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MR.G.

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I used to free hand every thing. But i stsrted useing swivles for everything. Even basic claptons. When i free hand i just leave the spool on the table but with my lack of spool tammers, the spools unrsvle and tangle and i loose wire to it. But when im useing swivles, i wrap with the spool and keep tension on it and it keeps my spools tangle free and no lost wire. thats probably the only reason i use swivles as much as i do. But if i get spool tamers ill probably free hand simple shit if im just bustin out a quick build.
You can also do it this way for tangle free wrapping
 

robot zombie

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I used to free hand every thing. But i stsrted useing swivles for everything. Even basic claptons. When i free hand i just leave the spool on the table but with my lack of spool tammers, the spools unrsvle and tangle and i loose wire to it. But when im useing swivles, i wrap with the spool and keep tension on it and it keeps my spools tangle free and no lost wire. thats probably the only reason i use swivles as much as i do. But if i get spool tamers ill probably free hand simple shit if im just bustin out a quick build.
See, that's one thing that bugs me.

For a while, I used neodymium magnets right on the spool, which helps, but sometimes the tension fucks it up or the wire gets pulled up next to the magnet and the whole spool goes crazy, which of course ruins the wire you're making. I've had them try to attack me before. ;;

After that, I was sticking a pen through the spool with some crumpled paper to lock it in. I'd rest it on a cup with a slightly wider mouth, so the pen is like an axle. This actually works pretty well as long as the rotation axis is pretty even. It went off without a hitch... ...90% of the time. The other 10% always came all at once, manifesting in the occasionally really rotten day of claptoning.

Now, what I do is just tie the wire to something that's not gonna move, walk the spool back 40ft (usually enough to do 3-4 coils worth) and just hold the slightest bit of tension on it. After a few seconds, it starts to give on its own. The key is to not pull it back or you'll break it. You just gotta let it come to you when it's ready. Once it gives, you can let off and it falls slack. All you gotta do from there is secure the wire to the spool (I use sticky labels - they're the shit,) bring the spool back to where you're working, grab that other end and and get to it.

Won't work if you have carpet or don't have the (clean) floor space, though, heh. I swear, it works better than any spool tamer, though. Those all seem to add some degree of tension that comes and goes. And even when that is minimal, spools snag sometimes. I don't like that at all. It's gotta be totally slack at all times. If I couldn't manage that, I would never freehand.

As you can see, I use what I've got before I go out buying stuff. When I did my first claptons, I didn't have any of the things that people typically use except for the drill. But by the end of that day, I found a way. It was just an impulse thing... ...like "I think I'll try to make a clapton today..." That's still kinda how I operate. I try to find a way to use what I already have to accomplish my goals right then. I'm too fucking impulsive to actually be thinking things through. If I wanna do something, I wanna do it right then, not when I get this and that! By then, I won't care anymore.
 
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AnthonyLouis

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7381c15a2142d5f349b9f869f324da24.jpg


@BrattVapes try my method.... you see the wire wrapped a few inches away from the Clapton? I use that at a guide... I just push it up and down the wire to keep them together.... makes it SOOO EASY.

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AnthonyLouis

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Oh I know!! All good!!

Hey guys also would like opinions... Looking around for a cheap mech box...

3fVape has a couple I'd be interested in for a damned good price... Anyone have either one, and can speak to the quality?

And also 3fVape I've never purchased from them, though I see others here have. Is it a good experience, buying from them?

http://www.3fvape.com/mechanical-mo...d-aluminum-copper-2-x-18650.html#.VvCv-3NlDqA


http://www.3fvape.com/mechanical-mo...d-aluminum-copper-2-x-18650.html#.VvCv-3NlDqA


Matt
I'm going to order the Lucifer and Incubus box mods.... one series one parallel

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AnthonyLouis

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Had anyone here tried Vapors Choice Cotton? I gotta make a cotton order.... om grabbing at least 2 bags of Cotton Bacon but I want to try something new. Let me know!

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Boattlebot

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Had anyone here tried Vapors Choice Cotton? I gotta make a cotton order.... om grabbing at least 2 bags of Cotton Bacon but I want to try something new. Let me know!

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Whats the big deal with cotton bacon anyways? I just get 2 sheets of organic cotton for a buck at my local vape shop and it works just fine
 

AnthonyLouis

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Whats the big deal with cotton bacon anyways? I just get 2 sheets of organic cotton for a buck at my local vape shop and it works just fine
I much prefer Cotton Bacon over jap cotton.... try it out. Most shops carry "Bacon Bits" it's 2 pieces of cotton bacon. You can get at least 8 wicks from it.. it's just premium cotton... very clean, no break in time, no weird tastes. Just overall good and cotton.

