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What did you do today that is vape related?
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Striving to be on ignore status with everyone?
AndriaD
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Not with me. I learned to respect our friend from Belgium a while back. He may be abrasive at times, but he's not usually wrong.
Andria
AndriaD
Yes, I DO wear a mask! I'm vaccinated, too!
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When I went to Illumn.com to order some more battery wraps, I realized that at 10 wraps for $1, the shipping was more than the cost of the product! So... I also bought 2 more 30Q's. 
Andria
Andria
That way I no longer have to deal with their retarded off-topic replies that are about me as opposed to are vaping related. Essentially they are just ignoring a part of their trolling self, which I consider a good thing.
The Samsung 30Q are on backorder, Andria. Did you order the button top by mistake?When I went to Illumn.com to order some more battery wraps, I realized that at 10 wraps for $1, the shipping was more than the cost of the product! So... I also bought 2 more 30Q's.
Andria
AndriaD
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Nope. This is what I ordered:
| 18650 Samsung 3000mAh INR18650-30Q High Discharge Flat Top | Samsung INR18650-30Q 3000 Flat Top | $4.99 | Ordered: 2 | $9.98 |
Nary a word about back orders.
Andria
AndriaD
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I do usually order from liionwholesale; maybe they're backordered there? But when I googled "battwrap," it sent me to illumn, and it's the same price as when I ordered from plain ol battwrap.com, so I got 'em... but I'm not gonna pay $2-$3 to ship something that costs $1, and it's been a while since I got a new pair of batteries anyhow, so I figured, 2 birds, one order.
Andria
It was the Samsung INR18650-35E, 3500mAh Flat Top that are on back order. Hope they're on sale on Labor Day. I need a dozen.I do usually order from liionwholesale; maybe they're backordered there? But when I googled "battwrap," it sent me to illumn, and it's the same price as when I ordered from plain ol battwrap.com, so I got 'em... but I'm not gonna pay $2-$3 to ship something that costs $1, and it's been a while since I got a new pair of batteries anyhow, so I figured, 2 birds, one order.
Andria
Plus I need some VTC6's. I need battery wraps too but I need the decorative ones to pair up my married ones.
I'm still using the LG HE browns from 4 years ago. I'm on Amazon now looking for just stickers to identify the pairs but I don't need 1,000!
Part of the reason why I can be abrasive at times is because I'm a born chameleon. I adapt to the environment so, if it looks like I'm abrasive, it's because that's how the environment looks like. I know that my camouflaging techniques are not entirely failsafe, and that this is why I am putting myself at risk of being tagged as fake. But I don't come here to become popular. And the being not usually wrong part of the equation is just a result from me having a strong willingness to learn about such a huge variety of all kinds of different subjects the vast majority of which are completely unrelated to each other, someone even thought up a name for it: it's called being a scanner, and why I began to read Barbara Sher's book titled "Refuse to Choose!". I've been trying to evaporate choices, but thick clouds are making them hard to see.Not with me. I learned to respect our friend from Belgium a while back. He may be abrasive at times, but he's not usually wrong.
Andria
f1r3b1rd
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So a bigger build in that alpine did in fact turn it into a respectable piece. The build guzzles some juice but the vape is well worth it.
I didn’t particularly care for rdtas but maybe if I had this one earlier I would feel differently.
I didn’t particularly care for rdtas but maybe if I had this one earlier I would feel differently.
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AndriaD
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Yes, I thought you and I might be somewhat kindred souls in that regard; I call it being an "autodidact," very little formal school, but a lifetime of being interested in this, that, and the other thing, and setting out to learn all I can about whatever interests me. The internet has made that SOOOOO easy, but I was that way back in the "let's go to the library!" days.
I don't really mind abrasive, because it often goes along with "honest," which is ALWAYS a desirable trait! And hell, I'm abrasive a lot of the time too, just because I am completely intolerant of idiots.
In fact, I got a new shirt from Amazon last week, that says "CSI: Can't Stand Idiots." I used to find Cromwell there abrasive too, but I figgered out, he's a pretty sharp tack. Andria
I once told him to get cancer. Weeds do not perish so I just figured it wouldn't hurt him anyway. ?I used to find Cromwell there abrasive too, but I figgered out, he's a pretty sharp tack.
