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raymo2u

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First try at what Im calling a @f4rr3ll Build! This was probably the most difficult thing so far for me to pull off...the biggest difficulty was to keep it all together in my fingers while I made little braces to hold it for the outer wrap...

Specs: 28 x .6R/34N80/24N80/38N80

20160506_111335.jpg 20160506_111349.jpg
20160506_111825.jpg
 

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raymo2u

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How does something like that vape @raymo2u? Do you gain anything over say an alien or is it just aesthetics?
Its mostly Aesthetics...Its also difficult to pull of and not many can...I made another build tonight thats just as hard but I didt get the Cores wrap spaced perfectly so the outer most wrap wasnt perfect visually....

This is it:

043b730404a216a743ae90855d30ec6a.jpg
 

Rhett1977

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Holy shit that is sick. I was just curious if there is a better build other than the alien or the other could you are making me as part of the Hog v2 deal.
 

raymo2u

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Holy shit that is sick. I was just curious if there is a better build other than the alien or the other could you are making me as part of the Hog v2 deal.
Alien Framed Staples and Tsuka Framed Alien/Alien Framed Staples is about as high in performance as it gets...Framed Staples/Staggered Framed Staples are great performers also....
 

Rhett1977

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What do you get with the tails builds? How much is a pair of those? Maybe I need to add that to what I've got you building me already.
 

raymo2u

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Tsuka builds. Sorry stupid autocorrect keeps changing what I'm typing
They benefit with wicking, they guide and hold the juice. I have a pic of a Tsuka Alien Framed Staple....and thats the peak of the most wicking properties and performance you could have....though it take forever to make and getting it perfect is a challenge in itself...Also not many things can even accept these as they are large...

f53ae1b1d22755db356354820cfac9f4.jpg
 

Shiminifonglay

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@raymo2u

I was ordering 25m of 38g N80, but the wholesaler told me they don't sell them because Nickel can be bad for health when used for vaping. Is this true?

Also, I did a twisted Kanthal 24g and used it on my current setup, Tsunami RDA + Noisy Cricket, I did dual coil 10 loops/3mm guide from it but I only got 0.31 resistance. Now I just bought 32g, 28g and 26g Kanthal since I'm thinking of doing Clapton and Fused Clapton, but seeing as I'm not getting the desired resistance, I'm hesitating of proceeding. Any advice on what I'm doing wrong?
 

Shiminifonglay

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@mach1ne

I tried, but I'm not really that technical with the terms and everything (stupid me), sorry! I really tried, but it seems I really don't get how that damn calc works! :D
 

raymo2u

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@raymo2u

I was ordering 25m of 38g N80, but the wholesaler told me they don't sell them because Nickel can be bad for health when used for vaping. Is this true?

Also, I did a twisted Kanthal 24g and used it on my current setup, Tsunami RDA + Noisy Cricket, I did dual coil 10 loops/3mm guide from it but I only got 0.31 resistance. Now I just bought 32g, 28g and 26g Kanthal since I'm thinking of doing Clapton and Fused Clapton, but seeing as I'm not getting the desired resistance, I'm hesitating of proceeding. Any advice on what I'm doing wrong?
Yes I dont use NI200 for that very reason but Nichrome 80 is a different composition so it doesnt have the same possible health concerns. Core wire is what contributes to your resistance, the outer wrap doesnt effect the resistance enough for your device to even measure it, if you want the resistance to go up you need to go higher in gauge. . For Series builds I use 28g Kanthal A1 cores.
 

mach1ne

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@mach1ne

I tried, but I'm not really that technical with the terms and everything (stupid me), sorry! I really tried, but it seems I really don't get how that damn calc works! :D
theres a lot of options and boxes to tinker with. spend some time there and youll get the hang of it. try setting it up to read the twisted 24g coils you just made and it might start to make more sense.

edit - keep in mind also that it only calculates one coil, so if you are running dual coils, your final resistance will be half of what steam engine says for a single coil.
 

