ORCHID MODIFICATION THREAD

[fq06]

Hmm.. my Tobecco v2's oring is much tighter.. Seems to always unscrew the chimney unless its really cranked on.. And then the cap still wants to 'pop' off. Which was a mess once..

Thats funny, the tobeco v1 didnt have an oring in the top cap so I got the top fill cap from FT. That was an improvement but a looser fit than vox's v2. Same as you, the chimney goes up or down with the tank and top cap the fit is so tight, I spin the chimney on one turn and then cap it and button it up to get the chimney about 1.5 or 2 turns up from the base once its snugged up.

Maybe its the Gucci new top cap they are using on the v2.5 that's machined out a little different than my stock looking v2 top cap.

Correction, top cap is the same as my v2, stock lookin... not Gucci
Personal favorite look anyway.
After messing with his there is no issue filling at all like others have reported with the full size tank v4. Plenty of room between the tank and chimney.

....................

Haven't heard of a steel oring... makes no sense to me.

 

[dre]

Anyone try vertical coils and using JP cotton to wrap it like a aspire bvc coil? I'm thinking about attempting this.

 

[fq06]

No, but thought about that too... did it on a kayfun ages ago and it worked well.
Snap some pics when you do try it.

 

[TheWestPole]

Hmm.. my Tobecco v2's oring is much tighter.. Seems to always unscrew the chimney unless its really cranked on.. And then the cap still wants to 'pop' off. Which was a mess once..

My Tobeco Orchid also had a thicker chimney o-ring. If you have a Kayfun o-ring laying around maybe try that. A little thinner.

 

[TheWestPole]

What is the "steel o-ring" jazz about? Anyone heard of/used them? What is the point behind them, durability?

IDK. Works like a rubber post screw?

 

[TheWestPole]

Thats funny, the tobeco v1 didnt have an oring in the top cap so I got the top fill cap from FT. That was an improvement but a looser fit than vox's v2. Same as you, the chimney goes up or down with the tank and top cap the fit is so tight, I spin the chimney on one turn and then cap it and button it up to get the chimney about 1.5 or 2 turns up from the base once its snugged up.

Maybe its the Gucci new top cap they are using on the v2.5 that's machined out a little different than my stock looking v2 top cap.

Correction, top cap is the same as my v2, stock lookin... not Gucci
Personal favorite look anyway.
After messing with his there is no issue filling at all like others have reported with the full size tank v4. Plenty of room between the tank and chimney.

Totally agree with you about the Gucci top cap. Too bad I hate the other one too.

 

[pwnby]

V4... Latest build. 9 wraps of 26ga kanthal, .56 ohms. Jappy cotton, thought I'd post some pics. Zero wick in the channels, it isn't even covering the channels. Although it might have once it got fully saturated when I filled it. Either way, no leaks or dry hits

Sorry, the HDR on my phone camera turned the pics pretty dark for some reason.

 

[pdxjlb]

^ Looks Good !! Hope it works well for ya'!

 

[dre]

My bvc work! Came out to .4 with 26g wrap JP cotton the width of the coil and just one wrap around with small tail for wicking I used 50/50 and its not leaking I usually use max VG but im out. U can run it up to 60 watts before I get a slight burnt taste

 

[TheWestPole]

My bvc work! Came out to .4 with 26g wrap JP cotton the width of the coil and just one wrap around with small tail for wicking I used 50/50 and its not leaking I usually use max VG but im out. U can run it up to 60 watts before I get a slight burnt taste

Nice work! It's always impressive when somebody gets some thing or some material to do what it doesn't want to do. Next time you re-wick would you take a shot or two of fresh wicking right before you screw the chamber on? Thanks @dre1982.

 

[dre]

Nice work! It's always impressive when somebody gets some thing or some material to do what it doesn't want to do. Next time you re-wick would you take a shot or two of fresh wicking right before you screw the chamber on? Thanks @dre1982.

Just cut a sheet of JP cotton to the width of the coil and do ONE wrap and when they meet cut the tail right at the juice channel. It works very good I can take lots of wattage up to 60w no problems

 

[jamieg71]

First post here, great thread, inspiring actually. I hadn't seen anyone post this here yet.... https://www.fasttech.com/products/1787301

It holds right at 10mils, and fits beautifuly on my King Pin 26650 mod. I drilled the six air holes out for uniformity. Two of the holes I managed to line up with the orchid's, although there is a slight difference in height.

