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ORCHID MODIFICATION THREAD

TheWestPole

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I've looked around a bit and not sure what I need exactly... I have the v3 but capacity is my largest issue. I've read some people are using a single plastic tank section but I don't know what size I should get since I know it's shorter than a regular kayfun. Could somebody point me in the right direction of what I need for my v3?

Taifun GT Nano tanks work with the stock V1-V3 chimney and top cap, and add a bit over 1.5 ml capacity. This is the tank I use all the time with the stock short chimney. If you order one, while you're at it get yourself a V4 chimney and you will be able to fit all regular size Kayfun tanks, which add as much as 2.4 ml over stock for the one-piece plastic ones. :)

Untitled tank.png

http://www.fasttech.com/search?taifun gt nano tank
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10009751/1918600-replacement-chimney-for-orchid-v4-rebuildable
 
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Eric DeCastro

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Orchid-X-Atomizer-6-500x500.jpg
Orchid-X-Atomizer-2-500x500.jpg
 

TheWestPole

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Some of us here really, really want the two-part chimney. Personally I'm indifferent. Orchid wicks easily, short and simple, and because there's a juice channel for each wick end they stay put. I've never felt the need to fiddle with my wicks because they weren't working right, so I never felt the one-piece was a shortcoming. Longer wicks, like in Kayfun, may benefit by fine positioning after screwing on the chamber. I'm happy, actually grateful, that's not the case with Orchid. :D

That said, I'm glad it may be available for others. :)
 

TheWestPole

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How did I miss that post? Those holes are definitely as big as you could go!
Hmmm may need to get the drill out when I get back in town.

Yeah, just the thinnest sliver of metal left between hole and insulator. Drilled straight without drifting though. :)
 
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Eric DeCastro

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i am less than 24 hours with my V4 and it fills different than my V3. everything is the same but when i bottom fill, i get all kinds of leaking out the drip tip. my second tank i removed the chimney to inspect the wicks. they are full and right above the juice channels just like my v3. made sure the chimney wasn't covering the fill hole. but when filling i can feel resistance and juice dumps out of the drip tip. minimal leaking after it's filled but it is driving me nuts wasting juice during filling.
 

TheWestPole

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i am less than 24 hours with my V4 and it fills different than my V3. everything is the same but when i bottom fill, i get all kinds of leaking out the drip tip. my second tank i removed the chimney to inspect the wicks. they are full and right above the juice channels just like my v3. made sure the chimney wasn't covering the fill hole. but when filling i can feel resistance and juice dumps out of the drip tip. minimal leaking after it's filled but it is driving me nuts wasting juice during filling.

Might try needle filling with needle inserted all the way to opposite end. That will tell you whether it's leaking at your chimney o-ring seal or from juice being forced into the chamber through the channels.
 

Eric DeCastro

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so it seems that my base ( I believe) has the fill port drilled too close to the chimney (i suspect). I used the needle dropper bottle to fill and no leaks. I might swap bases with my V3 to see if it clears up the filling problem. the amount of the fill hole the chimney on both bases are pretty much the same so I'm thinking this might not be the problem.

another thought might be the internal pressure is too high and forcing the liquid through the juice channels. next fill, I'm going to relieve the pressure buy unscrewing the top a little bit and then tightening it back down when I'm done filling.

when i fill I really have to squeeze the bottle with considerable amount of force vs the V3 which i barely squeeze and it fills to the brim.
 
L

Lighty269

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so it seems that my base ( I believe) has the fill port drilled too close to the chimney (i suspect). I used the needle dropper bottle to fill and no leaks. I might swap bases with my V3 to see if it clears up the filling problem. the amount of the fill hole the chimney on both bases are pretty much the same so I'm thinking this might not be the problem.

another thought might be the internal pressure is too high and forcing the liquid through the juice channels. next fill, I'm going to relieve the pressure buy unscrewing the top a little bit and then tightening it back down when I'm done filling.

when i fill I really have to squeeze the bottle with considerable amount of force vs the V3 which i barely squeeze and it fills to the brim.