Shiminifonglay

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Yes I dont use NI200 for that very reason but Nichrome 80 is a different composition so it doesnt have the same possible health concerns. Core wire is what contributes to your resistance, the outer wrap doesnt effect the resistance enough for your device to even measure it, if you want the resistance to go up you need to go higher in gauge. . For Series builds I use 28g Kanthal A1 cores.

Very well noted. Is it okay if I use 32g Kanthal as outer wrap? I'll be posting them later when I get home, the ones I'd be able to make successfully.
 

raymo2u

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Very well noted. Is it okay if I use 32g Kanthal as outer wrap? I'll be posting them later when I get home, the ones I'd be able to make successfully.
You can but it will add to ramp up time as it adds a "heatsink effect" due to how thick it is, I like using 36g-46g for outer wrap myself.
 

Shiminifonglay

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You can but it will add to ramp up time as it adds a "heatsink effect" due to how thick it is, I like using 36g-46g for outer wrap myself.
Yea, problem for me is the availability of that kind of Kanthal. How about a 38g SS as outer wrap?
 

raymo2u

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Yea, problem for me is the availability of that kind of Kanthal. How about a 38g SS as outer wrap?
That would work fine, the outer wrap does not matter at all....the problem is your cores....try and use the highest gauge wire you can find for the outer wrap in SS/Kanthal/N80 becuase it only helps with wicking and ramp up but the Cores use 26g/28g Kanthal unless you want to stay that low in resistance.
 

Shiminifonglay

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That would work fine, the outer wrap does not matter at all....the problem is your cores....try and use the highest gauge wire you can find for the outer wrap in SS/Kanthal/N80 becuase it only helps with wicking and ramp up but the Cores use 26g/28g Kanthal unless you want to stay that low in resistance.
I got a 2m of 26g and 28g and 4m of 32g all Kanthal, I'll be working on my Claptons and Fused Claptons later when I get home. I'll try to get a high gauge wire of SS/Kanthal/N80 later. I'm relieved it's not N80 that has Nickel problems :D

Question though, N80 is Nichrome?
 

raymo2u

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If you have a hammer the cut 4 strands of 28g and then clapton it with the 32g then lay it on something hard and lightly hit it with a hammer, make sure its all leveled and flat then coil it....you'll have a nice Cat track coil to use...

Like this:

20160402_170104.jpg 20160402_170047.jpg
 

Shiminifonglay

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If you have a hammer the cut 4 strands of 28g and then clapton it with the 32g then lay it on something hard and lightly hit it with a hammer, make sure its all leveled and flat then coil it....you'll have a nice Cat track coil to use...

Like this:

View attachment 50098 View attachment 50099

So, I'd first make a Clapton out of 4 strands of 28g with 32g Kanthal as the outer wrap then hammer it? I'll try it out later, sorry for repeating what you said I'm just confirming :D

How is the resistance for this one? I'm currently limited to my Tsunami RDA and Indestructible RDA, so I'm wary if higher loops of this wire would fit my decks.
 

raymo2u

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So, I'd first make a Clapton out of 4 strands of 28g with 32g Kanthal as the outer wrap then hammer it? I'll try it out later, sorry for repeating what you said I'm just confirming :D

How is the resistance for this one? I'm currently limited to my Tsunami RDA and Indestructible RDA, so I'm wary if higher loops of this wire would fit my decks.
It shouldnt be a problem, if your worried use 3 cores instead. Yes just put the 3 strands of 28 in the drill and clapton them and then beat with a hammer. Coil it on a 3mm bit and you will be fine, around a .5 Single coil with 6 wraps....use it as a single coil if your putting it on a series box.
 

Shiminifonglay

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It shouldnt be a problem, if your worried use 3 cores instead. Yes just put the 3 strands of 28 in the drill and clapton them and then beat with a hammer. Coil it on a 3mm bit and you will be fine, around a .5 Single coil with 6 wraps....use it as a single coil if your putting it on a series box.
Got it. Thanks! I really love staying here and reading all of the stuff that you guys post. It's really helpful with my vaping experience. I just got a meter of 24g from my coworker, will try to make different coils to play with later.
 

raymo2u

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So I got bored today and I had the pair of failed ?Staggerton Framed Staples? and I wanted to try them out. I got some nice colors out of them...and I think these are some great pics of it!! This isnt even in a lightbox!!!

