HCIGAR VT133/VT167 Dual 18650 DNA200/250

[Jim_MDP]

comparative shot of all - have a backup of each other than the green brick
sdna200/vsflask133, vt200 Cloudmaker(greenbrick), smydna

You want to take another stab at that?

Or hire a ghostwriter?

And damn, that CM is massive... I had no idea.

 

[f1r3b1rd]

You got license to fly that thing? Use it to see if any neighbors left their mods out by the BBQ?

yeah, I have a license, fought with the drone flyers against the faa. As soon as we lost that, the fda kicked up against us.
That's one of 3 camera drones I have. I get some great footage at the beach

You want to take another stab at that?

Or hire a ghostwriter?

And damn, that CM is massive... I had no idea.

I need a damn secretary. The cm is more comfortable to hold than it looks, but as big as that damn thing is, I cant fit anything bigger than a 1300mah battery in it.

 

["11"]

On the off-chance anyone gets the LG HD2C 2100 mah batts, Liion mentions they are underrated... purportedly a 20A battery that performs more like a 25-30A and a good replacement for Sony VTC4 (and in some cases exceeds them per Liion). Well they must be underrated b/c I chose 2100 mah as the setting in Escribe and the battery meter still isn't tracking them correctly. I keep thinking it's me but been several cycles now and every time they have way more juice than the batt meter indicates. Last night I let the meter go down to about 1/4 (which I never do normally but wanted to see what the volts would be in the charger). Stuck them in the XTAR VP1 this morning and they had 3.74v left! Went into Escribe and selected 2500 mah to see if it tracks better, but am a little concerned about "overrating" the batts as I am not sure if this affects how the mod pulls power and if it could be dangerous. I am no battery expert, just self-educated with the various FAQs and guides in the vaping community. I will certainly keep a close eye on whether they get warm. But I am curious to see how the battery meter behaves now.

Is there a reason (i.e. benefit) that the Evolv chip doesn't read batteries in the normal way the YiHi chips read them? Is it b/c the DNA200 is designed for Lipos principally?

 

[f1r3b1rd]

On the off-chance anyone gets the LG HD2C 2100 mah batts, Liion mentions they are underrated... purportedly a 20A battery that performs more like a 25-30A and a good replacement for Sony VTC4 (and in some cases exceeds them per Liion). Well they must be underrated b/c I chose 2100 mah as the setting in Escribe and the battery meter still isn't tracking them correctly. I keep thinking it's me but been several cycles now and every time they have way more juice than the batt meter indicates. Last night I let the meter go down to about 1/4 (which I never do normally but wanted to see what the volts would be in the charger). Stuck them in the XTAR VP1 this morning and they had 3.74v left! Went into Escribe and selected 2500 mah to see if it tracks better, but am a little concerned about "overrating" the batts as I am not sure if this affects how the mod pulls power and if it could be dangerous. I am no battery expert, just self-educated with the various FAQs and guides in the vaping community. I will certainly keep a close eye on whether they get warm. But I am curious to see how the battery meter behaves now.

Is there a reason (i.e. benefit) that the Evolv chip doesn't read batteries in the normal way the YiHi chips read them? Is it b/c the DNA200 is designed for Lipos principally?

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...a-2200mah-battery-better-than-the-hd2.735554/

from mooch:

Bottom Line
This is a great 25A continuous, 2200mAh battery. The HD2C is a better performer than the HD2 due to its higher voltage during discharge and its longer running time. It equals the Aspire 1800mAh's starting pulse voltage and running temperature and runs about 15% longer than the Aspire. The HD2C's voltage drops below the Aspire's in the middle and end of a pulsed discharge though. The HD2C can be pulsed at up to about 50A before its voltage gets uselessly low.

 

["11"]

The HD2C can be pulsed at up to about 50A before its voltage gets uselessly low.

Unfortunately I am not educated enough to translate that into real life use. I am vaping at 40w / 470F ??