That may cause it to leak more.
 

Midniteoyl

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Hells yeah! I wish they'd just sell the screws though and the two-part chimney.
That way, I can do the same wick style as my Fogger. (the pulled up/snipped/pushed down style)
Can always find screws to fit, or, tap the holes to the next larger size ;)
 

CaFF

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Member For 5 Years
Can always find screws to fit, or, tap the holes to the next larger size ;)

Well, I don't know the size...has anyone measured them?
Taps and Dies are expensive and I don't have anything to use them with in my 1BD apt. Not going to spend more than the atty cost just to have better screws. ;-)

Honestly, since I don't rebuilt my atties often, it's just an annoyance having the Allen screws.
 

Midniteoyl

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The Allen screws dont bother me either.. I like Allen's... Its the stupid size of the Allen Key needed and being afraid of losing the damn thing.. I almost swept it off the table twice now thinking it just a piece of wire :facepalm:
 

TheWestPole

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Hells yeah! I wish they'd just sell the screws though and the two-part chimney.
That way, I can do the same wick style as my Fogger. (the pulled up/snipped/pushed down style)

You've got a lot of company there @CaFF.

I was gonna buy a couple but changed the order to the cheapest PMMA V4s. For $5 more you get full unit plus extra set of post screws to retrofit an earlier version and an extra set of o-rings. :) Plus the PMMA top cap and drip tip are pretty nice for light weight rigs. (Not a fan of the heavy SS ones.)
 

CaFF

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The Allen screws dont bother me either.. I like Allen's... Its the stupid size of the Allen Key needed and being afraid of losing the damn thing.. I almost swept it off the table twice now thinking it just a piece of wire :facepalm:

Yeah, that's it exactly. The screws themselves work fine, but jeeeze that is a tiny Allen key... o_0
I don't have anything that small if it got lost. I suppose a small flat-head screwdriver would do in a pinch though.

You've got a lot of company there @CaFF.

I was gonna buy a couple but changed the order to the cheapest PMMA V4s. For $5 more you get full unit plus extra set of post screws to retrofit an earlier version and an extra set of o-rings. :) Plus the PMMA top cap and drip tip are pretty nice for light weight rigs. (Not a fan of the heavy SS ones.)

Hmmm. I might have to do that next month. Assuming that more stuff doesn't arrive by then. :D


Heavy isn't a problem though:

EycsldPl.jpg


It ain't going anywhere on this thick aluminum Chana30 box. =)
 

TheWestPole

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Well, I don't know the size...has anyone measured them?

That's the thing, they're an odd size, between 2mm and 2.5mm with coarser than usual threads. I've challenged several posters who said they could find them but nobody has reported back yet. Still need a source. o_O
 

CaFF

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That's the thing, they're an odd size, between 2mm and 2.5mm with coarser than usual threads. I've challenged several posters who said they could find them but nobody has reported back yet. Still need a source. o_O

If I can ever get a ride to my General Store, they have drawers with hundreds of actual loose parts I could try.
Not like these "home stores" that just want to sell packs.
 

CaFF

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That's the thing, they're an odd size, between 2mm and 2.5mm with coarser than usual threads. I've challenged several posters who said they could find them but nobody has reported back yet. Still need a source. o_O

Well, maybe folks ain't looking at the right thing..they aren't Screws, they are Set Screws.

https://www.boltdepot.com/Browse.aspx?Category=Set_screws


Need to find a pan head Phillips machine screw the same diameter and thread pitch though. Length can be dremeled off if need be.

https://www.boltdepot.com/Machine_screws_Phillips_pan_head.aspx
 

TheWestPole

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Can always find screws to fit, or, tap the holes to the next larger size ;)

Yeah, probably enough meat there to tap out to 2.5 x .45, but I wouldn't want to bottom tap in place. Extracting a press fit, tapping through, re-press fitting? Don't think I really want to do that unless there's no other choice. And at $5, there's another choice. Besides the tap by itself is more than that. ;)
 
