Replicated the helixed parellel claptons with 24g core. And added a wrap. .11 ohms dual. Much happy. So fog. 
Have i ever mentioned how i love this mason 24?
Have i ever mentioned how i love this mason 24?
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Be careful, I had a big coil build in my goon and it was making it get WAY TO HOT. My whole MOD was heating up -_-. I had to switch it out for something smaller. And I previously stated that the quality wasn't all that great. Hopefully someone else takes this design and improves somewhere else ....
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Im not worried about it getting hot...most of my builds heat up the RDA hot enough to cook an egg on contact...Ive trained myself not to "Lip" the mod and just the Delrin tip. I dont find this particular build all that large or warm though, I may drop a wrap or 2 to warm it up some.
Maybe it's just my RX200 but for some reason the goon gets so hot that the damn firing button heats up
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I need something new to build -_-
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I was thinking of a framed cable of some sort. Rather then 40 somewhat strands of 40g maybe just like 10 34g or something framed and fused. Thoughts on this or anything better?
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Thats Chefs territory of experience...Ive only done 5, 10, and 15 strands of wire....Haven't venture much more then that...I will be doing some more Cat Tracks shortly, Im not going to do the 2 Core but atleast 5 and the Hand Vise should be here in 3 days so that should be a big help keeping them flat...If I was any smarter I would of ordered 2, one for each side of the wire..
CrazyChef
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You probably want to start with a desired resistant and then work back from there.
New to the site but these coils are great I'm using a totally different cool
Right now which is better but these are 24G kanthal and Ribbion wire wrapped around had nice flavor and clouds but got meh after awhile
So now I'm rocking a twisted 24G kanthal with 2 strands of twisted Ribbion combined into it I'll show pics soon reads out to .15
Right now which is better but these are 24G kanthal and Ribbion wire wrapped around had nice flavor and clouds but got meh after awhile
So now I'm rocking a twisted 24G kanthal with 2 strands of twisted Ribbion combined into it I'll show pics soon reads out to .15
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Welcome!
Matt
Matt
I took out the Series Build in the Goon and wanted to try doing something odd today for it. I wanted to do that "Green Mamba" Build but a variant of it. After spinning my wire I realized I didnt spin it enough and since I didnt really have time I just used it the way it was. I laid a piece of Ribbon on both sides of the Core wires before fusing the Wire. After I had it all together I noticed a weird design similar to a Shrub Trimmers Blade, I decided to quickly Flatten the Wire length and I thought it was pretty cool. I wrapped it up and tried it out and I can say Im pretty damn impressed with it..It ramps extremely quickly and the flavor is pretty intense, the vapor output is also dense and on a Unregulated Mech/Parallel Box its similar to a Series Build around .4.
I put it on the Full Brass Diablo Mod...an All Brass Setup that hits like a Thug in the Trap on *************** and Crack!
The Shrub Trimmers Blade
2 x 24N80 Cores, 2 x .3 Ribbon , 2 x 34KA1 Twisted Outer Wrap (6 Wraps/3mm ID @ .1 Ohms)
I put it on the Full Brass Diablo Mod...an All Brass Setup that hits like a Thug in the Trap on *************** and Crack!
The Shrub Trimmers Blade
2 x 24N80 Cores, 2 x .3 Ribbon , 2 x 34KA1 Twisted Outer Wrap (6 Wraps/3mm ID @ .1 Ohms)
The rx200 gets really hot on the button and the rda with most heavy builds, I have one and it happens anytime I make a real low ohm nice build and it tells me my device is too hot when it shouldn't even get that hot so I upgraded to the Dna200 lol haven't had an issue
Not very good picture iPhone 5s has a shitty camera for this type of stuff but this is the build I use now 24G twisted & then twisted again with 2strands of Ribbion wire it's a .15 build very cloudy decent juice wells not the best though and decent clouds for an easy style build
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I dont own a RX200 but my Snow Wolf Mini would ALWAYS say TEMP Protection....meaning it was getting too hot for the mod and the RDA would be hot but the mod around the RDA would be warm, not hot...Most of my other devices dont give the message unless Im really cooking.
Ah okay man, well I haven't gotten into hardcore builds yet all I have is 24G kanthal and Ribbion wire lol so I make the twisted builds
I've only gotten the "temp too hot" message on my IPV 3 Li once.
It was due to a fresh build having a hotspot at the post.. And it was throwing all the power at the positive post instead..
Even .1 ohm builds on my IPV have never given me a message at 150 watts.
Notice my mod will get lukewarm - not hot by any means.
Then again, I'm not using the goon, have no idea what kind of insulating and heatsink properties it has, and maybe it's due to the size of the RDA...?
Either way that's unfortunate you guys. I really like the RX200 I'd pick one up in a trade or something but no funds
Matt
It was due to a fresh build having a hotspot at the post.. And it was throwing all the power at the positive post instead..
Even .1 ohm builds on my IPV have never given me a message at 150 watts.
Notice my mod will get lukewarm - not hot by any means.
Then again, I'm not using the goon, have no idea what kind of insulating and heatsink properties it has, and maybe it's due to the size of the RDA...?
Either way that's unfortunate you guys. I really like the RX200 I'd pick one up in a trade or something but no funds
Matt
If you can try lining up 2 strands of the 24g and the wrapping the Ribbon around it. Its much like a normal fused clapton but I feel it ramps up much faster.
