roxynoodle
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The only time I get a pop is when it's been sitting all night. I leave the afc/jfc wide open.
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The BOREAS RTA by Augvape and Roxy
- Thread starter VapeRN
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JuicyLucy
My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
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Dam, I'm going to have to make my first ever 0 nic juice so I can get some rest.
I keep vaping the Boreas just because it tastes good and even at 3 mg I'm getting hopped up
I keep vaping the Boreas just because it tastes good and even at 3 mg I'm getting hopped up
Why not make your own thread about wicking?
With all the helpful folks here I'd bet you'll have it down-pat in no-time, especially when folks post good videos.
Perfection ej...simple, a great combination that just works...!
VAPE IT
Mikhail Naumov
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In about, four hours my black, notched top cap Boreas will be in the PO Box.
And so it was written.
And so it was written.
Hahaha, I'm having the exact same issue. Still want a bit of nic, so I'm likely going to have to make some 1.5mg/ml batches of juice! I have 250ml of 3mg/ml to go through still ... I have no doubt the Boreas will help me use that up though!
thanks fq .
the resistance of the coil mesures 1 ohm on another device and 1.1 ohm on the stand alone ohm meter .
did not know the chip is a yihi have an yihi sx350 in one of my home brew mods and its been very reliable.
so the ohms reading in the temp setting is wrong . must have set it or lock it some how .
with tc for now to many things to wrap my pee brains around and takes me out of my ohms law comfort zone .lol
will have toget some ss wire maybe 316 and do it it right way. thanks for the tips .
Yeah, SS is my preference and you can run it in power mode if you don't like TC.
You do have to lock the resistance by pressing up and down at the same time with a room temperature attomizer on top... but not with kanthal Also most mods won't TC with a resistance as high as 1 ohm. Build to ~0.3 (26g SS) and you are well within the safety range with good batteries. Yihi will safely fire down to 0.05 ohms.
You do have to lock the resistance by pressing up and down at the same time with a room temperature attomizer on top... but not with kanthal
Also most mods won't TC with a resistance as high as 1 ohm. Build to ~0.3 (26g SS) and you are well within the safety range with good batteries. Yihi will safely fire down to 0.05 ohms.
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well I know its in my head anything that low scares me .but to many peps doing it safely .Yeah, SS is my preference and you can run it in power mode if you don't like TC.
You do have to lock the resistance by pressing up and down at the same time with a room temperature attomizer on top... but not with kanthal
been around ohms law a long time with ham radio recievers transmitters and amplifiers . a lot of vacuum tube stuff to.
so looking at that small battery at 4 or so volts ...and a coil at .05 or even .5 looks more like a dead short to me lol
must learn to trust the chips doing their job . have to study how it controls temp to be more comfortable with it.
modern electronics are sure marvels .
roxynoodle
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I had to get over it, too. I still have some "mech mentality"
But, this isn't a single battery tube mech. I'm using dual and tri battery regulated mods now. I'm well within safety limits with the attys I'm running.
Yep, a controlled dead short is just about what it is.
If you built ham radios you know your shit and should be safer than most people that are building coils.
Today's lithium cells are not yesterday's nicd's, they can put out an amazing flow of power and not break a sweat.
...you can do it
I wouldnt say dead short...well that depends on how many batteries your running and what type of batteries...
I wanted a lipo box for a awhile now as you can use a pot and can drop a 14.8V lipo in and have a amp headway of over 400a CD (depending on lipo used)...
I wanted a lipo box for a awhile now as you can use a pot and can drop a 14.8V lipo in and have a amp headway of over 400a CD (depending on lipo used)...
sure believe you guys . all my home build mods are dual 18650 mostly parallel with different regulators like dna 20 and 30 and my favored is with a sx350 so no temp control . another which works well is in series with a buck convertor and has on flaw tho...it draws some small current so I have to incorporate a switch in it . ever so slowly drains the batteries to below safe !I had to get over it, too. I still have some "mech mentality"
lately I fell in love with the vtc miny and vaping at 14 watts its perfect ..nice and small and it will do tc .
the 3 battery version in series model 200 scares me to so I traded it for another vtc mini .
which I got originaly for the chip . the hole mod costs is halv what a decent chip is . now I don't have the desire to butcher one up.
so my go to rite now vtc minie boreas with silicone insert kanthal a1 coil 2.5 mm at around 1.2 to 1.4 ohms .14 watts
will the merlin change that ? we will see .
talking about nicads had one I used for an aircraft radio in my sailplane it was a wet cell NiCad .Yep, a controlled dead short is just about what it is.
If you built ham radios you know your shit and should be safer than most people that are building coils.
Today's lithium cells are not yesterday's nicd's, they can put out an amazing flow of power and not break a sweat.
...you can do it
and then lipos whow ! they can sure draw some amps have them in 2 mods ..just to large for my taste .
mike petro called it his weekender (on an other channel )it lasts me all week lol.
jesSo the BOREAS IS SITTING ON THE VTC?
Ewwww
but I got to say ..that little bit of overhang might border you ?
not me .
raymo
not clear what you are saying ..you want to use a pot ..rheostat as a voltage dropping device ?
Well no, use it to gauge the amount of heat I like from my build....It is a voltage splitter but it wouldnt be used as a "voltage cut" or to reduce to a normal 4.2V, Im sorry I wasnt clear on that....
