ORCHID MODIFICATION THREAD

TheWestPole · Feb 11, 2015

I can't believe how long it took me to get around to focusing on optimizing Orchid's flavor production.

It's clear to me why it did: too many changing variables in my vaping learning curve in the last four months. Starting with rebuildables of various different atty types; starting with Orchid, perfecting wicking, airfow, capacity, etc.; decreasing my nic all along the way while starting DIY juice making with all those variables; and perhaps most importantly increasing my VG. I began with 100% PG, a hold over from getting my early clearomizers and glassomizers to wick generously, and now I'm at 80% VG. With those radically changing viscosities and juice flow characteristics, I had to put juice flow modifications to the side.

Now that I've settled more or less at 80/20 with maxed out air flow, and am focusing on flavor production (what my recent efforts are all about), I'm getting the most dramatic improvement in RTA vaping experience I've had since I got my first Orchid V1.

Yes, all you veteran vapers, I do feel like an idiot, or at least a slow learner. But at last I see (taste?) the light, and Orchid can indeed get me to it. My drippers no longer look to me like masters of the flavor universe.

sohkis · Feb 11, 2015

modifications look great!

i might have to send an orchid or two of mine out to you for some optimization, that is of course if you're up to it! haha

pwnby · Feb 11, 2015

I'd be willing to send a couple orchids and a check lol

TheWestPole · Feb 11, 2015

sohkis said:
modifications look great! i might have to send an orchid or two of mine out to you for some optimization, that is of course if you're up to it! haha

pwnby said:
I'd be willing to send a couple orchids and a check lol

I promise to be better about posting pics and how-to notes about this. I have no access to a machine shop and do everything in my garage with modest tools, like many of you have. Does take time though. If I figured my labor based on what my job pays hourly, these little projects would be unjustifiable. Thankfully, I'm an enthusiast not a pro, and simply do not figure things that way.

teverill · Feb 12, 2015

Love your work on the orchid west pole!! Inspired me to break out the dremel!!

I have just received the orchid mini from fasttech with the wide bore chimney, this thing is a whole mother step up again!! I have used the chimney and top cap from the mini, the base of a infinite clone which has milled air hole raises and a taifun nano tank, works a treat!!
You can't screw the chimney all the way down with the nano tank but then I never did before, hope this helps a few of you.

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TheWestPole · Feb 12, 2015

teverill said:
Love your work on the orchid west pole!! Inspired me to break out the dremel!!

I have just received the orchid mini from fasttech with the wide bore chimney, this thing is a whole mother step up again!! I have used the chimney and top cap from the mini, the base of a infinite clone which has milled air hole raises and a taifun nano tank, works a treat!!
You can't screw the chimney all the way down with the nano tank but then I never did before, hope this helps a few of you.

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Cool.

Just as I expected, that chimney comes up about 1mm short for the Taifun GT nano tank. Looks like you got it together and working fine though. That extra capacity is really needed, don't ya think?

teverill · Feb 12, 2015

yea the extra capacity is very needed! This orchid has shelved my dippers, but with the normal tank it may swell be a dripper!

TheWestPole · Feb 12, 2015

New on FT: Taifun GT-T one piece tank. Will work if you make an adapter like the other Taifun GT caps. Until the tall bell cap from the V6 Style D becomes available, it's another way to go.

Screenshot 2015-02-12 at 10.29.37 AM.png

http://www.fasttech.com/product/2154201

CosmicVapor · Feb 13, 2015

What is the best build for this thing?

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TheWestPole · Feb 13, 2015

CosmicVapor said:
What is the best build for this thing?

anendeloflorien · Feb 13, 2015

CosmicVapor said:
What is the best build for this thing?

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I just got my first orchid so I am by no means a pro with the setup yet but I used @franciscan "Mickey Mouse" orchid build on mine and it's been working beautifully! Perfect airflow and it's super tasty.
http://vapingunderground.com/thread...famous-mickey-mouse-ears-orchid-builds.32290/

My setup. 30g, 12 wraps, 2.0 mm ID, 1.3 ohms I have it wicked with rayon and I can run it up to 30W on my box mod with no issues whatsoever.

