Become a Patron!
Post your builds
- Thread starter Vape_geek
- Start date
I
Ill sell you the SW200 if you want...Its got a broken battery tab but it still works..
I only got a device or 2 also...
Ill sell you the SW200 if you want...Its got a broken battery tab but it still works..
Meaning Clear Wraps....Can get them from Fasttech or other places for $1 or 2 for a bunch.
Okay I thought that's what u meant.
Hmm and if I didn't wanna unwrap new batteries to put clear wraps on what would u suggest?
Matt
Stickers or use Markers and make a band that goes around the battery.
Alright thanks. I'll have to make something work.
Matt
Matt
Lol thanks but I'm alright, I have bad luck with the regulated stuff anyway. I'm just gonna get another mech box lol. My Cuboid autofired this morning and literally torched my cotton in my griffin.
Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk
itsmenotyou
Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Uhoh.
I had that happen with my ipv3 li. Got juice on the touch pad and it kept on firing. Barely got the atty off before it busted into flames inside lol
sent from a dumb operated smartphone
I do the same as Ray, My matched sets are rewraped in matching colors. I leave single batteries in there original wraps so I know they are not paired.
Luckily I noticed and started pressing the button, I took a hit when I woke up then looked and saw the hit timer keep counting. I guess it's an excuse to throw something in the Griffin though lol
Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk
itsmenotyou
Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Had anyone done basic 24 ti coils in the griffin? If so what were your specs/ results?
sent from a dumb operated smartphone
sent from a dumb operated smartphone
2x36n80 twisted, cut in thirds, then thrice twisted on itself.
Not quite a cable... It creates vestibules for the juice to wick. All in all the core for each staggered multi-core fused Clapton is 6x36n80...
28kA1x36n80 staggered for the frame.
Double space Claptoned in 36n80
Between each multi core staggered Clapton is 3x.5kA1
So each staggered multi core double space Clapton sandwiches 3x.5kA1 and is then claptoned in 4x40n80 loose cable
2.4 wraps
.14 ohms
Intensely flavorful...best I've ever had.
Unreal vapor production.
Very warm, not hot.
No ramp time whatsoever...
-every animal has an adequate amount of gray matter in its cranium to tan and preserve its own hide-
I don't want to sound rude but, might I ask what is the purpose of taking the extra time mapping out what would/should be in ones head?
Not really a good follow-up for @EndDetour 's awesome build. I tossed some aliens in the Griffin, not super impressed probably because resistance ended up super low for some odd reason. The build deck is giant though.
Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk
Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk
What did they clock out to be? What writes and size did you use?Not really a good follow-up for @EndDetour 's awesome build. I tossed some aliens in the Griffin, not super impressed probably because resistance ended up super low for some odd reason. The build deck is giant though.
Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
Oh sorry I forgot specs, 28n/36n 3mm wrap and it clocked at .15 ohm. It seems right but usually my 2.4mm builds come in right about that. I was shooting for more like .2 ohm
Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk
Because it can be confusing and writing it out before doing such an intricate coil will also be good to measure with and have it come out right. The only real thing you should "Map Out" is the 1" lines so you can keep the wraps/designs to the correct specs. I havent seen anyone else try one of these coils and I dont think too many people knew how to pull it off...So I posted it hoping people would try a crazy hybrid and post their build....I was only trying to help and hopefully inspire people to try something new.
A chief engineer always has blueprints even though its mapped out in his head, if he walks away for a minute or gets distracted he wont loose his train of thought or the design he wanted originally. I find sketching things out keeps you on track and gives you something to refer to when you begin something you may not be 100% confident in doing.
Anyone with a Indestructable RDa find it get TOO DAMN HOT while vaping on it? I have the Stock and VLS Cap for it and the mouth piece almost cooks my damn lips with a normal Fused Clapton build on it even at low wattage....What do people normally use in this RDA with good results???
I have 2x24k/40k clicking in at. 14 I think. Vape that at 110w all day long. Best build and rda setup I have. I love the vape coming out of it. I can't remember the diameter. I'm about to rewick the coils so I can check then.
