OHHHHH MY GOD I HATE THIS APP SHIT!!!!!!!!! Can't get the android version to work at all for me and don't know anyone with a crapple product....
Maybe the app will run properly on a different tablet or phone? Have you already tried more than one device? Sorry, wish I had some better suggestions for you!OHHHHH MY GOD I HATE THIS APP SHIT!!!!!!!!! Can't get the android version to work at all for me and don't know anyone with a crapple product....
Do you see network anomalies toast at the bottom? I'm getting it it's an error with Smok's servers being down/unable to connectOHHHHH MY GOD I HATE THIS APP SHIT!!!!!!!!! Can't get the android version to work at all for me and don't know anyone with a crapple product....
Network anomalies error will be fixed in a handful of hours no doubt. I had it when I got my xcube and had to wait until like 9-10pm estI've tried a few different devices on the phone's I am getting an anomalies report or it flashes please wait for a second then does nothing and on my tablet it won't even load the app..
Just forget about it and when you try later it'll be a good surpriseI'm at the point where I don't even really care I have a eVic VT I do TI on anyways and for a 50 dollar 160w mod I can't be to mad at only using it for Kanthal/Ni builds...
When you bought ti, did you only purchase it? You have to hit it twice once to pay once to upgrade it to device
I don't think that is what he is saying, I haven't done it, so I could be wrong, but I think what you have to do is tap to pay and then tap again to install it to the mod. At least, that's what it sounds like from the post anyway.I have to pay twice?
I don't think that is what he is saying, I haven't done it, so I could be wrong, but I think what you have to do is tap to pay and then tap again to install it to the mod. At least, that's what it sounds like from the post anyway.
No, no. You purchase with the first click. Then you have to unlock the option on your device with a second tap. The purchase/upgrade button grays out. You only pay once man.I have to pay twice?
What firmware are you running?OK, Ti shows on my App, and shows on my mod, when selected from the app.. I can then change to watt mode , etc, and back to TC ti mode on the Mod, but if I then change to NI on the Mod, it doesn't allow me to select TI coil again until I select it from the App .. :S I will try installing again if it lets me in to the purchase Page.. I'd like to get away from been dependant on the app to switch between different types of TC coil ..
latest 1.092What firmware are you running?
This is strange hopefully @OneBadWolf can help... Shouldn't be that way...latest 1.092
Set your coefficient to 0.00175Hi all. I'm new to temp control and need some advice. I have a .4 ohm ss 316 coil in my tfv4 single rba. In temp mode it cuts out immediately at 420 and from 480 up it just burns the head off me. I have tried adjusting the coefficient to all the different settings I have seen people recommending but no good. It's like a mech mod run with a car battery. Any advice appreciated.
I may be wrong but have you bought the SS?latest 1.092
I may be wrong but have you bought the SS?
And did you purchase ti prior to updating your mod?
That is very strange, I know some people had to buy it again after upgrading but if you can apply it I don't know why it's disappearing from the device. Hopefully onebadwolf can helpI purchased Titanium before I upgraded, as I say the app lets me pick it, and it apply to the Mod, but as soon as I change it to Ni on the Mod, I cant change back to TI, unless I apply the Ti setting from the App.. Wierd :/
In temp mod hit the fire button for like 5 seconds a few times,see if it kicks you out of temp mode. If so it's your build no doubt. Also when you put the atty on did it bring up the new coil dialog? At least once it assumed I had the second atty on there and I didn't even notice, kicked me in the back of the throatYep. I bought the ss upgrade and a spool of 24 gauge 316l. I didn't purchase ti. I only plan to use ss because of dodgy reports on nickel and ti. The coil I have in is a spaced coil. It's working very well in watts mode and wicking is keeping up. Tried the coefficient at 0.00175 and still the same.
Hey curly. I dismantled my whole build and started from scratch. It brought up the same ohms on the same coil but it seems to be working pretty well now. Many thanks to you. I'd still be pretty pissed off if not for your help. Cheers man.In temp mod hit the fire button for like 5 seconds a few times,see if it kicks you out of temp mode. If so it's your build no doubt. Also when you put the atty on did it bring up the new coil dialog? At least once it assumed I had the second atty on there and I didn't even notice, kicked me in the back of the throat
Haha. I need to test with ni200 and ti but the coefficient for SS316l is 0.00175
You are right. .00200 definitely gives me a much nicer vape than .00175. It's great for us learners to have guys like you two to call on. I was on the point of giving up on tc.True, but do not try that setting on the X Cube 2. For SS set it to 00200.(max coefficient value) for SS
That's the setting that worked best on the X Cube II for me. Started to color cotton at 420°F, cotton was unaffected at 400°F.True, but do not try that setting on the X Cube 2. For SS set it to 00200.(max coefficient value) for SS
No problem, temp control likes things a certain way, everything nice and snug. Sometimes your build can move by wicking, heating/cooling of the coil,tightening of screws etc.Hey curly. I dismantled my whole build and started from scratch. It brought up the same ohms on the same coil but it seems to be working pretty well now. Many thanks to you. I'd still be pretty pissed off if not for your help. Cheers man.