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itsmenotyou

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I much prefer Cotton Bacon over jap cotton.... try it out. Most shops carry "Bacon Bits" it's 2 pieces of cotton bacon. You can get at least 8 wicks from it.. it's just premium cotton... very clean, no break in time, no weird tastes. Just overall good and cotton.

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I read its just dental cotton before. Is that the case or is it better?

Yes I rob my dentist of his cotton it holds alot of juice and has very little break-in time.

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BrattVapes

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Lol cotton is a weird topic to me. I just grab some pouches from a local shop, like stated above.. Couple bucks for idk 25-50 wicks or so...


Anyways I got the Framed Staple done. Wow. Phwew.

I gotta say halfway through trying this I thought "this better be worth the vape"

It is... The flavor is prime 10/10 I can actually taste different flavors of this OHW juice..

Only took a photo or two. It isn't a pretty coil, is it? But it definitely wicks a hell of a lot of juice.


Installed some new 26/34/26 core /// 38 outer FCs in the Griffin for school tomorrow.



I had to put the fraples in the Velocity because the 3.1mm ID I chose and the springiness of the coil ended up probably closer to 4mm and it wouldn't fit in the petri.

I'll have to cook up some series build for the petri.


60e56df6e95414d10582a7e8ae6ea848.jpg



Again... Huge thanks to everyone here and poppa K went above and beyond with a video that really helped things click with me.


Fraple ohms out to .18 duals with the large ID and 28N80/6 ply .4 cores//38 clapton 6 wraps.

Matt
 

Mythical_OD

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Figured this is a good place to ask this question since people who frequent this thread know their shit and check the thread fairly often.

Im thinkin about getting into building more advanced stuff. Fused Clapton, Framed Staples, Alien Clapton, Zippers, Staged Heating, Juggernauts, Tigers, Cat Tracks, Mirror Coils, whatever else the hell is cool now lol.

So, as far as wire goes, what are the must haves for advanced builds? What gets used the most? Right now on hand Ive just got the standard Kanthal wire in even gauges from 20 up to 30 or 32. Also have some Clapton, Hive, dual and quad twisted, some SS316L in 26 and 28 ga, and Nichrome 26 on hand and some 0.4 and 0.5 x 0.1 Ribbon in the mail. So what else should I get?
 

BrattVapes

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Figured this is a good place to ask this question since people who frequent this thread know their shit and check the thread fairly often.

Im thinkin about getting into building more advanced stuff. Fused Clapton, Framed Staples, Alien Clapton, Zippers, Staged Heating, Juggernauts, Tigers, Cat Tracks, Mirror Coils, whatever else the hell is cool now lol.

So, as far as wire goes, what are the must haves for advanced builds? What gets used the most? Right now on hand Ive just got the standard Kanthal wire in even gauges from 20 up to 30 or 32. Also have some Clapton, Hive, dual and quad twisted, some SS316L in 26 and 28 ga, and Nichrome 26 on hand and some 0.4 and 0.5 x 0.1 Ribbon in the mail. So what else should I get?

Well, you've got the core wires all stocked up! I started out with single claptons and 34 gauge for my outer wraps, and it seemed just fine to start.

I found once I started trying aliens I had to use 34 gauge again to get everything down then move to 38...

Personally I'd say 34 or 36 gauge is a great start and probably 38 soon after...

When figuring out core wires I usually figure what device I'll be using the build on... Mechanical? I can use 24... Regulated I can use 24, 26, and up.

Series you gotta use 26,28 etc.


I'm sure chef and Ray can give you a more solid answer... But if you have all the core wire you're just missing the clapton wire, and I'd suggest 34 gauge or 36 to start.

Matt
 

AnthonyLouis

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Figured this is a good place to ask this question since people who frequent this thread know their shit and check the thread fairly often.

Im thinkin about getting into building more advanced stuff. Fused Clapton, Framed Staples, Alien Clapton, Zippers, Staged Heating, Juggernauts, Tigers, Cat Tracks, Mirror Coils, whatever else the hell is cool now lol.

So, as far as wire goes, what are the must haves for advanced builds? What gets used the most? Right now on hand Ive just got the standard Kanthal wire in even gauges from 20 up to 30 or 32. Also have some Clapton, Hive, dual and quad twisted, some SS316L in 26 and 28 ga, and Nichrome 26 on hand and some 0.4 and 0.5 x 0.1 Ribbon in the mail. So what else should I get?
I'd start with 100' of each from 24g-32g and 1000' spools of 24-38g.

