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Dustyjeans

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Naughty looking pair that

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Thanks man. Btw theyr 6 wraps/3.5mm/.25ohm
Needed another build for my DotMod Petri and since FS is one of my ATF builds I decided to miniturize it. Pushing my work on higher guages all the time.
Mini FS: 44gN/2x32gN80/8ply .2x.1N80!
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A normal FS take me about 20min but this little bastard was a chore. It took me 2 hours! I do like the Pure Atomist .2 Ni80 ribbon tho. Works very well!

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CrazyChef v2.0

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Needed another build for my DotMod Petri and since FS is one of my ATF builds I decided to miniturize it. Pushing my work on higher guages all the time.
Mini FS: 44gN/2x32gN80/8ply .2x.1N80!
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6282887851ed6a2a7f20e053170ebbc2.jpg
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A normal FS take me about 20min but this little bastard was a chore. It took me 2 hours! I do like the Pure Atomist .2 Ni80 ribbon tho. Works very well!

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Dude, the flavor of a smaller mm ribbon is much more favorable to me than the larger ones. .2 and .3 are my go-to ribbons these days.
 

Eggen

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So here is my first attempt at 3 core staggered fused Claptons. They are far from perfect but definitely vapeable. I originally floated the center wire but that was too lose and so to try and salvage the build I ended up anchoring the swivel end of all 3 wires to the swivel and left the drill side center wire floating between the outer two wires. Because of this I had some trouble with the cores collapsing over themselves. I was able to flatten the wire back out with my pliars. I need to work on getting that center wire floating in between the outer two tighter for sure. I may try to anchor both sides next time with good even tension and just go slow and see what happens. When you guys do this kind of stuff do you fuse with the spool in your hands or do you have some better setup that allows a more precise tension to be put on the wire?
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I am sorry for the long post and the poor lighting. I'm still experimenting with macro shots on my phone as well so everything is kind of dark and out of focus. It will get better I promise haha.
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KarmicRage

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I found that when floating the core wire it was easier to bind it inbetween the two outer wire with a small piece of wrap wire. Helped stop the core wire from jumping around a lot.

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champton

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Member For 4 Years
Have you tried wrapping the cores with masking tape at the floating end, then freehanding to keep the cores from wiggling around as much? That's how I would imagine doing a setup like that, though I've not personally tried it yet.

Squiddoode's got a good tutorial on fused claptons that you can use to learn how to freehand if you don't know already. It takes a bit of getting used to, but the result will be well worth it once you dial it in. This is the video I'm talking about.


When using swivels, I like to take one of my regular screwdrivers (not the small kind like the ones that come in a vape kit, a normal sized screwdriver like the kind you come across every day) and put it through the center of my spool so it spins more freely. When I freehand, I don't need to have the spool in my hand as I wrap my claptons. I can have it on the floor beneath me and it auto-unwinds itself as needed when I wrap.

Another way is to put the floating ends in a vice, between 2 small pieces of wood attached together with wood screws or anything that can hold the ends fast so they don't wiggle around.
 
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Cormic

Member For 3 Years
IMG_0052.JPG IMG_0055.JPG Fishing swivels kind of suck. It seems like the ones made with 608 skate bearings would have more than a desirable resistance also. I'm working on a couple different solutions for myself, if either works out I'll share.

This isnt great but it's by far the most time consuming of anything I've done. I learned a lot doing it and I think I can do a way better job next time but it will have to wait till I can put a serious block of time to it.
 
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MannyScoot

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Member For 4 Years
You bought another set of mondo heaters for the modfather?! Hehe you run the biggest coils of anyone i know! It looks like you may have a tough time setting them up and getting hot spots out. The decore they used was a little big. See the gap where the alien wrap goes around the frame? Not trying to be hyper critical just something to watch for when your setting them up.

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The bigger the better.......
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Eggen

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@Jriley I have an Instagram account but all I use it for is looking at other people's builds and picking up build pointers. If you post on Instagram I will follow you.

