How's the flavor on that one?
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Use 25w. Flick the hotspots out before there's any color.Made a set of interlocks, all SS 30Gx3 / 40g on 40g. Not much for pics was in a hurry for work and hot spots killed me for color.
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Some more build pics:
Springer X RDA with some Hybrids Installed.
SPECS: 3x28g SS/36g SS & 40g N80
CoilArt sent me their DRPO RDA, tossed some Pitchfork Styled Staggertons in it.
SPECS: 9PLY .3ka1 Ribbon/28g SS Frames, 40g/42g Fusing.
I still have more pics of this build to come but a sneak peak....The Death Trap RDA by DeathwishModz: Triple Interlock Double Hump Enigma's Installed.
SPECS: Core: 28g ss Frames + 14PLY .3ka1 Ribbon, Wrap is 40N80/36g SS/40N80. Decore was 24g.
More Shots...
Red Goon Cap:
Boxer Clone and Goon 1.5 Black Clone:
Springer X RDA with some Hybrids Installed.
SPECS: 3x28g SS/36g SS & 40g N80
CoilArt sent me their DRPO RDA, tossed some Pitchfork Styled Staggertons in it.
SPECS: 9PLY .3ka1 Ribbon/28g SS Frames, 40g/42g Fusing.
I still have more pics of this build to come but a sneak peak....The Death Trap RDA by DeathwishModz: Triple Interlock Double Hump Enigma's Installed.
SPECS: Core: 28g ss Frames + 14PLY .3ka1 Ribbon, Wrap is 40N80/36g SS/40N80. Decore was 24g.
More Shots...
Red Goon Cap:
Boxer Clone and Goon 1.5 Black Clone:
Awesome stuff. Just awesome
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Heres my 4th or 5th build. Its .5mm ribbon claptoned with 32ga Nichrome 80 running parallel to a 24g Nichrome 80. Im so new to building, and cant wait to try out some staggered fused claptons soon. The first few were just paralleling 24g Nichrome 80 6 wraps and single 24g Nichrome 80 8 wraps.
Sorry about the not so descent pic quality..
Sorry about the not so descent pic quality..
Nice work. What ya vaping it at?
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It ohmd out at .13 and I'm vaping it at 70watts. It's a little hot for my taste. I should have stopped at 5 wraps I guess.. lol
I'm learning
Back to some basics.
14ply .3Ka1/44gNi80 Staple on the Goon 1.5
Couple little bobbles but its vaping great!
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14ply .3Ka1/44gNi80 Staple on the Goon 1.5
Couple little bobbles but its vaping great!
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NICE! I bet it vapes fantastic!
Ok! My staggered fused clapton's came out ok I guess. There's a couple bad spots, but hey... its my first try at these. They're Ni80 24ga cores with Ni80 32ga clapton and fuse wrapped at 2.5mm. I had to work out the hot spots one at a time because they ohm'd out at .07 at first. Once I worked them a bit individually, I mounted them together on my Goon 1.5 and they ohm'd out at .10. I'm vaping at 60 watts.
I used the button trick by the way. It worked out well, but I had a hard time fusing them together. Does anyone have any tricks they use to fuse the pair by chance?
I used the button trick by the way. It worked out well, but I had a hard time fusing them together. Does anyone have any tricks they use to fuse the pair by chance?
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Nice for you 1st try...and very unique! The wrap should lay between the staggers and not cross over them. Also the mass from a heavy wrap is gonna kill your ramp up time. So use lighter guage. It may seem intimidating at 1st but dont use anything heavier than 36g. After you finish the stagger clapton lightly grab the end with nylon plyers and reverse drill for a second. This will loosen the wrap so youll have to put a touch of hot glue on the ends and middle. Wherever your going to cut it.
Keep spinnin!
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Best advice I can give about fused staggered claptons is after doing the spaced Clapton you should leave a bit of core at the end to grab hold of. Then undo the beginning of the staggered clapton and grab the end piece of the core and spin the other way to which you wrapped your clapton. It will free up the staggered clapton to be able to move as you're wrapping your fuse wire. Makes things miles easier.