 

[f1r3b1rd]

he is basically saying its a great battery
the reality is, if youre using a mechanical mod, this is a battery I would recommend alongside the sony vtc4- probably this, because its not as heavily counterfeited.

but, if youre using a reguiated mod, you don't need a battery with this much current and shorter run time.
you are better off with a something like a lg browns or sony vtc6 or Samsung 30q- 20A and 3000mah

for regulated you really want around 20a and a run time at 2500mah or more

unregulated, you are good with 20a, but want to build accordingly. personally I build around 0.13-0.15 on my mechmods so I look for 25a or higher.

 

["11"]

he is basically saying its a great battery
the reality is, if youre using a mechanical mod, this is a battery I would recommend alongside the sony vtc4- probably this, because its not as heavily counterfeited.

but, if youre using a reguiated mod, you don't need a battery with this much current and shorter run time.
you are better off with a something like a lg browns or sony vtc6 or Samsung 30q- 20A and 3000mah

for regulated you really want around 20a and a run time at 2500mah or more

unregulated, you are good with 20a, but want to build accordingly. personally I build around 0.13-0.15 on my mechmods so I look for 25a or higher.

Thanks so much for explaining that. OK, then the LG HG2... the Samsung 30q says it's 15A on Liion? I had the Samsung 25Rs previously but wasn't that impressed with them, so was looking to try something else. (Actually the best batts I ever had were genuine EFEST 3000mahs but that was back when I was using a single batt in the tube-shaped Vamo.)

EDIT: I don't use a mech mod. Had one once... prefer regulated.

 

[f1r3b1rd]

Thanks so much for explaining that. OK, then the LG HG2... the Samsung 30q says it's 15A on Liion? I had the Samsung 25Rs previously but wasn't that impressed with them, so was looking to try something else. (Actually the best batts I ever had were genuine EFEST 3000mahs but that was back when I was using a single batt in the tube-shaped Vamo.)

EDIT: I don't use a mech mod. Had one once... prefer regulated.

efest are b grade rewraps.... not a fan but I have used them in regulate mods.
and the 30q is rated at 20a and according to the bench test its not much different than the lg brown.
- my personal feeling is to go with the LG but numbers don't lie
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...t-results-a-great-20a-3000mah-battery.727190/

 

["11"]

BTW I still don't understand why the VT133 isn't tracking the HD2Cs correctly. And is it a bad idea to enter 2500mah as the rating to see if it makes a diff, since entering 2100mah didn't work?

 

[f1r3b1rd]

BTW I still don't understand why the VT133 isn't tracking the HD2Cs correctly. And is it a bad idea to enter 2500mah as the rating to see if it makes a diff, since entering 2100mah didn't work?

I would stick with keeping the rating as accurate to the battery as you can.

here is a good article comparing the top 3000mah batteries.
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...-vs-samsung-30q-vs-sony-vtc6-shootout.757553/

 

[Wingsfan0310]

On the off-chance anyone gets the LG HD2C 2100 mah batts, Liion mentions they are underrated... purportedly a 20A battery that performs more like a 25-30A and a good replacement for Sony VTC4 (and in some cases exceeds them per Liion). Well they must be underrated b/c I chose 2100 mah as the setting in Escribe and the battery meter still isn't tracking them correctly. I keep thinking it's me but been several cycles now and every time they have way more juice than the batt meter indicates. Last night I let the meter go down to about 1/4 (which I never do normally but wanted to see what the volts would be in the charger). Stuck them in the XTAR VP1 this morning and they had 3.74v left! Went into Escribe and selected 2500 mah to see if it tracks better, but am a little concerned about "overrating" the batts as I am not sure if this affects how the mod pulls power and if it could be dangerous. I am no battery expert, just self-educated with the various FAQs and guides in the vaping community. I will certainly keep a close eye on whether they get warm. But I am curious to see how the battery meter behaves now.

Is there a reason (i.e. benefit) that the Evolv chip doesn't read batteries in the normal way the YiHi chips read them? Is it b/c the DNA200 is designed for Lipos principally?

