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f1r3b1rd

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ProVape got it right,
They stopped calling it Temp Control and went with Coil Control :giggle:
Have you ever held a Radius?
One thing I like about it is the light weight and rounded body.

ProVariRadiusCustomR-1.gif

if they got it right, can you please explain it to me?

ive been using TC - should be temp limiting since the very first board to do it.....
I understand that way .. but I have no clue what the hell the prporape method is doing or how to set it, other than I found a setting I like.
 

Fringe

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And also wanna add I do love the looks and feel of the SXMini. I just think it's the perfect size and weight. I'm just bumming right now bcuz the batt drain has gotten so bad. I tried a brand new batt that was never used and same thing. UGH

That or maybe my charger is going bad???? Hmmmmm who knows

The Radius comes with a 18650 2500mAh battery.
Not sure if that would last you all day. Depends on settings and how much you vape.
The one Red mentioned (Pioneer4You IPV 6X) has dual batteries so I would think it would last a person a lot longer.
Found this thread on it.
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/ipv-6x.268880/
 

Fringe

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if they got it right, can you please explain it to me?

ive been using TC - should be temp limiting since the very first board to do it.....
I understand that way .. but I have no clue what the hell the prporape method is doing or how to set it, other than I found a setting I like.
I meant they got it right because they didn't name it something it can't do. :teehee:
Without someway to measure the temp, like a thermocouple, I can't see how they can call it Temp anything when they don't know what the temp is.
The word Temperature should of been left out of the name is what I am trying to say.
Even Heat Control would of been a better name. ;)
 

f1r3b1rd

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I meant they got it right because they didn't name it something it can't do. :teehee:
Without someway to measure the temp, like a thermocouple, I can't see how they can call it Temp anything when they don't know what the temp is.
The word Temperature should of been left out of the name is what I am trying to say.
Even Heat Control would of been a better name. ;)

Actually its first nomenclature was temperature limiting. The user base made it temperature control and it stuck.

the idea is supposed to be.. set the temp to X and then your power.
the board would regulate the power to not let you go above X.
some boards got so good at it that it began to work or mimic closely to what a thermostat should do. but, that was never the intended purpose.
for whatever reason, the expectations from a lot of the users became otherwise.
 

Fringe

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Actually its first nomenclature was temperature limiting. The user base made it temperature control and it stuck.

the idea is supposed to be.. set the temp to X and then your power.
the board would regulate the power to not let you go above X.
some boards got so good at it that it began to work or mimic closely to what a thermostat should do. but, that was never the intended purpose.
for whatever reason, the expectations from a lot of the users became otherwise.
That idea works on paper :teehee:
But in the real world where every board, battery, and coil are different even when they suppose to be the same, you get different temps.

Provape always said it wouldn't come out with Temp control until they got it to work.
Well again I say, I don't think a mod could have an honest Temp control without a way of measuring the Temp in the first place.
Provape realized this and came out with Coil Control which means Provape really didn't come out with Temp Control, sticking to their claims that they wouldn't until it worked. :slowclap:
 

f1r3b1rd

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That idea works on paper :teehee:
But in the real world where every board, battery, and coil are different even when they suppose to be the same, you get different temps.

Provape always said it wouldn't come out with Temp control until they got it to work.
Well again I say, I don't think a mod could have an honest Temp control without a way of measuring the Temp in the first place.
Provape realized this and came out with Coil Control which means Provape really didn't come out with Temp Control, sticking to their claims that they wouldn't until it worked. :slowclap:

youre missing the finer point.
the battery and board do not effect it, other than providing the power and doing the calculation.n
they have nothing to do with the way TC or TL works at all.

there is a reason we are supposed to start with a board and atty at the same temp.
if R is x and temp is y when I start and the metal is such that it changes C for every increase of X at a constant rate than the board can approximate what the temp of the metal is at any given point based on the change of X.

its all a calculation, that's why evolve refers to it as a heart beat...

I don't know what the hell prorape is doing, but I would love to find out.
to bad when I was right they couldn't face it so they banned me before they followed through with what I was saying in the first place.
 

Fringe

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This has been said over and over but,
I would like to see Provape some out with a tank with the P3 threading.
I know they have the Kabuki but not everyone can get their vape out of a Kabuki.
Just like to see 2 styles of tanks, one take the Kanger subtank coils and the other take Aspire Atlantis/Triton coils.
A simple tank like the Top Fill Subtank mini.
 