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@Dustyjeans @KarmicRage Thank you both 
Thats funny I didnt even notice that the lay was wrapped crossed over.. hah! I have some 36ga Ni80 in the mail, and some 26ga as well. Ill give it a go with these gauges next round. Would you guys recommend glue over tape?
Thats funny I didnt even notice that the lay was wrapped crossed over.. hah! I have some 36ga Ni80 in the mail, and some 26ga as well. Ill give it a go with these gauges next round. Would you guys recommend glue over tape?
No worries la. Personally I think the coil looks sound. If it heats right, chucks clouds and doesn't give hot legs it's laughing with me lol. I can't say I've ever used glue for a build but I did notice that whiteowl84 uses glue for the more complex builds such a staggered staple fused claptonss. I'd say as long as it doesn't touch the usable part of the coil it couldn't hurt to keep your wire in place with glue. I will be utilising it in future builds that I deem necessary after seeing his build so whatever helps you make the best build you can is more than acceptable@Dustyjeans @KarmicRage Thank you both
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After further inspection it looks along the lines of the interlocking alien Clapton somehow maybe because the fuse wire steps back or forth each wrap. Nice looking coil all the same. How does it vape like?
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And not a problem la. Only wish I'd had the balls to ask for help 6 months ago onwards and upwards. Good luck with your coil building journey
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onwards and upwards. Good luck with your coil building journeySent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
I know what I did wrong. I bent the length of spaced clapton over and fused it. After watching a video by Sherlockhohms, I saw the problem.. I should have cut the length down the middle and flipped one side to match the other.
It vapes nice, but it does have one hell of a ramp up. I turned it up to 80 watts and about 60% airflow, and it vapes pretty good. Im getting some decent flavor, but I assume it will only get better if Im ohming out higher.
Can't say I've heard of that video maker, shall have a look as more knowledge is always useful. What device are ya busting that out of? Sometimes I feel that the device can hold back a coil from being as effective as it can be.
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Thats rite. Glue is your friend here put a dab in the middle right where you cut and the wraps wont slide. I use glue in 90% of my builds
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Also the finer wrap wire has little effect on the coils resistance. However will give you more surface area and less mass. As a VU regular contributor once said "34g is core wire around these parts!"
You will be suprised the diffrence it will make!
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Easiest way is to not even stagger the wrap.
Clapton 2 wires a little less than half way, loosen the wrap then stretch it down to make gaps.
Bind both naked ends together, hook one in the swivel and bite one in the drill.
Get the fuse started in the gaps then just keep the tension and fuse full speed.
The spacing doesn't have to be even close to perfect for anything but SSFCs and spaced clapton on ribbon.
You can do SSFCs with crap spacing too but you have to prep it just so. The wrap has to be able to work it's way down without the ribbon moving. Definitely possible though.
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Not a bad idea at all... Thanks
Sweet! Looking great man! Dont ya just love it when it all comes together?Staggs 6 ply .3 KA1 , 28G SS, 40G/40G stagger and fuse
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Absolutely, and all the help i have received. They know who they are.
Ill be diving more into staggering builds in these coming months and working on better pictures.
Aliens stags next?! You have all the building blocks and the vape is incredible! I havent had much time lately but when I can Ive been working on double barrel staggs. Taking my time with the fine fine line. Well fine for me that is... 44g
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Well first im going to buy a couple mechs because regulated mods are killing me on these builds .09 and .08, then i want to perfect my paraclapping and a better camera i want to learn how to really show the builds off... I feel like alot of time i spend making things perfect to show them off is worthless when i cant.
What kind of swivels do you use?
It's relevant to the paraclap thing.
And what phone. I know you're getting the G5 but till then I might have some pointers.
LG xpower or something like that, and couple diff kinds owl.
I know they are a name that i cant prnnounce off amazon lolLG xpower or something like that, and couple diff kinds owl.
Ok I'll try to go over everything.LG xpower or something like that, and couple diff kinds owl.
Swivels
They gotta be on point or the paraclap will be harder than it needs to be because if they lock up the wire will bounce.
Ray likes the smaller Tsunami Pros and I like the Kroks here:
http://m.tackledirect.com/sea-striker-billfisher-krok-barrel-swivels-2pk.html
The reason I like them is because for me they last alot longer (a few months) and the 330lb test spins like the smaller 10 to 15lb test swivels I've used. Probably because they spin from both ends.