@KarmicRage that sounds like how I did it but I also used got glue afterwards. I may be misunderstanding what you are saying tho. Do you have a picture of how you ended up doing it? I remember you having success with this method so I am defiantly doing something wrong.

@champton I freehanded part of it. Freehanding frustrates me to no end tho so I ended up using the swivels.


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Dustyjeans

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The bigger the better.......
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Lol ok since I posted that i saw a set of SFC 22/32 8mm and 6or 7 wrap. But the guy was using a crazy 700wt pwm lipo box to power them. So i think hes got you beat Manny! Btw what I really want to know is how burnt your cotton gets in the middle of those snakes. I have a hard time believing that cotton can wick that far into such a long coil.

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Dustyjeans

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Member For 4 Years
View attachment 87816 View attachment 87817 Fishing swivels kind of suck. It seems like the ones made with 608 skate bearings would have more than a desirable resistance also. I'm working on a couple different solutions for myself, if either works out I'll share.

This isnt great but it's by far the most time consuming of anything I've done. I learned a lot doing it and I think I can do a way better job next time but it will have to wait till I can put a serious block of time to it.
I have the spin lt and use high end ballbearing swivels depemdimg on the application and the minimal spin resistance they put on the stick is nothing compared to the tension/pull that you can add by holding your wrap wire to tight.

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Cormic

Member For 3 Years
I have "good" ball bearing fishing swivels. But the fact that everyone runs at least two in a chain, usually three to six tells you how bad /prone to failure they are (it's not what they are made for after all). I know I can do better, but I would like to find off the self parts that are cheap and doesn't require any machinery or special equipment to make so anyone can go to their local hardware store or amazon to get it. The 608 bearing cost about 60 cents and the clevis pin is about the same. That's what it looks like the 3D printed ones I've seen use. But not everyone has a 3D printer. You could do the same thing with a block of wood and a drill I suppose. But even then I think I can make something that spins with less resistance, and lasts.
 

Dustyjeans

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I have "good" ball bearing fishing swivels. But the fact that everyone runs at least two in a chain, usually three to six tells you how bad /prone to failure they are (it's not what they are made for after all). I know I can do better, but I would like to find off the self parts that are cheap and doesn't require any machinery or special equipment to make so anyone can go to their local hardware store or amazon to get it. The 608 bearing cost about 60 cents and the clevis pin is about the same. That's what it looks like the 3D printed ones I've seen use. But not everyone has a 3D printer. You could do the same thing with a block of wood and a drill I suppose. But even then I think I can make something that spins with less resistance, and lasts.
No resistance? How about rare earth magnets? I heard it was done before but never seen it. Please share if you come up with something better. I took whoteowls suggestion got the Krok swivels and I couldnt be happier. Nothing sucks worse then trying to get that 90degree twist out of a perfectly staggered ribbon stack.

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Aaronmc

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Here are my first set of alien coils! Im proud of myself.. lol. These guys are made of 26g and 36g Ni80. Theyre tripple core wrapped at 3mm ohmd out at .10. Talk about flavor.. I love em. I may stick to easier builds for a while though. These guys took me a bit to complete.

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whiteowl84

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I've used ceramic ball bearings and swivels.
Swivels are better if you're making shit that's easy to mess up.
It's almost impossible to do 4ply paraclap with ball bearings across 16" or more.
It's only the shitty swivels that lock up. It takes me 4 to 6 months to wear out 2 swivels.
Usually they lock up because people pull on them.
If you hook my swivels up to my swvl the ceramics don't even try to spin.

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Cormic

Member For 3 Years
I've used ceramic ball bearings and swivels.
Swivels are better if you're making shit that's easy to mess up.
It's almost impossible to do 4ply paraclap with ball bearings across 16" or more.
It's only the shitty swivels that lock up. It takes me 4 to 6 months to wear out 2 swivels.
Usually they lock up because people pull on them.
If you hook my swivels up to my swvl the ceramics don't even try to spin.