So far this morning I have only vaped. Later today I might try building on a FLVR RDA. Think I'll use a twisted wire build.
Seems trying fused Clapton gives a little trouble. Run into dead shorts due to the mass. Don't need help. I'll figure something.
For now, a little more vaping, possibly pass back out.
Seems trying fused Clapton gives a little trouble. Run into dead shorts due to the mass. Don't need help. I'll figure something.
For now, a little more vaping, possibly pass back out.
Fwiw I always liked a simple round wire build in the FLVR, 24g N80 bout 6 wraps seemed to be a sweet spot for me.
~Wesyde1
That taps in at what 0.18 Ω ,or maybe 020 Ω? I know I can do 8 wraps to get 0.35 Ω. The dead shorting I got was from improper trimming of the leads. It would rub the top cap. Could mash the Clapton ends up against the deck to stop that, it was just a PITA to have to do.
Steam Engine's Wire wizard says ~0.21Ω, hm, guess I'm getting a little better. That of course, presumes a 3 mm inner diameter. That's what it appears to me as being from the photo.
If I try that build, it'll be the lowest I go. I do not want to try the teen builds. I rather stay safe at minimum of twenties to fifties for mechanical mods as well as regulated. Figure then 0.35 Ω will be my sweet spot as it's half average between those.
ETA: Sun 09 Aug 2020 09:20:43 AM EDT - Built one as near identical to your photo as I was able. 5 wraps around 3 mm ID. I've got it running ~ 0.24 Ω at 40 W. At 50 W it reads ~ 0.35 Ω.
I'm using all SS316L wire two 26g cores and a 36g wrap.
It runs hot but given the chamber size that's kind of expected. I'm using a titanium drip tip to cool the vapor before I draw it, which helps.
Thank you for letting me see it to build it. I have been shitty of late and apologize for that. You didn't need to share but did. My gratitude for it.
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I dunno, it's just a pic I found by googling, but with 3 cores of 28g Ni80 it will definitely be much lower than 0.20 ohms, not a problem if you use a regulated mod, as the ohms are irrelevant to battery safety on a regulated mod so only the wattage matters for that. To get as high as 0.20 ohms with just a single coil like that, it would need to be 7 wraps at 3.5mm ID, which is still quite a lot bigger than the one that is shown in the pic, and, I agree that one looks to be 3mm ID with just 5 wraps. I don't rely on Steam Engine... it is typically way off IME. Alien coils are not for cloud chasing BTW. There exist various other types of coils that, watt for watt, can produce a lot more vapor in comparison. That said, IMO for the alien wrap wire that goes around the cores, try 38g Ni80 for a smoother vape or 36g Ni80 for a bit more texture as for how the vape feels. The difference in rampup between these two choices is pretty much nonexistent. At 5 wraps 3mm ID, single coil, you'd be looking at something (much) less than 60 watts of power. A single Molicel P26A battery in a regulated mod can handle up to 75 watts so not to worry in that department. To avoid violent, volcano-like horrible spitback, you might find that you need to dry fire the coil repetitively (long pauses in between consecutive sessions, to make sure not to overheat anything in the whole process), more than a few times so, don't say I didn't warn you beforehand.
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Well piss! I need to get some NiCh80 wire. All I have on hand currently is this SS316L and I can see that SS fluctuates a good bit. I use Steam Engine as a basic guide but agree, have found at times it's better to wing it.
Now, I'm trying to think where I can get a bit of NiCh80 Clapton wire affordably. I'd like to try this build w/ it instead of the SS. I know it cools quicker than SS.
I pulsed the hell out of this build anyway. *chuckles* Had a few hot spots right up against the posts. A bit of wiggling w/ ceramic tweezers cleared that up.
I'm on the Topside Lite with it using a good 20700 battery, At 43 W now, reading dead on 0.25 Ω. Figure that would do okay on a Molicell 18650 mechanical too. But I still won't push a mechanical much lower than that, for obvious reasons. "Oh hey, look at my pipe bomb."