Edit- Also, this will only work with a V4 chimney, unless you mod your own..
Here- https://www.fasttech.com/products/1918600

 

[TheWestPole]

First post here, great thread, inspiring actually. I hadn't seen anyone post this here yet.... https://www.fasttech.com/products/1787301

It holds right at 10mils, and fits beautifuly on my King Pin 26650 mod. I drilled the six air holes out for uniformity. Two of the holes I managed to line up with the orchid's, although there is a slight difference in height.

Edit- Also, this will only work with a V4 chimney, unless you med your own..
Here- https://www.fasttech.com/products/1918600

There's been talk here about the one you have and the one below, but you are the first to follow through, with pics at least. That is a beast. Next to the iStick it looks like a battle axe. Nice work with the drilling. And I really like the heavy patina > copper > brass > stainless zones in your detail pic. Welcome @jamieg71.

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/...onfun-tank-accessory-kit-for-30mm-kayfun-lite


These plastic ones are still very $$$$, but for when your arm gets tired...

 

[heateris]

my v4 also leaks when I fill it up from the bottom base, if you can see in the picture the fill hole is drilled some what over the chimney not like my kayfun where its just over the tank area.

I had the same problem with my Tobeco V4. Using a one piece tank fixed it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jamieg71]

There's been talk here about the one you have and the one below, but you are the first to follow through, with pics at least. That is a beast. Next to the iStick it looks like a battle axe. Nice work with the drilling. And I really like the heavy patina > copper > brass > stainless zones in your detail pic. Welcome @jamieg71.

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/...onfun-tank-accessory-kit-for-30mm-kayfun-lite


These plastic ones are still very $$$$, but for when your arm gets tired...

Its a King Pin copper mod and that's a V2 on the istick (stealth vape) for driving.
The patina, if you can call it that.
Work in progress, there's another thread here that caught my eye. Waiting on a 2six mod. I'll have the patina down proper for it. And bet yer ass it will be rockin' an orchid as well. Maybe an RDA or two too

.45 dual chimney build w/2 strands of twisted 32awg (5 wrap at 2.45mm) on the V4 with the kayfat kit btw, it drinks juice bout like a fat kid eats cake...

 

[pwnby]

Its a King Pin copper mod and that's a V2 on the istick (stealth vape) for driving.
The patina, if you can call it that.
Work in progress, there's another thread here that caught my eye. Waiting on a 2six mod. I'll have the patina down proper for it. And bet yer ass it will be rockin' an orchid as well. Maybe an RDA or two too

.45 dual chimney build w/2 strands of twisted 32awg (5 wrap at 2.45mm) on the V4 with the kayfat kit btw, it drinks juice bout like a fat kid eats cake...

I havent heard anything good about the 2six. Love my 4nine tho. It just pairs with an orchid well.

 

[TheWestPole]

I'm with you @jamieg71 and @pwnby on these two mods. So far I'm all positives on my 2six clone. The button needed a little love (better, flatter spring) but I think it's as good or better than my 18xxx magnetic 4nine, which I also think is great, though not a fan of the cutouts around the button. No matter. I picked one of each for a couple of side-by-side rigs I'm working on. Both are the most space efficient and simple mods available, and I'm all for pinless.

Speaking of simple, I forgot SMPL, currently the shortest, tightest 18650 mod.

 

[TheWestPole]

FT just listed these tanks...





which you can combine with these tank rings...





to make this or a colorful version of this.





The OD is a little smaller, but ID is a perfect fit. Total length of assembled tank is 49mm. Compare that to stock V4/Kayfun @ 34mm and stock Taifun GT @ 40mm.

Of course, as usual you will have to rig a chimney extension, unless you trim the tank length to V4 range. But Erlkonigin now becomes a source of new tank materials, in case you get tired of clear PC tube stock and/or want colors, or if you just like the different look with no threads showing through.

 

[TheWestPole]

Visual comparison of what I referred to above. An Erlkonigin tank side by side with a tank cut from Polycarbonate tube stock, "frosted" by yours truly.



I'm warming up to the thought of Erlkonigin's threadless appearance with frosted colors.

 

[Dorian924]

Hey folks first post here. I believe I've found a solution/answer to requests.