Specs: 32 x .6R/34N80/24N80/248N80

20160508_165128.jpg 20160508_165757.jpg 20160508_170540.jpg 20160508_165852.jpg 20160508_170335.jpg20160508_170613.jpg 20160508_170350.jpg 20160508_170113.jpg 20160508_165931.jpg 20160508_170000.jpg
 

raymo2u

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I think this is the craziest Boreas Build Ive done yet...it may not look as insane as some of the others but its spec's DO NOT belong in a RTA....but damn its a fine vape and the Boreas is keeping up without a hiccup! Look at this sexy stuff right here, I admit I was pretty damn impressed with myself....and Im using some Native wicks Platinum Blend for wicking....They give you alot of cotton but I dont think its much better then Cotton Bacon V2, I would rate them about the same in color & cleanliness, absorbency, and flavor...

Alien Fraples 6 x .4R/26N80/38N80 (6 wraps/3mm ID @ .07 Ohms)

20160509_134832.jpg 20160509_135226.jpg 20160509_135041.jpg 20160509_135213.jpg 20160509_140803.jpg
 

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Raymo, are you making any SS coils yet?

I bought a shit load of SS wire, but I'm just using it for regular 3mm coils.

If you're making or planning please let us know.....:vapemail:

Thanks..!
 

VapeVillian

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I cant yet...I couldnt afford to get the SS wire yet...hopefully I can soon.
I got a ton during the LV Amazon sale. 250' of 24g was $11, 26g $10, and 32g for $6.

Also got a ton of other wire, but I have noticed 2 things that are quite odd. Ton, and I mean completely coated, of oil on the wires. Second, their wires come off the spool with weird kinks. Some, even trying to straighten them out by drill doesn't get them out. But at the crazy prices they had, I can't complain.

I did have a question for you Ray. I'm having trouble with my 42 & 44g wraps when making high guage fused Claptons and aliens. When I go to burn the coils, the wraps seem to literally melt. This is before the coils even start to glow. Any tips to remedy this?

Thanks man and keep up the crazy good work YCB.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 

raymo2u

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I got a ton during the LV Amazon sale. 250' of 24g was $11, 26g $10, and 32g for $6.

Also got a ton of other wire, but I have noticed 2 things that are quite odd. Ton, and I mean completely coated, of oil on the wires. Second, their wires come off the spool with weird kinks. Some, even trying to straighten them out by drill doesn't get them out. But at the crazy prices they had, I can't complain.

I did have a question for you Ray. I'm having trouble with my 42 & 44g wraps when making high guage fused Claptons and aliens. When I go to burn the coils, the wraps seem to literally melt. This is before the coils even start to glow. Any tips to remedy this?

Thanks man and keep up the crazy good work YCB.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
You need to less wattage when pulsing for hotspots....Its easier on a regulated mod, set to 30w and go into a dark room and lightly hit the button and find them and try to get them out. You can slowly bring on more watts as you get rid of them but it may take awhile. This is the best way to remove them without the risk of burning through.
 

raymo2u

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I was getting pretty aggravated this morning after 3 different builds with Ribbon either folded or warped....I finally made something that didnt screw up. Now this isnt what I was working on but I knew I could pull it off and that it would feel better then another lot of wasted wire and time...

Tsuka Framed Staples..
15 x .4R/26N80/.6R (4 Wraps/3mm ID)

20160510_112609.jpg 20160510_112631.jpg 20160510_113334.jpg 20160510_113314.jpg 20160510_113527.jpg 20160510_114756.jpg 20160510_114703.jpg 20160510_115705.jpg 20160510_115755.jpg
 

raymo2u

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Here's something I just finished up...I dont think Ill even use it as its really that nice...Its a build that I duplicated from Obi_Vape_Kenobi. I love the look of the staggered Framed Staples and I love how thin and wide this coil is....Its just magical looking!! (Its as thin as a strand of 28g....)

