I could think of way worse things to be addicted to.
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Hohm wrecker g2
- Thread starter Rfarty
- Start date
Well, the Geekvape Eagle might be just the ticket for you then.
http://www.myvaporstore.com/GeekVape-Eagle-Top-Airflow-Sub-Ohm-Tank-p/gva030.htm
I'm not a DNA fanboy even though I own several DNA mods and I just ordered the Dotbox DNA300. I'm done buying mods unless: Slice LE goes on sale - I'd like a couple more even though the paint chips on them- or Hohm tech gets their butt in gear and come out with something new. I made the mistake of saying that I'd like to see the FSK chip in the VF rather than the DNA133 in the Triade 250 thread. Scary.....them folks really shit bricks when you don't drool over the exalted DNA.
Yes, it is a good chip, but the FSK hits harder and is easier to use (once you get the hang of it) on the fly. The fact that the FSK chip will TC any wire in xXx mode leaves all other chips waaaay behind.
Yes, it is a good chip, but the FSK hits harder and is easier to use (once you get the hang of it) on the fly. The fact that the FSK chip will TC any wire in xXx mode leaves all other chips waaaay behind.
@uniman4, do this with the G2. Take off your tank, hit the fire button. That should zero out the previous tank resistance. Screw in the new atty.Press the fire button. It will register the new coil's resistance. Personally, I use the xXx TCmode for all my tanks and I haven't had a problem so far. The only time I burned a coil was with another mod when the little 
jumped from TC to power mode. It really sucks when that happens. I have a supertank mini rta around here, I'll try to find it, put it on the G2 and see how it does.
You probably know this, but it bears repeating, make sure you juice up the new coil.
jumped from TC to power mode. It really sucks when that happens. I have a supertank mini rta around here, I'll try to find it, put it on the G2 and see how it does.You probably know this, but it bears repeating, make sure you juice up the new coil.
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Now, now, Bear don't you dare say anything negative about the DNA. Certain people here will have you tarred and feathered for even thinking that way. How dare you compare any other board to the great and powerful DNA. Blasphemy! Lol.I'm not a DNA fanboy even though I own several DNA mods and I just ordered the Dotbox DNA300. I'm done buying mods unless: Slice LE goes on sale - I'd like a couple more even though the paint chips on them- or Hohm tech gets their butt in gear and come out with something new. I made the mistake of saying that I'd like to see the FSK chip in the VF rather than the DNA133 in the Triade 250 thread. Scary.....them folks really shit bricks when you don't drool over the exalted DNA.
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I bought 3 sets (12 batteries) from this guy (GenuineCells)(eBay) that I found in a Vapor Joe deal a while back. Great price and guaranteed authentic.
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I have to buy from NZ for batteries, haven't found anyone who will ship here
Well crap, I forgot you were from NZ.
That's ok mate. We have problems with little things. Like frigging Hobbits but everything else is pretty cool.Well crap, I forgot you were from NZ.
That is definitely on my wish list, we both might want to get them soon though, fasttech stopped carrying all Dotmod clones, they must have got slapped with a legal injunction, rare but happens.
I just saw it back on the FT site https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10028083/6163400-sxk-pti-styled-rta-rebuildable-tank-atomizer
Something is just not right, I have a Supertank regular and 2 25mm and have never just burnt a coil. I do have problems with the original tobeco coils from time to time though but never once a problem with my preferred Aspire coils in the Supertank.
Like has been mentioned earlier on the G2 you have to hit the fire button to clear the last tank BUT you also need to screw down the new tank within 15 to 30 seconds and hit the fire button. If you don't do it fast enough the G2 will still register the last tank and read wrong. Sometimes it just takes unscrewing the new tank until it doesn't register then screwing it back down and hitting the fire button.
ohhhhh, they had to take out all Dotmod references....sneaky....lol
You say that like it's a bad thing.
Sorry you're having troubles with yours, maybe I've just been lucky.
I have 4 Super Tanks and 5 G2s, all of them work together.
Once in a while I may have to remove the ST from the G2, hit the fire button, then reconnect but over the handful of months that I've had them, not may times.
I use the .2Ω coils.
I should have picked up a second Silver LE, instead I a Red LE fell into the cart... Hopefully it is just as much of a power house as the silver ones are.
How not to have new vape gear stand out, order a bright Red one...
WAF
How not to have new vape gear stand out, order a bright Red one...
WAF
It'll be ok, besides the red is so purdy!I should have picked up a second Silver LE, instead I a Red LE fell into the cart... Hopefully it is just as much of a power house as the silver ones are.
How not to have new vape gear stand out, order a bright Red one...
WAF
Ughhh this thread and my current G2 make me want another one, only thing holding me back right now is it won't fire with my Kennedy :-(
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That's strange as I'm running a Kennedy on mine right now. Try taking the atty off and push in the pin on the 510 connector a few times with a q-tip and see if that helps. I've had to do that to get it to fire on one of my attys.
Really? I've tried everything and even contacted them, the guy I spoke with said I'm not the first to have this issue. What Kennedy are you using? And I'm assuming it's authentic?
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I believe it's a 24, and have no idea if authentic or not, it belongs to my stepson, he's letting be try it out.