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That's what I figured, even with really light oil I was guessing radial bearing like that would be to tight.
That's why I'm going a little different direction.
 

Cormic

Member For 3 Years
Makes it sound like it's top secret when I read that, lol. So I'll lay it out a bit. There are two directions I'm going, one is really just for me and addresses a whole lot of issues I have. The second is for everyone if it works well. For that, my plan is to take two thrust bearing and sandwich an aluminum pin between them. This will work just like a ball bearing fishing swivel except increasing tension won't really cause it to lock up if I get the engineering right. The two biggest problems are mass, and no matter how extreme I make the statement not to over tighten it, 50% would do it anyway. But if I do it right it should outperform fishing swivels and last basically forever.
 

Dustyjeans

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Here are my first set of alien coils! Im proud of myself.. lol. These guys are made of 26g and 36g Ni80. Theyre tripple core wrapped at 3mm ohmd out at .10. Talk about flavor.. I love em. I may stick to easier builds for a while though. These guys took me a bit to complete.

View attachment 87893 View attachment 87894
Wow! Of thats your 1st try keep it up!

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Dustyjeans

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Makes it sound like it's top secret when I read that, lol. So I'll lay it out a bit. There are two directions I'm going, one is really just for me and addresses a whole lot of issues I have. The second is for everyone if it works well. For that, my plan is to take two thrust bearing and sandwich an aluminum pin between them. This will work just like a ball bearing fishing swivel except increasing tension won't really cause it to lock up if I get the engineering right. The two biggest problems are mass, and no matter how extreme I make the statement not to over tighten it, 50% would do it anyway. But if I do it right it should outperform fishing swivels and last basically forever.
If you can find thrust bearing with a mass low enough to work thats a good idea. I londa doubt it but if theyr out there McMaster Carr will have them.

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Eggen

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I just got some new fishing swivels and I can not put any pressure on them without them locking up. I'm pretty bummed about it because they were supposed to be nicer than my other ones. I'm going to try to get some oil in there somehow without it making a mess when they are spinning and I'm hoping that will help.

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whiteowl84

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Bill Fisher Kroks are the best I've ever used. They don't lock up till they start to die after several months.

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Carambrda

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I have "good" ball bearing fishing swivels. But the fact that everyone runs at least two in a chain, usually three to six tells you how bad /prone to failure they are (it's not what they are made for after all). I know I can do better, but I would like to find off the self parts that are cheap and doesn't require any machinery or special equipment to make so anyone can go to their local hardware store or amazon to get it. The 608 bearing cost about 60 cents and the clevis pin is about the same. That's what it looks like the 3D printed ones I've seen use. But not everyone has a 3D printer. You could do the same thing with a block of wood and a drill I suppose. But even then I think I can make something that spins with less resistance, and lasts.
I use Mad Cat ball bearing swivels (the smallest available size) the ball bearings of which are PTFE coated... just soak them in WD 40 and they won't wear out easily. They're not very expensive, and they can support up to 110kg (242.5lbs).

emerillon-power-bb-swivels-mad-cat-2.jpg
 

whiteowl84

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Wd40 is not a lubricant. Any that was on them is long gone.
3 in 1, royal purple, or even singer sewing machine oil works well and you only need to use it when you feel like it.
You'd have to use Wd40 every time you build to keep them going.
Anyone that's ever raced rc cars, skateboarded or rebuilt any part of an engine will tell you, Wd40 is a bearing killer if you don't strip them with alcohol then use oil.
It's for removing water and debris from mechanisms.

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Carambrda

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Wd40 is not a lubricant. Any that was on them is long gone.
3 in 1, royal purple, or even singer sewing machine oil works well and you only need to use it when you feel like it.
You'd have to use Wd40 every time you build to keep them going.
Anyone that's ever raced rc cars, skateboarded or rebuilt any part of an engine will tell you, Wd40 is a bearing killer if you don't strip them with alcohol then use oil.
It's for removing water and debris from mechanisms.