Staggered Framed Staples 17 x .3R/30KA1/38N80/40N80

20160510_152337.jpg 20160510_152321.jpg 20160510_152155.jpg 20160510_152252.jpg 20160510_152244.jpg 20160510_152232.jpg 20160510_152513.jpg 20160510_152510.jpg 20160510_152540.jpg 20160510_152519.jpg
 

Shiminifonglay

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It shouldnt be a problem, if your worried use 3 cores instead. Yes just put the 3 strands of 28 in the drill and clapton them and then beat with a hammer. Coil it on a 3mm bit and you will be fine, around a .5 Single coil with 6 wraps....use it as a single coil if your putting it on a series box.

So, here's a weird thing. My friend and I went to an online seller last night and I got another pair of LGHG2 and he got 5m of Clapton 26/32. I asked him for some Clapton wire and when I made my build again, at 9 loops I got a 0.6 resistance o_O? Then, of course I was thinking it's too high since I got used to warm vape, I reduced it to 8 loops and I got 0.55, I reduced it again to 7 loops (current setup now) It's still 0.5. It's just weird because on my last Clapton, the 8 loops I built was only 0.4 resistance on a single coil, but now I'm running dual coils on 7 loops 3mm guide and it's a whopping 0.5. Maybe I'll try out 6 loops if my friend would still give me some Clapton hehe.
 

JERUS

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@raymo2u

I was ordering 25m of 38g N80, but the wholesaler told me they don't sell them because Nickel can be bad for health when used for vaping. Is this true?

Also, I did a twisted Kanthal 24g and used it on my current setup, Tsunami RDA + Noisy Cricket, I did dual coil 10 loops/3mm guide from it but I only got 0.31 resistance. Now I just bought 32g, 28g and 26g Kanthal since I'm thinking of doing Clapton and Fused Clapton, but seeing as I'm not getting the desired resistance, I'm hesitating of proceeding. Any advice on what I'm doing wrong?
Ok, starting here... it's raymo's thread, so he can tell me to shut up if he wants, he's awesome I don't want to step on toes, but figure I can help a little.

General idea, thicker wire (lower gauge) you'll get lower resistance.

Nickel wire is not really a health concern, the freak out is that at high temperatures nickel can give off some nasty chemicals, but that takes heat far higher than anyone is going to vape at. If you're anywhere close to that range of heat you're going to be coughing up a lung and going "fuck that" and rebuilding, so it's not something to really worry about with Nichrome. That said, personally I've never used nichrome, simply no need I like my Kanthal and SS. THIS is what I use for most wrapping, there's better options out there, but it works for me. Cheap and effective, though probably not the cleanest option (I'm a lazy idiot who just dryburns before vaping rather than giving a full cleaning, cleaning is recommended). But, there's an option for higher gauge Kanthal, and no Kanthal D isn't worse than Kanthal A1, raymo actually hit me up to that fact by showing specs.

General rule of thumb for fused clapton on a 22mm deck filling the deck and Kanthal A1 cores (like Raymo said the wrap is basically non existent in this result). 24g FCs = .25Ω each, 26g FCs = .5Ω each, 28g FCs = 1Ω each. So on a Noisy Cricket 28g FCs are very nice. Jumping to 316L SS you basically drop 2 gauges and use the same idea (so 30g 316L SS = 28g KA1), so 30g SS is what I'm using right now, it's nice.

