Speaking of audio...Vaping and building are cheap compared to my last obsession...hehehe
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I'm a DD and AudioQue/SoundQubed fan but when it comes to normal car audio it's hard to beat Hifonics amps. They make some shit and some good ones.But....my Pioneer 12" said it could do 3000w, your saying they lied!?!?!?
Just kidding, Im a Sundown Fan
Hopefully in the next few months I can build another T-Line and afford to put beats in my car piece by piece.
It'll be the loudest daily driven car I've ever built with a stock electrical.
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I know expensive audio shit is some peoples thing but I've designed and built folded horns and t-lines for all my stuff and pieced everything together since I was 13 or 14.Speaking of audio...Vaping and building are cheap compared to my last obsession...hehehe
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Usually a $3000 HT system still uses passive crossovers and some ported or sealed enclosure... That just doesn't sit well with me. Especially when they could have used half the power and made it louder and given it an almost perfectly flat response. Plus it wouldn't have cost as much.
It feels like all these companies care about any more is money and numbers.
I can't wait to be able to afford to do that shit again...even if it is just cheap Dayton divers.
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I did some investigating and discovered my Reload clone doesn't like my G2. If I screw the atty all the way down it gives the "connect atomizer" message. I'm gonna have to cut a shim to go under it so it doesn't screw all the way down.
I took the coils in the picture above out and put in a pair of simple coils that I wound myself, that I knew ohmed about .5 just to find the problem.
Now, if I can figure out why it's pouring juice out the air slots, I'll be in business. I know my wicking leaves something to be desired, but even with no wicks, it shouldn't have poured like it did I don't think. It may have a bad o-ring on it, but it'll be tomorrow before I can troubleshoot that. It's done wore me down today!
I have a Similar setup in my bedroom...its not as neatly put together...Speaking of audio...Vaping and building are cheap compared to my last obsession...hehehe
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2 Sony Prop Audio 60" Towers, each packing:
2 15" Woofers
1 10" Full Range
1 2" Horn Tweeters
Around the room are 6 Statilites with 4.5" Woofers and a 1" Tweeter
2500w Gemini XGA3000 amp
Sony STR-DH770
Excuse the chair..racing chair is in the build room now.
Yeah the high end audiophile gear is just stupid. I know morons who think theyr $20k cables are actually worth the diffrence in sound. I mean my whole rig is 1/2 that. All paradigm prestige anthem mrx710 and oppo. $ spent on building room treatments is very well spent tho.
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Amazing colors! What camera and lens are you using? Lightbox?Forgot t post some of my latest stuff...so here goes.
Variations of Staggered Framed Staple Builds
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Here's my second ever one-handed build. 12 wraps, 24g KA1, 3mm, .5 ohms for the pair. At 45 watts, these put out some awesome flavor in the Reload clone. The picture is a little fuzzy because I couldn't figure out how to get the camera on this tablet to focus on the coils instead of the mod under 'em.
Once I figure out what's causing the leak, I think this is gonna be one awesome atty. If the authentic is better quality than this, I gotta save up and get me one of them!
Once I figure out what's causing the leak, I think this is gonna be one awesome atty. If the authentic is better quality than this, I gotta save up and get me one of them!
I wouldn't even pay $1000 for solid silver gold clad cables lol.
I understand an optical signal cable but from the amp that shits just analog anyway.
If the wire is thick enough for the job and it's the good oxygen free 99.9% copper stuff I honestly don't think you could tell the difference between that and the super expensive stuff.
I've always been a cheap skate though.
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Here's my second ever one-handed build. 12 wraps, 24g KA1, 3mm, .5 ohms for the pair. At 45 watts, these put out some awesome flavor in the Reload clone. The picture is a little fuzzy because I couldn't figure out how to get the camera on this tablet to focus on the coils instead of the mod under 'em.
View attachment 86455
Once I figure out what's causing the leak, I think this is gonna be one awesome atty. If the authentic is better quality than this, I gotta save up and get me one of them!
Which clone did you get? The kindbright ones are supposedly 1:1 except the deck.
With the real one you only have to sit the tails over the holes.
Plug the holes up completely then let some juice sit in there. If it still leaks it's probably the insulator under the post.
As for the focus you should be able to touch the screen to make it focus. If you've already done that you're too close. If you can't do that download the OpenCamera app.
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I'm pretty sure I got the Kindbright. I got it from another forum member but it came in the same box as the pictures on 3FVape.
I believe I may not have gotten the top cap tightened down good when I put juice in it the first time. I rewicked and filled again off the mod just in case and so far it hasn't leaked a drop this time. I still need to work on wicking but once I get it, this thing is gonna rock!