Here's the answer as I see it:
1. Evolv has a hard cutoff at ~2.7v. It will stop your mod from firing when the cells reach that voltage.
2. On a DNA200 you also have a soft cutoff that you can set. It's in the mod tab. If you are uncomfortable with your batteries being drained that low, set it higher. I have mine set to 2.8v. Battery manufactures test their cells down to 2.5v so it's not dangerous to take them down to 2.7-2.8v.
3. On most other mods, the cutoff is set by the maker - some as high as 3.5-3.6v. Why, I have no idea.
4. Some think you will get more cycles if you only drain them to say 3.5v. My answer to that is you better because you will be charging more often than someone who takes them down to 3.0v.
5. I agree with Firebird - I use 20amp cells in my regulated mods with no issue.
6. If you have no battery bar left and your cells are still firing, increase your watt hours. If you have battery bar left and the mod gives you the weak battery warning, decrease your watt hours.

Cheers,
Steve

 

["11"]

[...] the 30q is rated at 20a and according to the bench test its not much different than the lg brown. - my personal feeling is to go with the LG but numbers don't lie
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...t-results-a-great-20a-3000mah-battery.727190/

Much appreciated, f1r3b1rd!

 

["11"]

Here's the answer as I see it:
1. Evolv has a hard cutoff at ~2.7v. It will stop your mod from firing when the cells reach that voltage.
2. On a DNA200 you also have a soft cutoff that you can set. It's in the mod tab. If you are uncomfortable with your batteries being drained that low, set it higher. I have mine set to 2.8v. Battery manufactures test their cells down to 2.5v so it's not dangerous to take them down to 2.7-2.8v.
3. On most other mods, the cutoff is set by the maker - some as high as 3.5-3.6v. Why, I have no idea.
4. Some think you will get more cycles if you only drain them to say 3.5v. My answer to that is you better because you will be charging more often than someone who takes them down to 3.0v.
5. I agree with Firebird - I use 20amp cells in my regulated mods with no issue.
6. If you have no battery bar left and your cells are still firing, increase your watt hours. If you have battery bar left and the mod gives you the weak battery warning, decrease your watt hours.

Cheers,
Steve

Thanks so much, Steve. I always heard you should recycle at 3.6 but I just as soon go longer if it's not bad practice. Charging more often is a PITA. (The Vamo used to cut off at 3.5 IIRC but that was a few years back.) This is great that Escribe has a cutoff. Will go do that now and choose 2.8v, set the mah hours back to the battery rating, and see what happens. If needed, will refer to your point #6.

So does the DNA200 need this extra info for 18650s b/c it's designed primarily for Lipos? Just curious.

 

[Wingsfan0310]

Thanks so much, Steve. I always heard you should recycle at 3.6 but I just as soon go longer if it's not bad practice. Charging more often is a PITA. (The Vamo used to cut off at 3.5 IIRC but that was a few years back.) This is great that Escribe has a cutoff. Will go do that now and choose 2.8v, set the mah hours back to the battery rating, and see what happens. If needed, will refer to your point #6.

So does the DNA200 need this extra info for 18650s b/c it's designed primarily for Lipos? Just curious.

Well Lipo is what you want to select when using 18650"s in a DNA200. If you want to get fancy you can load a CSV discharge profile for the batteries you are running (providing you can find one)

I'm not telling you to set your soft cutoff to 2.8v. I was saying that's what I set mine too. The way I look at is I can always pull them early to recharge if I want. But if I'm out and about I don't want my mod shutting off at 3.5v if I still have juice left. Don't want to be stranded without my vape.

I always tell people to set their soft cutoff at a voltage they feel comfortable with.

The mah rating is the capacity of your cells. Sometimes you might get a cell that for whatever reason reaches above the stated capacity. That's a bonus.

The thing you don't want to do is drain them under 2.5v.

Lastly, lets say you run at 50 watts. If you are running a dual cell mod (8.4v fully charged) and might run it down to lets say 6.0v (3.0v per cell). Then you would be worst case scenario drawing 10 amps per cell (50/6 = 8.33 and I added a little for chip inefficiency). When you buy a true 30 amp CDR cell you sacrifice capacity (mah). As the CDR goes up, the capacity goes down. What I'm trying to say is a 20 amp CDR cell is more than enough.

Cheers,
Steve

 

["11"]

I would stick with keeping the rating as accurate to the battery as you can.

here is a good article comparing the top 3000mah batteries.
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...-vs-samsung-30q-vs-sony-vtc6-shootout.757553/

Great article there... thanks for that. Think I'll try the 30Qs next!