Hmm mines the 22, I'll have to take it out and toss a build in it and give it a go.
Well damn, we tried. Maybe someone else will have a suggestion. Good luck getting it worked out.
BTW, are you getting the bad atty error message?
It must have an almost flush 510 screw. My Petri would give the same error, I took out the 510 screw and put a small chamfer on the edge of the screw head which fixed it. The Petri's 510 screw has a large diameter head so it would short against the G2's 510 ground. Not enough for an Atomizer Short message, but just enough to give a very small resistance measurement. That will give you the Ohms Too Low error message.
Try a small o-ring under your 510 screw to raise it out a bit if it sits too flush or reduce the diameter of the head.
It sticks out a hair less them my goons and both of them work perfectly. It works on all my other mods just not the G2
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Just a thought, is the screw head the same diameter as the Goons?
Non adjustable on the Kennedy :-/
Visually they look similar in size, non adjustable pin on the Kennedy.
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The legendary Silver. Whisper "Great White Buffalo". Lol.Already got my vapor cube package, this silver G2 LE has an extra gear over my others.....lol
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Yep, my next one is gonna be silver. I just hope I can handle all that additional power!Already got my vapor cube package, this silver G2 LE has an extra gear over my others.....lol
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Already got my vapor cube package, this silver G2 LE has an extra gear over my others.....lol
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You must be on the west coast.
Nice
I got a G2 in my cart in vaporcube and apply the code and realized that they don't ship to my country, I'm in Indonesia btw.. Dropped them an email to ask if they will consider to ship to my country but received no response. I couldn't find any local shop selling this, buying at normal price will only caused me a huge import tax. I'm out of luck I guess...
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What would you guys recommend as baseline settings for playing with Kanthal something like a. .09 dual framed staple?
SirRichardRear
AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube
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Kenthal mode and around 65% fsk curveWhat would you guys recommend as baseline settings for playing with Kanthal something like a. .09 dual framed staple?
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Sure, looking forward to hear from them.
The default in xxx mode is 3.2% FSK. I would just start there and bump it up until you find your sweet spot. Hohmtech recommends bumping up or down the FSK about 10% each time.What would you guys recommend as baseline settings for playing with Kanthal something like a. .09 dual framed staple?
Personally I find kanthal to be anywere between 3% to 11.5% in xxx mode. I use the SS mode now after the last update instead of xxx. For kanthal I am just use to xxx so find it easier for me. Since your new to the FSK board trying the kanthal mode first might be the way to go, just use @SirRichardRear suggestions.
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For those who are getting there first G2 it is advisable to read the owners manul to familiarize with how it works. It is different than other mods but once you get it down it becomes real easy.
Here are a few quick tips that frequently get asked:
To change modes hit the mode button 3 times, to get to the next screen hit the mode button 3 more times. There are 3 sections and they round robin, just have to hit the mode button 3 times to cycle through.
To get to the menu section to adjust FSK and other values press and hold the mode button and the + - buttons at the same time for a few seconds. This is also the section were you will find the upgrade port which needs to be turned on to make firmware upgrades.
There is a video on hohmtech's website on how to do the firmware update. Just click on the Wrecker G2 product page, it will be there along with the updater and firmware files. It is definitely a good idea to watch the video.
To switch from temperature to power and back hit the fire button 3 times quickly.
When switching tanks you need to take off the first tank, hit the fire button so it says connect attomizer. This will clear the previous ohms of the last tank. You only have a certain amount of time to attach the next tank, not sure how long but something like 15 to 30 seconds. If you take too long it might revert back to the previous tanks settings. I normally out of habit attach the next tank barely so it doesn't make connection, press the fire button a couple of times to clear, then screw down the next tank and hit the fire button. Rarely do I have to do it a second time but it does happen.
There is a ton of info in this thread and a lot of helpful people. If you run into problems feel free to ask.
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Here are a few quick tips that frequently get asked:
To change modes hit the mode button 3 times, to get to the next screen hit the mode button 3 more times. There are 3 sections and they round robin, just have to hit the mode button 3 times to cycle through.
To get to the menu section to adjust FSK and other values press and hold the mode button and the + - buttons at the same time for a few seconds. This is also the section were you will find the upgrade port which needs to be turned on to make firmware upgrades.
There is a video on hohmtech's website on how to do the firmware update. Just click on the Wrecker G2 product page, it will be there along with the updater and firmware files. It is definitely a good idea to watch the video.
To switch from temperature to power and back hit the fire button 3 times quickly.
When switching tanks you need to take off the first tank, hit the fire button so it says connect attomizer. This will clear the previous ohms of the last tank. You only have a certain amount of time to attach the next tank, not sure how long but something like 15 to 30 seconds. If you take too long it might revert back to the previous tanks settings. I normally out of habit attach the next tank barely so it doesn't make connection, press the fire button a couple of times to clear, then screw down the next tank and hit the fire button. Rarely do I have to do it a second time but it does happen.
There is a ton of info in this thread and a lot of helpful people. If you run into problems feel free to ask.
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Resetting the resistance is the biggest newbie mistake. Make sure you hit that fire button with no atty attached.
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