Hohm wrecker g2

[Infinite1]

@Infinite1 I have pretty much the same thing with my 510 but it depends on which atty I use. Some work better than others. It does feel loose but I think it is what was used in all the g2 mods.

I am sure youtube videos will arise on changing a 510 in a g2.

I was thinking the same thing. I might tear it down myself, but I just got it yesterday, not even 24 hours ago. Now... the display being crooked is something of extreme importance. My OCD about that kind of thing is greater than the 510 which I really only notice when switching toppers

 

[joeyboy]

My 510 works fine now. Took a little while.

 

[jackmormon]

On both the G2's I have....I had to use a q-tip to "work" the 510 pin by pressing down and letting it up a few times before either would recognize an atomizer was present. Haven't had any further issues since doing this.

 

[TDC123]

I think I have a really big prob that hopefully one of you knowledgeable folks may have some insight.

I am getting a damaged or "connect atomizer" with the following;

Aromamizer Supreme
Tsunami 24
Griffin 25
TFV8

The only Atty that's working is the Tornado that I received today.

All of the problematic atties work on all of my other mods, DNAs, IPV5, RX200S

This is bazaar, anyone experience this?

Firmware of G2 2.4.7

Thanks in advance with any help otherwise this may be a return situation.

Sent from a random device, most likely a LG V10

A couple things...

I have two of those same atomizers and they work fine on my Hohmslice or G2. However I have had the damaged or connect atimizer message show up from time to time.

First...you must hit the fire button with no atomizer attached when swapping atty's and make sure the device registers 0 ohms before you install another atomizer.

Second, make a mental note of the resistance reading for the atty you removed and it's even better if you already know the resistance of the atty you will be installing (check on a handy mod or ohm meter). Make sure the device reads the new atty's resistance. Every now and then the device may try to revert back to the previous atomizers resistance reading. I haven't figured out why. Just repeat disconnecting the atomizer from the device (spin it out a few turns) and hit the fire button with no atomizer connected making sure it reads 0 ohms, then reconnect and try again. Most of the time this clears the memory of the old atty and updates to the new atty and you're off to the races. If not then turning the device off and back on then hitting the fire button with no atty attached should do the trick. On the very rare occasion that did not make the device read the new atomizer I've went into power mode to fire the new atomizer a couple times. Upon returning to TC mode the device would have read the correct resistance. What's nice is that if you power the device off or change batteries the device retains the setting for the atty that was on it when either of those two occurred so you don't have to reset anything. I think though that for some reason the devices sometimes don't quite get the message that there has been an atty swap.

With kanthal and really any wire but especially kanthal the coil must be room temp when intially connected to the device. If the device fires it even a little during any of the tomfoolery above then your resistance reading will be off and you must set that atty aside to cool to room temp and start over.

Third... If you successfully connect a new atomizer and the device reads the resistance correctly for the new atty but you still get the damaged atomizer message then your FSK percentage is off. Say you went from a SS coil and had your FSK set for 15.5% but you install a kanthal coil then obviously the device is going to think there is a problem with the atty since the resistance is wonky. Drop the FSK percentage down into the acceptable range for kanthal and it will quite reading damaged atomizer. This is usually how I remedy the "damaged atomizer" warning message.For me kanthal builds have been working on FSK settings of 1.6 to 3.5. For connecting new attys I set the device for 2 and fine tune from there.

All the above is assuming you're in xXx mode!

 

[mjag]

My 510 works fine now. Took a little while.

My first G2 was having problems with the 510, almost shipped it back. I decided to just use it over the weekend and since then no more problems except with a couple horizon tech tanks. With the horizon tanks I just added a drip tip oring to there 510 and that gave me the clearance to work every time. I could have used one of those mod saver discs as well to stop the tanks from bottoming the 510. I haven't had any problems with any other tank except the super tank 25mm, weird because the regular super tank works just fine.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

 

[Infinite1]

A couple things...

I have two of those same atomizers and they work fine on my Hohmslice or G2. However I have had the damaged or connect atimizer message show up from time to time.

First...you must hit the fire button with no atomizer attached when swapping atty's and make sure the device registers 0 ohms before you install another atomizer.