Similar to this:
I dont think it gets hot but I have the Brass Version...but I dont think that makes a difference in heat properties.I've only gotten the "temp too hot" message on my IPV 3 Li once.
It was due to a fresh build having a hotspot at the post.. And it was throwing all the power at the positive post instead..
Even .1 ohm builds on my IPV have never given me a message at 150 watts.
Notice my mod will get lukewarm - not hot by any means.
Then again, I'm not using the goon, have no idea what kind of insulating and heatsink properties it has, and maybe it's due to the size of the RDA...?
Either way that's unfortunate you guys. I really like the RX200 I'd pick one up in a trade or something but no funds
Matt
It might be the way the RDA directs the heat? Instead of out and up, the head follows least resistance down to the 510 thus being up the mod?
I don't know. I'm glad I don't have the RDA after the couple of you got them in... Doesn't seem like I'd be a happy camper if I paid $$$ for it.
Matt
BTW That post that kept turning wasnt the Positive Post, it was the Negative. After dicking around with it and removing the Oring around the Screw it seats into the section that is cut out for it now and since Ive taken it out it has been solid. Thought I'd update you and everyone on that issue. I am pretty pissed they dont include a extra oring for that screw or a extra of the screw itself.
So I went out specifically looking for clamps with a hole at the top so now I'm just wondering how you attached it to the hole and where you got that special drill bit. I saw someone here put the link up but I'm just wondering if it'll be too big for the drill I just got its only a 12volt because I'llHi Dawn
Only use that one for making wire and I'm pretty sure it opens as far as an 18volt drill but not 100% positive so if anyone could me out id appreciate it. Things have been so crazy I've only been able to build out of necessity and not for fun.
The link I posted will fit most Drill chucks. My Drill is a cheapo Black and Decker 18V with a 1/2" Chuck so I know it will fit, if it doesnt I will cut it up the handle where it thins out...
That's great! At least you won't be entirely frustrated with the build process on that guy now....
Matt
My RX200 heats up with everything, pretty sure it is the board that heats up not heat from the atty transferring down. Button heats up with any build on the device I would guess that whatever they use to transform the power is what makes the board heat up, none of the rest of the mod gets hot just the front panel. Chip devices get hot and I guess something is heatsunk to the front of the mod.
....on the other hand, just looked at a stripdown and the only thing there is the ground connection so it pretty much must be heat from the atty.
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I have and love my rx200, I build .2-.1 yea it gets warm. Only hot code I ever got was on a .10 duel while pulsing to shape coils (for too long).
What are u building that gives you this issue?
Or are you rapid hitting?
Where do I go to upgrade the RX 200
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Thank you I will check into that
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That would be great I put all of my old stuff in a big box up in the rafters of my shop I can't get to it right now looking forward to it thank you
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Downloads are on this page http://www.wismec.com/product/reuleaux-rx200/ should save you digging for the box
You'll get it. A couple weeks ago I couldn't get a consistent 40g staggered to save my life. It's a process
-every animal has an adequate amount of gray matter in its cranium to tan and preserve its own hide-
What g do u think is best to start with? It's driving me nuts that I couldn't do it that I had to stop trying lol. I'm gonna try again today right after I make these baby staples for my Griffin (series build)
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All nichrome Staggered framed staple Clapton...
26n80 frames staggered in 40n80
6x.5n80 core(ramp time cut down significantly with n80 ribbon)
Claptoned in 40n80
Mounted in the aeronaut on the Lucifer in series... The flavor is everything the last few staple framed staggered builds I put together weren't...the flavor is POW!!! And the clouds I'm peeling off of this fucker with 1 sec hits are comp worthy. Three second clouds are insane....
.27 ohms
-every animal has an adequate amount of gray matter in its cranium to tan and preserve its own hide-
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34-38g in my opinion. Anything thicker may be more difficult on the final wrap until you get it down. I really got it down with 36n80...
-every animal has an adequate amount of gray matter in its cranium to tan and preserve its own hide-
What do you guys think of braided wire. I saw some that was six wire, 3 parallels braided, not twisted and flattened. Looks like it would have a lot of surface area.
Very Sexy!!
Let me check. It's a 3/8 chuck is it worth buying the bigger one even tho the only thing I'll be using it for is making wire
CrazyChef
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Made me chuckle some lol I wish I had the Aliens down enough to get 2 coils worth without wasting a shit ton of wire, I would love to make some Alien Fraples and Flatten them....You make it look easy.Thank You! But what do you think about the pic I uploaded?
I really only use the Drill for making wire...someday soon Ill get the Dewalt I want but at $200+ just to speed up the outer wrapping its kind of crazy....I may just buy a Corded Drill for High RPM and lay it flat. Im pretty sure it will still work on the 3/8th chuck as it gives you 5.91mm of usable space in it..The measurements of the Jaw of the Vise is .5" Lenght x .082" Wide, the handle is smaller so it would fit.
Hi Dawn, i took some heavy gauge wire and passed it through the hole and then threaded the swivel onto it then just twisted the wire, you want to twist the wire so the twist is on the side where the actual hole is then it wont get in the way of the spinning swivel, after i twisted it up i wrapped some electrical tape to keep it against the shaft part of the table vise, i think i may have used 20g kanthal but i dont see why 22 or 24g couldnt be used, if your a little worried about it wearing and breaking then double up the wire.
That hand vise or wire vise that you were given the link to should fit most drills but you could always ask chef to measure it as i know he has one the same as that
