp battery.

Figuring power (Watts) works the same way.

P=I*E
is the equation where P=power (Watts) and I=current and E=volts

Using the same numbers from above
P=4.2*4.2 so P=17.64 Watts

If you didn't figure the current previously you can use this equation:

P=E*E/R and get the same result.

What I did there is substitute E/R for I

This is just simple Junior High School Algebra.

:tldr:
In up-to-date American school books and tech literature I believe the E has been replaced with V. Here in Europe it's always been U (for urgere, which is the Latin word for "to push"). An American example is V = 4.2 volts. In Europe, that would be U = 4.2V so this might be a bit confusing to those unfamiliar with notations specified in an international context. The letter A could mean anything in America, and, the word "ampere" (for Ampère, the name of the French physicist who coined the phrase "intensity of (the) current", in French, "intensité de courant", which is where the letter I comes from) sounded even less appealing to upper class Americans who thought participating or being somehow linked to participation in science was their only way to reflect their status... so much so, initially they looked down on the Frenchies until finally these Americans came to realize the fact that André-Marie Ampère's discovery was even more of an important milestone than that of Italian earl Alessandro Giuseppe Antonio Anastasio Volta. So the Americans knew that they had to come up with a word that would akcknowledge this major importance at least somehow because else it would make them look ridiculous, as they had already come up with the word volt so this is why the word amp was finally elected by them, even though it's still a little strange of course. lol
 

gopher_byrd

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In up-to-date American school books and tech literature I believe the E has been replaced with V. Here in Europe it's always been U (for urgere, which is the Latin word for "to push"). An American example is V = 4.2 volts. In Europe, that would be U = 4.2V so this might be a bit confusing to those unfamiliar with notations specified in an international context. The letter A could mean anything in America, and, the word "ampere" (for Ampère, the name of the French physicist who coined the phrase "intensity of (the) current", in French, "intensité de courant", which is where the letter I comes from) sounded even less appealing to upper class Americans who thought participating or being somehow linked to participation in science was their only way to reflect their status... so much so, initially they looked down on the Frenchies until finally these Americans came to realize the fact that André-Marie Ampère's discovery was even more of an important milestone than that of Italian earl Alessandro Giuseppe Antonio Anastasio Volta. So the Americans knew that they had to come up with a word that would akcknowledge this major importance at least somehow because else it would make them look ridiculous, as they had already come up with the word volt so this is why the word amp was finally elected by them, even though it's still a little strange of course. lol
I'm an old fart, I learned electronics back in the 70's. E=IR and P=IE was the norm back then. At least I defined each of the variables.
 

susieqz

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Member For 1 Year
i see people have been posting n i wasn't notified.
sorry, guys.

i wanna thank everyone that recommended 30qs.

i tested in my morning vape.
my 20 amp batteries give me 12 hours of use before they drop to 50%.
the the 30qs give me 14 hours before hitting 50%.
2 hours may not seem like much, but i use this mod 7 hours/day.
so, it's very convenient to have batteries that last 2 days without switching batteries.
 

Wb80

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i see people have been posting n i wasn't notified.
sorry, guys.

i wanna thank everyone that recommended 30qs.

i tested in my morning vape.
my 20 amp batteries give me 12 hours of use before they drop to 50%.
the the 30qs give me 14 hours before hitting 50%.
2 hours may not seem like much, but i use this mod 7 hours/day.
so, it's very convenient to have batteries that last 2 days without switching batteries.
I am glad they r working for you. A pair of 30q r in one of mine atm too.
 