Second, make a mental note of the resistance reading for the atty you removed and it's even better if you already know the resistance of the atty you will be installing (check on a handy mod or ohm meter). Make sure the device reads the new atty's resistance. Every now and then the device may try to revert back to the previous atomizers resistance reading. I haven't figured out why. Just repeat disconnecting the atomizer from the device (spin it out a few turns) and hit the fire button with no atomizer connected making sure it reads 0 ohms, then reconnect and try again. Most of the time this clears the memory of the old atty and updates to the new atty and you're off to the races. If not then turning the device off and back on then hitting the fire button with no atty attached should do the trick. On the very rare occasion that did not make the device read the new atomizer I've went into power mode to fire the new atomizer a couple times. Upon returning to TC mode the device would have read the correct resistance. What's nice is that if you power the device off or change batteries the device retains the setting for the atty that was on it when either of those two occurred so you don't have to reset anything. I think though that for some reason the devices sometimes don't quite get the message that there has been an atty swap.

With kanthal and really any wire but especially kanthal the coil must be room temp when intially connected to the device. If the device fires it even a little during any of the tomfoolery above then your resistance reading will be off and you must set that atty aside to cool to room temp and start over.

Third... If you successfully connect a new atomizer and the device reads the resistance correctly for the new atty but you still get the damaged atomizer message then your FSK percentage is off. Say you went from a SS coil and had your FSK set for 15.5% but you install a kanthal coil then obviously the device is going to think there is a problem with the atty since the resistance is wonky. Drop the FSK percentage down into the acceptable range for kanthal and it will quite reading damaged atomizer. This is usually how I remedy the "damaged atomizer" warning message.For me kanthal builds have been working on FSK settings of 1.6 to 3.5. For connecting new attys I set the device for 2 and fine tune from there.

All the above is assuming you're in xXx mode!

Thanks so much for the very informative info!! There's certainly some differences that I am getting accustomed to. The G2 is providing me with the difference that I was after!! Thanks again

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[TDC123]

Somewhere in this thread Ray has a nice tutorial on how to set up a new atomizer's FSK settings on the HT devices. It helped me and it's worth digging up. Once that FSK setting is correct I never have to change it again until I change atomizers.

I can max out the wattage and if my FSK setting is correct it affects the temp of the vape very little. This is important because it seems like a lot of people are running with FSK settings that may be too high or they are jacking around with them mid vape. That will eventually yield burnt cotton and will also prevent you from truly getting the most from your device. Get that FSK setting right in the beginning with an atty and if you have to mess with it to get a decent vape later something is wrong. Loose post screws, spaced coils that somehow got compressed and accidentally jacking with the devices settings all come to mind as things that have happened to me and I started jacking with the FSK percentage that was working fine only to regret it.

You can get the FSK set up correctly by installing your deck from your atomizer with the wicked coil installed onto your device. Just wet the cotton a little. Start low and keep bumping up the FSK values until you get a tiny bit of vapor from the coil when you hit the fire button and stop. Assemble your atomizer and vape. If done correctly you should be good to go. Sometimes I may have to work the FSK value a tiny bit in either direction once I fully assemble an atomizer. I know what my preferred lower temp vape setting (390) should taste/feel like so I test it and adjust the FSK values as needed. I totally stole the process from Ray and he explains it much better. It's worth digging up in this thread and reading. The vape is phenomenal once you're set up correctly.

Once set up correctly I only need concern myself with the temperature I prefer to vape at...true temp control, finally. Learn to think of watts as a means to control how quickly the coil heats. Set up correctly that is their only function for me with these devices.

I vape mostly SS and have went back now to using kanthal. I thought I would never use that feature of the HT devices and didn't understand why Hohmtech focused on it so much but it's a great vape when set up right. Those are two of the harder wire types for TC devices to read but this device does it well. Put in the time to learn this device and change how you think about using TC devices and the rewards are many.

Post screws have to be snug with kanthal and I have better luck vaping kanthal with spaced coils. A small adjustment of .1 or .2 in either direction can make a big difference with kanthal whereas other wires won't show much difference at such small adjustments.

It's a really simple idea. Just get the FSK set right from the beginning with any atomizer/coil combo and then all you have to worry about is temp and ramp up time (watts) if you're in xXx mode.

 

[Paratech]

A couple things...

I have two of those same atomizers and they work fine on my Hohmslice or G2. However I have had the damaged or connect atimizer message show up from time to time.

First...you must hit the fire button with no atomizer attached when swapping atty's and make sure the device registers 0 ohms before you install another atomizer.