Whichever you choose get small ones.
People think the big ones are better but not for paraclap on ribbon because you have twist to worry about. Keep them oiled.
Paraclap
Use thick sandwich ziplock bags and find a box that both baggies will fit into so the box holds them upright.
Close them or open them to add or remove tension.
Only pull hard enough to keep the line tight. Pulling harder gives you more twist, makes the swivels more likely to lock and wears the swivels faster.
I have best luck holding my hand below the core and about 8 to 10 inches away.
When you do ribbon you'll end up with some twist. To remove it just use the same tension to remove the spacing wire. Usually I can get it almost perfect but it took some practice.
Remember it's easy to paraclap 16" of wire with no gaps and still get bad spacing. It's super important to paraclap at an almost 90° angle and keep the tension and angle the same the entire way.
I'll to photography in a minute.
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Color
Firstly you gotta have good color.
I use a toothbrush and Dawn to wash my coils. I seriously get in there and scrub them, not hard just fast and all over. Then I rinse and repeat. If it's a really good build I'll do it 3 times then rinse the hell out if them. The soap residue will also hinder color so get in there good.
I sling all the water off then blow dry the atty and all.
Smaller builds I'll pulse at 20 to 25w and bigger ones I'll use up to 40w. Use as little as you possibly can. The reason for such low power is hotspots, you want them gone before you start to get much color so it'll all heat evenly and thus color evenly. If you're trying to get SS or n80 ribbon/frames to color with SS wrap try getting the hotspots out first. Once you know the wraps aren't shorting on each other or heating in one spot let the coil cool completely. Turn the mod up or use a mech to blast the shit out of the core so it's getting hot faster than the wrap. Hold it in till you see the core glow or the wrap color and work from there.
Macro
If you're using a crap phone then odds are it's got a shitty camera app. I use OpenCamera because it open source and has any feature your cheap phone can offer. Since we crop everything set it to 4:3, no point in rendering pixels to crop them out.
Set to max resolution and find Image Quality then change it from 90% to 100%.
Set focus to Macro. I prefer to lock mine in portrait but it's just a preference.
Experiment with ISO from 100 to 200.
Clean your macro lense and phone lense with microfiber.
Now you need a mini tripod and a shaded out door area.
If it's bright out get in the shade, if it's cloudy you'll need to just experiment with it. Basically you want it as bright as possible without light hitting the coils directly. I get under my porch and usually have my coils facing away from my house so light is hitting as bright as possible then I'll rotate as needed.
I'll set my tripod up and the mod in front of it or however I need it positioned and I just take pictures. I'll focus on different parts of the coil or atty and take a few pictures then if I like how they look I'll stay there with that lighting. Once I find a sweet spot I'll just gradually rotate the mod focusing on different places on one rotation and repeat till I get several angles. Then I'll change the tripod to get a lower or higher angle and repeat the whole process.
I take 30 to 50 shots to get 3 I'm happy with. Takes about 10 minutes from start to finish.
I don't actually edit anything I just crop and watermark then I'm done. I'll keep the extra pix for about 3 or 4 builds then mass delete 'em.
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Firstly you gotta have good color.
I use a toothbrush and Dawn to wash my coils. I seriously get in there and scrub them, not hard just fast and all over. Then I rinse and repeat. If it's a really good build I'll do it 3 times then rinse the hell out if them. The soap residue will also hinder color so get in there good.
I sling all the water off then blow dry the atty and all.
Smaller builds I'll pulse at 20 to 25w and bigger ones I'll use up to 40w. Use as little as you possibly can. The reason for such low power is hotspots, you want them gone before you start to get much color so it'll all heat evenly and thus color evenly. If you're trying to get SS or n80 ribbon/frames to color with SS wrap try getting the hotspots out first. Once you know the wraps aren't shorting on each other or heating in one spot let the coil cool completely. Turn the mod up or use a mech to blast the shit out of the core so it's getting hot faster than the wrap. Hold it in till you see the core glow or the wrap color and work from there.
