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HCIGAR VT133/VT167 Dual 18650 DNA200/250

Elites

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I have no idea where some people are buying their original Crown tanks. Like I have said on numerous occasions, I own 6 of them and I have never, ever had the problems some people are complaining about on multiple threads. Not only do I own 6 personally but my girl has 4 which brings the total to 10 Crown tanks that I have personal access and experience with. Never once has a coil not come out or have I had to use a pliers to get it out. In fact I find the machining on the tank to be top notch. Never once have I had one leak. Now if you want to complain about the qc on the coils, well that's a different story. Uwell dropped the ball big time there. I will say this, at Vape Northeast my girl unknowingly bought a clone and it was indeed a POS. I would venture to guess that most of the people having issues with the tank itself unknowingly bought clones.

A small 1 cent advice, (for those who are having leake) whenever you fill your crown PLEASE CLOSE THE JUICE CHANNEL ALSO ONCE FILLED AND CLOSE THE TOP CAP THEN PUT YOUR CROWN UPSIDE DOWN AND OPEN YOUR JUICE /FLAVOR CHANNEL (for 10 seconds, now every thing will be fine. :) I hope this might help you as this always help me. Thanks
 

ShowerHead

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Agreed, I stopped caring about graphs and started paying attention to vape...to my taste, the 317L that I use proved the better vape for me. The 430 in my opinion, just did not vape quite as well. This was 28G, s so probably more about guage than SS type for me

I partially agree. I don't believe I ever tried any other SS except the 430 from Unkamen. Worked a treat in all my mods and tanks.

You mention gauge, I believe a spool I have from them is actually 29 gauge as the results of Steam-Engine agree with the coil on my devices only when I use 29 gauge as the wire on S-E.

SO one or the other is incorrect and I'll put my money on steam engine having correct values where Unkamen could have had a 'small' batch of wire.
 

ShowerHead

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Member For 4 Years
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I have no idea where some people are buying their original Crown tanks. Like I have said on numerous occasions, I own 6 of them and I have never, ever had the problems some people are complaining about on multiple threads. Not only do I own 6 personally but my girl has 4 which brings the total to 10 Crown tanks that I have personal access and experience with. Never once has a coil not come out or have I had to use a pliers to get it out. In fact I find the machining on the tank to be top notch. Never once have I had one leak. Now if you want to complain about the qc on the coils, well that's a different story. Uwell dropped the ball big time there. I will say this, at Vape Northeast my girl unknowingly bought a clone and it was indeed a POS. I would venture to guess that most of the people having issues with the tank itself unknowingly bought clones.

I have 4 original Crowns bought a few months apart from two reputable vendors. Bought the RBA sections for all of them.
All 4 increase my juice consumption by happily dumping 2-4 ml just because.
I didn't toss them, but they are DEEP in my emergency box.
 

Wingsfan0310

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Member For 4 Years
I partially agree. I don't believe I ever tried any other SS except the 430 from Unkamen. Worked a treat in all my mods and tanks.

You mention gauge, I believe a spool I have from them is actually 29 gauge as the results of Steam-Engine agree with the coil on my devices only when I use 29 gauge as the wire on S-E.

SO one or the other is incorrect and I'll put my money on steam engine having correct values where Unkamen could have had a 'small' batch of wire.
Unkamens SS430 has been the best, most accurate SS I've tried so far. I don't really care about gauge as long as it performs well. My idea of TC is that the more accurate the better. If I set it to 420F, I'd like it to stay at 420F not be bouncing around between 360F-480F. This is just the way I see it. I don't expect everyone to see things the way I do.

I have 4 original Crowns bought a few months apart from two reputable vendors. Bought the RBA sections for all of them.
All 4 increase my juice consumption by happily dumping 2-4 ml just because.
I didn't toss them, but they are DEEP in my emergency box.
The Aromamizer Supreme has been the tank that has been most responsible for an increase in my juice consumption. The worst part is it isn't leaking. There have been times I swear it must be leaking, but it isn't. Someone must be sneaking vapes off my setup when I'm not looking :D:teehee: :giggle:

Cheers,
Steve
 

Infinite1

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Member For 4 Years
I partially agree. I don't believe I ever tried any other SS except the 430 from Unkamen. Worked a treat in all my mods and tanks.

