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MrMeowgi

The Vapin' Drummer
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Flat Clapton. .3*.8/32 kanthal in the Bft plus.
54ec70c051a51a2ae7e5dae31d48099c.jpg


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Drake m

Member For 2 Years
Hey kinda random ? Here. but has any made a framed alien i think itd be called. 2×26 with 4×32 in the middle of those 26 wrapped in a 36 from a 24 decore? I gave it a try and just couldnt get the 32s to stay right. Id get about an inch and they would move. flatten again and same thing after an inch or so again.
 

mach1ne

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Hey kinda random ? Here. but has any made a framed alien i think itd be called. 2×26 with 4×32 in the middle of those 26 wrapped in a 36 from a 24 decore? I gave it a try and just couldnt get the 32s to stay right. Id get about an inch and they would move. flatten again and same thing after an inch or so again.
i have made a few of those. m.terk has a video on his youtube where he makes the build without alien wraps and calls it framed multistrand fused claptons, so i would call it framed multistrand aliens...

i used wire wizard to figure out width of the bundle in the middle, so it would be comparable to my frames, and i have used bundles of 36, 40 and 42 (as many strands as it takes to = your frame size). always a good vape. they seem to heat up a bit faster than regular, but as you noticed, they are a bit harder to keep parallel when wrapping. when i set up my cores to wrap the alien on, i put one paper clip per inch, and just knocked them off as i went. it still wasnt smooth sailing, but it almost never is...:cheers:
 

zaptear

Bronze Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Don’t know if this the right spot but I need help with a build for my new lipo mod I’m willing to pay someone to make me one I’m thinking .7 ohms

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7c5eafeb68cc87dda0a14d987fd50e72.jpg

4s lipo


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zaptear

Bronze Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Don’t know if this the right spot but I need help with a build for my new lipo mod I’m willing to pay someone to make me one I’m thinking .7 ohms

34085c27eb9d80af5a79ba9983eab2ee.jpg

d6cd8bb7fbce6ceff6d16bef3dd901bb.jpg



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CrazyChef v2.0

Gold Contributor
ECF Refugee
VU Challenge Team
Member For 5 Years
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VU Patreon
Decided to try one of those fancy schmancy builds to see how it vapes. I'm kinda hopin' the corrugated portion will hold a lot of juice? Not sure what I'm gonna put it in yet. Probably the CSMNT.

yTub59T.jpg

So I'm thinking the corrugated portion really does help with the juice. Surprisingly good flavor from this coil. But as much as I tend to lean towards single coil builds these days, I think that this coil would benefit from a dual coil build. I only made one, so I may have to try this again with two coils. I used all 0.4 ribbon on this one, maybe try the duals with 0.3 ribbon (all kanthal) to keep the resistance up a bit. Probably end up around 0.12Ω for a dual 0.3mm build. Also, maybe a bit tighter wind on the twisted frames.
 

Fudgey Finger

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Hell yeah to the staple coils. For me, nothing I've built yet gives better flavor than 8 .5 Ka1 wrapped with 40g

I still love my SSFC's though

edit- whoops I was responding to posts that were 2 pages ago and I thought I was on the most recent page. My b
 
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raymo2u

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Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Unlisted Vendor
Don't tell him that, you'll give him ideas! :D


That's my next coil. I just gotta find a place that sells ribbon. Gonna be a lot easier with ribbon for me I think.
http://www.kbeevapeswholesale.com/apps/webstore/products/show/6973288 , You do have to send a email of a logo and a logo image of your "company" to order from this place but its the most inexpensive ribbon there is. Just be sure to stretch it when using it.
There SS wire (besides ribbon) is also very inexpensive.
 

Fudgey Finger

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Why do you say to stretch it? I use kbee ribbon from their retail site.

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Twisted Vaping

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Tried my First Alien staggs Tonight.
Used all N80, 5 Strands 28G and 36G for stagger and fuse.
Hope the next attempt will get cleaner, the right spacing is really challinging.
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Afterwards made some groove fused staple Staggertons
6x0.3 claptoned with 36, Framed with 28G and fused with 42G
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Also was a First try
 

Twisted Vaping

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
After that got Bored and Tried corrugated SSFC also as a First attempt. Decided to Go skip fused to Show the cores. 4x0.3 ribbon, 28Ga frames and 36G
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For my Daily vape i drilled some Interlocking fraliens.
6x0.3 with 27 Frames and 36G Alien Sitting in my Avcocado24
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After That made some interlock fraliens for a buddy Same specs but 38G Alien.
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Jriley

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Why do you say to stretch it? I use kbee ribbon from their retail site.

