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Relatively New to Vaping, Looking for good Mech Mods

EquivalentExchange

Member For 3 Years
I'm pretty new to vaping. Ive been vaping for the past year but only actually got serious about it within the last month when I decided to go from a 45w device to my 200w Segilei Fuchai, and began using RDA's instead of tanks for the most part. My roommate works at a Vape shop and has been telling me about the Fuhattan and I would like to get one, however I continue to only find clones. That isn't too bad considering Im currently using a Velocity RDA clone which I love. However, I hear that Mech mods can be a bit more dangerous and Im a bit weary of getting a clone for fear it will explode in my pocket or when Im using it. I keep seeing the Fuhattan at a pretty low price, and Im kinda partial to the V3, love th F*** You logo on the front, however everywhere I see it, it seems to ship from China which I heard is also not good. Im new, and I take a lot of what I hear and commit it to law so to speak and was wondering if I could get some opinions on the matter. Is it safe to go with Mech Mod clones? Is there any such thing as a authentic Fuhattan? Sorry for the essay, but I appreciate any help that can be given.
 

Moueix

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I'm pretty new to vaping. Ive been vaping for the past year but only actually got serious about it within the last month when I decided to go from a 45w device to my 200w Segilei Fuchai, and began using RDA's instead of tanks for the most part. My roommate works at a Vape shop and has been telling me about the Fuhattan and I would like to get one, however I continue to only find clones. That isn't too bad considering Im currently using a Velocity RDA clone which I love. However, I hear that Mech mods can be a bit more dangerous and Im a bit weary of getting a clone for fear it will explode in my pocket or when Im using it. I keep seeing the Fuhattan at a pretty low price, and Im kinda partial to the V3, love th F*** You logo on the front, however everywhere I see it, it seems to ship from China which I heard is also not good. Im new, and I take a lot of what I hear and commit it to law so to speak and was wondering if I could get some opinions on the matter. Is it safe to go with Mech Mod clones? Is there any such thing as a authentic Fuhattan? Sorry for the essay, but I appreciate any help that can be given.

Hi @EquivalentExchange , and welcome to the Vaping Underground forum! REALLY nice to have you here.
Mechs are only as dangerous as the nut behind the fire button, mostly. They aren't ALL the same, the ones that allow the vaporizer to directly contact the battery (hybrid mods) are inherently more dangerous than those with a full top cap because they rely on the topper having a FIXED positive pin that cannot recede to the same height as the grounding threads, so avoid those if you want safety.

Also, nipple top batteries are usually safer than flat top in a mech. Making sure that the wrapper on your battery is undamaged, and checking the resistance of your atomizer before mounting it are the first line of defense against anything dumb happening.

All that said, mechs are SUPER budgetary dependent. I personally find the aesthetics and build quality of the Caravela unmatched, but they are darn pricey, and near impossible to find. My second favorite, and a lil less expensive, are the GP Paps with their WONDERFUL spring loaded top cap. Of the myriad of other mechs available, if you have any thoughts on what kind of features or aesthetics you are looking for or are important to you, lots of folks here would be delighted to help you out, myself included.

I personally don't know what the Fuhattan looks like, or anything about it. Hopefully someone who does will wander by soon. :)
 

EquivalentExchange

Member For 3 Years
Hi @EquivalentExchange , and welcome to the Vaping Underground forum! REALLY nice to have you here.
Mechs are only as dangerous as the nut behind the fire button, mostly. They aren't ALL the same, the ones that allow the vaporizer to directly contact the battery (hybrid mods) are inherently more dangerous than those with a full top cap because they rely on the topper having a FIXED positive pin that cannot recede to the same height as the grounding threads, so avoid those if you want safety.

Also, nipple top batteries are usually safer than flat top in a mech. Making sure that the wrapper on your battery is undamaged, and checking the resistance of your atomizer before mounting it are the first line of defense against anything dumb happening.

All that said, mechs are SUPER budgetary dependent. I personally find the aesthetics and build quality of the Caravela unmatched, but they are darn pricey, and near impossible to find. My second favorite, and a lil less expensive, are the GP Paps with their WONDERFUL spring loaded top cap. Of the myriad of other mechs available, if you have any thoughts on what kind of features or aesthetics you are looking for or are important to you, lots of folks here would be delighted to help you out, myself included.