Wb80

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I pull a good day and a half of chain vaping with them.
 

gsmit1

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i see people have been posting n i wasn't notified.
sorry, guys.

i wanna thank everyone that recommended 30qs.

i tested in my morning vape.
my 20 amp batteries give me 12 hours of use before they drop to 50%.
the the 30qs give me 14 hours before hitting 50%.
2 hours may not seem like much, but i use this mod 7 hours/day.
so, it's very convenient to have batteries that last 2 days without switching batteries.
Great to hear. Now ya gotta get a rotation system for them so they last as long as possible :)
 

Wb80

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I number my sets of married batteries. And put an a on one and a b on the other. 1a goes in the 1st bat slot in the mod and 1b goes in the second slot. Rite now i have 3 sets in rotation. By labeling them this way i never have to guess what set comes next in my rotation.
Not sure how any1 else does it but it works well for me and extends battery life.
 

susieqz

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i keep my sets together, but why would it matter what charger slot they go into?
 

Wb80

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I always put them in the same slot in the mod. Thats what the a and b is for. Not the charger.
 

Wb80

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Some mods seem to drain dual batteries at a slightly different rate. Could just b ocd. But i try to keep as much the same as i can. I have seen some people kill batteries in 3 months due to bad battery care.
 

Carambrda

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Likely it might be a tad better to, within the married set, rotate between the slots in the mod, as there's differences between the resistance of each battery contact in the mod in cohort with that of the wire that's soldered to the battery contact in question. The idea is to, in the long run, keep the total amount of wear and tear that occurs on each battery within the married set matched to the total amount of wear and tear that occurs on the entire set, as closely as possible, i.e. to keep batteries that belong to the same married set more closely in balance with each other.

 
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susieqz

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Member For 1 Year
yeah, that's what i was thinking.
if one side constantly drained batteries faster,
switching them should equalize damage.

ok, i just watched car's vid.
mooch doesn't exactly address this, but i think it's implied.

i'm not gonna worry about this. my pairs migrate from mod to mod, so it should even out.
 
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gsmit1

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yow! i got my batteries just in time.
mooch is reporting there are fake 30qs out there.
Somebody will fake everything. The best defense is to only buy batteries from known reputable sources. Places like LIW have the expertise and resources to guarantee against fakes.
 

gsmit1

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yow! i got my batteries just in time.
mooch is reporting there are fake 30qs out there.
Honestly, fake 30Qs (along with every other battery we use) have probably been floating around for a while.

Good reliable vendors get their batteries from known good suppliers they have a long term business relationship with. Not Wang Sung's sooper dooper battery and tennis shoe outlet.

(for some reason, I stopped getting notifications for this thread too )
 

Carambrda

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Places like LIW have the expertise and resources to guarantee against fakes.
No, they most definitely have not. What makes a battery vendor trusted is what they'll do after they find out they've been selling fakes, like, send you an e-mail to notify you immediately the moment when the fakes have been detected and then issue a fast replacement to rectify the problem.
 

gsmit1

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No, they most definitely have not. What makes a battery vendor trusted is what they'll do after they find out they've been selling fakes, like, send you an e-mail to notify you immediately the moment when the fakes have been detected and then issue a fast replacement to rectify the problem.

That's what I meant. They guarantee that all measures have been taken to ensure that the batteries they sell are genuine and if not they'll replace them. Nobody can guarantee that not a single bad specimen will ever pass their doors. Sorry for the confusion.
That's what they'll try, but most often they simply can't.

I guess I'm only speaking with regard to LIW. This is copied from the site. Emphasis theirs.
We don't sell bogus batteries. When buying from LiionWholesale, you can rest assured that we only work with top tier manufacturers to bring you the best, most reliable, trustworthy batteries that will perform above and beyond your expectations. And we test every shipment to ensure consistent quality.
 

Carambrda

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That's what I meant. They guarantee that all measures have been taken to ensure that the batteries they sell are genuine and if not they'll replace them. Nobody can guarantee that not a single bad specimen will ever pass their doors. Sorry for the confusion.