Fringe

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youre missing the finer point.
the battery and board do not effect it, other than providing the power and doing the calculation.n
they have nothing to do with the way TC or TL works at all.

there is a reason we are supposed to start with a board and atty at the same temp.
if R is x and temp is y when I start and the metal is such that it changes C for every increase of X at a constant rate than the board can approximate what the temp of the metal is at any given point based on the change of X.

its all a calculation, that's why evolve refers to it as a heart beat...

I don't know what the hell prorape is doing, but I would love to find out.
to bad when I was right they couldn't face it so they banned me before they followed through with what I was saying in the first place.
Well the bottom line is that TC don't work to good. And if a person gets it working good, soon as they change their coil, they have to figure it out again.
 

f1r3b1rd

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This has been said over and over but,
I would like to see Provape some out with a tank with the P3 threading.
I know they have the Kabuki but not everyone can get their vape out of a Kabuki.
Just like to see 2 styles of tanks, one take the Kanger subtank coils and the other take Aspire Atlantis/Triton coils.
A simple tank like the Top Fill Subtank mini.
do they have their method for tc published anywhere other than the manual?
the science they are using is to vague

if they do anything tank wise I want a p3 base for my kf5 first.

Well the bottom line is that TC don't work to good. And if a person gets it working good, soon as they change their coil, they have to figure it out again.


works fine for me with the dna200...
literally so long as my coil is tightened in good, I never have an issue with any of my dna 133s or 200s.
 

f1r3b1rd

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Fringe

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do they have their method for tc published anywhere other than the manual?
the science they are using is to vague

if they do anything tank wise I want a p3 base for my kf5 first.


works fine for me with the dna200...
literally so long as my coil is tightened in good, I never have an issue with any of my dna 133s or 200s.
I couldn't find nothing from Provape But I didn't feel like reading the forums to see what was said.
here is a thread with a bunch of q&a dna stuff.....
I don't go in there so much anymore but wings and I both try and help out with it... he has a lot of good dna info in the links in his sig,
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/hcigar-vt133-dual-18650-dna200.171476/page-7#post-1181938
I gave up on DNA's.
I had them 2 DNA 40s and a rDNA 40, one burned up chargers if you plugged it in and it drained my battery even when I wasn't using it.
The other drained my battery when not in use too. I mean drained it below 2.5 volts when I say drained it.
Never had a problem with my rDNA 40 but gave it away.
I have one of the DNA 40s left and still use, but I can't keep a battery in it over night or it will drain it.
 

Fringe

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Simply Red

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I have a IPV D2 75 watt that was given to me. I used it one time, vaped a tank out of it.
Nice and small and feels nice in the hand.

I have one of those, as well. Goes with me as a back up, just in case, along with 4-18650's which, I don't know why. Never had to change a set twice in one day. I use the iPV5 at home, too.
 

Fringe

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I have one of those, as well. Goes with me as a back up, just in case, along with 4-18650's which, I don't know why. Never had to change a set twice in one day. I use the iPV5 at home, too.

I remember now how I ended up with that IPV D2 :huh:
I won that SMOK Cloud Machine Kit and took it to a vape shop to show it to the owner.
Some kid was in there and he just bought that IPV D2, and a SMOK TFV4 Tank, the boxes weren't even opened yet.
He offered me both the IPV D2 & SMOK TFV4 Tank Plus a $100 for my SMOK Kit. o_O
I couldn't pass it up. ;)
 

f1r3b1rd

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I couldn't find nothing from Provape But I didn't feel like reading the forums to see what was said.