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The local B&M store are using these swivels to build alien coils almost every day. They told me they haven't had any problems with them, yet they're using WD 40 instead of lubricant... I actually even told them the same thing you just said about WD 40, but their reply was still that they haven't had any problems so if it works, it works. lol
 

Aaronmc

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One thing you guys might want to look into is the powder lubricants. Theyre used in lock/key tumblers and such. Not sure how well it would work out, but worth a try. I used WD40 for my swivels, and havent had any problems yet. But then again, I havent built much with them. WD40 does work for water displacement, but also has great lubricating qualities. I would just worry about over use without cleaning the swivels before reapplying more lube or it could gunk up on you. Another great one I just thought about that I used in the construction trades is a lithium lubricant.

https://www.wd40specialist.com/products/white-lithium-grease/
 

whiteowl84

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Yeah if you KEEP using it it'll keep working. I started building using Wd40 on Walmart swivels and I'd have to spray them every day and they'd only last about a week. Somewhere along the line I bought singer oil which didn't do anything to make them last longer but I only needed to use it once in the lifetime of the swivels.
Wd40 will work but if you've bought good swivels I'd highly recommend using oil instead. It's a pita having to spray every time you build...or in some cases I'd use it a few times for one 40" alien stick.

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whiteowl84

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One thing you guys might want to look into is the powder lubricants. Theyre used in lock/key tumblers and such. Not sure how well it would work out, but worth a try. I used WD40 for my swivels, and havent had any problems yet. But then again, I havent built much with them. WD40 does work for water displacement, but also has great lubricating qualities. I would just worry about over use without cleaning the swivels before reapplying more lube or it could gunk up on you. Another great one I just thought about that I used in the construction trades is a lithium lubricant.

https://www.wd40specialist.com/products/white-lithium-grease/
Lithium grease is great in larger bearings but idk about small ones...it would definitely stay in there but it might be thicker than you'd want in a tiny bearing like a swivel.
Definitely don't use graphite/powder in any bearing. It's more for things that slide against each other.
Even a swivel has a very tight tolerance, any powder would make it tighter because it can't just roll out of the way like oil.
Lithium grease like bones speed cream or something super thin might work but I don't know for sure.

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Eggen

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Yeah I'm going to buy some kroks. The swivels I just got are tsunami pros. I was planning on using some rem oil (Remington gun oil) Because that's what I have around here and it has always worked well for everything I have used it for. Off topic, does anyone know of a way other than paraclaping to put a spaced wrap on ribbon or multiple round wire cores? I only have one spool of 36 and one spool of 40 left.

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Cormic

Member For 3 Years
WD40 really is ment to get in and free up rusty bolts and the like, penetrating oil. Any light weight oil should work though. I use 3 in 1 household oil, because I had some handy.

And I dont think there is a good way other than paraclap
 

Eggen

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WD40 really is ment to get in and free up rusty bolts and the like, penetrating oil. Any light weight oil should work though. I use 3 in 1 household oil, because I had some handy.

And I dont think there is a good way other than paraclap
Damnit. Guess I'm going to have to try and invent my own way then lol.

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Cormic

Member For 3 Years
If you can find thrust bearing with a mass low enough to work thats a good idea. I londa doubt it but if theyr out there McMaster Carr will have them.

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I have good access to anything I need. And they are out there even if I have to make them myself :) worst case though I'll use one race and the balls and make the other race myself.
 

Eggen

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I have good access to anything I need. And they are out there even if I have to make them myself :) worst case though I'll use one race and the balls and make the other race myself.
Well cormic, when you have a prototype let me know. I will pre order one right away. You should look at patenting the idea and then setting up a go fund me or something of the like to help foot the bill of production and consumer models. Be sure to get that patent pending before starting anything like that tho because it would suck for someone to steal it and patent it themselves.

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whiteowl84

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Yeah I'm going to buy some kroks. The swivels I just got are tsunami pros. I was planning on using some rem oil (Remington gun oil) Because that's what I have around here and it has always worked well for everything I have used it for. Off topic, does anyone know of a way other than paraclaping to put a spaced wrap on ribbon or multiple round wire cores? I only have one spool of 36 and one spool of 40 left.

