I ran the update and I never had an issue with the 316L SS but once I ran the update 316L would make the temp protect come on in a second. Just thought I'd let you know in case you're running SS and it's doing just fine how it is.Good lookin out on the RX200 update heads up. I woulda never known about it otherwise. Did it a few minutes ago and sure enough, 250. Pretty sweet, but I never even go up to 200 honestly. Might change once I make a set of staples.
Ah nice! That makes since now that I think about it. Sad I went to electronics school, 15 years ago, and when I didn't end up using it for so long, simple shit slides right past me sometimes. Very frustrating. Then someone explains it, I have have a duh moment!Its not more power...its just more overhead protection for lower builds and more battery life...same with the V1....They arent actually all that large compared to other boxes but they are very nice to have....I think everyone should own atleast a Tres Equis clone or a Hog clone...
I'm flying to Florida, anyone have some info on flying with your vape gear? I ideally would like to bring all my shit "just in case" but trying to figure out if I should crank out some coils before the flight.
Video pleaseUpdated the RX200, it goes up to 250 (on the screen at least)
edit - just fired a .15 alien clapton @250, fuckin violent
Lol that's why I wanted a videoNo smart phone, would a photo suffice? But all you'll see is a cloud with skyrocket like projections all around it. It's not vapeable, more like a firecracker going off.
That's one way of doing it. But I have to add this: I've never used this method, and anyone who has received any of my staple coils can be assured that they have never seen even one single microgram of my spit. I come from a very intense BOH food service background, and all of the coils that I make are treated with the same protocols that I would use when working with food. Sanitation is extremely important to me. No offense to your method Ray, but I just needed to clarify that point.Spit on your fingers, run them up the ribbon and then they will stay together.
That's one way of doing it. But I have to add this: I've never used this method, and anyone who has received any of my staple coils can be assured that they have never seen even one single microgram of my spit. I come from a very intense BOH food service background, and all of the coils that I make are treated with the same protocols that I would use when working with food. Sanitation is extremely important to me. No offense Ray, but I just needed to clarify that point.
As an alternative to spit, I like to use a 50/50 mix of VG and PG that acts as a "glue" to hold the stacks together.
Dude, that made me laugh.You dont want to know my method of getting Ribbon to stick....
Ohh neat!Just letting you guys know that slow tech I mean fast tech was the dotmod v2's with the thumb screws.
Sent from the lab in my basement of vapement
Did the same, but after seeing all these pretty black NCs with brass heat sinks and a nice authentic black Petri v2 on top... ohh I want I want.Ahhh, I already bought one from 3F. Oh well, Ill have a real one soon enough
Mine used to do that, the top contact plate has room to move. If you take the top off and pad it underneath the top plate with a fibre washer it cures it, otherwise it will move when you tighten the batteries in and lose contact on one again on one of the back two. It still works with 2 batteries obviously so you never know til recharge time.Loving my Tres Equis though scared the crap out of myself last night when I took the batteries out and 3.5v 4.2v 4.2v (EEK!) Luckily I wasn't running too low (.14Ω) with Samsungs, still bad. So I gave it a good cleaning, more than just the polishing cloth (did that Ketchup thing you wrote about to check it out, works surprisingly well, the things sparkled). Anyways, it's all working well now. Time to build a nice .1Ω Boreas build and enjoy it.
I was considering that, figured the issue was that plate was getting crooked and losing contact with certain batteries, so far I've been tightening batteries in, put on the tank, then tighten batteries again and it was working. But thanks for that, I'll give it a shot when I get home.Mine used to do that, the top contact plate has room to move. If you take the top off and pad it underneath the top plate with a fibre washer it cures it, otherwise it will move when you tighten the batteries in and lose contact on one again on one of the back two. It still works with 2 batteries obviously so you never know til recharge time.
They're being very hush-hush about it, but I don't care what it is - I already want one!BTW @CrazyChef what's that dotmod box thing? They coming out with their own mech?