I thought you going to take the series batteries at 14 or so volts and put a variable resistor in series to drop the voltage to the coil .
that would sure take a hefty wire wound pot to drop all that power and waste it .
I s
till havent made my mind up as to what I want to do...since the HOG died I now need to make a box to take up that role also...I may end up making 2 different boxes as it would be safer then something that can switch it up, some of these builds Im afraid of getting welded connections..
Need to get home and make a clapton... the same build that works well in flavor chaser drippers and my clt cloud chucker alike is anemic in the boreas.
It still produces great vape and flavor but you can tell that this needs a much more substantial coil in there to get it running at peak performance.
Watching the clock... is it 1:00 yet?
It still produces great vape and flavor but you can tell that this needs a much more substantial coil in there to get it running at peak performance.
Watching the clock... is it 1:00 yet?
@raymo2u
Can or can't TC SS claptons?
Can but not well? Or can't at all?
Just going to use kanthal today since I have just about every gauge but curious about SS claptons.
Can or can't TC SS claptons?
Can but not well? Or can't at all?
Just going to use kanthal today since I have just about every gauge but curious about SS claptons.
I was able to run Fused Clapton SS coils just fine. Now, how accurate it was, well I don't know, but they ran and did cut off (took a long 200w/540F pull and it was bouncing on and off at the end).
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Mikhail Naumov
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Okay so, I got my black, notched Boreas. I dig it, but the notches are in two sets of three. The notches don't wrap around the entire top cap, there's three on each side and then a blank area where it looks like the old one. I'm a bit confused why they did this, but I still like it, makes the top cap easier to remove. I wish they added them to the bottom cap as well.
Mikhail Naumov
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I have framed staples in the newest Boreas, running it at 230 watts and it's absolutely fucking wrecking it.
I was surprised to see it not uniform around the entire cap, would have preferred it all the way around but whatever.
I'm not sure they are really needed at least with the black coating, I have no issue disassembling top (holding the smooth part) or bottom and I think the OG smooth cap would look better... but again... whatever. It's a great tank.
I also have vice grip fingers from working on cars and bikes since I was a youngster so maybe the notches are useful to the majority.
Huh, so the SS center wire gave the resistance change for TC and the kanthal outer wrap didn't affect it in any obvious way? Interesting.
Well I haven't tried stripping off the outer wrap and doing comparisons and all that jazz. So again I haven't looked into the accuracy of it or any of the sciency stuff, just the fact that it does work. It makes sense why it'd work though considering the core wires determine the resistance almost exclusively (the difference isn't something our mods are going to be able to distinguish, parallel coils or fused clapton the mod doesn't know the difference).
Be warned, they'll come out quite low resistance, mine ended up at .08Ω as dual coils. Wish I had some 28g SS but that'll wait till I'm ready to do the run through and redo coils for my mods.Makes sense... 26g SS and thinnest kanthal I can find in the kanthal spool graveyard it is
Mikhail Naumov
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I made some SS316L fused claptons about a week ago. Two pieces of 24ga 316L with 32ga 316L. SS Claptons are my favorite, because you get a full clapton experience without the ramp up time.
Still will not fire builds below .1 ohm
Mikhail Naumov
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It fires down to 0.05 in TC I believe. It may be lower, but I know it fires under .1 in TC.
I have started filling it through the bottom as well. Can get the tank filled to the brim with juice
Power mode NO
TC MODE yes HOPEFULLY
Correct I should have been more detailed in my response
I meant power mode only
Are they clones out, I bought one off ebay for 38 dollars, registered the code on the site and it said it had been checked one time before. When I take the drip tip off, the metal part that is screws in is stuck on the top of the tank only the plastic delrin came out, is this normal?
Only $39.99 at SubTank Supply and you would have gotten Brand New Original BOREAS!
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Yup, there is a clone, what is it called, oh yes, it's the Aromamizer Supreme ; )
Mikhail Naumov
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Please don't go there, just, don't. Enough drama has happened already over this topic. The Aromamizer V1 and its RDTA design predates the Boreas by months, and the Supreme and Boreas are two entirely different tanks. They have nothing to do with eachother. Neither are clones, but you have to give props to Steamcrave because the original RDTA style design both use was their idea.
I know there's a clone of the Supreme being sold for like $20, but I highly doubt the Boreas has been cloned. Somebody probably just already used the code, it's worth something it said it had ALREADY been entered instead of it doesn't exist.
The clone industry is dying because manufacturers learned that as long as they were releasing products that were $65+, it would get cloned and be sold for $15. Now 90% of Authentics are under $40. In a year I don't think you'll even see clones anymore. There's no reason paying $5 less for something of lower quality when the authentic, better made product is $5 more.
I know there's a clone of the Supreme being sold for like $20, but I highly doubt the Boreas has been cloned. Somebody probably just already used the code, it's worth something it said it had ALREADY been entered instead of it doesn't exist.
The clone industry is dying because manufacturers learned that as long as they were releasing products that were $65+, it would get cloned and be sold for $15. Now 90% of Authentics are under $40. In a year I don't think you'll even see clones anymore. There's no reason paying $5 less for something of lower quality when the authentic, better made product is $5 more.