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whiteowl84

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Oh, Virol.
If that's your first clapton, when you do your next one, I'd try 36 as opposed to 40. 36 and 34 are great to start with.
38 and higher need a bit of skill to to work with.

I'm not saying not to get any 40 but I do think you'd have a better chance of getting it if you work up in size.

38 isn't too hard but if you make any mistake it is very noticeable. Like if you overlap or get a gap it's pretty obvious where you reversed the drill.

I've noticed that with 38, I can't hold the spool way out infront of the clapton I've made. It makes a gap every time. YMMV.

If you aren't working off the spool or you're using a bobbin, just ignore me. Lol.
 
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Lotus Insane

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I DID IT!
...sorry just excited, finally wrapped a clapton properly. So its a 26/36 kanthal parallel with a 28g. It's clocking in at .77Ω, I haven't even vaped it yet I was so excited to show you guys. Raymo, you and chef were right about wrapping is easier with the smaller gauge wire, after I got the technique down (one night attempting) I ended up wrapping enough for this single coil. I got this RDA specifically for fun builds so here goes nothing.
claptonyay.JPG
 

whiteowl84

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I have a question...raymo2u kind of sparked it.
Most regulated mods fall short in the amperage department making them less desirable for low ohm builds (DNA and Hohmwrecker excluded).

I'm thinking about a mech mod but I've never had one before. I got into this pretty late.

Can you fire 0.1ohm on a mech (safely)?
In series you double the voltage. In parallel you double the amperage.
The only way to get more amperage is to pull it with a lower ohm load.
So does that mean that you can fire a parallel box at half the resistance of a series box (safely)?

I'm just trying to figure out what sort of mech to get for staples and the like.
 

r055co

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I have a question...raymo2u kind of sparked it.
Most regulated mods fall short in the amperage department making them less desirable for low ohm builds (DNA and Hohmwrecker excluded).

I'm thinking about a mech mod but I've never had one before. I got into this pretty late.

Can you fire 0.1ohm on a mech (safely)?
In series you double the voltage. In parallel you double the amperage.
The only way to get more amperage is to pull it with a lower ohm load.
So does that mean that you can fire a parallel box at half the resistance of a series box (safely)?

I'm just trying to figure out what sort of mech to get for staples and the like.

Parallel you don't double the amps, you take full amp of the first battery then only add 1/2 of the other/others.

That's 40a, so you'd need at least a triple parallel mod for 20a batteries or a dual parallel with LG 30a hb2 batteries.

Single tube mod, you'll blow your face off.



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midknight420

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I have a question...raymo2u kind of sparked it.
Most regulated mods fall short in the amperage department making them less desirable for low ohm builds (DNA and Hohmwrecker excluded).

I'm thinking about a mech mod but I've never had one before. I got into this pretty late.

Can you fire 0.1ohm on a mech (safely)?
In series you double the voltage. In parallel you double the amperage.
The only way to get more amperage is to pull it with a lower ohm load.
So does that mean that you can fire a parallel box at half the resistance of a series box (safely)?

I'm just trying to figure out what sort of mech to get for staples and the like.
I know that with a series .4 is the lowest that you would want to try. I have a .25 running on my Titan tube mech mod. Build safe and mechs are AMAZING!

I'm not crazy, my mother had me tested.
 

Qlippoth

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I have a question...raymo2u kind of sparked it.
Most regulated mods fall short in the amperage department making them less desirable for low ohm builds (DNA and Hohmwrecker excluded).

I'm thinking about a mech mod but I've never had one before. I got into this pretty late.

Can you fire 0.1ohm on a mech (safely)?
In series you double the voltage. In parallel you double the amperage.
The only way to get more amperage is to pull it with a lower ohm load.
So does that mean that you can fire a parallel box at half the resistance of a series box (safely)?

I'm just trying to figure out what sort of mech to get for staples and the like.
I'm still trying to find my sweet spot on a single battery mech using fraples. Imho, that low (I've built a dual staggerton and tried it on my mech, both Hb6 and 25r and yes, I'm still alive. They don't instantly blow up) you get a couple of good vapes before battery sag makes it weak.

I'm in the process of doing a single coil for tubes and go at maybe .15. This current one is at .13 but it brings too much power for a small ssfc and I get dry hits.