I personally don't know what the Fuhattan looks like, or anything about it. Hopefully someone who does will wander by soon. :)


Thank you so much for the warm welcome! I've come to see that the vaping community is one of the most chill and friendly communities there is. Im looking for something no more than about 50$ or so at this moment, as I already have my Fuchai, that I really love but Mech Mods are really cool and I'd love to have at least one for the time being. Are there any reliable Mech Mods that aren't extremely pricey? Does the FUhattan work well, for that? I cannot for the life of me find anything more than clones and I found a cool set of them sold from Ebay, which include an RDA for about 40$, but they ship from China and Im just concerned about the safety of it being mass produced. I really appreciate all the help, Its really important to me to know how things work and what causes those safety issues, its good to know the specifics behind it and what to ensure a Mech Mod to ensure it works properly.
 

EquivalentExchange

Member For 3 Years
Why would you take a giant leap backwards?
A mech is going to come no where close to what you have currently.

Really? Aren't they unregulated, which I assumed means they'd pack a pretty hefty punch. I don't run my Fuchai much over 80 atm because I hate changing batteries very often, only have two sets atm and they rarely charge fast enough to keep vaping if I go any higher. haha
 

Moueix

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Really? Aren't they unregulated, which I assumed means they'd pack a pretty hefty punch. I don't run my Fuchai much over 80 atm because I hate changing batteries very often, only have two sets atm and they rarely charge fast enough to keep vaping if I go any higher. haha

Well, mechs are unto themselves, really. You get great punch from a well built, nearly lossless mech with fresh batts. Important to know that as the batts taper, they get weaker and weaker until they are gone. KNOWING when it is time to recharge is trickier than on a reg too. BUT, you WILL own it FOREVER if you like. The simplicity is damn near fail-proof, no circuitry to blow, etc. Every Vapocalypse kit should have one.

That said, a good regulated, with ramp feature, will hit pretty much as hard, and consistently through the entire life of the battery. Just the nature of the electronics. I still use, and love my mechs. My primary draw is size, they are only slightly larger than the batts they hold, generally. No electronics hogging up space. And dropping one is usually no harm no foul, from a function perspective.

I don't know if you are looking strictly for a TUBE mod or not, but 101vapes is having a blowout sale. Couple nice tubes left, and they also have the dual 18650 Noisy Cricket, which has been VERY well reviewed. Only as big as the two batts. Just make sure you are using REALLY good batts, in a mech. For the cricket, I'd suggest LG HG2's for sane builds, and the 30amp Sony VTC4's if you are going to get crazy and want super low builds for that "smack your bitch up" hard hitting. ;)

https://101vape.com/30-mechanical-mods
 

EquivalentExchange

Member For 3 Years
Well, mechs are unto themselves, really. You get great punch from a well built, nearly lossless mech with fresh batts. Important to know that as the batts taper, they get weaker and weaker until they are gone. KNOWING when it is time to recharge is trickier than on a reg too. BUT, you WILL own it FOREVER if you like. The simplicity is damn near fail-proof, no circuitry to blow, etc. Every Vapocalypse kit should have one.

That said, a good regulated, with ramp feature, will hit pretty much as hard, and consistently through the entire life of the battery. Just the nature of the electronics. I still use, and love my mechs. My primary draw is size, they are only slightly larger than the batts they hold, generally. No electronics hogging up space. And dropping one is usually no harm no foul, from a function perspective.

I don't know if you are looking strictly for a TUBE mod or not, but 101vapes is having a blowout sale. Couple nice tubes left, and they also have the dual 18650 Noisy Cricket, which has been VERY well reviewed. Only as big as the two batts. Just make sure you are using REALLY good batts, in a mech. For the cricket, I'd suggest LG HG2's for sane builds, and the 30amp Sony VTC4's if you are going to get crazy and want super low builds for that "smack your bitch up" hard hitting. ;)

https://101vape.com/30-mechanical-mods

I'm currently only really interested in tube mech mods atm, however Ive used some mech mods that were box's and they hit like a cannon. So I'll be keeping that Noisy Cricket in mind. I also sent that link to my roommate, those are some pretty crazy discounts thanks for passing that along! For the LG HG2's, I saw a disclosure when googling them like