Rommel · Feb 13, 2015

I've tried pretty much everything, but nothing can compare with the 28 gauge quads. Or 27? Something like that. 0.2ish ohms and pretty amazing at 40w.

CosmicVapor · Feb 13, 2015

Thanks for all the suggestions, one would think with a .4 build you would get amazing flavor eh? That's what I get for rebuilding lol

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pwnby · Feb 13, 2015

I get good flavor with a simple dual coil 26ga at 8 wraps for .5 ohms. Definitely gonna do the 28ga quads next tho!

TheWestPole · Feb 15, 2015

TheWestPole said:
FYI friends, a few notes on the V6 Style D.

The outstanding features here remain the unique tall bell cap and the useful two-piece chimney. The base is a pro and con situation that you might want to consider before buying.

Pro: Pulling the plastic air tubes in the deck results in 2.8mm air holes. Personally, that's a size I'm very happy with, so no need to drill out further. Still have to do the sides though.

View attachment 14587

Stock.

View attachment 14588

Air tubes pulled.

View attachment 14589

Con: Style D also uses this type of adjustable 510 contact screw. I am not a fan of it. Wasn't a fan if it on the Erlkonigin either.

View attachment 14590

The threads are too loose and it changes setting to easily. As a result, you can work the screw down to this position simply by tightening the atty. This can spell non-contact or short depending on your mod. So you have to pay attention to it all the time. I prefer that the 510 pin stay put at the right spot and do my adjustments on the mod side.

View attachment 14591

Of course, you can always resort to conductive thread locker or epoxy. Personally, I would very much like to avoid that in the interests if easy disassembly.

Conclusion: I want the tank. I want several of them. I want them now, but have to wait. The rest I can do without, can get a la carte, or can get better, in the case of the base.

I have updated my comments on the V6 Style D with the tall bell cap. Might want to check it out.

http://vapingunderground.com/threads/orchid-modification-thread.20819/page-22#post-310781

M5amhan · Feb 15, 2015

TheWestPole said:
I can't believe how long it took me to get around to focusing on optimizing Orchid's flavor production.

It's clear to me why it did: too many changing variables in my vaping learning curve in the last four months. Starting with rebuildables of various different atty types; starting with Orchid, perfecting wicking, airfow, capacity, etc.; decreasing my nic all along the way while starting DIY juice making with all those variables; and perhaps most importantly increasing my VG. I began with 100% PG, a hold over from getting my early clearomizers and glassomizers to wick generously, and now I'm at 80% VG. With those radically changing viscosities and juice flow characteristics, I had to put juice flow modifications to the side.

Now that I've settled more or less at 80/20 with maxed out air flow, and am focusing on flavor production (what my recent efforts are all about), I'm getting the most dramatic improvement in RTA vaping experience I've had since I got my first Orchid V1.

Yes, all you veteran vapers, I do feel like an idiot, or at least a slow learner. But at last I see (taste?) the light, and Orchid can indeed get me to it. My drippers no longer look to me like masters of the flavor universe.

i started on the same journey since ive been using the orchid base. i usually use 3/32 or even 7/64th diameter coils in the kayfun style builds decks so enough juice is always in the coil so theres never dry hits. but with how efficient the orchid wicking is you can cut down the size of the coil and still always have enough juice coming in.

so i put in a 5/64th build and holy crap that flavor jumped x10. couldnt believe how huge the difference was and i started thinking about it. the conclusion i came to was that since the coil is smaller, it burns up the juice faster. since the orchid is so efficient at wicking its always supplying more juice. so what im thinking is that its the quick supply of fresh juice paired with how fast the juice is vaped in a smaller coil, fresh juice (as opposed to juice already sitting in the coil being heated) = better flavor.

does that make sense to anyone? lol

CosmicVapor · Feb 15, 2015

Is the pin on the v4 adjustable ?