And BTW, the heat has dissipated, getting a cooler vape now. Yes, my goodness, even flavor.
Abrasive? I do not tend to call people names.
Somewhat blunt and straightforward? Yep.
I edited my post... the hot weather here was causing my brain cells to go on strike.
Not so much though on the bigger questions. *chuckles*
Think mine have been on furlough, least they think they are, for a bit. I ought not be such a shit at times. There's a lot on my plate, none of which is anyone's fault spefically. More it's rather simply what life has given. This still doesn't excuse me but perhaps it can offer understanding.
You can't dry fire SS316L the same way you can Ni80, though. With SS 316L it is much easier to damage the coil by overheating it when dry firing or dry burning... it needs to be done much more gently at much lower temperatures compared to Ni80, and, when talking about alien coils, IME the longevity of SS316L is like 10-12 times less, also in addition to that. That plus the rampup and cooldown are slower with SS316L.Well piss! I need to get some NiCh80 wire. All I have on hand currently is this SS316L and I can see that SS fluctuates a good bit. I use Steam Engine as a basic guide but agree, have found at times it's better to wing it.
Now, I'm trying to think where I can get a bit of NiCh80 Clapton wire affordably. I'd like to try this build w/ it instead of the SS. I know it cools quicker than SS.
I pulsed the hell out of this build anyway. *chuckles* Had a few hot spots right up against the posts. A bit of wiggling w/ ceramic tweezers cleared that up.
I'm on the Topside Lite with it using a good 20700 battery, At 43 W now, reading dead on 0.25 Ω. Figure that would do okay on a Molicell 18650 mechanical too. But I still won't push a mechanical much lower than that, for obvious reasons. "Oh hey, look at my pipe bomb."
And BTW, the heat has dissipated, getting a cooler vape now. Yes, my goodness, even flavor.
On a mech with a single battery there are things that one can do to avoid running into unacceptable safety problems as far as the ohms are concerned. To stay at or below the true CDR of the battery you select for vaping is one of these things. But this doesn't mean that experienced mech users can't exceed the CDR by some certain margin and still be relatively safe in spite of the fact an inexperienced mech user might be reading this and use that margin for a starting point, which is why I shouldn't recommend that, even though me and many others like me are using that margin in cohort with additional safety measures as opposed to are using it for a starting point. Going above the CDR these additional safety measures not only are paramount, but are paramount such that I can't tell if another person will also be applying them correctly with both knowledge and awareness level so that's why, even though I am doing it myself, to those who ask how much is safe, I won't recommend doing it, but that doesn't mean they aren't free to educate theirself more about advanced subtopics in battery safety for mechs... and THEN make their own well-informed decisions about what they find to be acceptable vs not.
When using 26g for the cores, regardless of anything, I usually find that I need to apply various many different tweaks to avoid getting a searing hot vape, or else I need to reduce the power level by such a significant amount that it will degrade the flavor performance. With fused claptons, for the typical high wattage I prefer to vape, I tend to get the kind of flavor performance that is somewhat reminiscent of a semi-dry hit. That is, excepting only if I reduce the duration of my hits, or else the coil(s) get(s) too dry before the hit finishes, despite nothing's wrong with the wicking job, and the cotton is still well saturated also. With alien coils this problem doesn't occur. During the evaporation process, they keep pulling juice out of the cotton much faster so my hits can last up to 3 whole seconds on a single battery mech, when the battery is running at bit low-ish, using 0.11 ohms dual coil 27/36 Ni80 aliens at 5 wraps 2.5mm ID. (This isn't overly deep inhalation or anything like that, just inhaling a little bit deeper and slower than how I breathe normally.) With the battery fully charged, my hits are only about 2 seconds in duration, while applying a noticeably stronger force but not uncomfortably so. It'll work with pretty much any dual coil 24mm or 25mm RDA worth its salt. But I can't promise you will like how it vapes. (Even, if you positioned the coils such that the airflow slams right into the coils from a fairly close distance, and you dialed the airflow setting in nicely to give it that moderate amount of restrictiveness that brings the flavor to life.)