Regarding the focus, I probably was too close. I had to set the tablet on top of a drinking glass to hold it so I could snap the picture, so that would explain it. Thanks for all your help.
Well IMO a good solid state power amp uses a combination of both strong continuous power output (RMS value) and a big enough power reserve (to effortlessly handle all the highest peaks), but it's also got be really very clean and undistorted to sound good. I own an Emotiva XPA-2 Gen 1 myself, and I absolutely love how it sounds on EVERY music genre.
Vaping_MD_Student
Member For 2 Years
My first successful alien. It took three failed tries last night and I finally knocked it out today. Good swivels made all of the difference! 3x 26G Kanthal A1 core with 32G Kanthal A1 wrap and 4mm ID. Ohmed out at .15 before pulsing. Ohms out at .18 after pulsing and wicking. I'm definitely going to use a lower resistance wire on these now that I've got the basic concept down. The ramp on these sucks..
nice work
try them with 36 or higher gauge wrap to get the ramp up a bit quicker.
26n80 & 36gn80. The lighter wrap will give you a quicker ramp for sure. Itll also make it easier to keep the cores in line because youll be using less tension.nice work
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FINALLY got a pair...... .80 Kanthal......5mm diameter..... Voltrove time.......
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Man 12" inches for (1) Coil...........
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Man 12" inches for (1) Coil...........
FINALLY got a pair...... .80 Kanthal......5mm diameter..... Voltrove time.......
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Man 12" inches for (1) Coil...........
Nice build!
How long did it take to make?
Same ebay coils you posted a few pages back? Those are clean mosters! Saying how much wire it took to build them makes it sound like you built them yourself. If so thats a big improvement from the last coils you made! What are the wire specs beyond the resistance?FINALLY got a pair...... .80 Kanthal......5mm diameter..... Voltrove time.......
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Man 12" inches for (1) Coil...........
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I just had to show you guys these coils that came with the Serpent SMM edition. I was blown away when I realized they were quad core claptons with what looks like a 38 or 40g wrap. The cores are small, 30 or 32g? In the 24X macro shot you can see small little tick marks left from machining I assume. I can only imagine they're machine made coils...unless they have a thousand kids working in a sweat shop busting out a coil every 5 mins for 16 hours a day...right? Nah 
Either way the coils are pretty sweet to be included with a tank. Wotofo rocks
Either way the coils are pretty sweet to be included with a tank. Wotofo rocks 
Just made a single 9-wrap Sleeper on my Kennedy RDA. It's 2 coils made from a single piece of wire, but it seems to give me superior performance compared to any of my previous dual coil builds. Gonna try 2 of them on my Obese Buddha before long.
Coil resistance is 0.45 ohms. Wattage is 132 watts.
The Sleeper awakens...
Wow, looks like you've got kind of a honeycomb aluminum thing going on there. What kind of performance do you get out of those bad boys?
Coil resistance is 0.45 ohms. Wattage is 132 watts.
The Sleeper awakens...
I just had to show you guys these coils that came with the Serpent SMM edition. I was blown away when I realized they were quad core claptons with what looks like a 38 or 40g wrap. The cores are small, 30 or 32g? In the 24X macro shot you can see small little tick marks left from machining I assume. I can only imagine they're machine made coils...unless they have a thousand kids working in a sweat shop busting out a coil every 5 mins for 16 hours a day...right? Nah
Wow, looks like you've got kind of a honeycomb aluminum thing going on there. What kind of performance do you get out of those bad boys?
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Been MIA on VU recently sorry guys!!!
6x0.3/28/36/36SS316LKP SSFC's
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Well here's something...offset staggerton?
Anyone think I should take that last fuse off?
All the ribbon is A1 and the offset is fused with 40g KD. The rest is 40g SS and 27g n80 frames.
It's not going to vape worth a fuck but if I can make my mind up on what looks better, staggered or full fuse, it should color really cool.
It's what I made for this thing when it gets here from CoilArt:
Anyone think I should take that last fuse off?
All the ribbon is A1 and the offset is fused with 40g KD. The rest is 40g SS and 27g n80 frames.
It's not going to vape worth a fuck but if I can make my mind up on what looks better, staggered or full fuse, it should color really cool.
It's what I made for this thing when it gets here from CoilArt:
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Well here's something...offset staggerton?
Anyone think I should take that last fuse off?
Nahhhh looks unfinished without it imo.
