Post your builds

[Dawn0810]

@Dawn0810 dnt you have those stands you should set your juices yplike that so it easier to see when mixing

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They don't fit I might build a little staircase type of thing so I can see what's in the back but I have them alphabetized so I pretty much know where everything is. And it's better to keep them in there because it's a dark cool place unless I'm mixing then they see a little light lol


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[raymo2u]

It really depends on how long of a pull you take. According to the Samsung 25R spec sheet, you can pulse 45 amps out of it for up to 5 seconds, with a minimum 12 second rest in between pulses. At 4.2 volts, you should (theoretically) be able to go as low as 0.09Ω

I trust the 25R's and the HB6 batteries, Ive gone insanely low on tube mods (Im an idiot, please understand). When I was a young cloud entrepenure and was in to going as low as possible I was pushing .06-.1 builds as a ADV, I would get maybe 5-6 minutes of a good vape and change them very often. I made sure they were cold when going on the charger and before use and once the mod got warm was the time for a break. I have gotten over (Somewhat) that type of vaping and I choose not to use tube mods if the build is under .15 Ohms and I barely use the tubes anymore besides as a RDA stand. I use the Castigador or the regulated mods more of the time because when the batteries drop under 3.9V the chips regulate it so you dont need to worry as much and can vape longer and safer. I wont hide that I have done stupid or things others would say are "Wreckless" because I know I have, its what I'm doing now that matters.

Back to the topic, that's a great looking build, is that a braided clapton and..

 

[Dawn0810]

I have 2 20 slots stands for 15ml juices but I hardly use 15ml bottles I only use them if I'm unsure if I'd like it. Which really never happens more gets given away because I just don't have time to vape it all even tho I try my hardest


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[CrazyChef]

is that a braided clapton

No, it's multi twisted:

3 pieces 40N twisted clockwise
3 more pieces 40N twisted clockwise
3 more pieces 40N twisted clockwise
Took those 3 twists, and twisted them together counter-clockwise.
Made a fused Clapton with 30K and staged with 22N.​

 

[MidwestExpress]

This is ugly but functional. The wire wasn't great looking but at 100w I'm getting some good flavor and some good cloud. Nothing better than a normal fused clapton. Wrapped at 3mm.

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[Me9001]

my 1st ever build using twisted wire method 28g kanthal not bad warms pretty evenly to

 

[iSubOhm]

Started with a piece of 24g bent in half and wrapped 4 times parallel, then used the drill to twist both leading ends and wrapped 3 times on each sde. A bit of a slow ramp up time on my unregulated mod.. My 150w still hasn't come in, was supposed to be here yesterday. Not sure about the flavor, definitely nothing like my favorite; the double helixed coil (24/28) but not a bad coil at all.

 

[robot zombie]

Shout out to @raymo2u for the link to that 38g Kanthal D. It's performing just like A1 for me. The only difference I'm noticing is that it turns much more vibrant shades of blue and green. The camera doesn't even do it justice.

Really liking the vape on this in my Lush. Rockin' the 510 instead of the mini chuff. It's nothing extraordinary, but I like the balance of heat/flavor/vapor on it. It's 38g D over 26g A1. Ohms out to .62.


I thought of something silly and obvious to try when I was wrapping this. So, we have the fused clapton, which is essentially a parallel coil that's been clapton'd, right?

Well I was thinking... ...what if instead of paralleling the core, one was to parallel the outer wraps? Electrically, this is pointless since the resistance will still be exponentially higher... ...but what if you used two different types of wire that were the same gauge? Might have an interesting impact on performance. Micro-staged claptons, anyone?

I can't be the first person to think of this. I'd try it myself, but I don't have anything but kanthal at the moment. I dunno. Maybe I'll try it with 36 and 40 for the hell of it. My concern with using different gauges is that they'll be too hard to guide into the magic pocket... ...I freehand.

 

[TF Vaping]

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[Dawn0810]

24g kanthal core with 36g Ni80. I definitely definitely find it easier to work hell I might try to play with the 40g in a little while I highly doubt anyone wants to hear the drill anymore this morning. Lol


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[raymo2u]

24g kanthal core with 36g Ni80. I definitely definitely find it easier to work hell I might try to play with the 40g in a little while I highly doubt anyone wants to hear the drill anymore this morning. Lol


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I was thinking of using a Dremel for wrapping Claptons and Fused Claptons....takes forever with the drill

 

[CrazyChef]

How would a Dremel be faster?

 

[VapeRN]

Higher RPM. Much.


