The fastest way in is to remove the 510 pin and insulator. Grasp the merlin in a vice by the jfc ring (I used vice grips wrapped in duct tape). Insert a screw driver, drill bit, etc into the 510 hole and tap the base out with a hammer. Mine took a couple of violent taps. I'd use a drill bit or dowel to avoid damaging the hole that the 510 pin screws into.amen ...thanks for posting that !
cloners would have that done that a long time ago
I emailed rts and told them that I have two bum bases and asked for info on how to take it apart since I am not shipping them back.
no answer for a week now. . glad you figured it out . that saves me taking a dremel to one if I ruined it
hypnotizing your pictures now ....so how did you support it and punched where to do it ?
more details are appreciated ...thanks for the good work !!!
I just ordered 2 of the Merlin tanks from Eccigity.com yesterday. Does anyone know which version they are selling? I did not read this post in time to check before I ordered. I hope they are selling the V2 base with these because otherwise I am going to be pretty pissed off if it leaks. If anyone knows, please advise. Thank you!
Sincerely,
Mr. Chainvapor
I kinda think the heat has something to do with it. Not fired, mine don't leak. But that's one hell of an experiment you got to work with ,LOLfill them with pure pg and see what happens.
I have no idea but...not everybody has leak issues with the first batch.
I have 13 merlins from the first batch (only three have been built and in active rotation) and none leak a drop so far.
The one's I haven't built are not loose. I need to spend a few hours with these unbuilt ones, build them, fill them with pure pg and see what happens.
Thank you for the info! I will keep my fingers crossed! A little leaking really would not bother me if it was on the outside. The fact that people are getting seepage around the 510 connection is what has me worried. If this tank leaked into 1 of my mods and killed it, I would probably throw the tank against a wall HARD! I will have to make sure to use a mech mod or old crappy regulated mod with it for awhile until I feel comfortable enough that mine do not leak.
Thank you again for the info. It is appreciated!
Sincerely,
Mr. Chainvapor
They dont leak in the 510 pin
All the leaks Ive heard so far are around the outer rim of the AFC
I kinda think the heat has something to do with it. Not fired, mine don't leak. But that's one hell of an experiment you got to work with ,LOL
Oh hell yeah. I even made sure my old crappy tanks are up and running - tossed them in the zombie cabinet.Better than having to go back to experimenting with Blu cigalikes
Oh hell yeah. I even made sure my old crappy tanks are up and running - tossed them in the zombie cabinet.
alexim !The fastest way in is to remove the 510 pin and insulator. Grasp the merlin in a vice by the jfc ring (I used vice grips wrapped in duct tape). Insert a screw driver, drill bit, etc into the 510 hole and tap the base out with a hammer. Mine took a couple of violent taps. I'd use a drill bit or dowel to avoid damaging the hole that the 510 pin screws into.
The hidden oring is on the bottom of the jfc ring between the jfc and afc.
To reassemble either reverse that or use the socket method described earlier in this thread.
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alexim !
got mine apart with no problem . used a drill bit in a drill press upside down , the blunt edge of the drill bit to go into the hole where the 510 screw and insulator came out.. a few jabs did it .
now trying to figure out wher e leaking could come from .
starting with the bottom piece ...there is an o ring on that part and the afc ring fits over that so that seems to seal just fine.
now the jfc ring has two o rings one for the bottom which might not be sealing to good ????
the other top one seals against the glass .
now to the top deck there is no o ring ...it depends soli on metel to metal press fit ...that could potencely be the culprit to.
will think about it some more . any ideas ???
Mine doesn't leak, but does have a bit of airflow when totally closed. I opened mine mostly out of curiosity. As such, I didn't look too closely for where leaks could occur. Could be that I vape at around 12-15w max in this tank and don't get it warm enough to cause enough expansion of the metal to cause an issue.Maybe placing a rubber washer where its metal to metal ?
Its very likely thats where the seepage comes from as the tank heats up under use
I havent had the time to take one apart yet
daveMaybe placing a rubber washer where its metal to metal ?
Its very likely thats where the seepage comes from as the tank heats up under use
I havent had the time to take one apart yet
alexmMine doesn't leak, but does have a bit of airflow when totally closed. I opened mine mostly out of curiosity. As such, I didn't look too closely for where leaks could occur. Could be that I vape at around 12-15w max in this tank and don't get it warm enough to cause enough expansion of the metal to cause an issue.
I did take pics of all the pieces. Perhaps an oring on this lip on the base would assist with any metal on metal seepage from the deck area to the air chamber?
I'll pop it open again later and measure it. Maybe I have the right ring in my collection and can give it try just to see if it's possible.
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I opened and measured. That's 15.5mm.
I stretched an 11 x 1 oring around it and reassembled. The only thing I managed to accomplish was jamming up the JFC.
I also perfected the disassembly. That's the merlin upside down in a 13/16" spark plug socket with an 11/64" drill bit shoved down the 510 hole. Simple.
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Mine doesn't leak, but does have a bit of airflow when totally closed. I opened mine mostly out of curiosity. As such, I didn't look too closely for where leaks could occur. Could be that I vape at around 12-15w max in this tank and don't get it warm enough to cause enough expansion of the metal to cause an issue.
I did take pics of all the pieces. Perhaps an oring on this lip on the base would assist with any metal on metal seepage from the deck area to the air chamber?