As for your most recent post, well that does seem odd or at least enough to raise an eyebrow, however premade clapton wire is something I just refuse to touch, it's pretty janky and sub par. But, anyways, there's a few things that could easily explain your issues. First, did you make sure to take the slack out of your coil? If you don't while you wrapped at 3mm rod, you actually get ~3.4mm from the clapton but then if you don't take the slack out it'll spring out to maybe 4mm+ which will change the resistance more than you might think. Next is possibly a connection issue, are you sure the screws are all tight, full connection on everything? Then there's simply the fact that again those premade claptons are generally cheap wire which may be a bit off. And, lastly there's a possibility of poor connections and inherent resistance in your mod. Just lots of things that could explain it being slightly off. Either way, there's enough variables that I always take the calculations as an estimate not to be adhered to completely, as long as everything checks out if the calculations aren't matching as long as I have reasons why that might be (like the above) I'm good.

As for the clapton you had before, was it a 24g core rather than a 26g? If so that'd explain the difference and match up with calculations. If it was 26g I'd ask if you had any possible shorts that might lower the resistance? Lots of stuff going on, lots of possible reasons for the things you're describing. I will say, a clapton proper installed (pull taught, calculated including the wrap, and with decent wire that's consistent with the norm) it's usually not that far off from calculated approximations. I might need one more or less wraps to hit a desired resistance, but I'm not seeing something like a 26g clapton hit .4Ω at 8 wraps when it should be more like 5 to see that.

Anyways, hope that helps a little. Raymo is the guy to ask, but I'm hanging out drunk and a little bored and figured I'd throw some thoughts out there.
 

raymo2u

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Ok, starting here... it's raymo's thread, so he can tell me to shut up if he wants, he's awesome I don't want to step on toes, but figure I can help a little.

General idea, thicker wire (lower gauge) you'll get lower resistance.

Nickel wire is not really a health concern, the freak out is that at high temperatures nickel can give off some nasty chemicals, but that takes heat far higher than anyone is going to vape at. If you're anywhere close to that range of heat you're going to be coughing up a lung and going "fuck that" and rebuilding, so it's not something to really worry about with Nichrome. That said, personally I've never used nichrome, simply no need I like my Kanthal and SS. THIS is what I use for most wrapping, there's better options out there, but it works for me. Cheap and effective, though probably not the cleanest option (I'm a lazy idiot who just dryburns before vaping rather than giving a full cleaning, cleaning is recommended). But, there's an option for higher gauge Kanthal, and no Kanthal D isn't worse than Kanthal A1, raymo actually hit me up to that fact by showing specs.

General rule of thumb for fused clapton on a 22mm deck filling the deck and Kanthal A1 cores (like Raymo said the wrap is basically non existent in this result). 24g FCs = .25Ω each, 26g FCs = .5Ω each, 28g FCs = 1Ω each. So on a Noisy Cricket 28g FCs are very nice. Jumping to 316L SS you basically drop 2 gauges and use the same idea (so 30g 316L SS = 28g KA1), so 30g SS is what I'm using right now, it's nice.

As for your most recent post, well that does seem odd or at least enough to raise an eyebrow, however premade clapton wire is something I just refuse to touch, it's pretty janky and sub par. But, anyways, there's a few things that could easily explain your issues. First, did you make sure to take the slack out of your coil? If you don't while you wrapped at 3mm rod, you actually get ~3.4mm from the clapton but then if you don't take the slack out it'll spring out to maybe 4mm+ which will change the resistance more than you might think. Next is possibly a connection issue, are you sure the screws are all tight, full connection on everything? Then there's simply the fact that again those premade claptons are generally cheap wire which may be a bit off. And, lastly there's a possibility of poor connections and inherent resistance in your mod. Just lots of things that could explain it being slightly off. Either way, there's enough variables that I always take the calculations as an estimate not to be adhered to completely, as long as everything checks out if the calculations aren't matching as long as I have reasons why that might be (like the above) I'm good.

As for the clapton you had before, was it a 24g core rather than a 26g? If so that'd explain the difference and match up with calculations. If it was 26g I'd ask if you had any possible shorts that might lower the resistance? Lots of stuff going on, lots of possible reasons for the things you're describing. I will say, a clapton proper installed (pull taught, calculated including the wrap, and with decent wire that's consistent with the norm) it's usually not that far off from calculated approximations. I might need one more or less wraps to hit a desired resistance, but I'm not seeing something like a 26g clapton hit .4Ω at 8 wraps when it should be more like 5 to see that.