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Iliketurtles

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For the recourd im still having alot of trouble keeping things flat. Any tips? Ive tried wire and masking tape and nothing seams to really work for me. Out of ideas on thisnone

I pass the wire through empty computer cable connectors and pull it tight between the drill and vice so the wire wraps are the only thing forcing it together...not sure that will work with aliens though because if you pull the feed wire tight to wrap it will mess up the twists :/

....flat 3 core -
5LedCtbm.jpg
 

Schmucko

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Member For 4 Years
@Mythical_OD
I would skip staggered fused claptons for now, they are more for looks than preformance. Once you have standard claptons down the next logical step up would be fused claptons. Like bratt said, start simple. my first claptons were 26/32, my first fused claptons were 28/32 and my first aliens were 26/32. If you notice a trend thats because 32ga wire is easy to watch as it wraps and you can easily observe any inconsistencies as you go. 34 and 36 are definitely good gauges to have once you get comfortable with claptoning. After that, its staples, framed staples and framed multi-cored claptons that are great preformers but definitely a pain to build. And most importantly, get ball bearing swivels if you dont already have em, they're a godsend for us builders

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raymo2u

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For anything more then 3 Cores or very wide Framed Staples/ECT I use these Connectors I find at Walmart in the car Audio section, I lay the wires parallel and crimp it flat (Goes into Drill Chuck) and then I make another that is flattened but can easily slide up the wire length.
20160308_100059.jpg 20160308_100047.jpg

For Smaller Framed Staples or 3 Core and under wires I just use some 38 Kanthal D and wrap it around all the wire and pinch it flat, shove it into the chuck then wrap it again about an inch from the chuck so it can slide up the wire length.
20160321_113136.jpg 20160303_112903.jpg

Drill/Swivel Setup isnt crazy but it works very well.
20160321_180524.jpg 20160321_180452.jpg

22g Strand, 22g Fused clapton, 4 Core 22g Fused clapton
20160314_110735.jpg
 

MidwestExpress

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For anything more then 3 Cores or very wide Framed Staples/ECT I use these Connectors I find at Walmart in the car Audio section, I lay the wires parallel and crimp it flat (Goes into Drill Chuck) and then I make another that is flattened but can easily slide up the wire length.
View attachment 44463 View attachment 44466

For Smaller Framed Staples or 3 Core and under wires I just use some 38 Kanthal D and wrap it around all the wire and pinch it flat, shove it into the chuck then wrap it again about an inch from the chuck so it can slide up the wire length.
View attachment 44464 View attachment 44468

Drill/Swivel Setup isnt crazy but it works very well.
View attachment 44470 View attachment 44469

22g Strand, 22g Fused clapton, 4 Core 22g Fused clapton
View attachment 44465

What the hell RDA are you using that 4x22 clapton in and on what mod?! Is that a 3 wrap series build?! HAH
 

MidwestExpress

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raymo2u

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How did the Hohm Wrecker handle that beast coil?!
Pretty well, It would only fire it up to 90w though but it read it at .04 at first then with some heating and pinching it started seeing it as .06 and would let me use 151w but thats still sub 3V...
The HOG made it fire so hot it was barely tolerable and thats why I just ended up removing it altogether...I really like the Framed Staples I have on it now on the HOG, even though its .09 and it fires well on the Dual Parallel Boxes the extra amps and less strain on the batteries lessen the sag and it feels much more powerful when drawing....I just wish the button wasnt so stiff feeling, I may take it apart and see what I can do to make it easier to push.
 

Mythical_OD

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Like @BrattVapes said, you've got the kanthal core wires covered already. I would also get some 36, 38 and 40 gauge nichrome for wrapping/binding wire.

Appreciate it, and also thank you @BrattVapes. So really outside of the normal gauges you just need higher gauge, thinner wire? How about the ribbon? .4 and .5 x .1 good enough to core some staples without being too huge? Or should I also grab a .3 spool or lower?

Isnt there a thing about using nickle based wire outside of TC mode because of toxic fumes? I get certain compositions have different ramp times, but Id rather not use nickle stuff for coils being made for use in power mode.
 

raymo2u

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How should I go about contacting someone about this? I think my top sleeve is off cut because both of my afc sleeves don't line up... I know it's something small but it's driving me nuts

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Email Twisted Messes.com, use their "Contact Us" Info and explain what your issue is.

Appreciate it, and also thank you @BrattVapes. So really outside of the normal gauges you just need higher gauge, thinner wire? How about the ribbon? .4 and .5 x .1 good enough to core some staples without being too huge? Or should I also grab a .3 spool or lower?

Isnt there a thing about using nickle based wire outside of TC mode because of toxic fumes? I get certain compositions have different ramp times, but Id rather not use nickle stuff for coils being made for use in power mode.
Here's Links to everything you need to set up with altogether..
Wire Bundle, Kanthal 22g-36g LINK
Wire Bundle, N80 26g/28g/32g/34g/36g LINK
38g Kanthal D 1000ft for $8 LINK
.8 Ribbon LINK
.6 Ribbon LINK
.5 Ribbon LINK

You can always fill in the rest of the wire with single spools but this is the cheapest route to go.
 