Second, make a mental note of the resistance reading for the atty you removed and it's even better if you already know the resistance of the atty you will be installing (check on a handy mod or ohm meter). Make sure the device reads the new atty's resistance. Every now and then the device may try to revert back to the previous atomizers resistance reading. I haven't figured out why. Just repeat disconnecting the atomizer from the device (spin it out a few turns) and hit the fire button with no atomizer connected making sure it reads 0 ohms, then reconnect and try again. Most of the time this clears the memory of the old atty and updates to the new atty and you're off to the races. If not then turning the device off and back on then hitting the fire button with no atty attached should do the trick. On the very rare occasion that did not make the device read the new atomizer I've went into power mode to fire the new atomizer a couple times. Upon returning to TC mode the device would have read the correct resistance. What's nice is that if you power the device off or change batteries the device retains the setting for the atty that was on it when either of those two occurred so you don't have to reset anything. I think though that for some reason the devices sometimes don't quite get the message that there has been an atty swap.

With kanthal and really any wire but especially kanthal the coil must be room temp when intially connected to the device. If the device fires it even a little during any of the tomfoolery above then your resistance reading will be off and you must set that atty aside to cool to room temp and start over.

Third... If you successfully connect a new atomizer and the device reads the resistance correctly for the new atty but you still get the damaged atomizer message then your FSK percentage is off. Say you went from a SS coil and had your FSK set for 15.5% but you install a kanthal coil then obviously the device is going to think there is a problem with the atty since the resistance is wonky. Drop the FSK percentage down into the acceptable range for kanthal and it will quite reading damaged atomizer. This is usually how I remedy the "damaged atomizer" warning message.For me kanthal builds have been working on FSK settings of 1.6 to 3.5. For connecting new attys I set the device for 2 and fine tune from there.

All the above is assuming you're in xXx mode!

Thank you for posting this saving me from doing it.
All of it is correct but your third note is where I spent most of my time figuring out.

 

[PlumberMike]

Just received my G2 today and was wondering if I have to use spaced coils in XXX mode? I am using dual SS 316L wire at 0.64 ohms with the FSK at 14%, 50 watts & 450F.
I have never used a TC Mod before & this G2 is giving a great vape!

 

[Deucesjack]

Just received my G2 today and was wondering if I have to use spaced coils in XXX mode? I am using dual SS 316L wire at 0.64 ohms with the FSK at 14%, 50 watts & 450F.
I have never used a TC Mod before & this G2 is giving a great vape!

You can use anything in xxx mode, that's the whole beauty of it.

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[PlumberMike]

You can use anything in xxx mode, that's the whole beauty of it.

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Thanks!
So, not using spaced coils are okay right? I read somewhere that spaced coils were required when using true TC? Would that be correct if I used the SS preset on this mod?

 

[DavidOH]

@Infinite1 I have pretty much the same thing with my 510 but it depends on which atty I use. Some work better than others. It does feel loose but I think it is what was used in all the g2 mods.

I am sure youtube videos will arise on changing a 510 in a g2.

I feel the same about the 510. It should have a stronger spring. Comes down to it I have a Fat Daddy spring 510 that feels a little stronger. But that's for later maybe.

 

[Deucesjack]

Thanks!
So, not using spaced coils are okay right? I read somewhere that spaced coils were required when using true TC? Would that be correct if I used the SS preset on this mod?

You're good.

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[TDC123]

With SS I don't have any trouble with spaced vs compressed coils. In the Boreas or the Aromamizer Supreme I have some fat dual fused claptons that really fill up the atomizer chamber. It actually seems to work better with compressed coils but that may be an atomizer/coil thing more than a device thing.

With kanthal the device seems to work better with spaced.

 

[joeyboy]

I am using my first spaced kanthal coils now. SS much easier but kanthal tastes good.

 

[DavidOH]

Okay it took a number of tries to figure it out but the update is in. Anyone having trouble with win10 you have to do a few things. I had to install the driver. And I had to download the firmware and put it in the updater file. Then follow the directions in the updater PDF. It still didn't see the mod but it updated anyway.

Tomorrow I'll change the wick in the Mutation X 2/3/4 and see about getting TC setup.

 

[Infinite1]

Okay it took a number of tries to figure it out but the update is in. Anyone having trouble with win10 you have to do a few things. I had to install the driver. And I had to download the firmware and put it in the updater file. Then follow the directions in the updater PDF. It still didn't see the mod but it updated anyway.

Tomorrow I'll change the wick in the Mutation X 2/3/4 and see about getting TC setup.

Nice. Glad you got yours updated!

I had a pretty easy time updating on my Win 7 machine today!! It took a little fiddling and primarily because I just don't use PCs all that much anymore...

