i have made a few of those. m.terk has a video on his youtube where he makes the build without alien wraps and calls it framed multistrand fused claptons, so i would call it framed multistrand aliens...Hey kinda random ? Here. but has any made a framed alien i think itd be called. 2×26 with 4×32 in the middle of those 26 wrapped in a 36 from a 24 decore? I gave it a try and just couldnt get the 32s to stay right. Id get about an inch and they would move. flatten again and same thing after an inch or so again.
Don’t know if this the right spot but I need help with a build for my new lipo mod I’m willing to pay someone to make me one I’m thinking .7 ohms
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Decided to try one of those fancy schmancy builds to see how it vapes. I'm kinda hopin' the corrugated portion will hold a lot of juice? Not sure what I'm gonna put it in yet. Probably the CSMNT.
Be schmancy soon as it's installed. Beautiful coil like la
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http://www.kbeevapeswholesale.com/apps/webstore/products/show/6973288 , You do have to send a email of a logo and a logo image of your "company" to order from this place but its the most inexpensive ribbon there is. Just be sure to stretch it when using it.Don't tell him that, you'll give him ideas!
That's my next coil. I just gotta find a place that sells ribbon. Gonna be a lot easier with ribbon for me I think.
Because most ribbon builders use is .3 some .4 those especially .3 will not come off the spool nice and flat it will have twists and turns and in general when you prep it's best to get in the habit to stretch even if it's a little to make everything nice and straightWhy do you say to stretch it? I use kbee ribbon from their retail site.
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Thanks a lot ray!@Twisted Vaping[/USER] nice work!
Thanks a lot ray!
I'm planning my second attempt at the Alien staggs, do you flatten the staggered inner portion before fusing?
Forgot to flatten my Build at all and am a bit p**** cause After coiling it did not Look half as clean als the wird before wrapping.
Well you did make them 5 wraps...Much appretiate your tipps, Great THX!
Will try again tomorrow. But have to say FOR ME the Fraliens perform better with better Flavour than the Alien Staggertons. I am a Bit disapointed... Maybe i‘ll try these with a Framed staple (3ply 0.3 with 28 frames) that should have around the same dimensions.
Since i made this Build all N80 it ohmed pur at 0.095 Ohms ....
Anyway Tried another Staple Groove Fused, this Time with 28G Clapton with 36g in the middle, 6x0.3 and 28 Frames fused with 42G.
Should Ohm out at around 0.09 with 5 wraps 3mm. Pretty happy with Them, Looking really awesome
View attachment 96957
View attachment 96958
Hmmmm okay i see...Well you did make them 5 wraps...
They Perform best with all SS (4 Wraps/3mm ID) on a Mechanical Device, I havent found anything other than 5 Core 28g/40g SS (4 Wraps/3mm ID)
Its around .07 Dual Coils 4 Wraps/3mm ID with All SS, thats also just starting resisance becuase its SS the resistance will jump to around .09 after the first pullHmmmm okay i see...
Haven‘t Build with SS for a year now cause i dont really like the taste.
If i did my Math Right, a 4 Wrap Alien Stagg with these specs would Ohm @ 0.069 Single, so a Dual would be under 0.04 what is just insane low for me. My comfort Zone in my Dual parallel mech ends at 0.09 maybe 0.08 Ohm, so even a Single coil would be out of Range.
0.07 Ohm draws around 250 Watts at 4,2 Volts.
By the way, super clean Helix Respect!
️️Its around .07 Dual Coils 4 Wraps/3mm ID with All SS, thats also just starting resisance becuase its SS the resistance will jump to around .09 after the first pull
The resistance guideline is good for beginners but dont take it as set in stone science...it was a basic rule so newbie vapers didnt use 18g N80 4 wrap coils on a 10a cell and end up venting the cell.
Just a bit of info to give you a clearer picture.
Mooch himself uses 80 Degrees Celsius to rate the CONTINUOUS Discharge of cells, 80C is just under the temp of BOILING WATER....too hot too touch! So if your not pushing the cell to a temp that its too hot to touch then your not even pushing its CD Rating...I vape tube mods with VTC5a cells topped with .07-.09 Ohm builds, all day every day and have for well over a year and I dont recall any point where a cell was anywhere near "too hot!"....they have gotten pretty warm, but not boiling water hot....but we also dont vape using cells at Continuous Discharge...we are more into their pulse ratings and voltage drop per time drained...Continuous Discharge is more like a beginners guideline to safely stay in boundaries but they are not the absolute limit for how we vape.