I agree with you on the cotton test. .00175 was best at 420. However it seems to actually vape better at .00200. I don't know how good it will be at that coefficient at preventing dry burns.That's the setting that worked best on the X Cube II for me. Started to color cotton at 420°F, cotton was unaffected at 400°F.
True, but do not try that setting on the X Cube 2. For SS set it to 00200.(max coefficient value) for SS
I found 0.00200 to give me a burnt hit when dry at 390°FYou are right. .00200 definitely gives me a much nicer vape than .00175. It's great for us learners to have guys like you two to call on. I was on the point of giving up on tc.
Just curious what do you mean by better? Smoothness, consistency?I agree with you on the cotton test. .00175 was best at 420. However it seems to actually vape better at .00200. I don't know how good it will be at that coefficient at preventing dry burns.
Both. Way way smoother on the throat. A lot more even. No big ramp up to the set temp and then a big fall off. Just a lot more even. Also seems to be a nicer flavour to my taste. A lot less of a hit to the throat. .00200 is like vaping at 40 watts but better flavour. .00175 is like 70 watts but hot and not as good flavour. Again that's just me. I might change my opinion if I get dry burns. This is the best flavour and overall vape since I started using the xblock.Just curious what do you mean by better? Smoothness, consistency?
That's a great idea with the q tip! Sure as hell beats wicking a few timesFWIW, I now test a new SS build by ajdusting the resistance in TC mode before wicking. I set the temp to 420, and touch a qtip to the coils. if they are too hot, I lower the resistance by .005 increments until it does not scortch the cotton. The higher the resistance, the hotter the coils will fire for a given temp. If you manually lock in your resistance too low, it might not fire. Instead of changing the coefficient, tweak the resistance.
Some builds it auto reads perfectly, some need a bit of tuning.
That's a great idea with the q tip! Sure as hell beats wicking a few times
It's at least 34.65A. Firing a 0.15Ohm coil with Max setting hit 177W. Specs say 40A.Does anyone know the devices max amp draw? As its not specified in the instructions, and steam engine states 20A, which I believe is wrong, as my two other high power devices have 35A max draw.
8V at 0.1ohms Is more like 640w. And to be honest highest I've seen the X Cube Fire is 6.5ish. A 0.1ohm coil at 6.5V is way above 160w. I think that example fits well.In series, the batteries voltage adds not the current. I can't see anyway it's drawing 40 amps from each battery. I'm assuming it's wired in series like my high power mods. If not my bad. In your example, I think you want to use 8V for your voltage.
Cheers,
Steve
He wanted to know the max current draw from the device. Regardless the steam engine pic I posted is what's being drawn from the device. It's also PWM (duty mode), in which the batteries could handle 40A because it's not a constant dc-dc 40A. Yes it it wired in series, it basically has to be.We're talking about input voltage not output. The chip will step up/down the voltage as needed. The input voltage will be 8.4v with fully charged batteries (assuming it's wired in series). The current draw will be what's needed to reach your set wattage (within the devices limits).
Cheers,
Steve
Maybe basically was the wrong word. Should have used "more than likely" yes I know about buck/boost. But a MAJORITY of these high wattage mods are in series.Why? Because it's 160w, more than twice our usual 75w single cell mod max?
Or because it's more than the 100 watts of the iStick100, which we know is parallel?
I expect there are other parallel reg mods, though I couldn't name any (assuming they exist).
I know my Brick is series BTW, but why do you think it has to be? Thanks to boost circuitry, we can't just go by output voltage. The i100 goes to 10v (wouldn't "11" have been the right thing to do?).
Yeah... it's parallel. If you're carefull to stay below say 75, like all our higher powered singles, it'll work fine on one battery. Same with my Smowell 65w parallel dual, though obviously that's all you get one cell or two. Funky.
Yeah, my Sigelei 100w Plus for example I don't THINK has a boost chip just a buck. As the battery degrades if it can't handle the wattage you get the good old "check battery" assuming the cut off is 3v-3.2v it's still enough to put out 5.5— 6v or so with loss in the circuit. There's a lot less stress on the battery with PWM though as it is pulsing from the battery and not putting straight dc to the coil. So 40A would be feasible. You're not putting 8v (x cube spec) into a 0.1ohm coil to get 160w, you're only applying roughly 4v. I have done 160w on a 0.15ohm coil which is roughly 32.66v, which is still above any battery continuous rating. This is done with PWM.Yeah... it's parallel. If you're carefull to stay below say 75, like all our higher powered singles, it'll work fine on one battery. Same with my Smowell 65w parallel dual, though obviously that's all you get one cell or two. Funky.
I agree about the likelihood aspect... above my stable of 60-75's, I only have the i100 and xBrick. I have no idea which, if any, of the others are also parallel. It could be just as simple as the efficiency of using series vs. boost, as you say.
No. I didn't rip it apart but it certainly won't work with one cell.The X Cube is parrell??????
Same coil head?I am new to the forum and want to first thank everyone for their knowledge. I just got my Smok Cube II and I'm having an issue after upgrading to the latest firmware 1.092. I am using the TFV4 tank with the 3 coil atty. When vaping in temperature mode it automatically switches to watt mode after 2 seconds when vaping. I can switch it back via the app but upon the next vape it switches back. I previously had firmware 1.080 and it worked fine. Any ideas?