AnthonyLouis

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Has anyone here tried a framed multi strand Clapton with 40 stands of 40g?

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Dawn0810

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@raymo2u
So I think I found a few issues that was making it harder for me
3c287a9a2330df05b0a70e27fbe04b1a.jpg

I was trying to do it with the drill laying down so maybe I'll put the piece of wood in my vice and that will be a huge help because using the drill like that it was so hard to keep it at a constant speed so I'll try it that way and I'm sure it'll make
It will make it easier and I'll be able to see the wire much better. See sometimes you need to see something as easy as someone else's set up to get what works best for you every one I saw so it had the drill laying on its side which didn't work
For me


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CrazyChef

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Has anyone here tried a framed multi strand Clapton with 40 stands of 40g?
Yes, I've done it a couple of times. But I hammered them after I Claptoned them to make multi-strand Caterpillar track coils.
 

CrazyChef

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Is it worth the time?
I think it is. Try it, and if you aren't happy with the end result, them don't do it again. The thing with small gauge multi-strand cores is that they bring out certain nuances in the flavors of your juice. Try it, you'll see what I mean.
 

AnthonyLouis

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I think it is. Try it, and if you aren't happy with the end result, them don't do it again. The thing with small gauge multi-strand cores is that they bring out certain nuances in the flavors of your juice. Try it, you'll see what I mean.
I think I know what u mean becAuse I noticed it the first time with staples...I can only imagine 4 strands.

I actually have 16 strands of 40g twisted already. I might twqist another 16, then lightly twist the 2 16s together and maybe helix it with a small 28/40 Clapton. Then frame that in 26 and fuse it all in r40 what ya think?

Maybe helix the 2 twisted in a fused 30/40 Clapton? What u think would be better?

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raymo2u

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I think I know what u mean becAuse I noticed it the first time with staples...I can only imagine 4 strands.

I actually have 16 strands of 40g twisted already. I might twqist another 16, then lightly twist the 2 16s together and maybe helix it with a small 28/40 Clapton. Then frame that in 26 and fuse it all in r40 what ya think?

Maybe helix the 2 twisted in a fused 30/40 Clapton? What u think would be better?

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I would frame it with 24N80 but keep the 40 outerwrap
 

raymo2u

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I was just thinking that... what you think about the helix? 28/40 or fused 30/40?

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for the Helix? a Helix is a Wire that Follows the grooves in twisted wire...
 

AnthonyLouis

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Yes ... I'm lightly twisting 2 strands of 16 40g. I was gonna throw a small Clapton in the grooves

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raymo2u

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I would go with 2 x 38g/42g so it would fill in the gap and not protrude but anything high 30's/40g+ will do it.
 

Schmucko

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Yes ... I'm lightly twisting 2 strands of 16 40g. I was gonna throw a small Clapton in the grooves

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I would do a test run with just the framed multi core to see what the resistance comes out to. Adding the helix may drop it lower than what youre looking for.

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AnthonyLouis

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I would do a test run with just the framed multi core to see what the resistance comes out to. Adding the helix may drop it lower than what youre looking for.

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I was originally going to use 40 strands of 40g .. so rather then the 40 in using 16 and 16 twisted + the helix. It should still be around the original 40 I intended

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CrazyChef

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@AnthonyLouis
Here's a pic of the guts of a 30x38K/30K multi-strand core. After this pic, I finished hammering it to form a couple of Caterpillar track coils.

Multi-Core.jpg
 
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Schmucko

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I was originally going to use 40 strands of 40g .. so rather then the 40 in using 16 and 16 twisted + the helix. It should still be around the original 40 I intended

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Good point, carry on...

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CrazyChef

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0.33Ω per coil (3.0mm ID, 4/5 wraps)
 

AnthonyLouis

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0.33Ω per coil (3.0mm ID, 4/5 wraps)
Hrm... maybe I won't frame these and just Clapton it.... I reallllllly want to though lol. This is why I need a new mech MOD. I'm tired of making a coil that goes under .1ohm and not being able to fire her up

Scratch that. I'm def. Framing them. I think they'll stay above .1
 

raymo2u

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Hrm... maybe I won't frame these and just Clapton it.... I reallllllly want to though lol. This is why I need a new mech MOD. I'm tired of making a coil that goes under .1ohm and not being able to fire her up

Scratch that. I'm def. Framing them. I think they'll stay above .1
I say .09 with 6 wraps/3mm ID
 

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