On another Note...think of it this way for builds...
A .1 Ohm or even a .2 Ohm build that takes 2-3 seconds to ramp up before vaping fully on a mech is harder on a cell then a .06 ohm build that needs less then a half a second to ramp up.
You may not be draining as many amps from the cell but the period of time is much greater on the higher resistance build. Time vs Drain is more important then Resistance/Amp pull because your not going to draw on that .06 build for more then 2 seconds, if that.
Something that has multiple thinner cores with lower resistance that lights up/cools down instantly will always be easier on a cell then a thick ass high resistance build that takes its time to warm up and then time to cool down.
I know Im a leading jackass on the forum and "Im crazy for vaping what I do" but I also know the risks. I completely understand what Im doing and I do keep a great record of what cells Im using for what Im using them for and I can tell you that the cells I use in Tube mods for my .07 daily bangers dont show any more diminished capacity versus the batteries in my regulated mods that fire my wife's .4 ohm RTA builds...All the cells Im still testing are atleast over a year old and the capacity of them has evenly diminished around 15%. (Yes Im trusted enough to test cells at my own risk)
The Cells you own that are from the 5 Main Battery Companies ae Class A Cells, to get a Class A Rating the batch must pass a test that replicates a dead short for 30 seconds, if the tested cell doesnt pass then its tossed, if it heats up too quickly or has other errors its classed as a type B (efest/ other Rewraps). Your batteries wont vent even at .04 if used for less then 3 second pulses every 30 seconds until it drops under the minimum volt limit. So fear not...
Er'day️️
.07 all SS errday
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The CDR is to compare different batteries... how they perform. That's it.Its around .07 Dual Coils 4 Wraps/3mm ID with All SS, thats also just starting resisance becuase its SS the resistance will jump to around .09 after the first pull
The resistance guideline is good for beginners but dont take it as set in stone science...it was a basic rule so newbie vapers didnt use 18g N80 4 wrap coils on a 10a cell and end up venting the cell.
Just a bit of info to give you a clearer picture.
Mooch himself uses 80 Degrees Celsius to rate the CONTINUOUS Discharge of cells, 80C is just under the temp of BOILING WATER....too hot too touch! So if your not pushing the cell to a temp that its too hot to touch then your not even pushing its CD Rating...I vape tube mods with VTC5a cells topped with .07-.09 Ohm builds, all day every day and have for well over a year and I dont recall any point where a cell was anywhere near "too hot!"....they have gotten pretty warm, but not boiling water hot....but we also dont vape using cells at Continuous Discharge...we are more into their pulse ratings and voltage drop per time drained...Continuous Discharge is more like a beginners guideline to safely stay in boundaries but they are not the absolute limit for how we vape.
On another Note...think of it this way for builds...
A .1 Ohm or even a .2 Ohm build that takes 2-3 seconds to ramp up before vaping fully on a mech is harder on a cell then a .06 ohm build that needs less then a half a second to ramp up.
You may not be draining as many amps from the cell but the period of time is much greater on the higher resistance build. Time vs Drain is more important then Resistance/Amp pull because your not going to draw on that .06 build for more then 2 seconds, if that.
Something that has multiple thinner cores with lower resistance that lights up/cools down instantly will always be easier on a cell then a thick ass high resistance build that takes its time to warm up and then time to cool down.
I know Im a leading jackass on the forum and "Im crazy for vaping what I do" but I also know the risks. I completely understand what Im doing and I do keep a great record of what cells Im using for what Im using them for and I can tell you that the cells I use in Tube mods for my .07 daily bangers dont show any more diminished capacity versus the batteries in my regulated mods that fire my wife's .4 ohm RTA builds...All the cells Im still testing are atleast over a year old and the capacity of them has evenly diminished around 15%. (Yes Im trusted enough to test cells at my own risk)
The Cells you own that are from the 5 Main Battery Companies are Class A Cells, to get a Class A Rating the batch must pass a test that replicates a dead short for 30 seconds, if the tested cell doesnt pass then its tossed, if it heats up too quickly or has other errors its classed as a type B (Efest/ other Rewraps). Your batteries wont vent even at .04 if used for less then 3 second pulses every 30 seconds until it drops under the minimum volt limit. So fear not...
https://youtu.be/jg1M7QQVIAQ?t=498
Are you calling me a Retard?The CDR is to compare different batteries... how they perform. That's it.
