Thats really good to know as Ive been looking for a good set of batteries that really stand up to the watts Im running and can keep me vaping a little longer without having to charge as often. Good to know thats a common disclaimer.
As far as the calculators go, thats something I've been interested in as well. I bought a Coil Master kit that includes just about everything Id need to build and Ive only built my own coils the last 2-3 times, but Ive gotten it down pretty well. However it did come with something I screw my RDA into and it will check the coil strength, Im guessing. I was sure it helps with creating good coils to optimize your RDA's potential, however I didn't know where to really start. The whole Ohm thing was kinda lost on me, tbh. Im very interested in getting the most out of my RDA though, planning to upgrade soon to an Authentic RDA here shortly, been looking at the Phenotype L by Anarchist and Aria so I would love to know what direction to take to make sure Im building my coils well. Love me some clouds.
I know what you mean by "coil strength" but it always helps to use the right terms, so nobody gets confused. It checks coil RESISTANCE. You can pretty much KNOW in advance what the resistance will be, by using the calculator. The things you need to know, is what gauge your wire is. Then, how many ohms OR how many wraps you want to make. using ANY of those two (gauge, wraps, ohms) the calculator will TELL you the third. You also want to put in your "leg length", that is the amount of wire that is NOT part of the coil, that contacts the screws in the posts. They don't really HEAT much (unless you have a hot leg) but they DO add to the resistance calc.
The HIGHER the gauge of wire, the MORE resistance that a same wrap coil will have. So a 32 gauge wire will produce a HIGHER resistance wire with 7 wraps, than a 28 gauge wire.
The BENEFIT of higher gauge wire, is there is less mass, so they heat and cool MUCH more quickly. I love that, personally. AND since it is thinner, it makes for a narrower coil than a lower gauge wire of the same number of wraps. Great for tight places. BUT, the trade off, is it is more fragile. You are more likely to damage them when you rewick them. I personally use 30 and 32, but a lot of peeps prefer 28, 26, or even 24 because they are much stronger.
Mechs are NOTHING more than a switch. The button completes the circuit to the atomizer coil, That is IT. If everything else (battery, 510 connector, center pin on atomizer, coil, and tight screws on the coil) is correct, you have vapor. In THAT sense, mechs are MUCH easier to use than the often confusing menu's, and Temp Control settings, etc., of a regulated. You JUST have to make sure you understand ohms law, battery safety, and check ALL of your connections carefully. Millions of us successfully quit smoking with them, long before regulated came along. And mostly, without incident, so it IS completely doable if you want. Just make sure you ask ANY questions, and TEST your atomizer on a regulated or a tester, for ohms, and no shorts, BEFORE you mount it on that mech and ever hit the fire button. If you have a short or too low of a build, it literally takes a couple second before that battery starts to self destruct! The first thing that happens, and we're talking microseconds, is the case gets hot, and begins to melt the wrapper.. Once it gets hot enough, the battery will begin to vent gasses from the destruction of the materials. THOSE gasses are very flammable, so the chance for flames is very high. If your mech does NOT have enough vent holes, pressure will build in the tube, to the point of failure, and this we know as a Pipe Bomb. So I think you can see why we are all so serious about it.
Well, that should get ya started.