Anyways, hope that helps a little. Raymo is the guy to ask, but I'm hanging out drunk and a little bored and figured I'd throw some thoughts out there.

Well written and posted for a drunken builder ;)
 

raymo2u

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Ray are you getting good flavor from the Goon?
Yes, I like it with all three holes eclipsed though....The Clone of the Goon has much wider holes and I like it with 2 holes open on that one....I have another goon clone coming and from the look of its pictures it looks to be a true 1:1 so Im hoping it has the same post specs as the original this time.

Some more pics of what Ive done tonight...

20160510_164456.jpg 20160510_164607.jpg 20160510_163530.jpg 20160510_164335.jpg

And a New Build: 3(6 x.4R)/24SS Squared/38N80/40N80:

20160510_195619.jpg 20160510_195544.jpg 20160510_200945.jpg 20160510_201013.jpg
 

raymo2u

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My drill ran out of juice mid staple! I didn't have anything else to do while I wait 8hours for this thing to recharge :sadpanda:
My drill is wired to the charger...Its always plugged in and I unplug it and wrap the cord around the handle if needed for anything but coiling....Next is a foot pedal as soon as I get a better drill.
 

JERUS

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My drill is wired to the charger...Its always plugged in and I unplug it and wrap the cord around the handle if needed for anything but coiling....Next is a foot pedal as soon as I get a better drill.
I have a 2400rpm corded drill waiting for me. I just need to order one of those wire clamps, not sure why I haven't. Happen to have that link to the one that fits in the chuck? BTW new coils look amazing... I haven't tried Fraples yet, but staples are treating me damn nicely. Still having trouble with 10+ .3 strands, my goal is 16 strands of .3 for my Theorem, should be a nice low resistance for the tube mod I'm using, and without too much ramp up time... Might have to hit you up :)

Thoughts on ramp up vs resistance with fraples? I'd like something ~.18Ω without too much ramp up time and single coil. The Theorem is damn tasty but I'm having trouble with perfecting a coil.
 

Shiminifonglay

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Ok, starting here... it's raymo's thread, so he can tell me to shut up if he wants, he's awesome I don't want to step on toes, but figure I can help a little.

General idea, thicker wire (lower gauge) you'll get lower resistance.

Nickel wire is not really a health concern, the freak out is that at high temperatures nickel can give off some nasty chemicals, but that takes heat far higher than anyone is going to vape at. If you're anywhere close to that range of heat you're going to be coughing up a lung and going "fuck that" and rebuilding, so it's not something to really worry about with Nichrome. That said, personally I've never used nichrome, simply no need I like my Kanthal and SS. THIS is what I use for most wrapping, there's better options out there, but it works for me. Cheap and effective, though probably not the cleanest option (I'm a lazy idiot who just dryburns before vaping rather than giving a full cleaning, cleaning is recommended). But, there's an option for higher gauge Kanthal, and no Kanthal D isn't worse than Kanthal A1, raymo actually hit me up to that fact by showing specs.

General rule of thumb for fused clapton on a 22mm deck filling the deck and Kanthal A1 cores (like Raymo said the wrap is basically non existent in this result). 24g FCs = .25Ω each, 26g FCs = .5Ω each, 28g FCs = 1Ω each. So on a Noisy Cricket 28g FCs are very nice. Jumping to 316L SS you basically drop 2 gauges and use the same idea (so 30g 316L SS = 28g KA1), so 30g SS is what I'm using right now, it's nice.

As for your most recent post, well that does seem odd or at least enough to raise an eyebrow, however premade clapton wire is something I just refuse to touch, it's pretty janky and sub par. But, anyways, there's a few things that could easily explain your issues. First, did you make sure to take the slack out of your coil? If you don't while you wrapped at 3mm rod, you actually get ~3.4mm from the clapton but then if you don't take the slack out it'll spring out to maybe 4mm+ which will change the resistance more than you might think. Next is possibly a connection issue, are you sure the screws are all tight, full connection on everything? Then there's simply the fact that again those premade claptons are generally cheap wire which may be a bit off. And, lastly there's a possibility of poor connections and inherent resistance in your mod. Just lots of things that could explain it being slightly off. Either way, there's enough variables that I always take the calculations as an estimate not to be adhered to completely, as long as everything checks out if the calculations aren't matching as long as I have reasons why that might be (like the above) I'm good.