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[CrazyChef]

Before and After:

 

[raymo2u]

Higher RPM. Much.


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My drill maxes out at 2000Rpm, My old Dremel had Variable Speed from 1500-10K

TF=-RCA came in so I did a quick build to try it out...I also did some modifying to the rba around the screws and mounts (more room for wire now. Its a nice RBA for bigger builds then the Single or Dual Deck but little bit less airflow then the Dual has....
26g/34g Clapton Staged with 22g, I removed a wrap after the pic but it sits at .2 Ohms and is great at 60w for break in so far...

 

[Dawn0810]

I know I'm a little behind but this was my first real attempt at making fused claptons it came out pretty good

That was just a piece I cut off a lead


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[VapeRN]

I know I'm a little behind but this was my first real attempt at making fused claptons it came out pretty good

That was just a piece I cut off a lead


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You're using swivels for the first time? I think the fused Clapton is actually easier to wrap than a standard Clapton. It's like the extra core give more surface for the wrap to bite on to get in that magic groove. Nice looking build.


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[Dawn0810]

You're using swivels for the first time? I think the fused Clapton is actually easier to wrap than a standard Clapton. It's like the extra core give more surface for the wrap to bite on to get in that magic groove. Nice looking build.


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Thank you claptons where easier for me to make but maybe because I just kind of played around with it and that and half the swivels I had locked up so I ended up with twisted wire about half way threw but I got better swivels and this was my first chance to sit down and do it and they weren't bad at all it was more of the crappy swivels I had before


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[CrazyChef]

@Dawn0810 Aren't they great? Fused Claptons are my "go to" coil when I need something that vapes well, but I don't have time for a more intricate build. And you can make them in any size to fit in any atty. I usually make mine with kanthal cores and a nichrome wrap, and stage with nichrome 80. I gotta try 'em in SS at some point in time.

 

[Dawn0810]

@Dawn0810 Aren't they great? Fused Claptons are my "go to" coil when I need something that vapes well, but I don't have time for a more intricate build. And you can make them in any size to fit in any atty. I usually make mine with a kanthal core and a nichrome wrap, and stage with nichrome 80. I gotta try 'em in SS at some point in time.

I just got an atty that is great for bigger wire builds it has like 3mm post holes with a 4 post design I use either kanthal or nichrome core with Ni80 I'm definitely going to try it with SS. I think SS is by far the best wire I've vaped on even just straight SS wire is better than some of the wire builds and it's so versatile being able to be used in either VW or TC


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[CrazyChef]

Where are you getting your SS from? I was just now looking at it on Amazon, eBay and Beadalon.

 

[MidwestExpress]

Where are you getting your SS from? I was just now looking at it on Amazon, eBay and Beadalon.

There is a guy on etsy that I got my 460 ss from. Got it in a week. 100 ft for 8 shipped, 200 ft for 13 shipped.

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[CrazyChef]

Who dat?
Also, what's the difference between 460 and 316L?

 

[MidwestExpress]

Who dat?
Also, what's the difference between 460 and 316L?

Didn't realize I typed 460 ugh... 430 is what I meant!

https://www.etsy.com/listing/108297...rch_query=430 stainless wire&ref=sr_gallery_1

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[raymo2u]

Who dat?
Also, what's the difference between 460 and 316L?

The grade of the steel, the alloy make up and its attributes. 316L is fine 460 is higher grade I believe. Tempature and resistance properties may be slightly different but either is fine for powermode, the coefficient is different for both.
Smok's Coeffiecent Values are:

 

[MidwestExpress]

The grade of the steel, the alloy make up and its attributes. 316L is fine 460 is higher grade I believe. Tempature and resistance properties may be slightly different but either is fine for powermode, the coefficient is different for both.

Someone say coefficient? !

https://vapingg33k.com/tcr-value-of-ni200-t1-and-ss-stainless-steel-wire/


I use 430 just because it is completely nickel free and I couldn't find the 316l less expensive.

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[raymo2u]

Someone say coefficient? !

https://vapingg33k.com/tcr-value-of-ni200-t1-and-ss-stainless-steel-wire/


I use 430 just because it is completely nickel free and I couldn't find the 316l less expensive.