Quoted from the site:
"Orchid Two Piece Chimney - Precision machined stainless two piece Orchid chimney. Direct replacemnt for your Orchid single piece chimney. The chimney sleeve is a seperate from the chimey tube, like a standard kayfun. The chimeny sleeve will thread directly on your Orchid body allowing you to adjust your wicking material before the chimney tube is threaded on. The chimney tube threads in to the chimney sleeve with the same M12 x0.5mm as a kayfun chimney tubes, Thread any kayfun chimeny tube on the Orchid chimney sleeve allows you to use any kayfun standard or nano tank accessories and top caps. Outside diameter of our chimeny sleeve is 15mm, 1mm smaller than the standard 16mm orchid chimeny.The chimney tube features a short thread length and a reduced taper on the cap to slightly increase liquid capacity. Adds versatility to your Orchid. This will fit genuine Orchid V1, Tobeco Replica, and most other versions. To use standard tank setups you may need to use longer chimney tubes." $8.99

Click here to buy

 

[fq06]

Thank you sir, in the cart it goes

Nice machine work, 1mm smaller OD for more juice, ability to use my old kayfun chimneys for a nano or regular setup... FTW!

Edit...
Wow, they are on the ball over there, just got an update, preparing for shipment. Under 30 min.

 

[TheWestPole]

Hey folks first post here. I believe I've found a solution/answer to requests.

Quoted from the site:
"Orchid Two Piece Chimney - Precision machined stainless two piece Orchid chimney. Direct replacemnt for your Orchid single piece chimney. The chimney sleeve is a seperate from the chimey tube, like a standard kayfun. The chimeny sleeve will thread directly on your Orchid body allowing you to adjust your wicking material before the chimney tube is threaded on. The chimney tube threads in to the chimney sleeve with the same M12 x0.5mm as a kayfun chimney tubes, Thread any kayfun chimeny tube on the Orchid chimney sleeve allows you to use any kayfun standard or nano tank accessories and top caps. Outside diameter of our chimeny sleeve is 15mm, 1mm smaller than the standard 16mm orchid chimeny.The chimney tube features a short thread length and a reduced taper on the cap to slightly increase liquid capacity. Adds versatility to your Orchid. This will fit genuine Orchid V1, Tobeco Replica, and most other versions. To use standard tank setups you may need to use longer chimney tubes." $8.99

Click here to buy

Double like. Great find!

Love the DIY attitude of whoever made this happen. See a need, draw up a part, make it. Plus they're manufactured in a machine shop in New York.

Welcome @Dorian924.

 

[Reckful]

Hey folks first post here. I believe I've found a solution/answer to requests.

Quoted from the site:
"Orchid Two Piece Chimney - Precision machined stainless two piece Orchid chimney. Direct replacemnt for your Orchid single piece chimney. The chimney sleeve is a seperate from the chimey tube, like a standard kayfun. The chimeny sleeve will thread directly on your Orchid body allowing you to adjust your wicking material before the chimney tube is threaded on. The chimney tube threads in to the chimney sleeve with the same M12 x0.5mm as a kayfun chimney tubes, Thread any kayfun chimeny tube on the Orchid chimney sleeve allows you to use any kayfun standard or nano tank accessories and top caps. Outside diameter of our chimeny sleeve is 15mm, 1mm smaller than the standard 16mm orchid chimeny.The chimney tube features a short thread length and a reduced taper on the cap to slightly increase liquid capacity. Adds versatility to your Orchid. This will fit genuine Orchid V1, Tobeco Replica, and most other versions. To use standard tank setups you may need to use longer chimney tubes." $8.99

Click here to buy

Thank you for posting this. After some searching around, you can take the Orchid Two Piece Chimney and add this Kayfun "Long Chimney" to make the tank bigger with out much modifications (Well if any is needed)

 

[TheWestPole]

Thank you for posting this. After some searching around, you can take the Orchid Two Piece Chimney and add this Kayfun "Long Chimney" to make the tank bigger with out much modifications (Well if any is needed)

Certainly. I have had this listing saved for months. Still not China cheap, but not horribly expensive either:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201162718390?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I have seen them as low as $10 for just the chimney, but can't attest to the source.

http://shop.vaperev.com/rebuildables/svoemesto/svoemesto-138/kayfun-long-chimney.html

I have never found a reasonably priced (IMO) source for the long 55mm M-tank though. They are usually around $30 if I recall. This is where the Erlkonigin tank assembly (49mm) and polycarbonate tube tank assembly (whatever length you want) in post #319 might come in handy.

Watch out for the stepped Kayfun long chimney if you want to use the Erlkonigin tank. I'm not sure it the tank will be quite long enough. Better in that case to source a non-stepped chimney elsewhere.