"These are high capacity and high discharge current batteries. If mishandled/mistreated, they can cause you SERIOUS INJURY. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK"

Im assuming those aren't for use in normal mods, as it would be too much? Do these require any special care? Im assuming they're really strong, which is awesome and I've been looking for good, long lasting batteries but I've got mad ADHD and the last thing I want is to not be focused on what Im doing and have that thing blow or something. I know I sound a bit like a worry wort, but with all the mechanical things that go into these, and me not being very tech savvy, I want to ensure Im using everything right. haha Thanks again for all the assistance, this is all extremely helpful.
 

Moueix

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I'm currently only really interested in tube mech mods atm, however Ive used some mech mods that were box's and they hit like a cannon. So I'll be keeping that Noisy Cricket in mind. I also sent that link to my roommate, those are some pretty crazy discounts thanks for passing that along! For the LG HG2's, I saw a disclosure when googling them like

"These are high capacity and high discharge current batteries. If mishandled/mistreated, they can cause you SERIOUS INJURY. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK"

Im assuming those aren't for use in normal mods, as it would be too much? Do these require any special care? Im assuming they're really strong, which is awesome and I've been looking for good, long lasting batteries but I've got mad ADHD and the last thing I want is to not be focused on what Im doing and have that thing blow or something. I know I sound a bit like a worry wort, but with all the mechanical things that go into these, and me not being very tech savvy, I want to ensure Im using everything right. haha Thanks again for all the assistance, this is all extremely helpful.

EVERY battery should carry that warning, and the LG HG2's are DEFINITELY among THE safest out there! Ultra premium build, quality and consistency. They are also 3000mAh , which is about as much as any 18650 presently holds, and 20amp max continuous discharge rated. FABULOUS batteries! They are all I run any more in my regulated mods! That good! I use the 30amp Sony VTC4's in my mechs, just for the extra 10amp overhead protection, but they are only 2000mAh, so 1/3 less life than the LG HG2's.

If you are going to run mechs, get to know how to use the Steam Engine "Ohms Law" calculator. You input the ohms of your build, and the volts (use 4.2, which is what a fresh battery starts at) and it will tell you the amps that you will be drawing. It's here:

http://www.steam-engine.org/

Be safe, and have fun! If you are building your own coils, the coil wrapping calculator is the SHIZ!! :)
Please let me know if you need any help understanding how to use it. It's what I'm here for! ;)
 

Light seeker

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hmmm. Mech mods safety is in direct correlation to the user's knowledge. And it appears you may need more research & understanding of basic electronics and batteries. Please understand, no disrespect here.

All 18650s batteries can cause serious injury when mishandled/mistreated.
 

EquivalentExchange

Member For 3 Years
hmmm. Mech mods safety is in direct correlation to the user's knowledge. And it appears you may need more research & understanding of basic electronics and batteries. Please understand, no disrespect here.

All 18650s batteries can cause serious injury when mishandled/mistreated.

Non-taken, haha. I'm definitely pretty novice when it comes to the electronics and mechanical engineering of these devices. I think they're awesome and would love to own one, but I want to ensure Im doing everything right so I definitely appreciate the honesty. I know the biggest thing is ensuring your batteries aren't damaged, and Ive gotten cases for mine to ensure they stay safe when not in use. However as far as the do's and don'ts of mech mods, that I couldn't have less a clue about at the time.
 

EquivalentExchange

Member For 3 Years
EVERY battery should carry that warning, and the LG HG2's are DEFINITELY among THE safest out there! Ultra premium build, quality and consistency. They are also 3000mAh , which is about as much as any 18650 presently holds, and 20amp max continuous discharge rated. FABULOUS batteries! They are all I run any more in my regulated mods! That good! I use the 30amp Sony VTC4's in my mechs, just for the extra 10amp overhead protection, but they are only 2000mAh, so 1/3 less life than the LG HG2's.