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Rommel · Feb 15, 2015

CosmicVapor said:
Is the pin on the v4 adjustable ?

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Nope.

pwnby · Feb 15, 2015

M5amhan said:
i started on the same journey since ive been using the orchid base. i usually use 3/32 or even 7/64th diameter coils in the kayfun style builds decks so enough juice is always in the coil so theres never dry hits. but with how efficient the orchid wicking is you can cut down the size of the coil and still always have enough juice coming in.

so i put in a 5/64th build and holy crap that flavor jumped x10. couldnt believe how huge the difference was and i started thinking about it. the conclusion i came to was that since the coil is smaller, it burns up the juice faster. since the orchid is so efficient at wicking its always supplying more juice. so what im thinking is that its the quick supply of fresh juice paired with how fast the juice is vaped in a smaller coil, fresh juice (as opposed to juice already sitting in the coil being heated) = better flavor.

does that make sense to anyone? lol

I've noticed as well that smaller diameter coils put off better flavor. I always use the same screwdriver regardless of whether its for an RDA or RTA.

Robert B · Feb 15, 2015

CosmicVapor said:
Is the pin on the v4 adjustable ?

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It's adjustable on my v4

Rommel · Feb 15, 2015

Oh. Well in the Tobeco clones it isnt.

fq06 · Feb 15, 2015

teverill said:
Love your work on the orchid west pole!! Inspired me to break out the dremel!!

I have just received the orchid mini from fasttech with the wide bore chimney, this thing is a whole mother step up again!! I have used the chimney and top cap from the mini, the base of a infinite clone which has milled air hole raises and a taifun nano tank, works a treat!!
You can't screw the chimney all the way down with the nano tank but then I never did before, hope this helps a few of you.

Damn it! My tracking is still hung up in china sorting complete... I think it got lost on the boat or something. Never had it take this long once it's on it's way out of China!
I am so excited to check the fatty chimney out of course shipment is having issues!!

Grrr... tapping toes not so patiently

M5amhan · Feb 15, 2015

pwnby said:
I've noticed as well that smaller diameter coils put off better flavor. I always use the same screwdriver regardless of whether its for an RDA or RTA.

yea just havent had a tank that could wick 5/64th as well as i wanted, but with orchids it seems like the perfect size

CosmicVapor · Feb 16, 2015

Robert B said:
It's adjustable on my v4

View attachment 14606

Which one do you have? If you don't mind me asking.

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TheWestPole · Feb 16, 2015

M5amhan said:
i started on the same journey since ive been using the orchid base. i usually use 3/32 or even 7/64th diameter coils in the kayfun style builds decks so enough juice is always in the coil so theres never dry hits. but with how efficient the orchid wicking is you can cut down the size of the coil and still always have enough juice coming in.

so i put in a 5/64th build and holy crap that flavor jumped x10. couldnt believe how huge the difference was and i started thinking about it. the conclusion i came to was that since the coil is smaller, it burns up the juice faster. since the orchid is so efficient at wicking its always supplying more juice. so what im thinking is that its the quick supply of fresh juice paired with how fast the juice is vaped in a smaller coil, fresh juice (as opposed to juice already sitting in the coil being heated) = better flavor.

does that make sense to anyone? lol

Interesting. I bumped up from 5/64" ID coils a while ago and haven't gone back. Perhaps I should reconsider. Might as well as I'm reconsidering everything else having to do with flavor.

My post was more about matching juice flow to airflow to intensify flavor. The stock juice channels and air holes are pretty well matched, even for pretty high VG. Open your airflow way up and you've got a moving target however. Don't yet know where I think the ideal ratio is, or if there really is one, but the stock ratio of juice channel area (including intrusion of the threads) to air hole area is 1:1.6. That would appear to be a decent starting point when increasing either.

While I'm working on that I'm going to stay with a common coil size (3/32") for comparison purposes. After that, a round of coil and wick changes.