 

[Wingsfan0310]

Great article there... thanks for that. Think I'll try the 30Qs next!

I have some (8) 30Q's in the mail. I usually use LG HG2's or Samsung 25R's if I'm really going to be pushing a mod. Everything I've read tells me 30Q's are equal to LG HG2's. I've been wanting to give the 30Q's a try for awhile now.

Cheers,
Steve

 

["11"]

Well Lipo is what you want to select when using 18650"s in a DNA200. If you want to get fancy you can load a CSV discharge profile for the batteries you are running (providing you can find one)

I'm not telling you to set your soft cutoff to 2.8v. I was saying that's what I set mine too. The way I look at is I can always pull them early to recharge if I want. But if I'm out and about I don't want my mod shutting off at 3.5v if I still have juice left. Don't want to be stranded without my vape.

I always tell people to set their soft cutoff at a voltage they feel comfortable with.

The mah rating is the capacity of your cells. Sometimes you might get a cell that for whatever reason reaches above the stated capacity. That's a bonus.

The thing you don't want to do is drain them under 2.5v.

Lastly, lets say you run at 50 watts. If you are running a dual cell mod (8.4v fully charged) and might run it down to lets say 6.0v (3.0v per cell). Then you would be worst case scenario drawing 10 amps per cell (50/6 = 8.33 and I added a little for chip inefficiency). When you buy a true 30 amp CDR cell you sacrifice capacity (mah). As the CDR goes up, the capacity goes down. What I'm trying to say is a 20 amp CDR cell is more than enough.

Cheers,
Steve

Am starting to get it. Decided when setting the cut-off to set it to 3v. Just felt comfortable there for now. The more you know the more fine tuned you can have things. The less, (like me) the better to err on the side of caution and leave margin for error or headway or whatever. I did put the mah at 2400 to try, b/c 2100 obviously doesn't work for some reason with these batts. I'll see how it goes today...

Really appreciate yours and f1r3b1rd's help! Thanks guys!!!

 

[Wingsfan0310]

Am starting to get it. Decided when setting the cut-off to set it to 3v. Just felt comfortable there for now. The more you know the more fine tuned you can have things. The less, (like me) the better to err on the side of caution and leave margin for error or headway or whatever. I did put the mah at 2400 to try, b/c 2100 obviously doesn't work for some reason with these batts. I'll see how it goes today...

Really appreciate yours and f1r3b1rd's help! Thanks guys!!!

You are welcome . If you have any more questions feel free to ask. As I always say there are a lot of very helpful and knowledgeable people in this thread . Then there's me, don't know if I'm knowledgeable or helpful but I like to ramble on

Cheers,
Steve

 

["11"]

You are welcome . If you have any more questions feel free to ask. As I always say there are a lot of very helpful and knowledgeable people in this thread . Then there's me, don't know if I'm knowledgeable or helpful but I like to ramble on

Cheers,
Steve

Much too modest!!

So having just bought a ton of vaping stuff (mod, wire, 3 tanks, batts, etc) the Qs look pretty steep at Liion. I never skimp when it comes to batts and have always bought from illum or Liion for all the years I have been vaping, but right now this deal at Gearbest looks pretty dang good. And reviews have all been positive. Would look for an authenticity comparison for the Qs to point out fakes but can't be sure the picture at Gearbest is not the authentic and not necessarily what you'd get. Anyone ever buy batts from GB?? (And yeah, I know it isn't a good practice in general but since I shouldn't be buying ANYTHING more right now and still want to get another mod....)

 

[Wingsfan0310]

Much too modest!!

So having just bought a ton of vaping stuff (mod, wire, 3 tanks, batts, etc) the Qs look pretty steep at Liion. I never skimp when it comes to batts and have always bought from illum or Liion for all the years I have been vaping, but right now this deal at Gearbest looks pretty dang good. And reviews have all been positive. Would look for an authenticity comparison for the Qs to point out fakes but can't be sure the picture at Gearbest is not the authentic and not necessarily what you'd get. Anyone ever buy batts from GB?? (And yeah, I know it isn't a good practice in general but since I shouldn't be buying ANYTHING more right now and still want to get another mod....)