Mooch also lists the MVA ratings for a regulated mod user as well as for those people whose fire button on their mech mod can get pressed accidentally for a long time. Mine can't, because I see to that, and so I go above the MVA because I'm smart enough to know I'm not a retard.
Rewraps generally perform one or two percent worse than their non-rewrap counterpart, and are generally more expensive despite they perform a tad worse. However, that is not necessarily always true (for example, the fairly popular 5-legged iJoy 20700 finally turned out to be a rewrap of the Molicel 20700 that Mooch recently tested, yet they performed exactly the same, whereas other─Efest/Ampking/EBAT/Keeppower/EnerCig─rewraps of this same battery did perform a tad worse), and, as for grade A batteries, grade B batteries, grade C batteries... just listen to Mooch's explanation here:Code:https://youtu.be/jg1M7QQVIAQ?t=498
LOL!Are you calling me a Retard?
I know...I know..I just didnt want to face it
As a matter of true fact I do believe you because I can see for myself how many ohms nazis are replying to questions about battery safety on the mech. They really are just everywhere... what bothers me so much about them is, that whole video I linked in my previous reply contains 500 times more useful knowledge about batteries than all of the ohms nazi replies combined, if not more than 500.You wouldnt believe some of the seasoned builders Ive met who have jumped down my throat for using builds that exceeded the CDR of my cells...this is why I point out the CDR/Heat stuff, its good for many but its not something you HAVE TO follow
Amen... albeit I'm wearing my Deathwish Modz T-shirt as I'm typing this.I rarely have a mod in my pocket or in a circumstance where it could fire without me knowing, so I can go full retard with my builds.
Moral IMO is buy rewraps only if Mooch says they are fully identical in performance as their non-rewrap counterpart and you have no other choice. The Vapcell Gold 20700 is every bit the same as the Sanyo NCR20700A, but I still can't find either one of those in Europe... whereas akkuteile.de carries both the iJoy 5-legged 20700 and the iJoy 26650, and that site is also on Mooch's trusted vendors list. (For the Sony VTC5A, I go to nkon.nl ).Moral is dont buy rewraps! VTC5a cells for 18650 and I still like the Ijoys...only because they are really the only thing available in 20700 for now
heres a pair with 26 frames and 4x34 in the middle, and polished alien wraps (because i claimed i was going to make polished aliens a while ago and never came through)Hey kinda random ? Here. but has any made a framed alien i think itd be called. 2×26 with 4×32 in the middle of those 26 wrapped in a 36 from a 24 decore? I gave it a try and just couldnt get the 32s to stay right. Id get about an inch and they would move. flatten again and same thing after an inch or so again.
Here's what I used on my last build before I coiled it up. Fuck springiness!Love me a staggered fused Clapton. 1st more complex coil I did and it gave me the confidence to try more. Lovely colour BTW Raymo, loving the reds in it
Update. Think I'll have to try having the staged wire just on the inside of the complex coil too as I just can't seem to get the outer wraps to stay straight when coiling say a 5/6 wrap stage wire around a 4/5 complex coil. Always seems to look tidier on your builds in my opinion.
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No, I meant that my first attempt at coiling up a pair of staple coils has taught me the springiness is what causes the coiling up to be a royal PITA. Keeping constant firm tension whilst I coiled it up was not a solution that worked, but on my second attempt I used a torch before I coiled it up, and then the coiling up went a lot better because of that.Lmao overkill, overkill. I used to torch my wires before I learned how to colour and the I started doing it on the deck instead. Suppose I could always torch the staged wire as it won't effect the larger coil being coloured. I'll give it a try and see how I get on.
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I'm using Wireworks .4×.1 Ni80 ribbon and it comes off the spool straight.If you use Coil Society Ribbon wire or Kidney Punch then the wire comes off the spool straight, no stretching needed.
When stretching you only need to pull a vry small amount to make it straighten, pulling too much will thin out the ribbon as previously stated
@Twisted Vaping nice work!
You'll find it effortless the higher you go in gauge for your alien.. I know it wouldn't seem like it, but it is lolWorking on my aliens. Pretty happy with how this one came out as well as how easy it's getting for me.
5.5 wraps on a 2.5mm bit
3x28g n80, 34g n80 wrap
Ohms about .17
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Yep, using thicker gauge meens you have to stretch perfectly. 40G you can no stretch if wanted, I just understretch find the tension and let a ripThanks for the tip. I felt like I was using a lot of tension when I made these, I assume the thicker gauge is the reason for that.