2.5 has a noticeable refinement to TC. More like my DNAs, which I'm not sure I like . I kinda like the beasty nature of 2.4.7. This of course could all be placebo, but I feel it :wink:

Cheers!!

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[Infinite1]

Edit to my post above. Battery was at about 30% noticeable drop in flavor and vapor production. Will keep a not of this. All good on a fresh set of batts.

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[Deucesjack]

Edit to my post above. Battery was at about 30% noticeable drop in flavor and vapor production. Will keep a not of this. All good on a fresh set of batts.

Sent from a random device, most likely a LG V10

Yeah, once you get under 40% she kind of hits like a wet noodle. Most mods do that though.

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[joeyboy]

@Infinite1 I used a 2.5.5 version g2 today and did think it was different than my 2 4.7 version g2 and 1.2.3 slice. Wasn't sure if that was in my head or not.

Edit: performance. Liked 2.4.7 better. Unsure

 

[Infinite1]

Yeah, once you get under 40% she kind of hits like a wet noodle. Most mods do that though.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk

Indeed... however my DNAs or IPV don't. Forgot about how prevalent that is with mods. Hopefully better battery refinement in future updates. I might check out the battery saver mode to see if it balances it out a bit. From my early experimentation with it, the vape got a bit too anemic by comparison.

So much to play with to dial in. Anyone use batt saver setting with success?

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[Deucesjack]

Indeed... however my DNAs or IPV don't. Forgot about how prevalent that is with mods. Hopefully better battery refinement in future updates. I might check out the battery saver mode to see if it balances it out a bit. From my early experimentation with it, the vape got a bit too anemic by comparison.

So much to play with to dial in. Anyone use batt saver setting with success?

Sent from a random device, most likely a LG V10

The DNA get weak under 30% and the Ipv5 is good till around 20%. Imo.

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[Infinite1]

@Infinite1 I used a 2.5.5 version g2 today and did think it was different than my 2 4.7 version g2 and 1.2.3 slice. Wasn't sure if that was in my head or not.

Edit: performance. Liked 2.4.7 better. Unsure

Ha ha... thanks for that. I really thought it was in my head!

Now if I only had 2 G2s I could do a side by side...I smell another purchase for this and other reasons "rationalizations begin here...now" lol

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[Infinite1]

The DNA get weak under 30% and the Ipv5 is good till around 20%. Imo.

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I find that both get noticeable around 20% but then again with the DNA ,it could be that my battery meter is not dialed in completely or has drifted with battery age .

 

[DavidOH]

Not sure if anyone needs this but here it is....

 

[Infinite1]

I built up the Herakles 4, today's vape mail with twisted 28G SS 430/ 22G SS 317L and get great range of flavor depending on mode. Still working to find the best XXX FSK curve but in just plain old watts mode, silky smooth warm with great flavor and vapor production!

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[Paratech]

Now if I only had 2 G2s I could do a side by side

I have 3, what would you like tested?

 

[joeyboy]

I am happy with all my products. I have all the updates dl'd so I can update the other to the latest if I want. Could be placebo like you mentioned or the fact that I flooded the crap out of the tank at first and it took a bit for it to settle down. Either way, all are keepers and still love these things.

 

[DavidOH]

Okay.... I build the top I'm going to use juice and all. Let it sit to level the temp. Then set the G2 for kanthal put the top and vape. The G2 will be in default settings. Then adjust with the FSK to taste. And if I can't get what I like switch to xXx mode and start over. Or start in xXx mode. I'm guessing it has default settings.

If I change tops I hit the fire button to clear the settings so it adjust to the new top. Making sure it's at room temp of course.

Does that sound right?

 

[joeyboy]

@DavidOH Xxx has no default settings. Start at 2 for kanthal and work up. The higher the fsk the hotter the vape. If it does not vape the fsk is not high enough.

 

[Infinite1]

I have 3, what would you like tested?

Nice!

I was wondering if there really was a difference in vape between 2.4.7 and 2.5? If you are able to do a controlled test with either 2 same toppers/build or the same atty, I would love to hear your experience!

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[DavidOH]

@DavidOH Xxx has no default settings. Start at 2 for kanthal and work up. The higher the fsk the hotter the vape. If it does not vape the fsk is not high enough.

Okay but what temp to start at?

 

[Infinite1]

I am happy with all my products. I have all the updates dl'd so I can update the other to the latest if I want. Could be placebo like you mentioned or the fact that I flooded the crap out of the tank at first and it took a bit for it to settle down. Either way, all are keepers and still love these things.