Well I never post this in chat, but this one time I will. I've bought all my cells from Gearbest in the last 1.5-2 years. I've never had a problem (all have tested out as authentic). That includes (16) 25R's, (8) LG HG2's and the (8) 30Q's I have on the way. The LG HG2's came the day I was reading about all the fakes that were found (I thought to myself, isn't this great as I was reading Mooch's thread). To my relief/joy I tested every cell and they all tested out as genuine. That's the short version (trying to cut my rambling on down)

Disclaimer: I don't post this because I think people should buy their cells where they feel comfortable. I have a background in Electronics, my dad is an EE. I've grown up with this stuff all my life and know how to test cells. I'm not telling anyone they should buy their cells from any place in particular. I hope that's a good enough disclaimer!

 

["11"]

Well I never post this in chat, but this one time I will. I've bought all my cells from Gearbest in the last 1.5-2 years. I've never had a problem (all have tested out as authentic). That includes (16) 25R's, (8) LG HG2's and the (8) 30Q's I have on the way. The LG HG2's came the day I was reading about all the fakes that were found (I thought to myself, isn't this great as I was reading Mooch's thread). To my relief/joy I tested every cell and they all tested out as genuine. That's the short version (trying to cut my rambling on down)

Disclaimer: I don't post this because I think people should buy their cells where they feel comfortable. I have a background in Electronics, my dad is an EE. I've grown up with this stuff all my life and know how to test cells. I'm not telling anyone they should buy their cells from any place in particular. I hope that's a good enough disclaimer!

YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You just made my day!!!

 

[f1r3b1rd]

Well I never post this in chat, but this one time I will. I've bought all my cells from Gearbest in the last 1.5-2 years. I've never had a problem (all have tested out as authentic). That includes (16) 25R's, (8) LG HG2's and the (8) 30Q's I have on the way. The LG HG2's came the day I was reading about all the fakes that were found (I thought to myself, isn't this great as I was reading Mooch's thread). To my relief/joy I tested every cell and they all tested out as genuine. That's the short version (trying to cut my rambling on down)

Disclaimer: I don't post this because I think people should buy their cells where they feel comfortable. I have a background in Electronics, my dad is an EE. I've grown up with this stuff all my life and know how to test cells. I'm not telling anyone they should buy their cells from any place in particular. I hope that's a good enough disclaimer!

I tend to stick with rtd vapor or liionwholesale
both are highly regarded to have never sold counterfeit and the owner of liionwholesale is a well regarded member here.
I have bought from gearbest in the past, the only reason I don't buy from them anymore is....... china and patience never go well together

 

["11"]

And now I have a real WEIRDO THING!!!!!!

OK. Got these HDC2 batts couple weeks ago from Liion. Here's the deal. I have not been satisfied at all with the vape of the VT133 using these batts, but kept thinking ir was everything else. Wicking, build, etc. Clouds not dense, weak flavor... then would put the Supreme on my IPV4S and it was once again, wonderful.

So just now did this test:

1. Vaped tank on IPV4S with old Samsung 25rs near-fully charged. This mod does not have SS so vaping in Power Mode @ 26W. PERFECT vape. Flavor, dense clouds, could not be better.

2. Same tank on VT133 in TC 40W/470F with HDC2s.... weak vapor, no flavor, no good.

Thinking maybe it's the batts after all this discussion,

3. Put the HD2C batts in the IPV4S... aaaaaaaaaaand perfect vape. No diff from Samsung 25Rs.

4. Put the Samsung 25rs in the VT133 aaaaaaaaaaaand... WHOA! Burned hit @ same settings used with HDC2s! And btw, I never vape at 470F and 40w but was having to keep pushing it higher and still it was no good. **BUT** after a couple pulls got instantly weaker so had to push the temp up 10d ... with every pull...to get it to perform... and after 5 or 6 pulls it's back to weak and no good again.

And this has been my experience with the VT133... first pull good... then consecutive pulls not.So now back up to 470F/40w and it's okay but not as good as the IPV4S by a significant margin.

Now I wonder if I should revert to the old firmware and try again, but I have been struggling with this for the last several days, before the FW upgrade (I am almost sure... hard to tell when so focused about the passage of time!)