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Because most ribbon builders use is .3 some .4 those especially .3 will not come off the spool nice and flat it will have twists and turns and in general when you prep it's best to get in the habit to stretch even if it's a little to make everything nice and straight

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raymo2u

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Member For 4 Years
Unlisted Vendor
If you use Coil Society Ribbon wire or Kidney Punch then the wire comes off the spool straight, no stretching needed.
When stretching you only need to pull a vry small amount to make it straighten, pulling too much will thin out the ribbon as previously stated

@Twisted Vaping nice work!
 

Twisted Vaping

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
@Twisted Vaping[/USER] nice work!
Thanks a lot ray!

I'm planning my second attempt at the Alien staggs, do you flatten the staggered inner portion before fusing?
Forgot to flatten my Build at all and am a bit p**** cause After coiling it did not Look half as clean als the wird before wrapping.
 

raymo2u

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Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
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Thanks a lot ray!

I'm planning my second attempt at the Alien staggs, do you flatten the staggered inner portion before fusing?
Forgot to flatten my Build at all and am a bit p**** cause After coiling it did not Look half as clean als the wird before wrapping.

Nope, just proceed making a basic alien (3x28g/36g) for the core, try stretching the decore as much as you would for a basic alien. Then hold the decore at a strong forward angle and use tension to control the spacing but if you have the decore stretched so you wouldnt need much tension to create a normal alien then the same will apply for making the spaced alien and that helps make more consistent spacing.
Shoot for around .7 of a millimeter per space. You can use a pasta roller to flatten the wire or just use your coil jig rolling it in your hand.

I always make the 24g decore first and set it aside, that way you can jump directly into making the alien, then frame it and then fuse it....simple and easy.
 

Twisted Vaping

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Much appretiate your tipps, Great THX!
Will try again tomorrow. But have to say FOR ME the Fraliens perform better with better Flavour than the Alien Staggertons. I am a Bit disapointed... Maybe i‘ll try these with a Framed staple (3ply 0.3 with 28 frames) that should have around the same dimensions.
Since i made this Build all N80 it ohmed pur at 0.095 Ohms ....

Anyway Tried another Staple Groove Fused, this Time with 28G Clapton with 36g in the middle, 6x0.3 and 28 Frames fused with 42G.
Should Ohm out at around 0.09 with 5 wraps 3mm. Pretty happy with Them, Looking really awesome
9B69700A-72D8-4CC8-98EF-64A3247AF5EE.jpeg
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raymo2u

VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Unlisted Vendor
Much appretiate your tipps, Great THX!
Will try again tomorrow. But have to say FOR ME the Fraliens perform better with better Flavour than the Alien Staggertons. I am a Bit disapointed... Maybe i‘ll try these with a Framed staple (3ply 0.3 with 28 frames) that should have around the same dimensions.
Since i made this Build all N80 it ohmed pur at 0.095 Ohms ....

Anyway Tried another Staple Groove Fused, this Time with 28G Clapton with 36g in the middle, 6x0.3 and 28 Frames fused with 42G.
Should Ohm out at around 0.09 with 5 wraps 3mm. Pretty happy with Them, Looking really awesome
View attachment 96957
View attachment 96958
Well you did make them 5 wraps...
They Perform best with all SS (4 Wraps/3mm ID) on a Mechanical Device, I havent found anything other than 5 Core 28g/40g SS (4 Wraps/3mm ID)
 

Fudgey Finger

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
First attempt at corrugated SSFC. I tried to have a mix of straight ribbon and crimped at first but I was having issues so I swapped the straight out for all crimped cores. 6 ply 0.3x0.1 KA1, 28g KA1 frames, 38g ss316l wrap. Usually I like to make my SSFC's with tight staggered wraps but I thought I would try a wider pattern so that I could really see the cores well.

They aren't perfect by any stretch but I will improve.

Edit- ohms at 0.15 dual mounted in my ammit dual that just showed up today.
de482a11e418712c26291b89b53b58a6.jpg
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Twisted Vaping

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Well you did make them 5 wraps...
They Perform best with all SS (4 Wraps/3mm ID) on a Mechanical Device, I havent found anything other than 5 Core 28g/40g SS (4 Wraps/3mm ID)
Hmmmm okay i see...
Haven‘t Build with SS for a year now cause i dont really like the taste.