As for the clapton you had before, was it a 24g core rather than a 26g? If so that'd explain the difference and match up with calculations. If it was 26g I'd ask if you had any possible shorts that might lower the resistance? Lots of stuff going on, lots of possible reasons for the things you're describing. I will say, a clapton proper installed (pull taught, calculated including the wrap, and with decent wire that's consistent with the norm) it's usually not that far off from calculated approximations. I might need one more or less wraps to hit a desired resistance, but I'm not seeing something like a 26g clapton hit .4Ω at 8 wraps when it should be more like 5 to see that.

Anyways, hope that helps a little. Raymo is the guy to ask, but I'm hanging out drunk and a little bored and figured I'd throw some thoughts out there.

This has been very informative, thank you! I might go 6 loops later on with the Clapton I got from my friend.

I have a question also regarding on making a Clapton. When I tried making one over the weekend, the core seemed to be too loose from the outer wrap. Any tips in making Clapton? I've watching YouTube videos about it and I think I'm following what they are showing in the video.

In making Claptons, what core do you usually use when making the outer wrap? Do you use a higher gauge core just to make the wrap or wrap it directly to your desired core?
 

raymo2u

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I have a 2400rpm corded drill waiting for me. I just need to order one of those wire clamps, not sure why I haven't. Happen to have that link to the one that fits in the chuck? BTW new coils look amazing... I haven't tried Fraples yet, but staples are treating me damn nicely. Still having trouble with 10+ .3 strands, my goal is 16 strands of .3 for my Theorem, should be a nice low resistance for the tube mod I'm using, and without too much ramp up time... Might have to hit you up :)

Thoughts on ramp up vs resistance with fraples? I'd like something ~.18Ω without too much ramp up time and single coil. The Theorem is damn tasty but I'm having trouble with perfecting a coil.
Im not sure but try 6 x .5/26KA1/40N80 (6 Wraps/3mm ID) and that should be around .2 Ohms single coil...Its one of my favorites. Thanks for the compliments bud! Been experimenting alot lately with a bit more insane builds...
If you need anything dont be afraid to PM me about it!

This is the Hand Vise that fits in my drill chuck: LINK
 

JERUS

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This has been very informative, thank you! I might go 6 loops later on with the Clapton I got from my friend.

I have a question also regarding on making a Clapton. When I tried making one over the weekend, the core seemed to be too loose from the outer wrap. Any tips in making Clapton? I've watching YouTube videos about it and I think I'm following what they are showing in the video.

In making Claptons, what core do you usually use when making the outer wrap? Do you use a higher gauge core just to make the wrap or wrap it directly to your desired core?
Raymo's certainly more suited for this (I'm an amateur who's set in his ways), but, single core claptons I find are often loose, Crimping them before wrapping is a good idea, once you wrap them up they stick pretty well inside the coil where it matters. Fused claptons and such tend to stick a bit better.

If you've seen the swivel method that'll get it tighter than freehand for the most part, so that might help.

What do you mean by "making the outer wrap"? Personally when freehand I toss the spool onto a screw then run the wire through the grooves in my palm to keep some resistance, then pinch the wire and run the drill, keeps it tight from the friction of my palm. When doing the Swivel method I just "loosely" grip the center of the spool and let it run, if I feel it's too loose I grip tighter, too tight and lighten up. I don't do anything to "create" an outer wrap, it simply comes strait off the spool. Aliens are where you need to create the outer wrap and I haven't gotten into that, I like them, I've bought them, but it's still sitting on my to-do list.
 

