Genius. I have this habit of just looking around in a 6 ft radius for a solution to whatever problem I'm having at that moment (which seems to happen A LOT now that I think about it). When I reassembled last night I put the chimney down to the deck but didn't really snug it down. When I got a dry hit I pulled off the DT then did my look around thing. Rubber band over the end of a ball point pin? Not quite enough grip. I've got all kinds of wall anchors here at work though, throwing a few in the bag. Might hit up the hardware store for a small rubber cone. I'm thinking the hard plastic anchor might not grip well enough but it sure is easy enough to try it! Thanks for the tip. Get it?Hehehehe.Welcome @KeyserSoze. Thanks for your props to everyone who has contributed to the thread. Flattery will get you... somewhere.
Seems like you're pretty much on top of your Orchid issues. You were smart to read first and are well ahead of where I started. If you're satisfied with the drilled-out airflow and have settled on 80% VG, yes, opening the juice channels is next. You've probably already seen a lot of examples of bigger ones, including Silverplay, Goblin, etc.
If you want to experiment with JFC without making a custom chimney, there are possibilities. The main thing is to get around disassembling every time you want to change the chimney setting. I haven't done this, but you could rig up a little tool that allows you to adjust the stock chimney from the outside with the atty assembled. An expandable plastic wall anchor/screw might just do the trick. Anyway that's the idea. Pop off the drip tip, insert the anchor and tighten the screw, then turn the anchor to screw or unscrew the chimney.
I might play with this idea myself, that is, making a proper tool that does it fast and easy. I'm really into my big chimneys and I generally like SS drip tips so it's no sacrifice. But sometimes it's nice to change to whatever standard DT you may want, in which case a stock setup with an adjustment tool would do nicely.
BTW, I never use o-rings on the fill screw. Only had one that leaked, just a little, and that was fixable by cleaning out a rough edge in the counter bore.
Cheers!
Still want the big chimney/DT though. Gonna look back through my pages of cliffnotes and links from this thread for a long regular diameter chimney that'll drop in. That would be a nice interim solution. I'm not crazy about the idea of glue inside my atty. I know there are safe solutions but I'm going to try to avoid it. I'm hoping FT and it's blinding pace of new products will offer the wide bore chimney in a long version at some point. I don't want to go to a short tank (already realized why expanding the capacity is such an issue) but maybe they'll offer one for an extended tank that I can mod into a regular tank. Finger are crossed.
Yeah I try to actually read a thread before replying unless it's one of those monsters with hundreds of pages. Lots of great posts in this thread.
Something I noticed last night, I'm only getting bubbles from one juice channel and occasionally one other. Never from the other two. One coil running hotter than the other maybe? I did have a screw loosen on the first run. Snugged them down pretty good the 2nd time around and the ohm reading hasn't jumped. They were firing in near unison before I assembled. Dunno. Going to tackle that after I get the chimney up a little.