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What are you doing with the spaced clapton? If it's just a simple staggerton you can use the loop method unless it's really wide but it won't be perfect spacing so it'll be almost impossible to line two pieces up and since you aren't pulling a strand off it'll be hard to get any twist back out.
If you're making a double stuffed build, a ribbon framed SSFC or if you're wanting a perfect staggerton the only method that works is paraclap and it has to be perfect paraclap to line up 2 or more pieces. By perfect I mean you have to fuse almost perpendicular and keep that same angle the entire way or it won't line up.

Just ask if you want me to tell/show you the easy way to do it. Good swivels are important here.

Gun oil would be a good one. I've used Tsunami Pros too and I wasn't impressed.
 

Eggen

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I'm not sure what it is called but I was planning going to do a staggerton type thing with 2 pieces of round wire in the center with a spaced wrap. Probably 28g ss. I was considering a normal staggerton as well. @Jriley that wire looks awesome! How does it vape?

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whiteowl84

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If the 2 pieces of round are fused together it would be a staggerton with round cores. If they're not fused together it would be a double stuffed staggerton with round cores.

Jriley posted a SSFC variant.
 

Eggen

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If the 2 pieces of round are fused together it would be a staggerton with round cores. If they're not fused together it would be a double stuffed staggerton with round cores.

Jriley posted a SSFC variant.
They would be fused together so I'm trying to build a staggerton with round wire. Do you think I can do that with the loop method or should I just wait for my other spool to get here so I can paraclap it?

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Jriley

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They would be fused together so I'm trying to build a staggerton with round wire. Do you think I can do that with the loop method or should I just wait for my other spool to get here so I can paraclap it?

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Round wire is different for me brother i dont paraclap it , its pain to paraclap 28/30g because its all so stretchy and makes swivels do weird shit. I prefer using weighted method , and then it still wont line up all the time. I just dont stagger round wire anymore because it pisses me off lmao
 

whiteowl84

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He's talking about doing a 2x or 3x 26 or 28g core for the initial spaced clapton so paraclap is the only way to get it perfect. You can try to loop it but I wouldn't personally.
Just so you know the round cores are going to be more likely to twist and when fused you won't really be able to tell it's round. Ray made one and it looked identical to a ribbon cored stagg.

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Eggen

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Well I got drunk and decided to just make my room mate some 3 core fused Claptons with 28g cores and 40g wraps. These swivels even oiled are do much worse than the random Wal-Mart ones I started with. First time I have ever witnessed 2 swivels lock up at the same time as bad as this.
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Jriley

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Well I got drunk and decided to just make my room mate some 3 core fused Claptons with 28g cores and 40g wraps. These swivels even oiled are do much worse than the random Wal-Mart ones I started with. First time I have ever witnessed 2 swivels lock up at the same time as bad as this.
ceddc13bd56d2da1c86d378db2809f7a.jpg
6a72482af69900f556e4e0858dc66447.jpg


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Tension will kill swivels man... Im going to purchase a small vise just for my drill so i can keep myself from pulling on it. Same goea with your spool , to much tension will cause a swivel to freeze and your shit will twist.
 

Eggen

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Tension will kill swivels man... Im going to purchase a small vise just for my drill so i can keep myself from pulling on it. Same goea with your spool , to much tension will cause a swivel to freeze and your shit will twist.
I hear you man but I really think it was the swivels this time. This is some pretty basic stuff that I have done too many times to count and I did everything the same. The only variable was the swivels. I must say I love the idea of having a dedicated vice for the drill to make sure you don't pull to hard though. I'm going to defiantly get setup like that. Thank you for that, I think it will save a lot of time in the future.

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Jriley

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Yep no worries, maybe it was the swivels. What i did since swivels were so cheap on amazon was bought like 3 packages of different kinds from diff makers.. They are more then likely like everything else and made all at the same place and just rebadged anyway.
 

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