NC made with better materials, a built in 510 cap, and coming in black and brass to match the Petri. One can dream right?They're being very hush-hush about it, but I don't care what it is - I already want one!
I've become a dothead...
You're welcome. I had it in pieces metering everything out when mine was doing it. I think they should redesign the NC that way, there is no reason for any part of the body except the top plate and the rocker at the bottom to be metal. Would be cool to have a stabilised wood one. Mmmmmmmm .......stabilised wood cricket.I was considering that, figured the issue was that plate was getting crooked and losing contact with certain batteries, so far I've been tightening batteries in, put on the tank, then tighten batteries again and it was working. But thanks for that, I'll give it a shot when I get home.
Stop saying things I've been thinking about! geez! you're freaking me out. The only issue with the wood one would be the connection inserts. Can't just screw right into the wood, would have to secure in a nice metal threading or something, but yeah, wish I had my Grandpa's shop. I need to get off my ass and start making the mods I want to but waiting on a few things to arrive before I even bother starting (I plan on starting with building one inside a Gameboy, but still have plenty to figure out and then actually do it).You're welcome. I had it in pieces metering everything out when mine was doing it. I think they should redesign the NC that way, there is no reason for any part of the body except the top plate and the rocker at the bottom to be metal. Would be cool to have a stabilised wood one. Mmmmmmmm .......stabilised wood cricket.
Love a good wood grain, I'd be all over that. Pretty surprised the NC design hasn't been ripped off by any custom mod makers, such a simple design and while you can't beat the NC's price range you could up the aesthetics and qualityHa ha, just imagine it though stabilised wood cricket. I would buy one.
How does the NiFe vape? I was a little concerned seeing Iron in the composition...Temp control FC's. NiFe52 28/32 A little wonky on the wrap but they work well at 420 degrees and 58 watts.
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I have the ones from 3f but they don't have the thumb screws which is one of the coolest features of the rda but the 3f ones look awesome.Ahhh, I already bought one from 3F. Oh well, Ill have a real one soon enough
Hopefully they are perfect fits...2 Different Double Visions and TM Clones I have arent exact and wont take each others caps/bases...Im buying that Clone with the Thumb Screws for sure!! Thanks for the Heads up @Dawn0810Well thats kinda the reason I got it. I just wanted it for the sleeve and cap. Im getting an authentic in black and with a gold cloudcap or whatever, so figured pick up the clone in gold and just swap the deck out if I wanna have it in gold.
Made that mistake a couple times. I know Chef did a review on his clone vs the authentic, don't remember if he commented on fitting each other, and then there's always getting a different clone.Hopefully they are perfect fits...2 Different Double Visions and TM Clones I have arent exact and wont take each others caps/bases...Im buying that Clone with the Thumb Screws for sure!! Thanks for the Heads up @Dawn0810
What don't you like about it if I might ask? I heard that the clone was very airy (and not adjustable ofcourse) any other complaints? Mine's on the way, I'll make it work even if just to look pretty.The thumb screws one is aluminium, not sure if thats good or bad. I'm not loving the Petri clone from 3f so probably not getting another anyways. Might try the authentic in a B&M and if its significantly better get that.
Yeah that's my concern. And then the idea of picking up another top cap is an issue because of the inconsistencies of clones... ohh well again I'll make it work.I have the V1 & V2 clones from 3f, quality is decent and better than I had anticipated. All pieces are compatible with my authentic V2. The V2 clone has 4 air holes in the barrel, good for vapor production but not so much for flavor.
Not at all I have all the dot mods versions I really love them but one of the cool things about the v2's are the thumb screws which the ones from 3f doesn't have but fast tech just came out with them with the thumb screws today.What don't you like about it if I might ask? I heard that the clone was very airy (and not adjustable ofcourse) any other complaints? Mine's on the way, I'll make it work even if just to look pretty.
For sure, but I'm a function over form guy, so I'll let that minor issue fall to the side for now.Not at all I have all the dot mods versions I really love them but one of the cool things about the v2's are the thumb screws which the ones from 3f doesn't have but fast tech just came out with them with the thumb screws today.