If i did my Math Right, a 4 Wrap Alien Stagg with these specs would Ohm @ 0.069 Single, so a Dual would be under 0.04 what is just insane low for me. My comfort Zone in my Dual parallel mech ends at 0.09 maybe 0.08 Ohm, so even a Single coil would be out of Range.
0.07 Ohm draws around 250 Watts at 4,2 Volts.

By the way, super clean Helix Respect!
 

raymo2u

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Member For 4 Years
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Hmmmm okay i see...
Haven‘t Build with SS for a year now cause i dont really like the taste.

If i did my Math Right, a 4 Wrap Alien Stagg with these specs would Ohm @ 0.069 Single, so a Dual would be under 0.04 what is just insane low for me. My comfort Zone in my Dual parallel mech ends at 0.09 maybe 0.08 Ohm, so even a Single coil would be out of Range.
0.07 Ohm draws around 250 Watts at 4,2 Volts.

By the way, super clean Helix Respect!
Its around .07 Dual Coils 4 Wraps/3mm ID with All SS, thats also just starting resisance becuase its SS the resistance will jump to around .09 after the first pull

The resistance guideline is good for beginners but dont take it as set in stone science...it was a basic rule so newbie vapers didnt use 18g N80 4 wrap coils on a 10a cell and end up venting the cell.

Just a bit of info to give you a clearer picture.
Mooch himself uses 80 Degrees Celsius to rate the CONTINUOUS Discharge of cells, 80C is just under the temp of BOILING WATER....too hot too touch! So if your not pushing the cell to a temp that its too hot to touch then your not even pushing its CD Rating...I vape tube mods with VTC5a cells topped with .07-.09 Ohm builds, all day every day and have for well over a year and I dont recall any point where a cell was anywhere near "too hot!"....they have gotten pretty warm, but not boiling water hot....but we also dont vape using cells at Continuous Discharge...we are more into their pulse ratings and voltage drop per time drained...Continuous Discharge is more like a beginners guideline to safely stay in boundaries but they are not the absolute limit for how we vape.

On another Note...think of it this way for builds...

A .1 Ohm or even a .2 Ohm build that takes 2-3 seconds to ramp up before vaping fully on a mech is harder on a cell then a .06 ohm build that needs less then a half a second to ramp up.
You may not be draining as many amps from the cell but the period of time is much greater on the higher resistance build. Time vs Drain is more important then Resistance/Amp pull because your not going to draw on that .06 build for more then 2 seconds, if that.

Something that has multiple thinner cores with lower resistance that lights up/cools down instantly will always be easier on a cell then a thick ass high resistance build that takes its time to warm up and then time to cool down.

I know Im a leading jackass on the forum and "Im crazy for vaping what I do" but I also know the risks. I completely understand what Im doing and I do keep a great record of what cells Im using for what Im using them for and I can tell you that the cells I use in Tube mods for my .07 daily bangers dont show any more diminished capacity versus the batteries in my regulated mods that fire my wife's .4 ohm RTA builds...All the cells Im still testing are atleast over a year old and the capacity of them has evenly diminished around 15%. (Yes Im trusted enough to test cells at my own risk)

The Cells you own that are from the 5 Main Battery Companies are Class A Cells, to get a Class A Rating the batch must pass a test that replicates a dead short for 30 seconds, if the tested cell doesnt pass then its tossed, if it heats up too quickly or has other errors its classed as a type B (Efest/ other Rewraps). Your batteries wont vent even at .04 if used for less then 3 second pulses every 30 seconds until it drops under the minimum volt limit. So fear not...
 
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Jriley

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Its around .07 Dual Coils 4 Wraps/3mm ID with All SS, thats also just starting resisance becuase its SS the resistance will jump to around .09 after the first pull

The resistance guideline is good for beginners but dont take it as set in stone science...it was a basic rule so newbie vapers didnt use 18g N80 4 wrap coils on a 10a cell and end up venting the cell.

