Left Kanthal ribbon .30 Ohms.... Right Kanthal .50 Ohms
These are to run on a Pwm mod... They are 5mm circumference
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These Kanthal coils need power, but if you have a Pwm or something to hit them above 7 to 8 volts they ramp up quickly.... The taste is out of this world..... The guy that makes them is Brian and you can get easily (6) months or more out of a pair of coils..... They last forever !!!!!!!!.... I got them here.....
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/322450242728
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these are still going strong in my merlin! 
Here's the video tutorial,
These Kanthal coils need power, but if you have a Pwm or something to hit them above 7 to 8 volts they ramp up quickly.... The taste is out of this world..... The guy that makes them is Brian and you can get easily (6) months or more out of a pair of coils..... They last forever !!!!!!!!.... I got them here.....
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/322450242728
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These look really clean and tight. If I were you I be really proud because it is YOUR BUILD! Whatcha going to try next? A 26/36 fused clapton mabey? Your gonna be hooked once you experience that!
Vape mail? Anyhoo these really shine if you want a good warm vape. They take alot of power to ramp and hold alot of heat but are really great with the sweet juices cause they dont clog up and keep on venting.Left Kanthal ribbon .30 Ohms.... Right Kanthal .50 Ohms
These are to run on a Pwm mod... They are 5mm circumference
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next run will go smoother now that you know how careful you need to be.
Nice toad! What decore you use? I was thinking 24g for 4x .4 with 28g framesTook a stab at a framed alien.
Pretty green at working with 40g. Seems a light breeze is enough to affect the decore of such fine wire. No room for error at all. A hair too tight or too loose while alien wrapping seems to be my challenge with the 40g.
Think I got it down, next run should be more effective.
You fuck up better than I build LMAO
LmfaoYou fuck up better than I build LMAO
Dude that's nice I would be super proud of those! I have that same problem with 40g aliens. The decore is so fragile and finicky and I hate it. I figured there wouldn't be much difference in 38 and 40 but I was wrong. You did a freaking amazing job on those manTook a stab at a framed alien.
Pretty green at working with 40g. Seems a light breeze is enough to affect the decore of such fine wire. No room for error at all. A hair too tight or too loose while alien wrapping seems to be my challenge with the 40g.
Think I got it down, next run should be more effective.
Turned out pretty good! It was smart staggering 38 for 40g wrap. It leaves you a little wiggle room but still tight enough that i wouldnt have noticed if you didnt mention it.Ok im not exactly thrilled with this other then its my first staggered staple ive done. This is 4ply .5 KA1 - 28G SS frames 38G SS stagger and all fused together with 40g SS.
Is that 1/2 of a big double barrel?My prep turned into an ok build on it's own so I'll post it before I get it done.
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The alien looks good but its actually spaced enough that you could frame it and turn it into an alien stag. Is that the goal or did you just lead it a little too much?Took a stab at a framed alien.
Pretty green at working with 40g. Seems a light breeze is enough to affect the decore of such fine wire. No room for error at all. A hair too tight or too loose while alien wrapping seems to be my challenge with the 40g.
Think I got it down, next run should be more effective.
Thats a good idea never thought of switching the plan when the skip gets outa wack. Lemons into hybrid lemonade!About an hour start to finish with 40g. I haven't made any since these.
I do my round wire spacing at almost full speed (about 1500 to 2000rpm). The fuse starts on a twist and ends on a twist so when I cut the spool wire off everything stays in place. Then I glue 1/2" on both ends and 1" in the middle.
Cut everything down and bring your frames side by side without flipping either piece.
Sit your stack between the frames and with everything laying on the table nice and parallel/flat just glue the stack in on both ends. Bind the very last bit of both frames together, hook the swivel with one end and put the other in the drill. If your spacing is good you can just keep the spool at your desired angle and fuse pretty fast...if it's not you'll have to weave that shit.
Some of my builds like this had shitty spacing so I'll measure it out make hybrids. When the weave angle gets to be too much you can skip fuse or go from skip fusing to full fuse to help your angle.
Ive done 6 sets of ssfc so and have it down to just under 1/2 hour now. Using weighted loop and corded drill for the frames at 2500. I switch to the cordless at mid speed around 800-1000 for the final wrap. I havent done them with anything lighter than 38g tho. And yes I still keep my cores under tension. Guess Im just a retard but its working good for me.
Was going to be. I shouldn't have skipped 2 spaces. Made the rest impossible to fuse. I'll make it again I suppose.
Damn... you're on to me!
Wish i had a mech device so i could actually use some of this shit i build. Battlestar wouldnt even glow these for me just said "shorted" had to use old sigelei. 28G SS frames / 6x .3 KA1 ribbon / 40G SS alien 24G decore .1 ohm
Cool man! If you have a build thats borderline try burning in 1 coil in at a time. Once they oxidize the resistance goes up slightly. Or get a G class! I hear they fire really low like .05!Wish i had a mech device so i could actually use some of this shit i build. Battlestar wouldnt even glow these for me just said "shorted" had to use old sigelei. 28G SS frames / 6x .3 KA1 ribbon / 40G SS alien 24G decore .1 ohm
Cool man! If you have a build thats borderline try burning in 1 coil in at a time. Once they oxidize the resistance goes up slightly. Or get a G class! I hear they fire really low like .05!
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Im talking about the SX mini g class. The yihi sx 550j fires down to .05.
Buy an Hohm Wrecker G2...fires down to .007 and its wattage is in RMS so its realistic and incredibly accurate. Its higher in efficiency then the DNA chips so battery life is longer at the same wattages. Its built like a Tank and will last you years instead of months.
Take a Qtip and clean out the 510 on your G2, if you use a very protruding pin and screw it down all the way sometimes the pin stays down and causes this issue....just a quick push and its fixed. If your still having issues then make sure everything is tightened down on the RDA/RTA and try again.
Yep. It means continuous power in the real world. Most mods are given a peak rating which is what it can do briefly or before exploding.
But....my Pioneer 12" said it could do 3000w, your saying they lied!?!?!?
Duh thanks! I thought i remembered that abbreviation from somewhere but given the context of this forum i wasnt even thinking about audio! Lol