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
CrazyChef
Custom Hand Crafted Coils - PureCoils.com
VU Vendor
VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
Yes! I've only put one build in it - a dual staple coil (can't remember specs). I got the white one because it would match my teal/white RX200. I guess I'll just have to use it for higher resistance builds for the NC.
I put some 2 x 22KA1/38KD Fused Claptons (6 Wrap/3mm ID) in it and even at 90w after 4-5 puffs the mouth piece could fry an egg...If I inhale any harder I get scoulding juice in my mouth so its not a airflow issue...It reminds me of the Twisted Messes RDA with the Metal Chuff Cap on it...I may not use this RDA again if I cant get a build in it without it broiling my lips off.
That's incredible. Kudos. I finally got some swivels today (i can't believe how easy making claptons are when u have these damn things) so I'm starting to learn staggered. Any tips?
2x36n80 twisted, cut in thirds, then thrice twisted on itself.
Not quite a cable... It creates vestibules for the juice to wick. All in all the core for each staggered multi-core fused Clapton is 6x36n80...
28kA1x36n80 staggered for the frame.
Double space Claptoned in 36n80
Between each multi core staggered Clapton is 3x.5kA1
So each staggered multi core double space Clapton sandwiches 3x.5kA1 and is then claptoned in 4x40n80 loose cable
2.4 wraps
.14 ohms
Intensely flavorful...best I've ever had.
Unreal vapor production.
Very warm, not hot.
No ramp time whatsoever...
-every animal has an adequate amount of gray matter in its cranium to tan and preserve its own hide-
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
Not really a good follow-up for @EndDetour 's awesome build. I tossed some aliens in the Griffin, not super impressed probably because resistance ended up super low for some odd reason. The build deck is giant though.
Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk
The great thing about this forum is there's real people with real experience building. I've learned an overwhelming amount of information from the guys and gals on this thread alone. If you're having issues with a coil or setup state the issue and as much info as you can. Resistance, inner diameter, gauges, batteries...all the pedigree info and someone is bound to help you have a more satisfying vape...nice aliens by the way.
-every animal has an adequate amount of gray matter in its cranium to tan and preserve its own hide-
Last edited:
I'll try a couple of those next for my velocity. See what comes of it...
-every animal has an adequate amount of gray matter in its cranium to tan and preserve its own hide-
Yea I love forums for that, the information is fantastic. If you were addressing my build it checks out on steam engine, I think the much shorter legs in the griffin lower the resistance vs how I run them in the twisted messes.
Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk
I know people who use a loop of wire parallel to the actual Clapton and have success. There's tutorials on that technique on YouTube. I've half ass tried it a couple of times and it didn't have the continuity that running parallel claptons does. Take two wires in the gauge you're using for the Clapton, secure them around in the chuck around your core wire, run both of them about an half inch down your core so you can get a more comfortable grip...make sure they're tightly parallel (FYI...make sure both lengths of your Clapton wires are going in opposite directions, there's few things more frustrating then getting them tangled as your working, having to stop, maintain tension on the leads while simultaneously untangling them), and then let that drill fly. I get the best results maintaining tension on the wires by running them between different fingers( one between the ring and pinky, one between the middle and ring) and then practically pinching them against the core. Regardless of the length of your core you can do this portion of the process without swivels, I never do. Whatever you do don't release tension on the claptons or the wire will twirl around the core and you have a mess. Another no no that seems like second nature with any other build...do not overlap the wires when you're done to secure them, I usually maintain pressure on the last couple inches of the wire then clip about an inch from the core. Maybe even clip one down to the core while leaving the other lead long enough to get a solid hold with pliers. And if this happens in the middle of the wire, go back, unwind, straighten them out and then continue. You can always salvage a fair portion. Reason being is the removal process. If one wire is locked under another it is an unholy pain in the ass to save the project.
Now...secure your core onto your swivels...grab one of your Clapton leads, throw your drill in reverse and let it fly. Do not let go. When the lead gets about arm length, pause, don't let go,maintain tension, grab it closer to the core and let it fly again.