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26-40 3 core fused claptons ss316l. I hate working with 40 guage at this time but im sure with practice it will get better. im not even going to attempt a 40 guage alien wrap until the 3 core fused claptons are as easy as they are with 36 for me right now. also I think im probably the only one in the world that prefers the taste with a 36g wrap over 40g. im just trying to practice up with the 40g.
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40g aliens are easy if you use the same stretch and just guide it on there as fast as the drill will go. I use an AC drill for aliens to get more speed.
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End cut of a 20 ply 0.5x0.1 staple coil
The actual coils:
For factory made coils these are actually pretty nice. The flavor on the Serpent SMM is intense! It's almost sickening the amount of flavor it gives...something I never thought I'd say. One thing about the stock coils though I didnt like. After mounting them up, I started to slowly heat them si I could determine what kind of wire was used. I'm thinking its ni80. It took them glowing red to get the colors to appear. Started off a nice shade of gold, then to a dark blue/purple. Heres the part I didnt like: I took my ceramic tweezers and started strumming the coils and saw that the color was being scraped off. I haven't ran into that before so I was a little hesitant to vape them. After I got them glowing nice and even I took them back to the sink for a scrub. Most of the color cleaned off and when re-heated it came back. Pretty wierd shitJust made a single 9-wrap Sleeper on my Kennedy RDA. It's 2 coils made from a single piece of wire, but it seems to give me superior performance compared to any of my previous dual coil builds. Gonna try 2 of them on my Obese Buddha before long.
Coil resistance is 0.45 ohms. Wattage is 132 watts.
The Sleeper awakens...
Wow, looks like you've got kind of a honeycomb aluminum thing going on there. What kind of performance do you get out of those bad boys?
*Edit: The intense flavor could possibly be the juice I'm vaping. I just got the tank and I've only tested one juice in it so far. I need to do some further testing to get a honest opinion
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SS Interlocks
Hey guys. Long time building, first time joining a forum :/ so I'm not sure what the protocols are but this is a build I kind of fell into. I've been attempting triple core staggered fused Clapton recently and had been having trouble getting the 3 cores to stay parallel. The wires kept getting locked into a pyramid shape instead but that gave me the idea to, after the triple core had been wrapped/filled in to twist the whole lot together. I call it a vortex staggered clapton because I haven't seen one before. Whatever it's called, it hits like a train
Attachments
I forgot to say it's 3 strands of 28g, staggered with 32g, wrapped with 32g. Full Ni80 coming out at, on this mod at least, .30
Ain't no protocols. Post away!
Looks beastly. I like it!
Have you tried using a ribbon slider to keep the cores parallel? Just wrap a bit of ribbon around the cores, and pinch it flat(but not too tight). Keep it a little bit ahead of your wrapping as you go.
And welcome to the circus!
Ain't no protocols. Post away!
Looks beastly. I like it!
Have you tried using a ribbon slider to keep the cores parallel? Just wrap a bit of ribbon around the cores, and pinch it flat(but not too tight). Keep it a little bit ahead of your wrapping as you go.
And welcome to the circus!
Thanks man. I like it myself, got a good absorption rate even with high VG juice.
I haven't tried a ribbon wire slider but I have used regular wire pinched round and that didn't seem to help. I think I may be putting too much pressure on the drill because I've had the centre wire snap halfway down while wrapping before but I find if I don't have enough pressure there the wire that I'm wrapping in the spaces looks sloppy and loose. I'll try using a ribbon slider next time and see if it's any better.
Hopefully get some more of my builds up here soon as I've been busy playing with wire for over a year but only ever shown people in person as I was kicked off FakeBook and have never used a forum before. The only thing I seem to have trouble with is colouring coils but I'm sure I'll be able to find some help with that here
so as per usual I got distracted by drink and people when it came to wraping the coil after making the wire, but here is my first attempt at a staggered fused clapton with 26g and 36g wrap ss316l. I really need to remember that coiling the damn thing is as important as making the wire. if I dont remember that it will be a disaster when I throw a few strands of ribbon between these. I did not notice how messed up the wire is until I got in close haha. from a far the wire looked great. 
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Sounds like you need to revamp everything about how you build.Thanks man. I like it myself, got a good absorption rate even with high VG juice.
I haven't tried a ribbon wire slider but I have used regular wire pinched round and that didn't seem to help. I think I may be putting too much pressure on the drill because I've had the centre wire snap halfway down while wrapping before but I find if I don't have enough pressure there the wire that I'm wrapping in the spaces looks sloppy and loose. I'll try using a ribbon slider next time and see if it's any better.
Hopefully get some more of my builds up here soon as I've been busy playing with wire for over a year but only ever shown people in person as I was kicked off FakeBook and have never used a forum before. The only thing I seem to have trouble with is colouring coils but I'm sure I'll be able to find some help with that here
Tension shouldn't affect spacing and you shouldn't be breaking any wire with tension.