Macro
If you're using a crap phone then odds are it's got a shitty camera app. I use OpenCamera because it open source and has any feature your cheap phone can offer. Since we crop everything set it to 4:3, no point in rendering pixels to crop them out.
Set to max resolution and find Image Quality then change it from 90% to 100%.
Set focus to Macro. I prefer to lock mine in portrait but it's just a preference.
Experiment with ISO from 100 to 200.
Clean your macro lense and phone lense with microfiber.
Now you need a mini tripod and a shaded out door area.
If it's bright out get in the shade, if it's cloudy you'll need to just experiment with it. Basically you want it as bright as possible without light hitting the coils directly. I get under my porch and usually have my coils facing away from my house so light is hitting as bright as possible then I'll rotate as needed.
I'll set my tripod up and the mod in front of it or however I need it positioned and I just take pictures. I'll focus on different parts of the coil or atty and take a few pictures then if I like how they look I'll stay there with that lighting. Once I find a sweet spot I'll just gradually rotate the mod focusing on different places on one rotation and repeat till I get several angles. Then I'll change the tripod to get a lower or higher angle and repeat the whole process.
I take 30 to 50 shots to get 3 I'm happy with. Takes about 10 minutes from start to finish.
I don't actually edit anything I just crop and watermark then I'm done. I'll keep the extra pix for about 3 or 4 builds then mass delete 'em.
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Thanks buddy, although i have no idea how to add little watermarks or icons to my pics on my phone
Most people editing with a phone use Pixlr. You can do about anything with it.
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All this is spot on. I quickly learned that even a 1/2 twist in a paraclaped ribbon stack can totally screw you.
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Heres my second run I did last night on the same build I thought I was running.
I cut the full length and flipped one to match the lay of the spaced clapton to fuze together. It came out good, although my wrap on the one behind was slightly angled on the one in the back of the pic.
I cut the full length and flipped one to match the lay of the spaced clapton to fuze together. It came out good, although my wrap on the one behind was slightly angled on the one in the back of the pic.
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Right now Im using the Kaos Spectrum regulated mod with the Goon 1.5 rda. Ill be buying the G2 Hohm wrecker or a mech mod as soon as I can afford one.
It could possibly be the rda that's holding it back. I used the original goon and personally wasn't overly impressed with its flavour or vapour production, obviously that's subjective. I'm sure there are people out there for whom it'll be the best rda they've used as well. I just couldn't get the kind of vape I like off it. There are some nice mech mods out there as well. I had a SMPL clone that just looked snazzy with almost anything on it but I quite like the look of the wondervape 270 mech or the broadside 20700 now. Really need to wind in my spending on this gear though
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It could possibly be the rda that's holding it back. I used the original goon and personally wasn't overly impressed with its flavour or vapour production, obviously that's subjective. I'm sure there are people out there for whom it'll be the best rda they've used as well. I just couldn't get the kind of vape I like off it. There are some nice mech mods out there as well. I had a SMPL clone that just looked snazzy with almost anything on it but I quite like the look of the wondervape 270 mech or the broadside 20700 now. Really need to wind in my spending on this gear though
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I ordered a Stargate RDA a couple days ago to try out a new one.. I saw some decent reviews on it, so I figured Id give it a try, and the price was pretty decent as well..
Which method did you use for these stags? They look tight to me. Btw whiteowls paraclap method has been a lifesaver for me. Its stupid easy now
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I started out with the button method for spacing then clipped the length in half to fuze. I screwed up and forgot to reverse the rotation to loosen up the wrap before I clipped it in half, but the wrap still had movement on the core. I dont have any glue to secure the spaced clapton, so I winged it and just matched them up and bent the ends. I had 12" to work with so it I wasn't worried about how I was going to start out or finish with this one just to have enough for a good couple coils. Im not quite how much tension I should be adding when fuzing. Maybe I was pulling to tight, or my cores werent spaced enough before fuzing? Its definitely a learning process here that I will get down for sure..
I don't use glue to hold them together myself. Use a piece of whatever gauge you're wrapping with and just wrap that around the beginning of the wire a good few times after they're matched up. Flatten it out with pliers and stick it in the drill. Gives the chuck of the drill more to get a grip of keeping them central as well. Lose less of the wire that way compared to bending over I find.
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