EDIT: Just realized why the VT133 got a burnt hit when I put the tank on it from the IPV4S... it wasn't cooled off and so read the resistance wrong. My bad. But still back to sq 1.

 

["11"]

I have bought from gearbest in the past, the only reason I don't buy from them anymore is....... china and patience never go well together

Luckily I am in no hurry, since I just bought batts... tho not sure what the deal is with them or what's going on here.

 

[f1r3b1rd]

the ipv uses pfm in temp mode... its a totally different way of modulating temp control than the dna.
youre also comparing power mode to tc mode, which is introducing a ton of variables not normally seen.
if the atty was warm when you switched over, it will be skewed from the start. if your punch is not set above say 8.5 youre going to have a slower ramp up.
I keep mine at 9.5 for my tanks/flavor chase drippers and 10.5-11 for my cloudier rdas

I guess that's a long way of saying...... it could be batteries it could be settings...

And now I have a real WEIRDO THING!!!!!!

OK. Got these HDC2 batts couple weeks ago from Liion. Here's the deal. I have not been satisfied at all with the vape of the VT133 using these batts, but kept thinking ir was everything else. Wicking, build, etc. Clouds not dense, weak flavor... then would put the Supreme on my IPV4S and it was once again, wonderful.

So just now did this test:

1. Vaped tank on IPV4S with old Samsung 25rs near-fully charged. This mod does not have SS so vaping in Power Mode @ 26W. PERFECT vape. Flavor, dense clouds, could not be better.

2. Same tank on VT133 in TC 40W/470F with HDC2s.... weak vapor, no flavor, no good.

Thinking maybe it's the batts after all this discussion,

3. Put the HD2C batts in the IPV4S... aaaaaaaaaaand perfect vape. No diff from Samsung 25Rs.

4. Put the Samsung 25rs in the VT133 aaaaaaaaaaaand... WHOA! Burned hit @ same settings used with HDC2s! And btw, I never vape at 470F and 40w but was having to keep pushing it higher and still it was no good. **BUT** after a couple pulls got instantly weaker so had to push the temp up 10d ... with every pull...to get it to perform... and after 5 or 6 pulls it's back to weak and no good again.

And this has been my experience with the VT133... first pull good... then consecutive pulls not.So now back up to 470F/40w and it's okay but not as good as the IPV4S by a significant margin.

Now I wonder if I should revert to the old firmware and try again, but I have been struggling with this for the last several days, before the FW upgrade (I am almost sure... hard to tell when so focused about the passage of time!)

EDIT: Just realized why the VT133 got a burnt hit when I put the tank on it from the IPV4S... it wasn't cooled off and so read the resistance wrong. My bad. But still back to sq 1.

 

["11"]

the ipv uses pfm in temp mode... its a totally different way of modulating temp control than the dna.
youre also comparing power mode to tc mode, which is introducing a ton of variables not normally seen.
if the atty was warm when you switched over, it will be skewed from the start. if your punch is not set above say 8.5 youre going to have a slower ramp up.
I keep mine at 9.5 for my tanks/flavor chase drippers and 10.5-11 for my cloudier rdas

I guess that's a long way of saying...... it could be batteries it could be settings...

Yeah I realized afterwards the tank needs to be cool before going on the VT133. And I do also realize I am comparing Power Mode to TC but no matter how you slice it, something is amiss with the VT133 (in TC) that might very well be user error. BTW punch is set to 80W for 1 second.

 

[Wingsfan0310]

You could always hook your mod up to Escribe. Click on the device monitor. Check Cell 1 and Cell 2 in the boxes on the left. Take a few puffs and see how bad your batteries are sagging and if one is sagging more than the other. Repeat this with both sets of batteries (LG and Samsung), see if you notice a difference.

PS The batteries should be of a like charge to get a meaningful comparison.. That's what I would do if I was questioning my cells

Cheers,
Steve

 

[f1r3b1rd]

Yeah I realized afterwards the tank needs to be cool before going on the VT133. And I do also realize I am comparing Power Mode to TC but no matter how you slice it, something is amiss with the VT133 (in TC) that might very well be user error. BTW punch is set to 80W for 1 second.

yeah but also the gauge matters with punch (1-12) is the intensity- how close it gets to the temp before it backs down and how fast the ramp up is.
I agree something does sound amiss, I'm just trying to trouble shoot if its settings, build, mod, programming, the battery........
so many things have to be done right to get tc to work properly. power mode is just hitting the button- lol.