I gave up on DNA's.
I had them 2 DNA 40s and a rDNA 40, one burned up chargers if you plugged it in and it drained my battery even when I wasn't using it.
The other drained my battery when not in use too. I mean drained it below 2.5 volts when I say drained it.
Never had a problem with my rDNA 40 but gave it away.
I have one of the DNA 40s left and still use, but I can't keep a battery in it over night or it will drain it.
the 200 is a totally different animal altogether.
I do still have some of my 40s in the "oh shit" box but the 200/133's and everything since is, well the same theory for operation, but much more smoother and more user friendly.
its also one of those things like a lot of vape gear, sort of a love it or hate it thing
 

RebelGolfer72

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Well the bottom line is that TC don't work to good. And if a person gets it working good, soon as they change their coil, they have to figure it out again.
Not to split hairs, but temperature control can work very well-- just not in a fashion that fits every style of vape.
The concept of using resistance change to measure temperature is widely accepted (exactly how a thermocouple works).
Where it got bad is trying to adapt coil techniques that depend on oxidation to work, as well as varying from what was intended.
Where problems happened:
1. Wire material. Nickel was chosen for its huge temperature coefficient. Internet tough guys started an unnecessary scare over it... reality is, the same people who were ascared of it are the same ones who have been using NiCr wire coils in devices made of nickel plated brass years.
2. Wire gauge. Nickel is a bitch to work with, so heavier wire gauge was desired. Heavier wire gauge doesn't respond as fast to temperature changes as thinner gauges. Both thin or heavy gauge can be used, but how the board manages temperature would have to change (ironically, SX boards were better for heavier wire, while DNA were better for thin).
3. Number of coils. Temperature control depends on resistance change, dual parallel coils have a different curve, yet all TC devices are designed to handle single coils. Also, dual coils would have to be perfectly matched in order to be effective.
4. "Contact coils". Temperature control simply not work accurately with contact coils ("micro coils") nor will it work with Clapton coils or anything of the such.
5. Solid connections of wire. Contact points need to be clean and solid. The method used by premade coils of pinching the coil wire between the case and rubber insulator was never solid enough.
6. Mod and coil need to be the same temperature. Too easy to rush from building a coil (that was just touched by 98.6°F fingers), and slightly heated from sitting on an ohm checker and throwing it on a mod that is 70° room temperature-- so you don't have a good baseline.

In other word, yes, Temperature control can work very very well, it's human error that gave it a bad name.
 

KY_Rob

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Ima go with @RebelGolfer72 and @f1r3b1rd on this one @Fringe.

I hated/detested/loathed TC when it first came out and nickel was the "only" material that was to be used. I have DNA40 flasks that were used exclusively with Kanthal only. Then I got my first VF Stout (wismec makes them I think), that had TCR capability and a preset for SS316. Just for shits and giggles, I tried the SS316 setting and made a spaced SS316 coil...and haven't looked back since.

Now I can get 2 (and sometimes 3) weeks on a build AND wick (I use rayon). It's never finicky. Almost never flakey. AND I used it with a KF4, which everyone says can't do TC. Just fill the tank every morning and change/charge the battery every other day, and vape away.
 

Simply Red

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Ima go with @RebelGolfer72 and @f1r3b1rd on this one @Fringe.

I hated/detested/loathed TC when it first came out and nickel was the "only" material that was to be used. I have DNA40 flasks that were used exclusively with Kanthal only. Then I got my first VF Stout (wismec makes them I think), that had TCR capability and a preset for SS316. Just for shits and giggles, I tried the SS316 setting and made a spaced SS316 coil...and haven't looked back since.

Now I can get 2 (and sometimes 3) weeks on a build AND wick (I use rayon). It's never finicky. Almost never flakey. AND I used it with a KF4, which everyone says can't do TC. Just fill the tank every morning and change/charge the battery every other day, and vape away.

I have about 450LF of Cellucotton I can send ya??
sm_blink.gif
 

f1r3b1rd

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Ima go with @RebelGolfer72 and @f1r3b1rd on this one @Fringe.

I hated/detested/loathed TC when it first came out and nickel was the "only" material that was to be used. I have DNA40 flasks that were used exclusively with Kanthal only. Then I got my first VF Stout (wismec makes them I think), that had TCR capability and a preset for SS316. Just for shits and giggles, I tried the SS316 setting and made a spaced SS316 coil...and haven't looked back since.

Now I can get 2 (and sometimes 3) weeks on a build AND wick (I use rayon). It's never finicky. Almost never flakey. AND I used it with a KF4, which everyone says can't do TC. Just fill the tank every morning and change/charge the battery every other day, and vape away.
that board uses very similar algorithms and is very similar in physical design to the dna board... so much so that wisec/joyetech got sued by evolve for patent infringement
 

AngiBe

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@AngiBe Without quoting all the pertinent posts, the iPV6 is small and lite weight. Here's some "size comparisons".