You might want to look into triple parallel. Or the g2
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r055co

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I'm still trying to find my sweet spot on a single battery mech using fraples. Imho, that low (I've built a dual staggerton and tried it on my mech, both Hb6 and 25r and yes, I'm still alive. They don't instantly blow up) you get a couple of good vapes before battery sag makes it weak.

I'm in the process of doing a single coil for tubes and go at maybe .15. This current one is at .13 but it brings too much power for a small ssfc and I get dry hits.

You might want to look into triple parallel. Or the g2
d73156a0ce7347d6713e74fcc78e8822.jpg


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You damage the batteries and its not safe, especially for a newbie.

You can get one hell of a good Vape around 0.2 ohms. For the exotic builds under 0.15 ohms I have my Tres Equis and Vertex mods for them.

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whiteowl84

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Parallel you don't double the amps, you take full amp of the first battery then only add 1/2 of the other/others.

That's 40a, so you'd need at least a triple parallel mod for 20a batteries or a dual parallel with LG 30a hb2 batteries.

Single tube mod, you'll blow your face off.



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Where did the power go?
That would mean that a parallel box has less energy than a series box.


My math says that in a parallel box (4.2v) using a 0.12 ohm build (35a) I'm actually pulling 17.5a from each battery which is under their continuous rating, nevermind the pulse limit.
 

Qlippoth

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You damage the batteries and its not safe, especially for a newbie.

You can get one hell of a good Vape around 0.2 ohms. For the exotic builds under 0.15 ohms I have my Tres Equis and Vertex mods for them.

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Yes, it does. But it does not immediately go on thermal runaway, nor do they immediately vent especially since I am also using hb6s, and the 25r on occasion.

I meant no disrespect, but damaging a battery is far from stating that it immediately blows up. I think explaining the risks with it, just like how mooch did on his previous video, would be more appropriate. Correct me if I'm wrong, but battery sag comes into play as well and it will not draw a constant 35 amps on a .12 build especially on an unregulated.



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r055co

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Yes, it does. But it does not immediately go on thermal runaway, do they immediately vent especially since I am also using hb6s, and the 25r on occasion.

I meant no disrespect, but damaging a battery is far from stating that it immediately blows up. I think explaining the risks with it, just like how mooch did on his previous video, would be more appropriate. Correct me if I'm wrong, but battery sag comes into play as well and it will not draw a constant 35 amps on a .12 build especially on an unregulated.



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You damage your battery and continue to abuse it, it will vent. If you are using a tube mod with inadequate vent holes (most of them) the tube will become a pipe bomb.

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r055co

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Where did the power go?
That would mean that a parallel box has less energy than a series box.


My math says that in a parallel box (4.2v) using a 0.12 ohm build (35a) I'm actually pulling 17.5a from each battery which is under their continuous rating, nevermind the pulse limit.
Amps are lost, not quite 1/2 but close. So you just add 1/2 the amps of the consecutive batteries.

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whiteowl84

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But where did they go?
I have never heard that before. Capacity isn't all there but you can't just loose amperage like that because you configured them differently.
If the amperage is lost, it must be spent.

Why can I get double the amperage off two kinetic 2600s in parallel but not 18650s?
 

r055co

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But where did they go?
I have never heard that before. Capacity isn't all there but you can't just loose amperage like that because you configured them differently.
If the amperage is lost, it must be spent.

Why can I get double the amperage off two kinetic 2600s in parallel but not 18650s?
It's with any batteries in parallel, you loose the amps, figure 1/2 for the additional batteries. I used to think you doubled it until I read a post from Mooch and also talked to an electrician.

Look it up if you're still skeptical.

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whiteowl84

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I've been looking it up.
I've come to the conclusion that the load is split equally on both batterys.
Thus a parallel mech with 0.12ohm builds should be fine as each battery is getting hit half as hard.

How else are people firing dual staples on a mech?

Fuck it, I'll go ask mooch...
 

r055co

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I've been looking it up.
I've come to the conclusion that the load is split equally on both batterys.
Thus a parallel mech with 0.12ohm builds should be fine as each battery is getting hit half as hard.

How else are people firing dual staples on a mech?