Well, I kind of thought on knowing that a bit. *grin*
As a result I started at 15 W and worked up to 50. I would pulse for no more than three seconds, let it cool. Pulse and then gradually went up in 5 W increments to 50. My objective in a way was to temper the SS if that is making any sense. Many might say it cannot be done, steel though no matter its composition usually will temper. I recall that from metallurgy taken in high school welding class.
Not doubting your word there's some hoodoo involved. For the time being that is a little more advanced than I care to learn up on. I'm just happy to get to 50 W on a regulated device using a lower than 0.30 ohm coil. Glad to see it can be done without scorching my throat from hot vapor. That isn't saying I'm burning stuff up but rather feeling the heat.
Using 28g Ni80 for the cores is by far the easiest way I've found to avoid scorching my throat on a regulated mod. Another thing I found is, 28/36 Ni80 staggered fused claptons (SFCs) also can eliminate that "problem" that I usually get with regular fused claptons... and, actually, SFCs are easier to make than regular fused claptons if you understand the easy trick that makes them easier to make. Starting from scratch and never having tried to make them before, it takes about half an hour, using two spools of Ni80 wire (28g and 36g), a ziploc bag taped to the inside of a weighted cardboard box, a cheap cordless drill, and some fishing swivels hooked up to a wood plank in a clamp. If you can fry an omelet, you can do this.
Mixed 16 oz of nic base, 30ml of one flavor base, 130ml of juice, one being a tester for him. And it's a boring one. One flavor.
nadalama
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Put more aliens in a couple more RDAs (X1 and Voopoo Pericles). Coils fire right up so no waiting. Makes the impatient part of me very happy, and the flavor is great. A little hot, but not too much so. Thank you so much @~Don~ and @Just Frank !!!!
Got an older Drag mod ready to put into the vapocalypse box and repurposed the batteries into the VSticking VK530. That's where the X1 is living. Pericles is on the new Brizo tube. Hubbs says the Brizo is white brass, too, even though it looks more a golden color in the house. Low, yellowish light in here makes it hard to tell.
Got an older Drag mod ready to put into the vapocalypse box and repurposed the batteries into the VSticking VK530. That's where the X1 is living. Pericles is on the new Brizo tube. Hubbs says the Brizo is white brass, too, even though it looks more a golden color in the house. Low, yellowish light in here makes it hard to tell.
Please be careful with the ones I made
They should really only be used on a regulated or with 30Ts...Will be perfect in the Asgard Mini on a mech with 30Ts...
I need to make more each day... at least 2 pair ( Stock pile ) although I normally make a set when the current ones have worn.
nadalama
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Please be careful with the ones I made
Will be perfect in the Asgard Mini on a mech with 30Ts...
I need to make more each day... at least 2 pair ( Stock pile ) although I normally make a set when the current ones have worn.
The ones I'm using now are in the X1 on the VSticking regulated mod, so we're all good. Ohms at 0.17 for the pair. I will eventually use a pair of the 2.5mm coils in the Asgard Mini, but will probably leave it on the Topside Dual where it's been living ever since I got it. Thanks for looking out for me!
I was a bit worried about ohming too low too. I added an extra wrap to all the 3x26/36 coils I sent. I usually use those as single coils with 5 wraps around a 3mm jig (around .2Ω). I'm still learning really.Please be careful with the ones I made
No problem. I'm glad you're enjoying them..
Only concerned if they were to be used on a mech, talked to Nadalama about it in PMs... not everyone is ok running .10 and or .11
I'll make some mild ones moving forward that are acceptable on 18650 25a batteries
Stripped, sanded out pits and imperfections in metal, and powder coated it Satin Black. Now if I can just remember to bring it home.from work, I will hang it up and put some Mechs and RDAs on it.
Sent from my LGL722DL using Tapatalk
Sent from my LGL722DL using Tapatalk
I took a chance on a used Purge Mod. It was pretty rough looking in my opinion but some people like that.
I could see in my head what I thought it might look like.