This is my technique. See what works for you and post that shit when you're done. The wicking and venting properties of staggered builds are phenomenal.
-every animal has an adequate amount of gray matter in its cranium to tan and preserve its own hide-
Some humble fused claptons, quick and dirty. That's 36 over 28 - all kanthal. They vape just fine, but I would have done something completely different if I hadn't just run out of 38 and 40...
This past week or so, I've been in panic-mode trying to figure out why I suddenly couldn't clapton anymore... ...like at all. I constantly had my wire jumping back or slipping past me. Always right at the same point towards the middle, too. I shot through a lot of wire trying to completely revamp my technique to no avail. I felt so worthless. Imagine completely not being able to do something that you had done for quite some time with ease. I can usually clapton without looking! It was infuriating as shit to suddenly not be able to do that.
In my desperation, I started playing with my drill and I found out I have to put it on max torque. I must've taken it off of that setting at some point. I think something with the way it cuts the torque down on the lower settings makes the wire jump. It's a hammer drill, meaning it's actually moving just slightly forward and back verry quickly and with a lot of force. Once I was holding the wire far enough from the chuck, the lateral motion was enough to make the outer wire jump. I dunno if it disengages the hammer action when you turn it to the drill sign, but it did solve the problem.
All I know is that when I turned off the torque limiter, boom, perfect, easy claptons yet again. So right now, I'm just happy I got a damned clapton build up and running. Holy hell, what a week it has been. Very strange.
This past week or so, I've been in panic-mode trying to figure out why I suddenly couldn't clapton anymore... ...like at all. I constantly had my wire jumping back or slipping past me. Always right at the same point towards the middle, too. I shot through a lot of wire trying to completely revamp my technique to no avail. I felt so worthless. Imagine completely not being able to do something that you had done for quite some time with ease. I can usually clapton without looking! It was infuriating as shit to suddenly not be able to do that.
In my desperation, I started playing with my drill and I found out I have to put it on max torque. I must've taken it off of that setting at some point. I think something with the way it cuts the torque down on the lower settings makes the wire jump. It's a hammer drill, meaning it's actually moving just slightly forward and back verry quickly and with a lot of force. Once I was holding the wire far enough from the chuck, the lateral motion was enough to make the outer wire jump. I dunno if it disengages the hammer action when you turn it to the drill sign, but it did solve the problem.
All I know is that when I turned off the torque limiter, boom, perfect, easy claptons yet again. So right now, I'm just happy I got a damned clapton build up and running. Holy hell, what a week it has been. Very strange.
Th
I bet That coil hits like a beast,awesome build buddy. And i though a caterpillar that I built awhile back was fn hard,that must be nearly Fricken impossible to me. Wicked build!
2x36n80 twisted, cut in thirds, then thrice twisted on itself.
Not quite a cable... It creates vestibules for the juice to wick. All in all the core for each staggered multi-core fused Clapton is 6x36n80...
28kA1x36n80 staggered for the frame.
Double space Claptoned in 36n80
Between each multi core staggered Clapton is 3x.5kA1
So each staggered multi core double space Clapton sandwiches 3x.5kA1 and is then claptoned in 4x40n80 loose cable
2.4 wraps
.14 ohms
Intensely flavorful...best I've ever had.
Unreal vapor production.
Very warm, not hot.
No ramp time whatsoever...
-every animal has an adequate amount of gray matter in its cranium to tan and preserve its own hide-
Here's another build from the islands. It's a simple zipper coil nuthin to fancy,but it does give alot of flavor. I've been really liking to build with Ni80 lately. Tried the exotic wires like Nic and Ti haven't tried SS yet but not really liking them so far. Yeah so it's 26g Ni80 zipper on a wotofo lush being electrified by favorite mech mod and the real deal Manhattan not a clone spent all most 200 hundred for it,it better be real.