View attachment 63686 View attachment 63687 View attachment 63688

Add: SxMini with 1-18650 weighs about the same as the iPV6 with 2-18650's

Thank you and great comparison. I guess I'm a little gun shy on the iPV because I had one a long time ago and it kinda sucked. But I guess it has greatly improved it seems. What tank are u liking lately? For a quick grab, fill and go that I don't have to build coils for? I still use an Asprie Triton but thinking there's probably more out there now. LOLOL
 

Simply Red

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Thank you and great comparison. I guess I'm a little gun shy on the iPV because I had one a long time ago and it kinda sucked. But I guess it has greatly improved it seems. What tank are u liking lately? For a quick grab, fill and go that I don't have to build coils for? I still use an Asprie Triton but thinking there's probably more out there now. LOLOL

Still using my Silo Beast (x2) every day. :D Uses Triton coils, too.
 

Simply Red

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Thank you and great comparison. I guess I'm a little gun shy on the iPV because I had one a long time ago and it kinda sucked. But I guess it has greatly improved it seems. What tank are u liking lately? For a quick grab, fill and go that I don't have to build coils for? I still use an Asprie Triton but thinking there's probably more out there now. LOLOL

iPV's I have...

Mini - In the vape drawer. The housing is a "split case", for lack of a better term, and doesn't accept the battery screw cover well anymore
D2 - My back up I carry every day. Used to be my daily driver
5 - On my side table (well, in my hand, atm) and used for mostly RDA's
6 - Now, my daily driver and the batteries last. Better than a day on a full set at 40W
 

SirVtHondaGuy08

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I fire only SS316L...... You can make a fused Clapton (10)wrap oming at .20 and on 80watts quick volcano Lucifer throat fuck... Love it......and look at the last image, that's on TC after (3)weeks !!!!

View attachment 63729View attachment 63730
View attachment 63731

Sent from my 710C using Tapatalk

Speaking my of fused claptons, I just made my first one(s) ever. I had some ni80 and gave it a try, I've only ever made plain coils with kanthal and SS. I tried it once and it came out pretty dang good if I do say so myself.
2x26g core, 32g wrap:
88f271c727f67bf591bdd939a0a7ef41.jpg

64eaa43e06703b65da7ed5f9bbdd3e8b.jpg

ba69028c4f9d64d6ce54175a2f26eb4a.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

MannyScoot

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Speaking my of fused claptons, I just made my first one(s) ever. I had some ni80 and gave it a try, I've only ever made plain coils with kanthal and SS. I tried it once and it came out pretty dang good if I do say so myself.
2x26g core, 32g wrap:
88f271c727f67bf591bdd939a0a7ef41.jpg

64eaa43e06703b65da7ed5f9bbdd3e8b.jpg

ba69028c4f9d64d6ce54175a2f26eb4a.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
They look nice, I tried some with ni80 but had to run them on wattage power mode, non of my mods ran it on ni200 and I didn't have ni80 mode.....

Then I was told that if ni80 is not run on wattage mode it can be toxic.....

So I began using 316L and never went back.....

This is a 4.5 mm circumference (6) wrap on the Aromamizer Supreme.....
IMAG1974_1.jpg

Sent from my 710C using Tapatalk
 

SirVtHondaGuy08

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They look nice, I tried some with ni80 but had to run them on wattage power mode, non of my mods ran it on ni200 and I didn't have ni80 mode.....

Then I was told that if ni80 is not run on wattage mode it can be toxic.....

So I began using 316L and never went back.....

This is a 4.5 mm circumference (6) wrap on the Aromamizer Supreme.....
View attachment 63733

Sent from my 710C using Tapatalk

I'm going to order up some SS316l tomorrow and have a go with that, I've never used Ni80 and wanted to give it a go. I also primarily use wattage mode, but my hohm wrecker G2 has temp mode for it if I wanted to try.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

MannyScoot

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I'm going to order up some SS316l tomorrow and have a go with that, I've never used Ni80 and wanted to give it a go. I also primarily use wattage mode, but my hohm wrecker G2 has temp mode for it if I wanted to try.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ni80 on TC would be nice, but they don't fire or ramp up as quick as 316L they require more power...... But test it out and see how it works on temp control..... Cool.....

Sent from my 710C using Tapatalk
 

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