I'll pop it open again later and measure it. Maybe I have the right ring in my collection and can give it try just to see if it's possible.
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Did you try a simple coil, like 28g or 26g with 3.00 - 3.5mm id with the coils being mounted as high up/top of coil level with posts?I am just about ready to throw in the towel with this RTA. I have tried countless builds in various different sizes. Different kinds of wicking methods and materials. All with an end result of lack of flavor. I don't get any burnt or any kind of leaking on this tank just lack of flavor. The tank and tip also seem to get hot if I go above 35 W. I am at a loss right now.
I did. It was ok. This should be able to handle some more advanced coils though. Didnt get this to throw a simple build into it. Im not biting just venting lolDid you try a simple coil, like 28g or 26g with 3.00 - 3.5mm id with the coils being mounted as high up/top of coil level with posts?
I believe it's a peek insulator that keeps the 510 post from shorting against the bottom of the deck. There is another insulator under the positive post on the deck as well.alexm
now we are getting somewhere !
what is that white insert in your picture ? looks like a silicone insert ! don't have that in mine .
seems it is a special washer type /o ring ..
sure wont be able to buy that . probably have to cast one .
If you're serious about throwing in the towel I'll gladly trade a new-in-box stainless Alleria (v1) for your used Merlin.I am just about ready to throw in the towel with this RTA. I have tried countless builds in various different sizes. Different kinds of wicking methods and materials. All with an end result of lack of flavor. I don't get any burnt or any kind of leaking on this tank just lack of flavor. The tank and tip also seem to get hot if I go above 35 W. I am at a loss right now.
daveIm thinking a thin washer or silicone the whole bottom with food grade silicone
Anything thick will either jam up the works or be torn when you turn the juice control or air flow rings
My gawd man what is that two handed mod in the back!
My gawd man what is that two handed mod in the back!
I LIKE IT!
I used a 26/32 Clapton both kanthal & ss316L, 3mm id 6-7 wraps spaced I forgot exactly same thing up high close to post wicked with rayon. Flavor was great. Keep trying, I'm sure you'll get it worked out. Too nice of a rta to give up.I did. It was ok. This should be able to handle some more advanced coils though. Didnt get this to throw a simple build into it. Im not biting just venting lol
trollragonMy gawd man what is that two handed mod in the back!
I LIKE IT!
418650 words per minute! Man that thing can type!!trollragon
me likum to ! its a 4 18650 wpm ..great for testing things out ...not to good for shirt pocket !!!
find myselv vaping it more and more at home
the center one is a 2 18650 one and has a t 10 , building one like it with the smart pwm 2.1 same chip like in the bid bazooka
the other is a sx 350 about two years old.
daveI personally thing you have cured the problem
As long as the washer is thin enough to allow proper operation of the juice control
i like your idea
no I am the one who cant type PWM418650 words per minute! Man that thing can type!!
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no I am the one who cant type PWM
dave
I think I am getting somewhere to no leaks so far but said that to many times before
another problem crept up so ....did not fire ~!! ...it helps to put the pos pin back in ..lol
but there is the problem..now it does not want to catch the thread of the pin ..crank it down on the mod and makes contact to vape it for now .
what juice control ?? all it does is move the treads on glass ..loosen or tighten to open or close the juice opening .
what am I missing ?
so now we know where the leak is coming from we have to work on the o ring seal . ...at least I am hoping.
I had the exact same problems, including the pos pin. Adding the oring raised the deck just enough that it wouldn't catch.but there is the problem..now it does not want to catch the thread of the pin ..crank it down on the mod and makes contact to vape it for now .
what juice control ?? all it does is move the treads on glass ..loosen or tighten to open or close the juice opening .
what am I missing ?
that's what I figuredIn the case of the pin not wanting to catch the threads means the oring you used was to thick
Whats needed is a washer of plastic or something that the juice wont destroy as thin as aluminum foil
That way the pin should be able to thread back in
that's what I figured
took it out washed everything with 99% dryed and smeared aquarium silicon on sides and bottom ...had enough oxygen on there to cure might take a little longer ...so tomorrow is onother day .
Nice! Very Nice!trollragon
me likum to ! its a 4 18650 wpm ..great for testing things out ...not to good for shirt pocket !!!
find myselv vaping it more and more at home
the center one is a 2 18650 one and has a t 10 , building one like it with the smart pwm 2.1 same chip like in the bid bazooka
the other is a sx 350 about two years old.
jes they are a good little chip got two mod with the dna 20 and one with dna 30 . still working great ...I am allways under 20 watts any how.Nice! Very Nice!
I was piffed a pair of Hanna DNA 30 boards with no screens a while back, so I put them into a pair of Hammond cases. Good little tootle mods.
Both?? Oh wow, that just sucks. I have some in a cart at FT, too. I somehow broke the orignal. No idea how it happened.Destroyed both the original glass and the spare glass today Now the long wait from FT begins...
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This saturday I dropped the tank and it broked. Today when I tried to remove the topcap and it broke the glass.Both?? Oh wow, that just sucks. I have some in a cart at FT, too. I somehow broke the orignal. No idea how it happened.
Hopefully your replacements will arrive soon!This saturday I dropped the tank and it broked. Today when I tried to remove the topcap and it broke the glass.
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Have a Merlin on the way home to my wifey. Hopefully it come this week. I will take her spareglass heheHopefully your replacements will arrive soon!