I have been following this thread for a while and really appreciate the great posts from everyone. I've been lurking and tweaking my orchids using the information available here.
Months ago I ordered the V3 orchid from FT and gave up in frustration. I couldn't get it to wick with the tiny amount of clearance between the tank and chimney. It didn't help that the guy at the local shop advised wicking it with the juice channels stuffed, so I gave it away. Weeks later someone gave me a version 4 that had auto-fired on his mod, baking the insulators, drip tip and tank. I found this thread and ordered new insulators and a kayfun m-style tank. I used it for a few days after learning how to wick it properly, but I'm used to dripping and wanted to chain vape lung hits.
So, I decided to drill out my airflow holes after reading the post by TheWestPole. I absolutely ruined my deck despite using a cobalt bit (1/8" is too large!), so I ordered a new orchid V4 which included the pc tank. That tank is essential in getting this beast to wick or even fill properly. My new orchid came in and I drilled it out to 3/32". Not bad, but I wanted more airflow so I ordered the V6 two piece chimney. The inner and outer diameter of it's upper shaft is a lot larger. I haven't measured it, but it increased the airflow a lot. But it doesn't fit the V4 top cap. The cap has a lip above the o-ring that won't let the V6 chimney pass through. Some folks have been filing the chimney down, but I wanted to keep the option of having some juice flow control. I carefully removed the excess material in the top cap by hand using a conical engraving bit for my dremel. The bit is 1/4" at it's widest and comes to a point. I just held the bit with pliers, put the bit into the cap and rolled the top cap with my palm, removing a uniform amount. The o-ring in the top cap won't fit the V6 chimney, so I modified the old one by putting it on a drum shaped sanding bit from my dremel kit, turning the dremel full blast and holding a knife blade to the o-ring to reduce it's diameter. I found out later that the clear o-ring from the bottom of a protank coil fits perfectly. That's how large the chimney is.
Today, I used a cylinder shaped cutting bit and attacked the juice channels. I made them deeper and twice as wide. Now it wicks enough to keep up with the airflow and hasn't leaked at all. It looks like a goblin deck, almost.
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Sorry for the long post. I just had to finally throw in my two cents.