Fuck it, I'll go ask mooch...
Yes, go ask Mooch

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Qlippoth

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I believe they use only half capacity of the second battery for safety measures, so instead of going 40, you use 30 amps to factor in ... i don't know to be honest. I only used series and very recently got a tube for whatever reason. IIRC, something about safety in case the batteries do not discharge equally, or if there's a bad connection on one battery.
 

whiteowl84

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We aren't factoring in the internal resistance of the cells but I'm not sure if it matters since thet aren't stacked.
 

whiteowl84

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Straight from the horse's mouth:

Mooch said:
Run the ohm's law equation to get the total current and then divide by two. This gets you the theoretical current per battery but the current sharng isn't perfect so assume the current can be 15% higher for any battery.


The battery's resistance is about 0.021-0.024 ohms when new, at room tenperature. It goes up as the battery ages and down as the battery gets warm. But if you're taking this into account you should take into account the positive and negative connection resistances, mod body resistance, atty body resistance, and coil connection resistance too. Not really needed though as all those end up adding a safety margin. :)


Lowest build resistance for dual HG2's? It's up to you for the way you vape and the degree of risk you want to take. I recommend staying under 25A/battery though.

So yeah. Like I thought, theres some inefficiency to factor in but it's very minimal.

Sorry for the de-rail.
 

Qlippoth

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Straight from the horse's mouth:



So yeah. Like I thought, theres some inefficiency to factor in but it's very minimal.

Sorry for the de-rail.
Inefficiency. That's the word. Haha.

Back to coils folks.

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r055co

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We aren't factoring in the internal resistance of the cells but I'm not sure if it matters since thet aren't stacked.
Inefficiency. That's the word. Haha.

Back to coils folks.

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Yep, you can push a bit over 1/2 the Ohms of the second, third, etc batteries but stay with 1/2. As I mentioned I have my triple parallel Mod's (Tres Equis and Vertex) for anything under 0.15 Ohms. But to be honest I've only went down to around 0.12 before and really don't enjoy it. If you build right you can get very good Vape around 0.17-0.2 Ohms. I don't enjoy a Vape where you can only take quick bursts, it's just not enjoyable. If one's in for blowing massive clouds my 0.17-02 builds put out some damn thick massive clouds. I'm more into flavor than clouds anyway. Also once in a while when I feel like being obnoxious I'll put a 0.5 build in my 30mm RDA's for my Big Pig and blow some seriously obnoxious clouds ;)
 

whiteowl84

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You know how big a dual 12ply/26g would have to be to come out to 0.2ohm?
My highest 12ply is 0.1ohm even.
4mm with 5.5 wraps...100w doesn't phase it. I suppose if I left out the frames it would be better but it's crazy hard to bend with out folding it.
It's not usually my goal to make an obnoxiously wide coil where you can only fit a few wraps but I do like having that option.

I got a red G2 for $60.
 
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Qlippoth

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I'll focus more on staggered builds the next couple of weeks until I get comfortable with the damn builds.

Half staggerton but not really? 2x28gn80/4x.4n80 staggered 38gn80 and framed with 4x.4n80. Fused with 38gn80 at .13 ohms
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whiteowl84

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Looks awesome, especially for something you aren't comfortable with.
I can't even see 36g.

Freehand?
 

Qlippoth

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Looks awesome, especially for something you aren't comfortable with.
I can't even see 36g.

Freehand?
Nope. I used my spinLT for that and space staggered with a loop.

However, when I put my ribbon slider, I clamped a bit too hard and when I adjusted it, some of the stagger moved. Hence, the uneven space in some. Decided to post anyway. Haha

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Dawn0810

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I also got the Gforce Earth Mod V2 today!

I tried a Double Stuffed SSFC in it but I wanted a warmer vape so I made some 4 Core Aliens using 27g Framing 26g/36g (All SS). At .06 Ohms and the mod pushing it without sweating and having a few hours of vape time on it Im in heaven! I LOVE the vape off of it, the 2A charging, the 80A CD, the size but the one thing Im not use to is the deck but Im thinking of trying some extensions on it next!

View attachment 61873 View attachment 61871 View attachment 61872 View attachment 61874 View attachment 61875 View attachment 61878 View attachment 61876 View attachment 61879 View attachment 61877

It comes in pink I must own one


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whiteowl84

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Looks great either way. I need to step up my stagger game.

The gforce looks like a cool mod indeed.
Good idea integrating a deck like that.
 
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raymo2u

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I actually took the Gforce apart...Im seriously considering gutting it and putting it into a Box and adding a 510 just so I can use my RDA's with its power...may buy another in the future if I decide to wait.