You mention gauge, I believe a spool I have from them is actually 29 gauge as the results of Steam-Engine agree with the coil on my devices only when I use 29 gauge as the wire on S-E.

SO one or the other is incorrect and I'll put my money on steam engine having correct values where Unkamen could have had a 'small' batch of wire.
I love Unkamen. I get my 317 from them. For me, the higher guage wire is not only a pain to work with, I find that the temp retaining capabilities of 22g produces a much more pleasant vape for me. 28g and up wire cools faster, but it also gets to temp faster. This is desirable I suppose.

I prefer the balance of not terrible ramp up but without the steep drop of temp when power is pulled.

That's why I say the "most accurate" is not necessarily desired by me...less math involved when a wire maintains temp as it really just has to ensure that it does not go over, opposed to the constant ducking-boost with a "more accurate" wire.

I could be completely wrong :) this is just my experience and what I prefer. Which is gentle limiting as not to drastically exceed my set temp. If I set 500, I prefer a gentle slope that may even allow 505 as power is reduced instead if a drastic pull of power soon as 500 is reached...great thing is that our devices allow for this granular of adjustment!!!

Sent from a random device, most likely a LG V10
 

ShowerHead

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Unkamens SS430 has been the best, most accurate SS I've tried so far. I don't really care about gauge as long as it performs well. My idea of TC is that the more accurate the better. If I set it to 420F, I'd like it to stay at 420F not be bouncing around between 360F-480F. This is just the way I see it. I don't expect everyone to see things the way I do.

Me too, wasn't saying the wire was not good, I like it a lot.
Just pointing out the gauge might not be 28 in reply to Infinite1
 

Foggz

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amazing.gif

Thats awesome .. wish I could 'like' that twice ;p
 

SirRichardRear

AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube
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So my thoughts on the device so far

1) Looks, Love the way it looks. It's super small. My last 3 mods were an ipvmini, Sigelie 150, and xcube 2. It's much smaller then my 2 double box mods and not much bigger then the single battery ipv mini. Really lightweight. Love the way it looks with a jwrap too. I did the bend the battery cover trick and it fits nice and snug.

2) Buttons - Love the button set up. simple and sleek. the fire button feels really nice and clicky and responsive.

3) Functionality - It's gonna take me a while to get use to the menu system (or lack of) but thats expected with any new device. TC seems to work really good. I loaded the settings file here and am using the 316l on my 316l dual fused flat clapton coils. 7 wraps each around 3mm at .15 resistance on my tsunami 24. vaping at 75 watts and 470F. prefire at 85w for 1 sec. no delay in firing and hits pretty nice. I had issues with my dual coils SS316l 28g on my aeronaut. even at 600f I couldn't get any decent flavor, but I think it's the atty itself. I can't figure out the aeronaut to give me good flavor and vapor on any builds

4) Software - seems to work really well, easy to set up and use. much better then the smok firmware updates. loading the profiles was easy. I couldn't find a setting in the software for dual 18650s though. Only lipo. So i just didn't change anything there.

Overall I'm really impressed with this device. I need to learn how to use it more but there is a lot of good info in this thread.
 

f1r3b1rd

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So my thoughts on the device so far

1) Looks, Love the way it looks. It's super small. My last 3 mods were an ipvmini, Sigelie 150, and xcube 2. It's much smaller then my 2 double box mods and not much bigger then the single battery ipv mini. Really lightweight. Love the way it looks with a jwrap too. I did the bend the battery cover trick and it fits nice and snug.

2) Buttons - Love the button set up. simple and sleek. the fire button feels really nice and clicky and responsive.