Last edited:
Thanks for very detailed response brother... I watched a few tutorials with both methods (this abd the hoop).. it's getting late now but tomorrow I'm most definitely going to throw something together. I just got my swivels today so I wanted to do a few Claptons to get a feel of the rhythm of the swivels. Did a few single core 26k wrapped with 38k, abd they came out perfect.. Then I went to do a fused 26 with a 38 wrap and about a 1/4 of the way the core wires snapped at the Chuck -_-; .. I still can't believe how easy claptons are with the swivel, the 38k wrap looks insanely perfectl, can't wait to get some higher gauge to play around with now...
Thanks again for the detailed response
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
@blakemorder yes .15 seems just right I run that build a lot and every time I build it it works out to be around .14-.15 on the IPV.
I find the Griffin needs a bit higher resistance, and since you can't make an 8wrap alien fit (I tried. It failed. I think I maxed at 6) I have gone to normal FCs. I have 26/38 7 wraps in it with room to spare and it ohms out to .27
The vape is FANTASTIC on the Griffin. Wicking is almost 100% great, sometimes need to close off the air and inhale. But that's maybe my wicking fail.
I'd say try a FC and tell me how it comes out...
While aliens are great for RDAs my experience (limited) is that the Griffin likes FCs better... Just needs higher resistance. Maybe I could do aliens with 34g cores, get that resistance up and see how it works...
Matt
I find the Griffin needs a bit higher resistance, and since you can't make an 8wrap alien fit (I tried. It failed. I think I maxed at 6) I have gone to normal FCs. I have 26/38 7 wraps in it with room to spare and it ohms out to .27
The vape is FANTASTIC on the Griffin. Wicking is almost 100% great, sometimes need to close off the air and inhale. But that's maybe my wicking fail.
I'd say try a FC and tell me how it comes out...
While aliens are great for RDAs my experience (limited) is that the Griffin likes FCs better... Just needs higher resistance. Maybe I could do aliens with 34g cores, get that resistance up and see how it works...
Matt
I had some 26/40 fc's in there, I figured I'd build it out with something a little nicer since I have tons of space. Next time I'll do kanthal aliens or maybe dual core, even a 30g alien would work. .15 is too low for my taste also, the heat kills alot of flavor. If I had some smaller ribbon a mini fraple would be sweet in there.
Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk
Thanks man...initially the 38n80 Clapton was going to be staggered alien but I got frustrated. It hits like a champion
-every animal has an adequate amount of gray matter in its cranium to tan and preserve its own hide-
@EndDetour it looks amazing bro great work.
Just threw these together. I'm on pain pills so a bit out of it, didn't take the time to take any great photos.
I did however take a slight twist on the FC. It's got 2x26G and a 34g wire in the middle for cores, 38 outside wrap.
Ohms out to .29 on the IPV. 7 wraps..
I'll let U know how it Vapes tomorrow when I'm able to decide better (better frame of mins)
Matt
Just threw these together. I'm on pain pills so a bit out of it, didn't take the time to take any great photos.
I did however take a slight twist on the FC. It's got 2x26G and a 34g wire in the middle for cores, 38 outside wrap.
Ohms out to .29 on the IPV. 7 wraps..
I'll let U know how it Vapes tomorrow when I'm able to decide better (better frame of mins)
Matt
Attachments
No good at all man! I haven't had issues like that with mine. I have a clone that I got off of 3f vape right when the rda came out. It has been my favorite rda since then to vape on. Building on it was a pain but I figured some tricks to making it easier.
How much do you want for that thing? I had thought about getting a second for ss tc builds.
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
How bout a trade instead?
Its brand new (Authentic with 1 build) and I have a VLS Cap for it also....What RDA's do you have?
Last edited:
I have a dual fused in my authentic one and it does get warm but not hot, are yours clones?
Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk
I don't have vertu many. Just keep rebuilding the same ones.
What I have that I would be willing to get rid of is:
Authentic copper freakshow with chuff cap
Double vision clone
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
Last edited:
No this is an authentic and I dont believe they even make clone VLS caps...