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TheWestPole

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Well, maybe folks ain't looking at the right thing..they aren't Screws, they are Set Screws.

https://www.boltdepot.com/Browse.aspx?Category=Set_screws


Need to find a pan head Phillips machine screw the same diameter and thread pitch though. Length can be dremeled off if need be.

https://www.boltdepot.com/Machine_screws_Phillips_pan_head.aspx

Head type doesn't matter, they are all standard machine screw threads, and the post screws are not one of those standard sizes stocked at BD or elsewhere. I've been through this. That's why I've been looking at workarounds until somebody comes up with a source, or even an exact spec. for that matter. :confused:

I'm past the problem now so it's a moot point for me. If not actually a proprietary spec., it's probably a thread more common in the Asian metric beyond, or in the world of watches and eye glasses. :rolleyes:
 
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Midniteoyl

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Yeah, probably enough meat there to tap out to 2.5 x .45, but I wouldn't want to bottom tap in place. Extracting a press fit, tapping through, re-press fitting? Don't think I really want to do that unless there's no other choice. And at $5, there's another choice. Besides the tap by itself is more than that. ;)
I have a tap set already, with the proper taps :)
 

pwnby

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pwnby

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Well, after a few builds and some time on the v4, I have to say I am extremely pleased. Current build is about .7 ohms, no wick in the channels whatsoever. Never a drop leaks from it, never dry hits. As others said, it is a bit of a pain to fill, with the clearance issue between the chamber walls. I have to say, this orchid puts off the most satisfying Vape I've ever had. Vapor production obviously isn't as much as an RDA, but the flavor rivals the plume veil, with the comforts of having 4.5 ml to Vape before a refill.

Best 12 dollars I've ever spent on Vape supplies.
 

TheWestPole

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Member For 4 Years
Well, after a few builds and some time on the v4, I have to say I am extremely pleased. Current build is about .7 ohms, no wick in the channels whatsoever. Never a drop leaks from it, never dry hits. As others said, it is a bit of a pain to fill, with the clearance issue between the chamber walls. I have to say, this orchid puts off the most satisfying Vape I've ever had. Vapor production obviously isn't as much as an RDA, but the flavor rivals the plume veil, with the comforts of having 4.5 ml to Vape before a refill.

Best 12 dollars I've ever spent on Vape supplies.

Bump! Just looking at the deck it's hard to believe that it could be leak free, right? Amazing. All about efficient wicking with the Orchid design. :D
 
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TheWestPole

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Member For 4 Years

I love the look of the Kayfun Bell Caps, and have been hoping they would become available inexpensively. Up till now they have been at least $25. Definitely will order a couple to try on stealth rigs.

Juice capacity is going to be really tight again with this nano size. Gonna use my shortened chimney from post #2 to help with that. Only adds a bit over 3/4 ml, but that makes a real difference with nano size tanks.

PB162012 edit.jpg

Left to right: Shortened (4mm from bottom), stock V1-V3, stock V4.
 
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Midniteoyl

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Got my VOX edition in yesterday.. Comes in a nice tin can w/ drip tip... I'll play with it later and snap a pic.
 

fq06

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Member For 4 Years
My buddy just got his vox too and the first thing he noticed is how tight the oring is on the chimney.
Been real happy with my vox v2, very well sealed for a drip free vape without plugging the juice channels up.
 

Midniteoyl

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My buddy just got his vox too and the first thing he noticed is how tight the oring is on the chimney.
Been real happy with my vox v2, very well sealed for a drip free vape without plugging the juice channels up.
Hmm.. my Tobecco v2's oring is much tighter.. Seems to always unscrew the chimney unless its really cranked on.. And then the cap still wants to 'pop' off. Which was a mess once.. :confused:
 

pdxjlb

Member For 4 Years
What is the "steel o-ring" jazz about? Anyone heard of/used them? What is the point behind them, durability?
 

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