3) Functionality - It's gonna take me a while to get use to the menu system (or lack of) but thats expected with any new device. TC seems to work really good. I loaded the settings file here and am using the 316l on my 316l dual fused flat clapton coils. 7 wraps each around 3mm at .15 resistance on my tsunami 24. vaping at 75 watts and 470F. prefire at 85w for 1 sec. no delay in firing and hits pretty nice. I had issues with my dual coils SS316l 28g on my aeronaut. even at 600f I couldn't get any decent flavor, but I think it's the atty itself. I can't figure out the aeronaut to give me good flavor and vapor on any builds

4) Software - seems to work really well, easy to set up and use. much better then the smok firmware updates. loading the profiles was easy. I couldn't find a setting in the software for dual 18650s though. Only lipo. So i just didn't change anything there.

Overall I'm really impressed with this device. I need to learn how to use it more but there is a lot of good info in this thread.


glad you like it so much
the only thing you really wanna do with the battery profile is make sure its on 2cell and if youre using the brown lg. 30000 mah batteries, change the watt hours to 22.2
 

SirRichardRear

AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube
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glad you like it so much
the only thing you really wanna do with the battery profile is make sure its on 2cell and if youre using the brown lg. 30000 mah batteries, change the watt hours to 22.2

Thanks. I'll check that. I have 4 sets of batteries I use depending on my build
higher resistance builds I have 1 set LG HG2 brown 3000mah and Samsung 30Q pink 3000mah
Lower resistance builds I have 2 sets of LG HB6 Ivory 1500mah for the higher amp draw.
 

f1r3b1rd

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Thanks. I'll check that. I have 4 sets of batteries I use depending on my build
higher resistance builds I have 1 set LG HG2 brown 3000mah and Samsung 30Q pink 3000mah
Lower resistance builds I have 2 sets of LG HB6 Ivory 1500mah for the higher amp draw.
why bother? youre good using the 3000 mah lgs for anything you put on there.
I haven't seen the bench test results for the 30q yet... but the mod is amp limited, so you don't need to worry.


edit: just checked the bench test.... youre good with the 3o q as well... in either case the 22.2 wh will work fine
 

SirRichardRear

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why bother? youre good using the 3000 mah lgs for anything you put on there.
I haven't seen the bench test results for the 30q yet... but the mod is amp limited, so you don't need to worry.


edit: just checked the bench test.... youre good with the 3o q as well... in either case the 22.2 wh will work fine

Some of my builds require about 25 amps which is on the upper limit of the 30q and hg2 so i felt better with some HB6 which have a 30a limit. Maybe i'm being a bit too carefull lol the 30q and hg2 test identical BTW according to moochs tests

Also just loaded my own curve, Took out the TI profile becuase I don't use TI wire, and added in one for me dual SS316l SS fused clapton and this feels really accurate now. Steam-engine is pretty awesome with this chip
 

f1r3b1rd

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Some of my builds require about 25 amps which is on the upper limit of the 30q and hg2 so i felt better with some HB6 which have a 30a limit. Maybe i'm being a bit too carefull lol the 30q and hg2 test identical BTW according to moochs tests

Also just loaded my own curve, Took out the TI profile becuase I don't use TI wire, and added in one for me dual SS316l SS fused clapton and this feels really accurate now. Steam-engine is pretty awesome with this chip
ok.. ummm the mod itself limits the amp draw on the batteries.
I'm all for safety, i am. Anyone who has been a member here for a length of time, has seen me light up people for being unsafe or building in tard ohms.
i feel kind of backwards saying this .. lol I'm normally whipping out charts, graphs and dismembered faces.

but with any evolv board, sx350j or prorape, the mod is going to keep you safe. with its amp and voltage limits and its soft limiting, the mod will throddle you into safety without stressing out the battery.
you just need to have good 20a cells. which fit the brown LG and pink Samsung.

those hb6s are great for mechs, and I'm with you there.
 

SirRichardRear

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ok.. ummm the mod itself limits the amp draw on the batteries.
I'm all for safety, i am. Anyone who has been a member here for a length of time, has seen me light up people for being unsafe or building in tard ohms.
i feel kind of backwards saying this .. lol I'm normally whipping out charts, graphs and dismembered faces.

but with any evolv board, sx350j or prorape, the mod is going to keep you safe. with its amp and voltage limits and its soft limiting, the mod will throddle you into safety without stressing out the battery.
you just need to have good 20a cells. which fit the brown LG and pink Samsung.

those hb6s are great for mechs, and I'm with you there.