TheWestPole · Feb 16, 2015

pwnby said:
I've noticed as well that smaller diameter coils put off better flavor. I always use the same screwdriver regardless of whether its for an RDA or RTA.

What size?

TheWestPole · Feb 16, 2015

fq06 said:
Damn it! My tracking is still hung up in china sorting complete... I think it got lost on the boat or something. Never had it take this long once it's on it's way out of China!
I am so excited to check the fatty chimney out of course shipment is having issues!!

Grrr... tapping toes not so patiently

I've had the same problem recently. Plus other processing issues. Stuff listed as in stock not shipping within a whole week of ordering. I cancelled a few orders because of that. Meanwhile four orders are taking too long. Hope it's all national holiday distortions.

Robert B · Feb 16, 2015

CosmicVapor said:
Which one do you have? If you don't mind me asking.

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I think it's this one. Got it some time ago.
Added the clear tanks here

CosmicVapor · Feb 16, 2015

Yeah I have a v4 tobecco/tobeco clone. I just tried to move the pin and it works.

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pwnby · Feb 16, 2015

TheWestPole said:
What size?

I believe it's a 5/64, but not 100% sure. I'm sitting at the dentist now, I'll check when I get home.

CaFF · Feb 16, 2015

Robert B said:
It's adjustable on my v4

View attachment 14606

It's adjustable on both of mine.
One from Focal, the other from Cigabuy. (one is a brass 510 & other is copper)

TheWestPole · Feb 16, 2015

CosmicVapor said:
Yeah I have a v4 tobecco/tobeco clone. I just tried to move the pin and it works.

FWIW, if it's this original style it's not really adjustable, because the contact pin also retains the center post. You can unscrew it a bit to raise the contact off the insulator, but it will work it's way back, raising and loosening the center post in the process. Keep these screwed down.

Rommel · Feb 16, 2015

If mine is even a quarter turn loose the ohms go shitty. So not really adjustable

CaFF · Feb 16, 2015

TheWestPole said:
FWIW, if it's this original style it's not really adjustable, because the contact pin also retains the center post. You can unscrew it a bit to raise the contact off the insulator, but it will work it's way back, raising and loosening the center post in the process. Keep these screwed down.

Ahh...a very good point.
I've kept mine tightened normally as the mods have the adjustable 510s. But, I just knew that mine did unscrew a bit.

CosmicVapor · Feb 16, 2015

TheWestPole said:
FWIW, if it's this original style it's not really adjustable, because the contact pin also retains the center post. You can unscrew it a bit to raise the contact off the insulator, but it will work it's way back, raising and loosening the center post in the process. Keep these screwed down.

Hmm thanks, my colonial mod is not accepting my orchid. It works on other mods and other attys work on it. Any suggestions l?

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Citizen · Feb 16, 2015

CosmicVapor said:
Hmm thanks, my colonial mod is not accepting my orchid. It works on other mods and other attys work on it. Any suggestions l?

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I don't know if you have the means to do so but what I did was actually make new insulators. I made the bottom insulator a little bit longer than the stock one so when it's tightened down the pin protrudes farther than it did before.

CosmicVapor · Feb 16, 2015

Will look into that, thank you!

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TheWestPole · Feb 16, 2015

CosmicVapor said:
Hmm thanks, my colonial mod is not accepting my orchid. It works on other mods and other attys work on it. Any suggestions l?

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If the distance between the atty contact and bottom of the base is 4.6-4.8mm it is basically within spec. If it's working on other mods chances are it's very close to that.

Check the mod. Are you sure you have contact between the atty and mod center pins? If the mod center pin is already extended as far as it will go, remove the lock ring on the mod's center pin. Screw the atty all the way onto the mod connector, then screw in the mod center pin without lock ring until it contacts the atty contact. When you know you have solid contact, assemble the mod and try firing.

Citizen · Feb 17, 2015

TheWestPole said:
If the distance between the atty contact and bottom of the base is 4.6-4.8mm it is basically within spec. If it's working on other mods chances are it's very close to that.