I guess I'm only speaking with regard to LIW. This is copied from the site. Emphasis theirs.
They can't guarantee that all measures have been taken to ensure it. That's because the measures that they are in fact CAPABLE to take either are minimal or are worse than minimal so, basically, about the ONLY thing that they ensure is that the sky is the limit, as they simply lack BOTH the staff AND the resources to check every single cell (and not just whether there might be fakes, as they'll actually even send you a genuine, non-rewrapped, Samsung with a punctured wrap and another one that has a small dent, after which they'll apologize fast and send replacements also equally fast) so instead they just glance at them for a few seconds, and that's if you get lucky... they're only human so we can't blame them because they're only trying the best they can do, which is actually wonderful and great so we love them for that, but still vapers need to be made aware of it so don't be sorry... just try to be safe instead. :)
 

Jon@LiionWholesale

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I addressed what we do in more detail here in the other post, but I want to call out one distinction. You're right that what makes us a trusted vendor first and foremost is that if somehow you get a bad battery from us we will take care of you. However, it also means getting a bad battery is far less likely from LiionWholesale in particular, and I personally believe we're the best of all the trusted vendors in this. We have many procedures in place that make it so that getting genuine top grade batteries the first time is as sure of a thing as possible. Read the other post for more detail.
 

Carambrda

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as sure of a thing as possible
To be perfectly clear... as long as people can understand that this description isn't equivalent to "guarantee", and, as long as people can understand that that's the only thing I have been trying to point out about this particular subject, I have no further criticisms to add. Well maybe there's this one thing... I live in Belgium, Europe so I can't order any cells from you unless I order at least 500, which is a lot because I'm just a vaper so each time after Mooch announces a new cell that trounces all the older ones I have to wait up to several months before I'm able to grab the new cell from NKON in The Netherlands.

193.gif
 

Wb80

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To be perfectly clear... as long as people can understand that this description isn't equivalent to "guarantee", and, as long as people can understand that that's the only thing I have been trying to point out about this particular subject, I have no further criticisms to add. Well maybe there's this one thing... I live in Belgium, Europe so I can't order any cells from you unless I order at least 500, which is a lot because I'm just a vaper so each time after Mooch announces a new cell that trounces all the older ones I have to wait up to several months before I'm able to grab the new cell from NKON in The Netherlands.

193.gif
Set up with some 1 in the us. You order, ship 2 there address n they ship to you. A lil more money spent but less waiting. Just a thought.
 

Carambrda

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Set up with some 1 in the us. You order, ship 2 there address n they ship to you. A lil more money spent but less waiting. Just a thought.
They'd have to be packaged and individually labelled to comply with the latest federal regulations that apply in the USA so things are not that easy. In fact DHL Express refuses their shipment even if they comply with those regulations if I'm reading correct: "Loose batteries, extra batteries and power banks are not permitted." See here:
https://www.dhlexpress.be/en/shippi...nts-for-sending-lithium-batteries-dhl-express

Here's the latest guideline document that explains the minimum legal requirements:
https://www.iata.org/whatwedo/cargo/dgr/Documents/lithium-battery-shipping-guidelines.pdf
 

Wb80

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I worked in shipping departments for years. Sent shit all over the globe. What ups n fed ex arent told wont hurt them. N it ships just fine.
 

Wb80

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Is it 100% ethical, no. But they r batteries not drugs
 

Wb80

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I addressed what we do in more detail here in the other post, but I want to call out one distinction. You're right that what makes us a trusted vendor first and foremost is that if somehow you get a bad battery from us we will take care of you. However, it also means getting a bad battery is far less likely from LiionWholesale in particular, and I personally believe we're the best of all the trusted vendors in this. We have many procedures in place that make it so that getting genuine top grade batteries the first time is as sure of a thing as possible. Read the other post for more detail.
With the fakes being arround so much(and the fact that i unfortunately have 4 fake hg2s from a shit vendor) i like hearing that you guys stand behind what you sell 100%. Because of that you have my business.
 

The Cromwell

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I'm an old fart, I learned electronics back in the 70's. E=IR and P=IE was the norm back then. At least I defined each of the variables.
Ahh but one variable variable with a mech is battery voltage sag under load.
Another is how clean your threads and switch parts are.
 

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