 

["11"]

Thanks again guys. I just switched to power mode on the VT133 and the vape is similar though I'd still favor the IPV4S (which has the HDC2s in it, the VT133, the 25Rs and both are charged similiarly). I will do the tests Steve suggested and report back in a little bit.

 

[f1r3b1rd]

Thanks again guys. I just switched to power mode on the VT133 and the vape is similar though I'd still favor the IPV4S (which has the HDC2s in it, the VT133, the 25Rs and both are charged similiarly). I will do the tests Steve suggested and report back in a little bit.

the first thing I always check when something ..... isn't right? is all of my connection points: post hole screws,510, coil structure.
the next thing is taking the atty off and letting the atty and the mod sit for 10-15 minutes. reattach and vape

90% of the time, its one of those two.

the dna is more accurate than anything else, the price to that is that at times it can be a tad finicky

 

["11"]

the first thing I always check when something ..... isn't right? is all of my connection points: post hole screws,510, coil structure.
the next thing is taking the atty off and letting the atty and the mod sit for 10-15 minutes. reattach and vape

90% of the time, its one of those two.

the dna is more accurate than anything else, the price to that is that at times it can be a tad finicky

I totally get it. More advanced equipment requires a little know how and fine tuning.

 

["11"]

Here are screen grabs from the two tests:

http://imgur.com/a/iTpq6

PS could not get these to embed and don't know how to attach the csv's of each.

 

[Wingsfan0310]

Here are screen grabs from the two tests:

http://imgur.com/a/iTpq6

PS could not get these to embed and don't know how to attach the csv's of each.

I don't see anything funny in those. They both look ok to me. Without me having to read back to far, what is the main problem you are having with the VT133? Is it 316L in TC?

 

["11"]

the first thing I always check when something ..... isn't right? is all of my connection points: post hole screws,510, coil structure. [...] 90% of the time, its one of those two.

Agreed ... that's why I spent the last few days rebuilding coils, changing wire, re-wicking, adding distilled water then a little PG to the juice.... never occurred to me it could be the VT133. It's working, it just isn't working quite right. Vapor should be denser with more flavor. Odd!

 

["11"]

I don't see anything funny in those. They both look ok to me. Without me having to read back to far, what is the main problem you are having with the VT133? Is it 316L in TC?

Thanks Steve, they looked ok to my uneducated eye too. It just isn't delivering dense clouds and so flavor is weak too. In a word, just isn't "satisfying" IYKWIM. And it's not the build or tank b/c it performs as expected on the other mod. Not quite sure what to make of it.

EDIT Yes 316L 26g 2.5mm .24 freshly built coils and fresh wick. Tried 24g last night too in an effort to try to beef up the vapor but it was worse.

 

[Wingsfan0310]

Agreed ... that's why I spent the last few days rebuilding coils, changing wire, re-wicking, adding distilled water then a little PG to the juice.... never occurred to me it could be the VT133. It's working, it just isn't working quite right. Vapor should be denser with more flavor. Odd!

What brand of 316L are you using? It almost sounds like the TCR may be too low and it's limiting out to quick

 

["11"]

What brand of 316L are you using? It almost sounds like the TCR may be too low and it's limiting out to quick

Master Of Clouds. And it does feel like what you are describing. If on a YiHi I would be adjusting the TCR about now, looking for DJLsubs recommendation. Is there an equivalent in Escribe?

 

[Wingsfan0310]

If you are using my ecig file. Try switching to the SS304 profile. It's TCR is a little bit higher (off the top of my head .00105 vs .00092). That should kick it up a notch - not limit to fast. I would start at 420F. I can walk you through how to adjust the TCR for each wire if you want.