JERUS

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Im not sure but try 6 x .5/26KA1/40N80 (6 Wraps/3mm ID) and that should be around .2 Ohms single coil...Its one of my favorites. Thanks for the compliments bud! Been experimenting alot lately with a bit more insane builds...
If you need anything dont be afraid to PM me about it!

This is the Hand Vise that fits in my drill chuck: LINK
Danke, I'll give it a try! The staple I was working on was a 16X .5 wrap, kind of just figured I'd give it a whirl to see what would happen. I'll be sure to give fraples a try soon.

And as far as compliments, sir, I can't say enough about you and Chef, both of you have inspired me enough to get off my ass (not literally as I build while sitting on my ass :p) and try new things. I wouldn't have this ****ing fantastic 30g SS PERFECT fused clapton on my Noisy cricket (wrapped in SS too, lets hope my theory of it lasting longer holds, god it's awesome).

And, well thanks to you I have a Lucifer clone on the way... my intention is putting the Boreas on it :shades:.

Anyways, you know damn well I can't finish this post without doing this:
Alot-vs-a-lot1-600x450.png
 

inspects

Squonkamaniac
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Yes, I like it with all three holes eclipsed though....The Clone of the Goon has much wider holes and I like it with 2 holes open on that one....I have another goon clone coming and from the look of its pictures it looks to be a true 1:1 so Im hoping it has the same post specs as the original this time.

Some more pics of what Ive done tonight...

View attachment 50516 View attachment 50517 View attachment 50520 View attachment 50522

And a New Build: 3(6 x.4R)/24SS Squared/38N80/40N80:

View attachment 50523 View attachment 50519 View attachment 50518 View attachment 50521
Very nice works of art.....:)
 

Shiminifonglay

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Raymo's certainly more suited for this (I'm an amateur who's set in his ways), but, single core claptons I find are often loose, Crimping them before wrapping is a good idea, once you wrap them up they stick pretty well inside the coil where it matters. Fused claptons and such tend to stick a bit better.

If you've seen the swivel method that'll get it tighter than freehand for the most part, so that might help.

What do you mean by "making the outer wrap"? Personally when freehand I toss the spool onto a screw then run the wire through the grooves in my palm to keep some resistance, then pinch the wire and run the drill, keeps it tight from the friction of my palm. When doing the Swivel method I just "loosely" grip the center of the spool and let it run, if I feel it's too loose I grip tighter, too tight and lighten up. I don't do anything to "create" an outer wrap, it simply comes strait off the spool. Aliens are where you need to create the outer wrap and I haven't gotten into that, I like them, I've bought them, but it's still sitting on my to-do list.

I see, I'll give it again a try this coming weekend. Thanks!
 

raymo2u

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So I finally pulled off a Corrugated SSFC Build without the Ribbon folding or anything...My crimping was too far apart before and this time I used much smaller teeth and Im guessing it gave it more ridgity over the bends. It came out okay and Im pretty happy with it...

Specs: 6 x .3R/28KA1/38N80/42N80 (4 Wraps/3mm ID)

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awoodby

Member For 4 Years
WOW. fantastic work, super looking forward to getting some of these! Excellent work. My eyes hurt from just looking at them, can't imagine making that intricate-ness.

That Mason deck, holy crap, you could fry steak bits on that sucker!

And that deck just above, interesting flat clamps rather than posts or holes.
 

raymo2u

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New Build for Today...Corrugated Mohawk Alien Framed Staple, I wanted to try something mixing the worlds of Corrugation and Alien but also doing something I havent done on purposed yet...Ive never made a Mohawk Alien before...
Specs: 4 x .4R/26N80/36N80 (4 Wraps /3.5mm ID)

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raymo2u

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Ive seen this a while ago but the was asked to try building it this morning, so after coming back from dropping off the kids at school I had a go at the Metal Snake Spine....My polishing Gear never came so instead I decided to Flatten the build to achieve the same result...

26N80/36N80 Metal Snake Spine Paralleled with Rolled 24KA1 (6/5 Wraps/3mm ID)

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