Just a bit of info to give you a clearer picture.
Mooch himself uses 80 Degrees Celsius to rate the CONTINUOUS Discharge of cells, 80C is just under the temp of BOILING WATER....too hot too touch! So if your not pushing the cell to a temp that its too hot to touch then your not even pushing its CD Rating...I vape tube mods with VTC5a cells topped with .07-.09 Ohm builds, all day every day and have for well over a year and I dont recall any point where a cell was anywhere near "too hot!"....they have gotten pretty warm, but not boiling water hot....but we also dont vape using cells at Continuous Discharge...we are more into their pulse ratings and voltage drop per time drained...Continuous Discharge is more like a beginners guideline to safely stay in boundaries but they are not the absolute limit for how we vape.

On another Note...think of it this way for builds...

A .1 Ohm or even a .2 Ohm build that takes 2-3 seconds to ramp up before vaping fully on a mech is harder on a cell then a .06 ohm build that needs less then a half a second to ramp up.
You may not be draining as many amps from the cell but the period of time is much greater on the higher resistance build. Time vs Drain is more important then Resistance/Amp pull because your not going to draw on that .06 build for more then 2 seconds, if that.

Something that has multiple thinner cores with lower resistance that lights up/cools down instantly will always be easier on a cell then a thick ass high resistance build that takes its time to warm up and then time to cool down.

I know Im a leading jackass on the forum and "Im crazy for vaping what I do" but I also know the risks. I completely understand what Im doing and I do keep a great record of what cells Im using for what Im using them for and I can tell you that the cells I use in Tube mods for my .07 daily bangers dont show any more diminished capacity versus the batteries in my regulated mods that fire my wife's .4 ohm RTA builds...All the cells Im still testing are atleast over a year old and the capacity of them has evenly diminished around 15%. (Yes Im trusted enough to test cells at my own risk)

The Cells you own that are from the 5 Main Battery Companies ae Class A Cells, to get a Class A Rating the batch must pass a test that replicates a dead short for 30 seconds, if the tested cell doesnt pass then its tossed, if it heats up too quickly or has other errors its classed as a type B (efest/ other Rewraps). Your batteries wont vent even at .04 if used for less then 3 second pulses every 30 seconds until it drops under the minimum volt limit. So fear not...

.07 all SS errday

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Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
Its around .07 Dual Coils 4 Wraps/3mm ID with All SS, thats also just starting resisance becuase its SS the resistance will jump to around .09 after the first pull

The resistance guideline is good for beginners but dont take it as set in stone science...it was a basic rule so newbie vapers didnt use 18g N80 4 wrap coils on a 10a cell and end up venting the cell.

Just a bit of info to give you a clearer picture.
Mooch himself uses 80 Degrees Celsius to rate the CONTINUOUS Discharge of cells, 80C is just under the temp of BOILING WATER....too hot too touch! So if your not pushing the cell to a temp that its too hot to touch then your not even pushing its CD Rating...I vape tube mods with VTC5a cells topped with .07-.09 Ohm builds, all day every day and have for well over a year and I dont recall any point where a cell was anywhere near "too hot!"....they have gotten pretty warm, but not boiling water hot....but we also dont vape using cells at Continuous Discharge...we are more into their pulse ratings and voltage drop per time drained...Continuous Discharge is more like a beginners guideline to safely stay in boundaries but they are not the absolute limit for how we vape.

On another Note...think of it this way for builds...

A .1 Ohm or even a .2 Ohm build that takes 2-3 seconds to ramp up before vaping fully on a mech is harder on a cell then a .06 ohm build that needs less then a half a second to ramp up.
You may not be draining as many amps from the cell but the period of time is much greater on the higher resistance build. Time vs Drain is more important then Resistance/Amp pull because your not going to draw on that .06 build for more then 2 seconds, if that.

Something that has multiple thinner cores with lower resistance that lights up/cools down instantly will always be easier on a cell then a thick ass high resistance build that takes its time to warm up and then time to cool down.

I know Im a leading jackass on the forum and "Im crazy for vaping what I do" but I also know the risks. I completely understand what Im doing and I do keep a great record of what cells Im using for what Im using them for and I can tell you that the cells I use in Tube mods for my .07 daily bangers dont show any more diminished capacity versus the batteries in my regulated mods that fire my wife's .4 ohm RTA builds...All the cells Im still testing are atleast over a year old and the capacity of them has evenly diminished around 15%. (Yes Im trusted enough to test cells at my own risk)

The Cells you own that are from the 5 Main Battery Companies are Class A Cells, to get a Class A Rating the batch must pass a test that replicates a dead short for 30 seconds, if the tested cell doesnt pass then its tossed, if it heats up too quickly or has other errors its classed as a type B (Efest/ other Rewraps). Your batteries wont vent even at .04 if used for less then 3 second pulses every 30 seconds until it drops under the minimum volt limit. So fear not...
The CDR is to compare different batteries... how they perform. That's it.