I guess we can take this to a PM. Ill send one in a minute when I get home
38 and higher feed themselves.... In a lot of respects they're more forgiving yet more meticulous and fragile in a big way. I'm almost out of 40n80... I need more of that and ribbon wire badly.
-every animal has an adequate amount of gray matter in its cranium to tan and preserve its own hide-
@raymo2u I've been thinking about getting a 2nd mod, right now I'm running a Sigelei 100w. I used to run mech tubes before that ( chiyou and nemesis) and half the pieces for them got lost when I moved. So now I feel I definitely need to have at least 2 mods. I really like the noisy cricket, but it's been so long I just don't remember how well mech mods perform. I know you love your noisy cricket so I figured you'd be the guy to ask... I usually like vaping .25- .5ish so I know I'll be good ohm wise. How well does it perform stacked against a regulated device, does it hit hard enough for me not want to put it down and grab my regulated? ohh and I really don't like vaping high watts. I'm good around 40-60 watts on most builds. Also being I only have 1 device atm, do you think it's practical to get a mech, or should I get a back up vv/vw? Let me know what ya think
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
Its not a Parallel Box so you will need to build for Series (8.4V), so if you like a vape in the .2-.25 range then build for .5-.7 Ohms. You want long/fat coils to absorb all the power so you dont burn you cotton also. I love the Noisy Cricket due to its performance, its like vaping a .08 build on a Parallel box with a .4 build but saving batteries and using higher resistance for it. I use the NC over most of the new shiny regulated boxes I have as its a tiny power house and its hard to replicate. Its around $20 online so it doesnt break the bank and I find it a MUST BUY for anyone.
Some 26g/36g Claptons 9 Wraps/3mm ID would be something you would want to try as your first build in it, Im sure that first pull will make you understand why every enjoys that mod.
I was thinking about getting a full copper Abaddon mod for a NC in Parallel, its slightly taller but I love the form factor and size now that Ive actually seen it. Its much smaller then I expected it to be.
Ok I'm sold. I need to get 2 new batteries and a new charger... Any idea where the best place to get all 3 together would be?
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
Ill post a link in a second.
2 Samsung 25R's with Nitcore charger LINK
If you have around $40-$60 to spend on Batteries and Charger there are better deals...
CrazyChef
Custom Hand Crafted Coils - PureCoils.com
VU Vendor
VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
@AnthonyLouis
You also might want to take a look at Liionwholesale.com for your batteries and charger. They are extremely reputable and ALWAYS carry authentic batteries.
Personally, I would never buy batteries from eBay - you never know where the seller is getting them from, and the market is flooded with fakes and rewraps. It's not worth it to me to save $2.87 (or whatever amount) by buying from eBay and having to go to the emergency room because the 20 amp batteries I bought were actually out of date 10 amp rewraps.
You also might want to take a look at Liionwholesale.com for your batteries and charger. They are extremely reputable and ALWAYS carry authentic batteries.
Personally, I would never buy batteries from eBay - you never know where the seller is getting them from, and the market is flooded with fakes and rewraps. It's not worth it to me to save $2.87 (or whatever amount) by buying from eBay and having to go to the emergency room because the 20 amp batteries I bought were actually out of date 10 amp rewraps.
Last edited:
ThAnks man. Gonna get on that later...
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
So I'm going at it making some fused claptons for my Diablo using higher gauge wire since I got my swivels... The wire still seemed to twist up on me a little bit. Anyone got any tips?
2x 26Ka/38Kd
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
2x 26Ka/38Kd
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
I bought all my batteries from eBay, but from 1 seller.... He was like #1 in battery sales back when I bought them all. But yes I do understand where your coming from....safety first
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
CrazyChef
Custom Hand Crafted Coils - PureCoils.com
VU Vendor
VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
Hold on to the end of the wire furthest from the drill very firmly with pliers and start to slowly drill in reverse, and that will get rid of most of the twist.
I normally wouldnt advise Ebay for batteries but that seller is where Ive gotten all my Samsungs and they have all been authentic so far. This is the only reason I posted that link.