If you are going to run mechs, get to know how to use the Steam Engine "Ohms Law" calculator. You input the ohms of your build, and the volts (use 4.2, which is what a fresh battery starts at) and it will tell you the amps that you will be drawing. It's here:

http://www.steam-engine.org/

Be safe, and have fun! If you are building your own coils, the coil wrapping calculator is the SHIZ!! :)
Please let me know if you need any help understanding how to use it. It's what I'm here for! ;)

Thats really good to know as Ive been looking for a good set of batteries that really stand up to the watts Im running and can keep me vaping a little longer without having to charge as often. Good to know thats a common disclaimer.

As far as the calculators go, thats something I've been interested in as well. I bought a Coil Master kit that includes just about everything Id need to build and Ive only built my own coils the last 2-3 times, but Ive gotten it down pretty well. However it did come with something I screw my RDA into and it will check the coil strength, Im guessing. I was sure it helps with creating good coils to optimize your RDA's potential, however I didn't know where to really start. The whole Ohm thing was kinda lost on me, tbh. Im very interested in getting the most out of my RDA though, planning to upgrade soon to an Authentic RDA here shortly, been looking at the Phenotype L by Anarchist and Aria so I would love to know what direction to take to make sure Im building my coils well. Love me some clouds.
 

Moueix

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Thats really good to know as Ive been looking for a good set of batteries that really stand up to the watts Im running and can keep me vaping a little longer without having to charge as often. Good to know thats a common disclaimer.

As far as the calculators go, thats something I've been interested in as well. I bought a Coil Master kit that includes just about everything Id need to build and Ive only built my own coils the last 2-3 times, but Ive gotten it down pretty well. However it did come with something I screw my RDA into and it will check the coil strength, Im guessing. I was sure it helps with creating good coils to optimize your RDA's potential, however I didn't know where to really start. The whole Ohm thing was kinda lost on me, tbh. Im very interested in getting the most out of my RDA though, planning to upgrade soon to an Authentic RDA here shortly, been looking at the Phenotype L by Anarchist and Aria so I would love to know what direction to take to make sure Im building my coils well. Love me some clouds.

I know what you mean by "coil strength" but it always helps to use the right terms, so nobody gets confused. It checks coil RESISTANCE. You can pretty much KNOW in advance what the resistance will be, by using the calculator. The things you need to know, is what gauge your wire is. Then, how many ohms OR how many wraps you want to make. using ANY of those two (gauge, wraps, ohms) the calculator will TELL you the third. You also want to put in your "leg length", that is the amount of wire that is NOT part of the coil, that contacts the screws in the posts. They don't really HEAT much (unless you have a hot leg) but they DO add to the resistance calc.

The HIGHER the gauge of wire, the MORE resistance that a same wrap coil will have. So a 32 gauge wire will produce a HIGHER resistance wire with 7 wraps, than a 28 gauge wire.
The BENEFIT of higher gauge wire, is there is less mass, so they heat and cool MUCH more quickly. I love that, personally. AND since it is thinner, it makes for a narrower coil than a lower gauge wire of the same number of wraps. Great for tight places. BUT, the trade off, is it is more fragile. You are more likely to damage them when you rewick them. I personally use 30 and 32, but a lot of peeps prefer 28, 26, or even 24 because they are much stronger.

Mechs are NOTHING more than a switch. The button completes the circuit to the atomizer coil, That is IT. If everything else (battery, 510 connector, center pin on atomizer, coil, and tight screws on the coil) is correct, you have vapor. In THAT sense, mechs are MUCH easier to use than the often confusing menu's, and Temp Control settings, etc., of a regulated. You JUST have to make sure you understand ohms law, battery safety, and check ALL of your connections carefully. Millions of us successfully quit smoking with them, long before regulated came along. And mostly, without incident, so it IS completely doable if you want. Just make sure you ask ANY questions, and TEST your atomizer on a regulated or a tester, for ohms, and no shorts, BEFORE you mount it on that mech and ever hit the fire button. If you have a short or too low of a build, it literally takes a couple second before that battery starts to self destruct! The first thing that happens, and we're talking microseconds, is the case gets hot, and begins to melt the wrapper.. Once it gets hot enough, the battery will begin to vent gasses from the destruction of the materials. THOSE gasses are very flammable, so the chance for flames is very high. If your mech does NOT have enough vent holes, pressure will build in the tube, to the point of failure, and this we know as a Pipe Bomb. So I think you can see why we are all so serious about it.