Sounds good, Thanks for the info!
I did have to laugh at the one typo though (bolded) I mean I'm not really prorape lol
 

f1r3b1rd

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Love it... "Prorape"

Man I remember when folks used to try to convince me that Provari actually could justify the 200-300 price tag back then. I looked them up after your joke and still see they are in the business of overcharging for limited devices...SMH. Never been a fan... clearly :)
bahahah
i cannot tell a lie... I have a few of their mods. but clearly do not fit the description of typical proraper.
the 2.5 was the mod that got me off cigarettes, the p3 beta was a good deal a friend of mine got and the 50w Procyon, was my way of celebrating being proven right despite what their head engineer said.(long story)
they have their place in the industry, and i cant bash them, they are built well, and do what they say, but they went from being a high end mainstream device, to being one made for niche market.

that said, if i want tough, its the hexohm, if i want power and a perfect vape - its a dna mod
11C65AAD-1879-4AD0-A1D8-2C21C36BA006_zpsc2hw6vyb.jpg
 

Wingsfan0310

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Some of my builds require about 25 amps which is on the upper limit of the 30q and hg2 so i felt better with some HB6 which have a 30a limit. Maybe i'm being a bit too carefull lol the 30q and hg2 test identical BTW according to moochs tests

Also just loaded my own curve, Took out the TI profile becuase I don't use TI wire, and added in one for me dual SS316l SS fused clapton and this feels really accurate now. Steam-engine is pretty awesome with this chip

Since were talking about a regulated mod your coil resistance doesn't have anything to do with amp draw from the batteries. The batteries feed the chip, then the chip steps down the voltage and up the current (DNA200 is a buck only chip (voltage)) to supply the coil.
Example: You dial up 100 watts. You have fully charged batteries (8.4V). The chip see's the 8.4v and draws 11.9 amps (from each battery because they are wired in series). Then the chip steps down the voltage and does the inverse to the current to supply the coil.

*Note
: Those numbers don't take into account the chips inefficiency or voltage sag. It's 97% efficient per Evolv so you can add around 5-10% to the numbers. I was just trying to explain how it works.

The chip always see's the voltage present and draws the amount of current it needs to meet the wattage you dial up:
Wattage / voltage = current.

The DNA200 board has a 25 amp fuse and is limited to 24 amps input. It's output is 50 amps continuous, 55 amps peak instantaneous. Here's a link to the datasheet:
http://www.evolvapor.com/datasheet/dna200.pdf

I hope that makes sense. If not I'll give it another shot.

Cheers,
Steve

Edit If you are using the Ecig file it is alredy set up for LG HG2's with the battery discharge curve and watt hours. It's basically the same for 30Q's.
 
Last edited:

Wingsfan0310

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Steve...Maybe a stupid question. Wouldn't that be 8.4v for 2-18650's? Not that it matters, like you said. I am tired and just trying to follow the subject:)
I'm stupid. I'll fix it. I was giving specs for the DNA200 3s configuration. I basically was posting for someone on another thread earlier where it was 3 batteries in series. Good catch buddy!

Cheers,
Steve

Edit I just walked in and it was a long day. Still no excuse.
Edit2 I fixed it
 

SirRichardRear

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I'm stupid. I'll fix it. I was giving specs for the DNA200 3s configuration. I basically was posting for someone on another thread earlier where it was 3 batteries in series. Good catch buddy!

Cheers,
Steve

Edit I just walked in and it was a long day. Still no excuse.
Edit2 I fixed it

So basically, I'm fine with the H2 and 30Q because the device won't let me put too many amps in it. Even If i try to force it? Like say I build .1 resistance and tell it to do 133 watts, that would be 36 amps at 3.6 volts. What would it do?
 

f1r3b1rd

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So basically, I'm fine with the H2 and 30Q because the device won't let me put too many amps in it. Even If i try to force it? Like say I build .1 resistance and tell it to do 133 watts, that would be 36 amps at 3.6 volts. What would it do?
evolv uses something they call "soft limiting" it wont fire anything beyond what it can within the boards limits.
if you try to it will fire the highest it can in its limits, no matter what it will not go beyond the 24a. If the board tries to for whatever reason, it will blow the fuse.
 