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304 is Food Grade and 316L is Surgical Grade Stainless also...
Stainless Steel Grades

• 200 Series-austenitic chromium-nickel-manganese alloys
• 300 Series-austenitic chromium-nickel alloys
• • Type 301-highly ductile, for formed products. Also hardens rapidly during mechanical working.
  • Type 303-Free machining version of 304 via addition of sulfur
  • Type 304-the most common; the classic 18/8 stainless steel.
  • Type 316-the next most common; for food and surgical stainless steel uses; Alloy addition of molybdenum prevents specific forms of corrosion. Also known as "marine grade" stainless steel due to its increased ability to resist saltwater corrosion compared to type 304. SS316 is often used for building nuclear reprocessing plants.
• 400 Series-ferritic and martensitic chromium alloys
• • Type 408-heat-resistant; poor corrosion resistance; 11% chromium, 8% nickel.
  • Type 409-cheapest type; used for automobile exhausts; ferritic (iron/chromium only).
  • Type 410-martensitic (high-strength iron/chromium).
  • Type 416
  • Type 420-"Cutlery Grade" martensitic; similar to the Brearley's original "rustless steel". Also known as "surgical steel".
  • Type 430-decorative, e.g., for automotive trim; ferritic.
  • Type 440-a higher grade of cutlery steel, with more carbon in it, which allows for much better edge retention when the steel is heat treated properly.
• 500 Series-heat resisting chromium alloys
• 600 Series-martensitic precipitation hardening alloys
• • Type 630-most common PH stainless, better known as 17-4; 17% chromium, 4% nickel

 

[Dawn0810]

There is a guy on etsy that I got my 460 ss from. Got it in a week. 100 ft for 8 shipped, 200 ft for 13 shipped.

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430 SS lol not 460 he also sells 500ft 2 250ft rolls for 13$ w/shipping


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[Dawn0810]

i was just messing around to see if I was even close on the alien wire and once I got the tension down I have so say I came out pretty good I only used left over scraps from a previous build that's why there is only that much I just wanted to see if I could and I was pretty happy with how it came out even if it's only half an inch


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[CrazyChef]

430 SS lol not 460 he also sells 500ft 2 250ft rolls for 13$ w/shipping

Crap - I just bought 200 feet of 28g for $13 shipped.

 

[Dawn0810]

Yeah the guy to get it for unkamen I'm sorry it was 2 200ft rolls

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[Dawn0810]

Dear nickel,
I hate you and how crazy low ohms your builds come out its like how do they expect me to fit 20 wraps in a rda. I'm sticking to SS. Look at this coil calculator I have you need 96 3mm wraps to get a .2 ohm coil out of nickel grrrr so annoying


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[CrazyChef]

I'm sorry it was 2 200ft rolls

Yeah, he must have upped his price, because that item no longer exists at that price. Still, $13.00 shipped for 200 feet isn't a bad price at all.

 

[raymo2u]

I saw the UD rolls and how cheap they are...I really want to dip my toes into the TC hype and try each type of wire. Ive heard good and bad but I want to see for myself and see what kind of crazy build could be useful with it.

 

[robot zombie]

24/40 kanthal A1 - 3mm - .42 ohms. MUCH better than the 24/34 I did the other day. Same wrap count and diameter. The 40g made all of the difference. It ramps up instantly now, but it's actually a little cooler (still very warm, though.) This is a killer vape in the Troll. I didn't know the Troll was capable of putting out so much flavor. This is exactly what I was after.

 

[Oggy]

I love the troll atomizers, before I got a velocity or TM RDA the troll was my goto atty. I have 3 and still keep a 24ga 8 wrap simple build in them to have a fresh atty handy without having to rebuild or rewick my Velocity or TM.

 

[robot zombie]

I love the troll atomizers, before I got a velocity or TM RDA the troll was my goto atty. I have 3 and still keep a 24ga 8 wrap simple build in them to have a fresh atty handy without having to rebuild or rewick my Velocity or TM.

It used to be one of my main atties too. That was my "when in doubt" atty. I remember I used to try and build things that were too hot for it and I couldn't.

I forgot about it for a while because I stripped all of the screws for it. The only way to tighten them down was with pliers.

But recently, I bought a used Freakshow Mini clone that didn't have screws for $5 at the local vape shop. Incidentally, the screws they scrounged-up for it did not fit the Freakshow Mini, but they DID fit my Troll. And it turned out that I had spare grubs that fit the Freakshow!

So now, I'm falling in love with my Troll all over again. I run it with an aftermarket chuff top (not the chuff that Wotofo makes for the Troll - it's just slightly narrower.) It's so awesome for big, hot vapor builds. It's got that super-wide, short chamber. The airflow layout is simple, but pivotal.