So, after about two hours of sanding and polishing (and a little painting) I got it finished.
Before:
Now:
Sent from a Galaxy far far away
I could see in my head what I thought it might look like.
So, after about two hours of sanding and polishing (and a little painting) I got it finished.
Before:
Now:
Sent from a Galaxy far far away
That is one hell of a job!I took a chance on a used Purge Mod. It was pretty rough looking in my opinion but some people like that.
I could see in my head what I thought it might look like.
So, after about two hours of sanding and polishing (and a little painting) I got it finished.
Before:
Now:
Sent from a Galaxy far far away
Sent from my LGL722DL using Tapatalk
f1r3b1rd
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That’s purrrtyI took a chance on a used Purge Mod. It was pretty rough looking in my opinion but some people like that.
I could see in my head what I thought it might look like.
So, after about two hours of sanding and polishing (and a little painting) I got it finished.
Before:
Now:
Sent from a Galaxy far far away
Here's how it looks like when fully untouched:I took a chance on a used Purge Mod. It was pretty rough looking in my opinion but some people like that.
I could see in my head what I thought it might look like.
So, after about two hours of sanding and polishing (and a little painting) I got it finished.
Before:
Now:
Sent from a Galaxy far far away
Made another 500ml of sour blue razz.
Checked tracking on an Asmodus order since it finally shipped. Purchased last Thurs morning.
Broke down and pre-ordered a Pulse V2 squonker.
Checked tracking on an Asmodus order since it finally shipped. Purchased last Thurs morning.
Broke down and pre-ordered a Pulse V2 squonker.
Yeah, same.
I've never used anything that low myself. I knew the bigger coils I sent would be in that range as well if ran dual coil.
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This evening I got around to trying my Asgard Mini on a Smoant Battle Pumper. I haven't used either until now. I like both. The Asgard is bringing out flavor and sweetness that I usually don't notice. I didn't use large coils and I'm using it at 52W. I had some SS fused claptons made up already and threw them in there. 2x28/38,, 6 wraps on a 3mm jig, spaced out at legs cut at 5mm. If anyone has tips about the Asgard I'd be glad to hear them.
The pumper works great. My only concern going in and still now, is cleaning the bottles. I got some extras but still want to re use them if I switch flavors. Maybe it's not as bad as it seems.
Next up is the Goon gsmit sent me, then the Coil turds for vaping RDA.
Spent some time trying to figure out why the new Feedlink mod I got won't take the bottle from the older one I have, without leaking. Never did figure it out. I just put the bottle back into the older one and voila...no more leak. SMH...
Naturally I'd have liked to just transferred the atty and filled bottle to the new one, but seems there is some difference in machining, gasket tolerance, or something. Just can't see up in there well enough to see.
Haven't tried the bottle that came with the new mod ON the new one yet. Just weird though.
Naturally I'd have liked to just transferred the atty and filled bottle to the new one, but seems there is some difference in machining, gasket tolerance, or something. Just can't see up in there well enough to see.
Haven't tried the bottle that came with the new mod ON the new one yet. Just weird though.
I suppose that what you are referring to is the Asgard Mini, not the Asgard. As for the tips I have about it, I find that with the Asgard Mini, using 3mm ID for the coils tends to work better than 2.5mm, and, keeping the coil length about the same as the distance between the post holes generally works best also in addition to that. Aside from this IME, flavor performance hits the sweet spot if creating enough underpressure (by applying a medium-low amount of restrictiveness in cohort with using a fair amount of draw strength) to get the dual coil type airflow to collide in the middle and get deflected downward thus creating a high pressure zone in the space underneath the coils to get a kind of uplifting draft as a result. This uplifting effect is somewhat similar to that in the Drop RDA, but different, and IMO also an awful lot better than the Drop. Also IME, where the Asgard Mini truly shines is that it can be used to tame a powerful-aggressive hot build that would otherwise be too hot to handle... to transform something that would otherwise feel like putting a heat gun into your mouth, complete with blisters happening in there, to what's known as, or should be known as, a warm wet dense saturated flavorful vape. If you mean what I get. ?