 

[Reckful]

Certainly. I have had this listing saved for months. Still not China cheap, but not horribly expensive either:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201162718390?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I have seen them as low as $10 for just the chimney, but can't attest to the source.

http://shop.vaperev.com/rebuildables/svoemesto/svoemesto-138/kayfun-long-chimney.html

I have never found a reasonably priced (IMO) source for the long 55mm M-tank though. They are usually around $30 if I recall. This is where the Erlkonigin tank assembly (49mm) and polycarbonate tube tank assembly (whatever length you want) in post #319 might come in handy.

Watch out for the stepped Kayfun long chimney if you want to use the Erlkonigin tank. I'm not sure it the tank will be quite long enough. Better in that case to source a non-stepped chimney elsewhere.

I think I may order some of the Erlkonigin tanks to see wither or not the actually fit. If they do fit, then that would be a perfect all-in-one shopping for all the parts you need to extend the juice level.

 

[CaFF]

Hey folks first post here. I believe I've found a solution/answer to requests.

Quoted from the site:
"Orchid Two Piece Chimney - Precision machined stainless two piece Orchid chimney. Direct replacemnt for your Orchid single piece chimney. The chimney sleeve is a seperate from the chimey tube, like a standard kayfun. The chimeny sleeve will thread directly on your Orchid body allowing you to adjust your wicking material before the chimney tube is threaded on. The chimney tube threads in to the chimney sleeve with the same M12 x0.5mm as a kayfun chimney tubes, Thread any kayfun chimeny tube on the Orchid chimney sleeve allows you to use any kayfun standard or nano tank accessories and top caps. Outside diameter of our chimeny sleeve is 15mm, 1mm smaller than the standard 16mm orchid chimeny.The chimney tube features a short thread length and a reduced taper on the cap to slightly increase liquid capacity. Adds versatility to your Orchid. This will fit genuine Orchid V1, Tobeco Replica, and most other versions. To use standard tank setups you may need to use longer chimney tubes." $8.99

Click here to buy

Super-Yay!!! Thx for this.

Now I just need to figure out what combo of parts I'd need to enlarge the tank too without surgery. Or, spending more than I paid for the Orchid v4 in the first place.
.
It's silly...Mine is showing the liquid nearly empty ATM. but if I turn it over to fill, it..there's no room..argh.

I love this thing, but if I have to spend $20+ to make it better, I may as well just buy another Fogger v4.

 

[TheWestPole]

I think I may order some of the Erlkonigin tanks to see wither or not the actually fit. If they do fit, then that would be a perfect all-in-one shopping for all the parts you need to extend the juice level.

If you get a stepped Kayfun long chimney please give us the dimensions. We would then know for sure whether the Erlkonigin tank will fit. Just from scaling off the photo my guess is that it will fit with Orchid top caps and recessed Kayfun top caps, but not with non-recessed Kayfun top caps.

 

[TheWestPole]

Super-Yay!!! Thx for this.

Now I just need to figure out what combo of parts I'd need to enlarge the tank too without surgery. Or, spending more than I paid for the Orchid v4 in the first place.
.
It's silly...Mine is showing the liquid nearly empty ATM. but if I turn it over to fill, it..there's no room..argh.

I love this thing, but if I have to spend $20+ to make it better, I may as well just buy another Fogger v4.

Sounds like you must have mastered your builds on that fiddly Fogger deck. Power to ya!

PS: I'm cheap too.

 

[Robert B]

Just got my 1st orchid in. V4... damn thats a small deck.

**edit**
With my old eyes, and reading glasses, managed to build a dual coil 26 gauge, 5 wraps around a 2.3mm screwdriver. .3 ohms. Japanese cotton sitting flush on the deck, no leaks. Hits very well. Will try a higher resistance build next time. I can see why every likes to mod these things. Thanks everyone for posting, fun read.

 

[Eric DeCastro]

V4... Latest build. 9 wraps of 26ga kanthal, .56 ohms. Jappy cotton, thought I'd post some pics. Zero wick in the channels, it isn't even covering the channels. Although it might have once it got fully saturated when I filled it. Either way, no leaks or dry hits

Sorry, the HDR on my phone camera turned the pics pretty dark for some reason.

what is the ID of the coils? did you use a drill bit? i just rebuilt mine with a 1/16" 9 turn coils and i gt .3ohms. would like to see more of .5-.8 ohms. i might have to go with 28g kanthal

 

[pwnby]

I believe that's on a 5/64. Might have been a size up

 

[Sean Di Rienzo]

I just received my orchid v4 from ft. It vapes like a dream, no leaks or anything of the sort yet. However, the fill-port screw will not screw in or unscrew whatsoever - It does not seem to thread at all, it is sort of just jammed in there. The only way I was able to remove it was by forcing it out with a small screwdriver from the top deck side.