 

[Angrygod50]

I use a TCR of 120 on the VT133 and SDNA 75 with SS316L 24 gauge 420F. works fine I find I need the higher TCR to get a nice vape

 

["11"]

If you are using my ecig file. Try switching to the SS304 profile. It's TCR is a little bit higher (off the top of my head .00104 vs .00092). That should kick it up a notch - not limit to fast. I would start at 420F. I can walk you through how to adjust the TCR for each wire if you want.

Yer da man. I will load your 304 profile and give it a shot, then report back.

 

[Wingsfan0310]

OK, sounds like I should describe how you can adjust a TCR for a given wire:

Go to the material tab. Click on the NiFe (This was something I posted for someone dealing with NiFe - for you click on SS316L) in the Material on device box. Then click on actions under the curve. Then click on Temperature Coefficient of Resistance. Put in the number you want in the box, click on OK and then Upload Settings to Device at the top of Escribe.

It sounds harder than it is.

 

[Wingsfan0310]

Here's the normal TCR's for a given wire. The thing is SS is an alloy and if the formula is off a bit it can throw off the TCR. For AngryGod50 example of using 120 - that would be .00120 in the box I mentioned above. Let me know how it goes and if you need any further clarification on how to adjust the TCR.

 

[f1r3b1rd]

Yer da man. I will load your 304 profile and give it a shot, then report back.

if the 304 curve does not solve the problem, try setting the tcr manually to 0.00110

 

["11"]

WooHoo!! You done it brother!!! NOW we have a vape goin'!! Now it's very comparable to the IPV4S experience I'm used to. ... been chaining it a bit and it seems to be consistently good now...also just in my gut it felt like you totally nailed the problem! YUP!!! (pulling more hits...) Was near perfect at 420 but at 430 it's da bomb.


Who's da man??! Steve's da man!!! Many thanks!!

 

["11"]

if the 304 curve does not solve the problem, try setting the tcr manually to 0.00110

So far so good but I am happy to know Escribe has manual TCR adjustments. I wonder if this means the 316L from Master of Clouds is really 304 packaged as 316L? Do you guys get your SS from Unkamen?

 

[f1r3b1rd]

So far so good but I am happy to know Escribe has manual TCR adjustments. I wonder if this means the 316L from Master of Clouds is really 304 packaged as 316L? Do you guys get your SS from Unkamen?

I get all my ss316 from here...
I get fused Clapton, Clapton, vertebraid and regular round from them ....
https://www.advancedvapesupply.com/

 

[Wingsfan0310]

As soon as I read you say hardly any vapor, limiting out to quick sirens went off in my head. I've been sort of scrambling today (last few days) and haven't been reading all the posts carefully. If I had been I could have suggested this awhile back. My bad. Glad you have it working more to your liking now.

Cheers,
Steve

 

[Wingsfan0310]

So far so good but I am happy to know Escribe has manual TCR adjustments. I wonder if this means the 316L from Master of Clouds is really 304 packaged as 316L? Do you guys get your SS from Unkamen?

It could mean that or the IPV that you have been using has a higher TCR for it's 316l and that's what you are use to. No way for me to know for sure. The main thing is you now know how to manually adjust the TCR and it's working better.

Limiting out to quick = TCR is to low- you need to raise it.

 

["11"]

As soon as I read you say hardly any vapor, limiting out to quick sirens went off in my head. I've been sort of scrambling today (last few days) and haven't been reading all the posts carefully. If I had been I could have suggested this awhile back. My bad. Glad you have it working more to your liking now.

Cheers,
Steve

Never "your bad", my friend! I don't even think I brought this up until this morning. I was trying to address it myself thinking it was the build-or-juice related. And it's not just 'more to my liking'... it surpasses the IPV4S now. And that was hard to beat as I got a great vape from that in power mode, but don't want to vape VG in PM! Want my TC to err on the side of caution. I couldn't be happier. It's like I got a whole new mod.

 

["11"]

Limiting out to quick = TCR is to low- you need to raise it.

Yes, b/c before no matter how much I bumped the F or watts, it never produced more vapor. Just got warmer. Reminded me of the reeeeally old days with cigalikes and how when the battery weakened the vapor dropped off and no matter how much you inhaled it wasn't a satisfying experience like those first few pulls. Live and learn! I hope all this helps some future reader who might wander through here with the same issue.