Check the mod. Are you sure you have contact between the atty and mod center pins? If the mod center pin is already extended as far as it will go, remove the lock ring on the mod's center pin. Screw the atty all the way onto the mod connector, then screw in the mod center pin without lock ring until it contacts the atty contact. When you know you have solid contact, assemble the mod and try firing.

Yeah that makes more sense. I remember having to lengthen insulators because my stock was letting my pin sit just about flush. Btw, west pole. Really bummed I missed out on the v6's you had. Got some juice that I didn't know was a tank cracker. That spare v4 I picked up from you has been rendered useless for the time being.

TheWestPole · Feb 17, 2015

Citizen said:
Yeah that makes more sense. I remember having to lengthen insulators because my stock was letting my pin sit just about flush. Btw, west pole. Really bummed I missed out on the v6's you had. Got some juice that I didn't know was a tank cracker. That spare v4 I picked up from you has been rendered useless for the time being.

That sucks, Jake. I've been lucky, no tank crackers yet. I've got some miscellaneous PC spares and one full size quartz tank w. SS rings if you gotta have something to tide you over. Just lemmie know.

CosmicVapor · Feb 17, 2015

TheWestPole said:
If the distance between the atty contact and bottom of the base is 4.6-4.8mm it is basically within spec. If it's working on other mods chances are it's very close to that.

Check the mod. Are you sure you have contact between the atty and mod center pins? If the mod center pin is already extended as far as it will go, remove the lock ring on the mod's center pin. Screw the atty all the way onto the mod connector, then screw in the mod center pin without lock ring until it contacts the atty contact. When you know you have solid contact, assemble the mod and try firing.

Ok here are some pics, fun fact: vapetasia eBay is vapeomg which I got from them. Would not recommend buying from them imo

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TheWestPole · Feb 17, 2015

CosmicVapor said:
Ok here are some pics, fun fact: vapetasia eBay is vapeomg which I got from them. Would not recommend buying from them imo

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Hmmm. One piece center pin, no locking ring, and it appears to be screwed all the way down. You still need to find out if you have positive contact with the atty pin. If it is just a little bit short, you can sand/file down the insulator or mod head itself.

CosmicVapor · Feb 17, 2015

What should I sand it down with?

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TheWestPole · Feb 17, 2015

CosmicVapor said:
What should I sand it down with?

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Have you figured out how much you have to take off? As long as it's just a little, a sheet of sand paper placed on a flat surface, working the insulator with a circular motion. Plastic sands down easily.

fq06 · Feb 17, 2015

And really fine grit too, 800 or so. Check it many times, you will take more off than you want real fast (ask me how i know this lol).
Couple circles, check. Couple circles, check... repeat till you get what you want.

CosmicVapor · Feb 17, 2015

I don't think it's the insulator, is it possible that the threads are to big. I have been running the orchid/colonial with no problem. I take off the tank and now it won't go back on. It was my favorite mod too

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TheWestPole · Feb 17, 2015

CosmicVapor said:
I don't think it's the insulator, is it possible that the threads are to big. I have been running the orchid/colonial with no problem. I take off the tank and now it won't go back on. It was my favorite mod too

Sorry, I can't tell by your descriptions what's going on with your mod, and would prefer not to keep guessing. Excuse me if I bow out at this point. It seems like your Orchid is fine.

TheWestPole · Feb 18, 2015

Hello @Niji. Welcome. We appreciate you too!

Niji · Feb 18, 2015

Hi hi

. Thanks. Just lurking and reading. I only have one orchid base and have not yet decided what I want to build it into. There are so many possibilities here!

TheWestPole · Feb 18, 2015

Niji said:
Hi hi . Thanks. Just lurking and reading. I only have one orchid base and have not yet decided what I want to build it into. There are so many possibilities here!

I know, so many possibilities! Well, take your time, and just ask for any help you might need. We're very friendly and generous here.

That said, I'm signing off and going to sleep. Cheers.

ORCHID MODIFICATION THREAD

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