Right now it's sitting on my boxmod, not leaking but not actually screwed in tight, sort of just sitting there.

What on earth do I do? I cannot unscrew it to refill as unscrewing merely spins the screw and does not release it from the threads.

Thanks

 

[TheWestPole]

I just received my orchid v4 from ft. It vapes like a dream, no leaks or anything of the sort yet. However, the fill-port screw will not screw in or unscrew whatsoever - It does not seem to thread at all, it is sort of just jammed in there. The only way I was able to remove it was by forcing it out with a small screwdriver from the top deck side.

Right now it's sitting on my boxmod, not leaking but not actually screwed in tight, sort of just sitting there.

What on earth do I do? I cannot unscrew it to refill as unscrewing merely spins the screw and does not release it from the threads.

Thanks

Sucks. Bad threads I assume. I would drill and tap and replace the screw. If you can't do that, and can't find a silicone or rubber piece that fits tight enough to work as a stopper, then I would seal it with glue and top fill.

I still top fill a couple of V1s. Just use the fingers over the air vents method, to which I might add one detail. I always cut a q-tip in half, pull off a bit of the cotton to make the swab a bit smaller and plug up the chimney until I'm finished filling and reassembling. Sometimes I can get away with only a drop or two of leaked juice.

Also remember, when you blow through the tip to finish clearing the chamber after filling HOLD THE ATTY UPSIDE DOWN. Otherwise you can blow out a ton of juice.

 

[Sean Di Rienzo]

Thanks for your advice, I'm still trying to remove the screw - thinking of slapping some locktight on it as bottom fill method is preferred.

This really erks me, the last mech mod I bought had shit threads aswell, none of my atties will thread onto it anymore. Im very close to dismissing clones alltogether now, my experience has been great with my magma clones but my veritas and this orchid are pissing me off.

The orchid vapes great, I just dont get why something so minute like this would have to be f**ked up

 

[TheWestPole]

Thanks for your advice, I'm still trying to remove the screw - thinking of slapping some locktight on it as bottom fill method is preferred.

This really erks me, the last mech mod I bought had shit threads aswell, none of my atties will thread onto it anymore. Im very close to dismissing clones alltogether now, my experience has been great with my magma clones but my veritas and this orchid are pissing me off.

The orchid vapes great, I just dont get why something so minute like this would have to be f**ked up

Try pushing from one side while you unscrew from the other. You might engage a bit of thread on the way out. Then check the internal threads with a lupe or mag glass. If there is any thread remaining try a fresh screw with sharp thread points. Might be enough to get the port functioning. You can tighten super lightly with that one. Takes very little to tension to work.

I mostly buy clones, and expect to have to finish them myself. Worth the trade off for me. But it is INFURIATING when they botch something so thoroughly that it can't be fixed.

 

[Sean Di Rienzo]

Try pushing from one side while you unscrew from the other. You might engage a bit of thread on the way out. Then check the internal threads with a lupe or mag glass. If there is any thread remaining try a fresh screw with sharp thread points. Might be enough. You can tighten super lightly with that one. Takes very little to tension to work.

I mostly buy clones, and expect to have to finish them myself. Worth the trade off for me. But it is INFURIATING when they botch something so thoroughly that it can't be fixed.

Holy crap, that worked. I pulled ever so slightly toward me while unscrewing with very little tension and the sucker came out. Im looking for my locktight

 

[Oggy]

While Im sure this isnt what you were looking for, I just got one of these in to use on my Orchid V3 and I like it.
http://www.fasttech.com/product/1815409
You do have to have a needle bottle or syringe but as quick as the Orchid goes through joose this is alot easier to fill.

 

[fq06]

Locktight will not help if the threads are trashed and i wouldn't want that in my juice either.
I would contact the seller and see what they will do, hopefully a picture emailed and get a replacement part.

Or buy a new bottom fill deck from fasttech.

+1 on plugging all three holes when top filling westpole.

 

[TheWestPole]

While Im sure this isnt what you were looking for, I just got one of these in to use on my Orchid V3 and I like it.
http://www.fasttech.com/product/1815409
You do have to have a needle bottle or syringe but as quick as the Orchid goes through joose this is alot easier to fill.

Good suggestion as a backup. That was a go to solution for the V1s. I never liked them myself (too bulky) but a lot of people do. And still do, because they're tool-free!