Mooch also lists the MVA ratings for a regulated mod user as well as for those people whose fire button on their mech mod can get pressed accidentally for a long time. Mine can't, because I see to that, and so I go above the MVA because I'm smart enough to know I'm not a retard. :)

Rewraps generally perform one or two percent worse than their non-rewrap counterpart, and are generally more expensive despite they perform a tad worse. However, that is not necessarily always true (for example, the fairly popular 5-legged iJoy 20700 finally turned out to be a rewrap of the Molicel 20700 that Mooch recently tested, yet they performed exactly the same, whereas other─Efest/Ampking/EBAT/Keeppower/EnerCig─rewraps of this same battery did perform a tad worse), and, as for grade A batteries, grade B batteries, grade C batteries... just listen to Mooch's explanation here:
Code:
https://youtu.be/jg1M7QQVIAQ?t=498
 

raymo2u

VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Unlisted Vendor
The CDR is to compare different batteries... how they perform. That's it.

Mooch also lists the MVA ratings for a regulated mod user as well as for those people whose fire button on their mech mod can get pressed accidentally for a long time. Mine can't, because I see to that, and so I go above the MVA because I'm smart enough to know I'm not a retard. :)

Rewraps generally perform one or two percent worse than their non-rewrap counterpart, and are generally more expensive despite they perform a tad worse. However, that is not necessarily always true (for example, the fairly popular 5-legged iJoy 20700 finally turned out to be a rewrap of the Molicel 20700 that Mooch recently tested, yet they performed exactly the same, whereas other─Efest/Ampking/EBAT/Keeppower/EnerCig─rewraps of this same battery did perform a tad worse), and, as for grade A batteries, grade B batteries, grade C batteries... just listen to Mooch's explanation here:
Code:
https://youtu.be/jg1M7QQVIAQ?t=498
Are you calling me a Retard?
I know...I know..I just didnt want to face it :oops:

You wouldnt believe some of the seasoned builders Ive met who have jumped down my throat for using builds that exceeded the CDR of my cells...this is why I point out the CDR/Heat stuff, its good for many but its not something you HAVE TO follow

I rarely have a mod in my pocket or in a circumstance where it could fire without me knowing, so I can go full retard with my builds.

Moral is dont buy rewraps! VTC5a cells for 18650 and I still like the Ijoys...only because they are really the only thing available in 20700 for now
 
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KarmicRage

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
I've been using the Sanyo 20700's but only the 10a in my captain pd270 with no problems. I'm generally only using a single coil and they haven't been proper low ohm builds. I know that's regulated and you quite like your mech but they've served me well upto now. Last me over a day with my usage like

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Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
Are you calling me a Retard?
I know...I know..I just didnt want to face it :oops:
LOL!
You wouldnt believe some of the seasoned builders Ive met who have jumped down my throat for using builds that exceeded the CDR of my cells...this is why I point out the CDR/Heat stuff, its good for many but its not something you HAVE TO follow
As a matter of true fact I do believe you because I can see for myself how many ohms nazis are replying to questions about battery safety on the mech. They really are just everywhere... what bothers me so much about them is, that whole video I linked in my previous reply contains 500 times more useful knowledge about batteries than all of the ohms nazi replies combined, if not more than 500.
I rarely have a mod in my pocket or in a circumstance where it could fire without me knowing, so I can go full retard with my builds.
Amen... albeit I'm wearing my Deathwish Modz T-shirt as I'm typing this. :devil:
Moral is dont buy rewraps! VTC5a cells for 18650 and I still like the Ijoys...only because they are really the only thing available in 20700 for now
Moral IMO is buy rewraps only if Mooch says they are fully identical in performance as their non-rewrap counterpart and you have no other choice. The Vapcell Gold 20700 is every bit the same as the Sanyo NCR20700A, but I still can't find either one of those in Europe... whereas akkuteile.de carries both the iJoy 5-legged 20700 and the iJoy 26650, and that site is also on Mooch's trusted vendors list. (For the Sony VTC5A, I go to nkon.nl ).
 

mach1ne

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Hey kinda random ? Here. but has any made a framed alien i think itd be called. 2×26 with 4×32 in the middle of those 26 wrapped in a 36 from a 24 decore? I gave it a try and just couldnt get the 32s to stay right. Id get about an inch and they would move. flatten again and same thing after an inch or so again.
heres a pair with 26 frames and 4x34 in the middle, and polished alien wraps (because i claimed i was going to make polished aliens a while ago and never came through)
polished framed multistrand aliens1.JPG
polished framed multistrand aliens2.JPG
 

Fudgey Finger

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Very nice. What's the difference between a Mohawk and enigma? I know the Mohawk is backwards wrapped and the enigma is an under-stretched alien, but how is the final product different?