Well, that should get ya started. ;)
 

Light seeker

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Theres 4 different variables you need to master to use any mech mod and build coils: voltage, amperage, resistance, and watts.Knowing any 2 of these varriables, the other 2 can be found mathematically using ohms law. For instance, a 4Volt battery with a 0.5 ohm coil using ohms law:
4volts / 0.5 ohms = 8 amps (the absolute minimum your battery should be rated)
8 amps X 4 volts = 32 watts
So a 0.5 ohm coil with a 4volt battery will produce 32 watts in a mech mod.

Coil master jigs make pretty looking coils, but theres more than just how they look. A coil should be built to a desired resistance to give you the desired wattage in your mech mod, and wire material, number of wraps, size of the wire, and inside diameter of the coil come into play. And can all be mathematically modeled using steam-engine.org
 

Moueix

Shenanigannery Jedi. Welcome New Refugee's!
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Member For 4 Years
Theres 4 different variables you need to master to use any mech mod and build coils: voltage, amperage, resistance, and watts.Knowing any 2 of these varriables, the other 2 can be found mathematically using ohms law. For instance, a 4Volt battery with a 0.5 ohm coil using ohms law:
4volts / 0.5 ohms = 8 amps (the absolute minimum your battery should be rated)
8 amps X 4 volts = 32 watts
So a 0.5 ohm coil with a 4volt battery will produce 32 watts in a mech mod.

Coil master jigs make pretty looking coils, but theres more than just how they look. A coil should be built to a desired resistance to give you the desired wattage in your mech mod, and wire material, number of wraps, size of the wire, and inside diameter of the coil come into play. And can all be mathematically modeled using steam-engine.org

This is true, but for a beginner, 4.2volts should be considered a constant. It is the maximum of an 18XXX batt, and what it is coming out of a charger. From a safety perspective, I think 4.2 should just always be assumed. It drops to 4.0 by the 2nd hit, but then slooooowly tapers to the point of needing recharging, which is considered to be 3.2, but 3.4 will make the battery last MUCH longer in number of cycles it can take.
 

Light seeker

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This is true, but for a beginner, 4.2volts should be considered a constant. It is the maximum of an 18XXX batt, and what it is coming out of a charger. From a safety perspective, I think 4.2 should just always be assumed. It drops to 4.0 by the 2nd hit, but then slooooowly tapers to the point of needing recharging, which is considered to be 3.2, but 3.4 will make the battery last MUCH longer in number of cycles it can take.
Absolutely!!!
I used 4 as a simple example, but you are right on!
 

Light seeker

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Member For 4 Years
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And as far as the Fuhatten clone, the original manafacturer was Amerivape, who is out of business. But their Fuhatten mod was very popular, and lives on perpetually in the clone world. Theres some very good clones from China, unfortunately some bad ones too. Its wise to google for reviews any mod or atty, and search the forums. This has saved me countless bad buying decisions, while confirming other good purchases. IMHO, the fuhatten looks okay for a clone mod .... the only concern I would have with it is the 510 connector is brass. Brass is an excellent electrical conductor, important in a mech mod, but very soft metal that youre screwing your atty on to. I've had issues on mods with brass 510 connectors stripping the threads .... but this is usually after i clumsily drop it. D'oh.
 

vap3r

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The Aria Oros V2 is currently on sale for $69.99. Authentic. Made in the USA.
 

EquivalentExchange

Member For 3 Years
I really like the Zombi Style mod. I have black RDAs and want something black to go with it. However I can't find a good place to buy the Zombi Style mod. Anyone have any idea where I might be able to find it or another good one similar to it.
 

EquivalentExchange

Member For 3 Years
I know the Vanquish mod I have offers a zombie green and red mech mod
Those are really sick but out of my budget at the moment. I'm really hoping to find a seller for the Zombi Style mech mod I'm black. I like the skull on the button and the ritual engravings. Plus I really dig the sleek black. Just haven't really found much like it though.
 

vap3r

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If you are going to go with a direct-to-battery (hybrid-style) mod like the Zombi, you might as well look for one which does not feature a top cap.
 

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