Wingsfan0310

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So basically, I'm fine with the H2 and 30Q because the device won't let me put too many amps in it. Even If i try to force it? Like say I build .1 resistance and tell it to do 133 watts, that would be 36 amps at 3.6 volts. What would it do?
The chip would step down the voltage it's getting from the batteries and step up the current it's drawing from the batteries.

The batteries supply the chip, then the chip steps down the voltage and steps up the current to supply the coils. It's 2 different steps. If it was a Mech it would be the way you are thinking. In a regulated mod the chip basically isolates the coils resistance from the batteries.

Cheers,
Steve
 

SirRichardRear

AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube
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evolv uses something they call "soft limiting" it wont fire anything beyond what it can within the boards limits.
if you try to it will fire the highest it can in its limits, no matter what it will not go beyond the 24a. If the board tries to for whatever reason, it will blow the fuse.
Cool so sounds pretty well protected. So basically I want to max my builds out at 24amps since anything over is useless. Also if a fuse does blow, is it replaceable?
 

SirRichardRear

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The chip would step down the voltage it's getting from the batteries and step up the current it's drawing from the batteries.

The batteries supply the chip, then the chip steps down the voltage and steps up the current to supply the coils. It's 2 different steps. If it was a Mech it would be the way you are thinking. In a regulated mod the chip basically isolates the coils resistance from the batteries.

Cheers,
Steve

Got it, so kinda like a UPS works. Does the chip have a capacitor on it to store energy, I would think so because it fires really fast
 

f1r3b1rd

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Cool so sounds pretty well protected. So basically I want to max my builds out at 24amps since anything over is useless. Also if a fuse does blow, is it replaceable?
well, that depends on your skill with an soldering iron. for me ... YES they are.
with the exception that you have a 1 year warranty on the board, and evolve will replace the fuse should it blow. if you do it yourself, you void the warranty.

and build what you want, Ive fired down to a 0.08 on mine, no problems at all
 

Wingsfan0310

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Cool so sounds pretty well protected. So basically I want to max my builds out at 24amps since anything over is useless. Also if a fuse does blow, is it replaceable?
No dude that's not what he's saying. On a regulated mod the input voltage and current aren't the same as the output voltage and current. The chip steps down the voltage and steps up the current (like a transformer does)
 
Last edited:

SirRichardRear

AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube
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Now dude that's not what he's saying. On a regulated mod the input voltage and current aren't the same as the output voltage and current. The chip steps down the voltage and steps up the current (like a transformer does)
I understand that part. I guess the short answer is don't worry about it. Just build my coils and have fun
 

f1r3b1rd

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Now dude that's not what he's saying. On a regulated mod the input voltage and current aren't the same as the output voltage and current. The chip steps down the voltage and steps up the current (like a transformer does)
Cool so sounds pretty well protected. So basically I want to max my builds out at 24amps since anything over is useless. Also if a fuse does blow, is it replaceable?

basically it uses a buck boost circuit.. think of current as a measurement of Voltage/Resistance

in tc the resistance is changing and therefore the voltage is changing hence the current is as well...
only the current is staying underneath a predetermined ceiling.
 

HvyMtl

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ok.. ummm the mod itself limits the amp draw on the batteries.
I'm all for safety, i am. Anyone who has been a member here for a length of time, has seen me light up people for being unsafe or building in tard ohms.
i feel kind of backwards saying this .. lol I'm normally whipping out charts, graphs and dismembered faces.

but with any evolv board, sx350j or prorape, the mod is going to keep you safe. with its amp and voltage limits and its soft limiting, the mod will throddle you into safety without stressing out the battery.
you just need to have good 20a cells. which fit the brown LG and pink Samsung.

those hb6s are great for mechs, and I'm with you there.

Building in tard ohms. Thanks for making me laugh f1r3b1rd.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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