 

[Sean Di Rienzo]

Locktight will not help if the threads are trashed and i wouldn't want that in my juice either.
I would contact the seller and see what they will do, hopefully a picture emailed and get a replacement part.

Or buy a new bottom fill deck from fasttech.

+1 on plugging all three holes when top filling westpole.

This may sound a little ignorant, but will fasttech even consider replacing a part? I don't see china giving any shits about my problem.

 

[TheWestPole]

Locktight will not help if the threads are trashed and i wouldn't want that in my juice either.
I would contact the seller and see what they will do, hopefully a picture emailed and get a replacement part.

Or buy a new bottom fill deck from fasttech.

+1 on plugging all three holes when top filling westpole.

+1 on no Loctite in this case.

 

[Sean Di Rienzo]

Alright, so I've ordered one of those top-caps that will let me drip easily. I own several needle bottles so this isn't an issue.

Now, to go about "sealing" this bottom fill hole, what is the easiest way do you believe?

 

[TheWestPole]

This may sound a little ignorant, but will fasttech even consider replacing a part? I don't see china giving any shits about my problem.

I RMA'd something once to FT. Weeks later after receiving the return they wanted a photo of my credit card to confirm it for crediting back. Fuck that. Since then I consider anything I buy from them to be as-is. Can't waste my time on this little shit, particularly when almost everything I get can be fixed.

American vendor? That's another story. It goes back.

 

[Sean Di Rienzo]

I RMA'd something once. Weeks later after receiving the return they wanted a photo of my credit card to confirm it for crediting back. Fuck that. Since then I consider anything I buy from them to be as-is. Can't waste my time on this little shit, particularly when almost everything I get can be fixed. American vendor? That's another story. It goes back.

Yeah, I've had nothing but incredible experienced with american RMA's. I suppose I won't be bottom filling anytime soon which is a huge disappointment.

With that top-cap, will I still need to plug the airholes when filling or does it keep the pressure seal in balance?

 

[TheWestPole]

Alright, so I've ordered one of those top-caps that will let me drip easily. I own several needle bottles so this isn't an issue.

Now, to go about "sealing" this bottom fill hole, what is the easiest way do you believe?

The tiniest bit of epoxy or superglue covering the underside of the screw head only. Wouldn't want to squirt down the threads where it could leech out into the juice.

 

[Robert B]

Alright, so I've ordered one of those top-caps that will let me drip easily. I own several needle bottles so this isn't an issue.

Now, to go about "sealing" this bottom fill hole, what is the easiest way do you believe?

J.B. Weld. Dab some under the screw head.. set it and forget it.. They have a high heat version if your so inclined. Make sure you clean the surface good with some rubbing alcohol or something. Let it set up for at least 24hrs. I would go 48 if it were me.

 

[TheWestPole]

Yeah, I've had nothing but incredible experienced with american RMA's. I suppose I won't be bottom filling anytime soon which is a huge disappointment.

With that top-cap, will I still need to plug the airholes when filling or does it keep the pressure seal in balance?

Well you can spend your $5 on the top cap or a new base, whatever you think best. (Just don't get the V1 base.)

I never developed a technique with the top fill cap so I can't advise. Don't know if it changes how long it takes to build vacuum back either.

Best of luck.

 

[Sean Di Rienzo]

The response I got from fassttech was a request to take a video of the issue.. despite describing it in detail - no surprise.

@ WestPole, I did not even know I could order just the base specifically, would you be able to provide a link for me? I cannot seem to navigate fasttech very well.

I'm still new into RDA/RTA's and am extremely discouraged from a few bad experiences. I really wanted a reliable RTA.

I've ordered 2x orchid v4 bases from fasttech and the top-cap with the fill holes.

If neither of these work I think I'm done with clones

 

[fq06]

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10009751/1943600-replacement-base-for-orchid-v3-v4-rebuildable

 

[pwnby]

The response I got from fassttech was a request to take a video of the issue.. despite describing it in detail - no surprise.

@ WestPole, I did not even know I could order just the base specifically, would you be able to provide a link for me? I cannot seem to navigate fasttech very well.

I'm still new into RDA/RTA's and am extremely discouraged from a few bad experiences. I really wanted a reliable RTA.

I've ordered 2x orchid v4 bases from fasttech and the top-cap with the fill holes.

If neither of these work I think I'm done with clones

From riptrippers review of the plumeveil 1.5, you won't get any quality machining from aethertech (the ones who made the orchid) either.

I know the frustration, but stick with it. just remember that an authentic orchid is well over $100. If you buy 8 complete v4's to make one good one, you are still coming out ahead.