For sure. I'm contemplating s second myself and never buy 2 of a kind! I just ordered a JWrap for the silver is too bright for my taste, I really wanted the burnt orange. I might pick the LE burnt orange soon!

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[Infinite1]

Okay but what temp to start at?

I would star pretty low there too. 350 maybe? I usu vape at around 450-510 depending on build and/or Atty

I hope that helps!

Overall it's about finding what you like, then look at the numbers to find out what that is.

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[DavidOH]

Okay I have a 1.09ohm ribbon coil in the Lemo 2. I'm have it at 350 degrees at 40 watts in auto+TC and the FSK is 3.2. The vape is good and it must be working because the Lemo2 isn't getting very warm and it should be for the number of hits I've taken. I'll I'll try the dripper later so I can run it dry. Then I'll know I have it down.

What battery mode are most of you using?

 

[joeyboy]

Okay but what temp to start at?

I vape lower than most. I vape at 430 or 440 pretty much all the time with watts set no higher than 50. If the watts are too low it won't get to temp or it will take too long. If the watts are too high, like 101, it can burn.

 

[joeyboy]

I don't use auto.

 

[Infinite1]

I don't use auto.

This is a good tip. Just tried XXX without auto and like it. One question though, I can adjust watts, but how do I adjust temp? I've not seen a way to do so???

Thanks man!

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[PlumberMike]

Hit fire button 3X and it's switches back & forth from Temp to watts so you can adjust each

 

[Infinite1]

Hit fire button 3X and it's switches back & forth from Temp to watts so you can adjust each

Brilliant. Thanks!!

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[Deucesjack]

Adjust the FSK curve till you find a vape you like. Then fine tune it via wattage and temp. It takes a little trial and error but boy once you dial it in you're in for something special. That's my only knock on this mod is I wish it had custom presets so I could save my settings for the tanks I use. I'm getting to old to remember what tanks do best at what settings. Lol

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[joeyboy]

The fsk affects the overall heat of the vape.

 

[joeyboy]

Adjust the FSK curve till you find a vape you like. Then fine tune it via wattage and temp. It takes a little trial and error but boy once you dial it in you're in for something special. That's my only knock on this mod is I wish it had custom presets so I could save my settings for the tanks I use. I'm getting to old to remember what tanks do best at what settings. Lol

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Only because you are down to two tanks.

 

[Deucesjack]

Only because you are down to two tanks.

Lol, wise ass.

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[Infinite1]

Are you guys powering down between extended vape sessions like between what would normally be a "cig break"? I ask because I'm noticing batt drop over a few hours of non use? Anyone else exp this?

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[Infinite1]

Hit fire button 3X and it's switches back & forth from Temp to watts so you can adjust each

I thought I had it, went to try and there was no way to do it there...it displays Digital watts mode but any button I press just cases an exit of the screen setting. I'm then returned to basic watts mode...I think it's time to read the manual (RTFM) lol

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[DavidOH]

I thought I had it, went to try and there was no way to do it there...it displays Digital watts mode but any button I press just cases an exit of the screen setting. I'm then returned to basic watts mode...I think it's time to read the manual (RTFM) lol

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You have it right. Fire 3 quick clicks, wait 1 sec and the screen will flip the watts and temp. Then + or - ....

 

[Infinite1]

You have it right. Fire 3 quick clicks, wait 1 sec and the screen will flip the watts and temp. Then + or - ....

I think I understand, it seems that mine is not flipping tho. Is it automatic? Or when I see the Digital mode screen, just let it exit on its own- no button pressing? Sorry for being so dense on this one

EDIT: RTM helps a lot.. lol, I was pressing the "mode" button... not the Fire button 3 times!!! duh. I'm gonna dive more into the manual now that I have fumbled my way through it and getting some good results!
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[joeyboy]

Are you guys powering down between extended vape sessions like between what would normally be a "cig break"? I ask because I'm noticing batt drop over a few hours of non use? Anyone else exp this?

Sent from a random device, most likely a LG V10

I do. I haven't noticed because I never leave mods on.

 

[Deucesjack]

I think I understand, it seems that mine is not flipping tho. Is it automatic? Or when I see the Digital mode screen, just let it exit on its own- no button pressing? Sorry for being so dense on this one

EDIT: RTM helps a lot.. lol, I was pressing the "mode" button... not the Fire button 3 times!!! duh. I'm gonna dive more into the manual now that I have fumbled my way through it and getting some good results!
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Yeah with this mod you definitely have to read the manual. It also helps to watch some of the Hohmtech videos.

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