If you need more than just a slight tug then the prep is wrong.
No offense but when I can't relate to anything in a post here, things are way off.
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Keeping less tension is the way to go... as you can see for yourself:Hey guys. Long time building, first time joining a forum :/ so I'm not sure what the protocols are but this is a build I kind of fell into. I've been attempting triple core staggered fused Clapton recently and had been having trouble getting the 3 cores to stay parallel. The wires kept getting locked into a pyramid shape instead but that gave me the idea to, after the triple core had been wrapped/filled in to twist the whole lot together. I call it a vortex staggered clapton because I haven't seen one before. Whatever it's called, it hits like a train
Well I think you're wrong white owl. You obviously didn't read my post properly because I made no mention of spacing being bad, my spacing comes out perfect every time. It's the wrapping part I have trouble with. Further to that, it's only triple core staggered and up I'm having problems with. So not everything needs "revamping", try and be helpful rather than just sniping.
Carambdra I have watched that video a few times. I use the techniques but wrapping at the speed he does just makes a mess for me. It was, however, due to that video that I was able to start doing standard staggered fused claptons so I agree it's worth the watch.
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Carambdra I have watched that video a few times. I use the techniques but wrapping at the speed he does just makes a mess for me. It was, however, due to that video that I was able to start doing standard staggered fused claptons so I agree it's worth the watch.
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If you have 28g snapping then something is not rite. Ribbon sliders dont work with this build especially if you are loosening up the staggered wraps. When a ribbon slider it snug enough to be effective it wont slide it will just snag and screw your spacing up. Either float the center core like whiteowl will suggest or set it up like doing and alien and supplement with a clip/hair pin/clothespins. And dont use so much tension while doing the final wrap.
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It's also possible that your swivels are wearing out. But breaking core wires while wrapping? Yeah, something is definitely wonky somewhere.
Try not to take our advice as criticism. We can be rather blunt and come off as assholes sometimes, but we just want to help.
Looks like that to me too. They are very twisted. Either or worn swivels/too much tension on final wrap.
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I intentionally twisted the parallel wire at the end to get that shape. That's why I called it a vortex staggered clapton. Acts kinds of like a mix between twisted wire and staggered fused claptons. It's not meant to be parallel.
I can understand blunt, I can be blunt. Being told I need to review my entire technique though? I don't accept that, if my technique was terrible then I would have had to come to forums at an earlier time and it wouldn't have been to show off a coil. I have most wires down to a T now, it's just some of the more elaborate ones that can still cause hiccups for me. I understand, however, that there is still more for me to learn and that's why I decided to take the plunge and join a forum. I appreciate helpful comments and pointers but assuming I'm doing everything wrong? Well, yano what they say about assumption...
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I can understand blunt, I can be blunt. Being told I need to review my entire technique though? I don't accept that, if my technique was terrible then I would have had to come to forums at an earlier time and it wouldn't have been to show off a coil. I have most wires down to a T now, it's just some of the more elaborate ones that can still cause hiccups for me. I understand, however, that there is still more for me to learn and that's why I decided to take the plunge and join a forum. I appreciate helpful comments and pointers but assuming I'm doing everything wrong? Well, yano what they say about assumption...
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I didn't mean I used sliders with this build. I've used them for alien wire and fused claptons before. The way I managed to get the wire parallel on the triple core was to just tie the middle wire to the swivel and tie the other 2 wires to that. Seemed to work alright I just twisted the parallel wire together at the end. What is this "floating the middle wire" though? It's not a term I've come across with the videos I've watched.
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Accept it or not the techniques your having problems with are basic building blocks that everyone here at one point had to HUMBLY ask help with when they were 1st learning. I have a problem, i ask a question, i try the solution offered, if it works great show appreciation! If not try again then come back to see if there is another solution. Denial solves nothing.
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That's why it's snapping. You are not only putting too much pressure but it's also only on one wire.
Floating is when you have 2 wires either attached at the drill and the swivel or attached to the drill and looped through the swivel. Then the third core in between not attached but glued/wrapped to stay put.
Now what this will do is the load of the drill is on two wires instead of 1 plus I think that the one wire you were using is twisting instead of spinning which causes it to snap.
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If youve actually been sucessful with aliens then you would know to set up your cores the same way. After all it is a 3 core build right? "Tieing" to the center wire is one of your problems.
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A detailed explanation this greatly appreciated. I'll give that a try now and see how much easier it becomes.
Thank you.
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