My theory on why the airflow is so genius is that the wide barrel and the long, slanted airflow channels create more suction than you get from say, a giant cyclops (doesn't rotate) or a Mutation X-style layout (rotations are shorter lived because it's too broken up.) The size and shape of the slanted airholes creates these long, consistent, swooping channels that pull with a lot of momentum keeping them moving and leave no pressure behind them.

If it's not that, I don't know what it is. There are atties just like the troll in every other way than the actual layout of the airflow and they don't produce quite as much vapor and don't keep it nearly as cool. It's as simple as can be, and yet it is like black magic.

I don't think there's a better atty out there for deep lung hits with thick, high-powered standard coils. I get some of the biggest, tastiest, most satisfying clouds I've ever gotten running .15 dual 22g coils in it. The thing just rips the vapor off of them.

 

[Dawn0810]

@robot zombie I own have several freakshows and mini freakshows so if you need the grub nuts let me know
Which comes to my second point I'm selling these because I already have 2 of each of them so if anyone's interested let me know pics won't upload both are sealed never opened one is a freakshow in blue and the other is a white mini PM me if interested


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[CrazyChef]

Yeah the guy to get it for unkamen I'm sorry it was 2 200ft rolls

Dang, it was on sale before and I missed it. Here's what he said when I asked him about it:

 

[Dawn0810]

Dang, it was on sale before and I missed it. Here's what he said when I asked him about it:
View attachment 34266

That's funny I went back and looked and it kept saying 10$ for each so I was so confused. I got 285ft and 10 in or 85m of 304 SS for 1.76 so it'll be interesting to see if it's any good


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[Dawn0810]

Either way 10$ for 200 ft isn't bad at all.


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[CrazyChef]

Not bad at all - it'll be my first foray into building with SS

 

[Dawn0810]

Not bad at all - it'll be my first foray into building with SS

I have a ? When you make your alien wire that gauge do you use for the Clapton that you need to remove the core from and what gauge wire do you usually use for the 3 wires


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[CrazyChef]

I've been using 30K cores and 38N wrap. But that changes depending on what resistance I'm shooting for and what atty I'll be putting it in. For practice, someone suggested using 24g cores and 32g wrap. I can't remember who it was. For me, it's easier to use higher gauge wire for some reason.

 

[Dawn0810]

I've been using 30K cores and 38N wrap. But that changes depending on what resistance I'm shooting for and what atty I'll be putting it in. For practice, someone suggested using 24g cores and 32g wrap. I can't remember who it was. For me, it's easier to use higher gauge wire for some reason.

I'm loving the 36&40 g wires they're easy to work with for me anyways I just didn't know if I should be using something like 30g for making the alien wire I was just messing around with some scraps I had with 36g Ni80 and I took the core out and stretched it out and I made like a half inch of the alien wire just to see if I could and it came out pretty decent for my first attempt and only doing like an inch the first half inch was trying to find my groove but once I did I did a pretty good job with the last half inch but I ran out of stuff I just had so today I'm going to conquer that for sure.


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[CrazyChef]

That's how I did my first one, too!

 

[Dawn0810]

@CrazyChef How do you do staggered or stapled fuse wires or should I just watch a video because it's too much to type to try to explain


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[CrazyChef]

I haven't been able to do those yet.
I always seem to twist the parallels when trying to do the initial Clapton for the staggered builds, and can't seem to keep the ribbon wire stacked properly to do the stapled builds. It pisses me off that I can't get it for some reason.

 

[iLiptiKal]

I have a ? When you make your alien wire that gauge do you use for the Clapton that you need to remove the core from and what gauge wire do you usually use for the 3 wires

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I prefer 26g cores with 36g alien. A 5 wrap on 3mm should give you around 0.12 ohms in dual configuration.

Since you've said that you like working with 36 I'd say start there.

No matter what 3 core alien you choose, you always do your "reverse de-cored clapton" on a single strand of the same gauge you want to use for the 3 cores.

Watch m.terk and ohmboyoc's videos and then practice makes perfect. You're already well on your way.


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[Dawn0810]

I prefer 26g cores with 36g alien. A 5 wrap on 3mm should give you around 0.12 ohms in dual configuration.

Since you've said that you like working with 36 I'd say start there.

No matter what 3 core alien you choose, you always to your "reverse de-cored clapton" on a single strand of the same gauge you want to use for the 3 cores.

Watch m.terk and ohmboyoc's videos and then practice makes perfect. You're already well on your way.


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Thank you I like ohmboyoc's vids for other things and I like him the way he does and describes things make it easy for me to get.


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