The mod itself is super simple.
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raymo2u

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My 2 Cordless drills died in the last few days, the Ryobi's charger went blank and doesnt charge and my black and deckers battery wont take a charge...Ive ordered a new charger for the Ryobi and iut should be here thursday.

But here are some pics of the builds/wire Ive made the last few days.

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whiteowl84

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I really like the zipper and the parallel build. No idea how you'd wick the last one. Lol.

Instead of gutting the g2, I'd get a few lipo packs and parallel them. What you'd put them in idk.
If I knew where to get a good mechanical switch and compatible 510, I'd make a mech.
 

raymo2u

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I really like the zipper and the parallel build. No idea how you'd wick the last one. Lol.

Instead of gutting the g2, I'd get a few lipo packs and parallel them. What you'd put them in idk.
If I knew where to get a good mechanical switch and compatible 510, I'd make a mech.
Gforce..not the G2.
Its a Hybrid Lipo Unregulated box mod with a RDA built in the top
80a CD
4000mAH
2A Charging

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raymo2u

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I ment v2, not g2. My bad.
If I understood how they made it so it regulates to 4V then I wouldnt hesitate to throiw some MaxAmps cells in a box and wire them up but I dont want to over tax its regulator so Im not going to dick around with it....If I do buy another one I may have some friends of mine take a look and see what the internals are and how its wired up and then maybe Ill just rig up some similar boxes....I just really want this amount of power and life into a Flask design with a centered 510. I could see if I could get a 3d printed flask made and wire it up..
 

whiteowl84

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If I understood how they made it so it regulates to 4V then I wouldnt hesitate to throiw some MaxAmps cells in a box and wire them up but I dont want to over tax its regulator so Im not going to dick around with it....If I do buy another one I may have some friends of mine take a look and see what the internals are and how its wired up and then maybe Ill just rig up some similar boxes....I just really want this amount of power and life into a Flask design with a centered 510. I could see if I could get a 3d printed flask made and wire it up..
Did you take a DMM to the leads?
It might not be regulated...could just be their choice of cells and how they wired them. And the ammount of charge supplied by the charging board.
 

whiteowl84

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Forgot to post this. It's just a staple but it's my first ones with no frames that survived the coiling process.
8ply 0.4mm, 36g. All Kanthal. I just started cleaning my A1 builds. I didn't know you could get teal, aqua and purple out of them. Just blue. =)


 

whiteowl84

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Few questions here.

1. Dutch0hms
What was the final load of that build?
And will you follow up the color shot when the n80 turns?

2. Any one
Is 28/38 small enough to make a zipper coil that vapes under 100w?
Or should I get some 30g?
They look like they would vape really well but I don't want something I can't use.

3. My 316l builds gunk up fast...3x faster than A1 or n80. Is there a way to prevent this? I've also had it turn my wicks red over night.
 
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Dutch0hms

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Few questions here.

1. Dutch0hms
What was the final load of that build?
And will you follow up the color shot when the n80 turns?

2. Any one
Is 28/38 small enough to make a zipper coil that vapes under 100w?
Or should I get some 30g?
They look like they would vape really well but I don't want something I can't use.

3. My 316l builds gunk up fast...3x faster than A1 or n80. Is there a way to prevent this? I've also had it turn my wicks red over night.
1. Pretty low i think due the parralel wire it ohmed out at 0.06.
I'll see if i can make a colourshot from the n80 when i got the time too.

3. Vape ur wicks dry before u put them away, see if it helps ;).
 

whiteowl84

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Way to go! It's a big moment in a builder's life.
24g and bigger are good gauges to start with. 32g A1 is a little stiff but it's totally do-able.
When you start your clapton, stay perfectly square/perpendicular with your spool and clapton. After you get 10 wraps or so start speeding up and stay about 10-20° in front of the clapton with the spool. You need pretty good tension on the spool to get 32g on the core tight (I'm sure you noticed).
Hold your spool horizontally instead of vertically. As the wire comes off the spool (vertically) it's moving from side to side which makes gaps. If you hold it horizontally it's going up and down which is just fine.
The biggest tip I have is to keep your spool about 8" to 12" from the core while you're leading it.
I'm not sure why but it will make the clapton more forgiving to your hand movements and inconsistencies. I had a hard time with overlaps and gaps before I started doing all this.
 

whiteowl84

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Thanks guys. I actually had to wrap this one twice. The first time I snagged on the carpet. I was surprised the ribbon lived.

I need moar n80!
 

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