Nice SFC's too btw. I love SFC's, I don't think they get enough love.

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KarmicRage

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Love me a staggered fused Clapton. 1st more complex coil I did and it gave me the confidence to try more. Lovely colour BTW Raymo, loving the reds in it :)
Update. Think I'll have to try having the staged wire just on the inside of the complex coil too as I just can't seem to get the outer wraps to stay straight when coiling say a 5/6 wrap stage wire around a 4/5 complex coil. Always seems to look tidier on your builds in my opinion.
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KarmicRage

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Also Fudgeyfinger a mohawk is only 1 stretched decore wire wrapped around your core wire, an enigma is 2 parallel decores wrapped together if that makes sense

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Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
Love me a staggered fused Clapton. 1st more complex coil I did and it gave me the confidence to try more. Lovely colour BTW Raymo, loving the reds in it :)
Update. Think I'll have to try having the staged wire just on the inside of the complex coil too as I just can't seem to get the outer wraps to stay straight when coiling say a 5/6 wrap stage wire around a 4/5 complex coil. Always seems to look tidier on your builds in my opinion.
Sent from my MI MAX 2 using Tapatalk
Here's what I used on my last build before I coiled it up. Fuck springiness! :D

46512539_s-soldeerbranders-5411244601000-soldeerbrander-toolland.jpg
 

KarmicRage

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Lmao overkill, overkill. I used to torch my wires before I learned how to colour and the I started doing it on the deck instead. Suppose I could always torch the staged wire as it won't effect the larger coil being coloured. I'll give it a try and see how I get on.

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Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
Lmao overkill, overkill. I used to torch my wires before I learned how to colour and the I started doing it on the deck instead. Suppose I could always torch the staged wire as it won't effect the larger coil being coloured. I'll give it a try and see how I get on.

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No, I meant that my first attempt at coiling up a pair of staple coils has taught me the springiness is what causes the coiling up to be a royal PITA. Keeping constant firm tension whilst I coiled it up was not a solution that worked, but on my second attempt I used a torch before I coiled it up, and then the coiling up went a lot better because of that.
 

Jriley

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Btw.... A mohawk is a understretched alien. That's it

An enigma doesn't have to be 2 wires but it does need to be double of what your wrapping, an alien is 3:1 enigma is 6:1.

An enigma will have a more pronounced rounded middle section , mohawk will be more of a point. But both vape the same.. super pewpy

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Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
If you use Coil Society Ribbon wire or Kidney Punch then the wire comes off the spool straight, no stretching needed.
When stretching you only need to pull a vry small amount to make it straighten, pulling too much will thin out the ribbon as previously stated

@Twisted Vaping nice work!
I'm using Wireworks .4×.1 Ni80 ribbon and it comes off the spool straight.
 

Jriley

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Working on my aliens. Pretty happy with how this one came out as well as how easy it's getting for me.

5.5 wraps on a 2.5mm bit
3x28g n80, 34g n80 wrap
Ohms about .17
9a3f95e2fdd43a07689e0c609da6e59d.jpg
8e39ea69232e0c6619ef34482ed02831.jpg


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You'll find it effortless the higher you go in gauge for your alien.. I know it wouldn't seem like it, but it is lol

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Fudgey Finger

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Thanks for the tip. I felt like I was using a lot of tension when I made these, I assume the thicker gauge is the reason for that.
 

Jriley

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Thanks for the tip. I felt like I was using a lot of tension when I made these, I assume the thicker gauge is the reason for that.
Yep, using thicker gauge meens you have to stretch perfectly. 40G you can no stretch if wanted, I just understretch find the tension and let a rip

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KarmicRage

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Tidier than my first Aliens dude. JRiley is right though, no matter how counter intuitive it seems, getting a good speed on the drill just seems to make Aliens fall into place.

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